UC-NRLF 


B    3    bEM    1D3 


oisitfsii^g^ 


r.  M  K  T 

ERSITY    OF 
LtfORNlA 


^ 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


HINDS' 


BLACK  FLY  CR 


A 


FOR    REPELLING 


BLACK-FLIES,  MOSQUITOES,  MIDGES, 

AND  OTHER  INSECTS, 

AND  PROTECTING  THE  SKIN  FROM 

SUNBURN,  IRRITATION,  AND 

INFECTION. 

NO   ANIMAL   FATS. 
NO  TAR.  NO   STAIN. 


Glens  Falls,  N.  Y.,  June  15,  18S4. 
Mk.  a.  S.  Hinds. 

Dear  Sir, —  I  have  not  sooner  acknowledged  the  receipt  of  box  of  "  Black- 
Fly  Cream"  as  I  desired  to  first  test  it;  this  I  have  now  done  on  two  fishing- 
trips  where  I  found  the  Mosquitoes,  Black-Flies,  Punkies,  and  Moose,  or  Deer 
Flies,  in  great  abundance;  although  all  these  pests  swarmed  about  me,  I  found 
the  Cream  a  perfect  preveyitive  ■i.^M.nst\.\\&\rV\X&?,,  when  it  was  applied  to  face, 
hands,  ears,  and  neck.  For  many  years  I  have  sought  after  the  insect  repellent, 
and  have  tried  all  manner  of  compounds,  but  yours  is  the  most  thorough,  at  \.he 
same  time  cleanlv,  and  not  disagreeable.  Yours  truly, 

A.  NELSON  CHENEY. 


^OLD  BY  DEALERS  IN  SPORTING  GOODS. 

JPostpaid,  28  cents. 


Price,  25  cents  per  hooc, 

PREPARED    BY 

A.  S.  HINDS       -       ■ 


Portland,   Me. 


FRANCIS    NEWBURY    ^   SONS. 
I   King  Edward  St.,  Newgate  St.,  London,  E.  C, 
Sole  General  Agents  for  England  and  Scotland. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


PORTLAND 
STAR    MATCHES 


WARRANTED   THE 


Safest^  Surest^  and  Best 

FOR  HOME  USE  OR  EXPORT. 
EXCEL  ALL  OTHERS  FOR  OUTDOOR  USE. 

Manufactured  only  by 

PORTLAND  STAR  MATCH  CO., 

West  Commercial  Street, 
PORTLAND,  ME. 

CHARLES  GRAUMANN, 

Manufacturer  of 

FINE  CIGARS 

Special  Brands  : 

La  Norma,       Opera  Havana, 
ElDesignio. 


SE/\/D   FOR  PRICE   LIST. 


11  Boylston  Street, 

JAMAICA   PLAIN       -       -       -       MASS. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


FINE  SPLIT  BAMBOO 

FLY,  BAIT  ^*°  TBOLLHl 

TACKLE  for  Salmon  Fishing. 
TACKLE  for  Trout  Fishing. 

TACKLE  for  Bass  Fishing. 

TACKLE  for  Salt  Water  Fishing, 
TACKLE  of  every   description 
for  all  kinds  of  Fishing. 

Outfits  for  Moosehead    Lake,   the    Rangeleys,    Tim    and 

Seven  Ponds,  and  for   Trout    Fishing  in   all  Maine 

and  Adirondack  waters,  graded  at  all  prices, 

and    in    endless    assortment. 

Rods,  Rod  Cases, 

Reels,  Reel  Cases, 

Lines,  Trout  Baskets, 

Leaders,       Camp  Hatchets, 
Flies.  Fly  Books. 

Our  new  Catalogue  for  1890,  containing  Game  Laws 
of  all  the  States  and  Territories,  also  British  Provinces, 
sent  on  application  free. 


DAME,  STODDARD  &  KENDALL, 

374  Washington  Street, 

(Opp.  Bromfield  St.) 

BOSTON,  MASS. 


RANfiElEYlAKESfioil 

AND  THE  HEADWATERS   Of   THE 

I'oiiiiiH'liciil.M.iSillowiftiAiidrnscojjjIiii, 
Siiiiilvaiul  l)(';i(l  Hivors. 


jl   COUNTY  AND   WOOD    ROACJS. 
Hotels,  Camps  and  Post  Offices. 
l)i:i\\iic\]tifsslv(nrriin-af\AiiilroscoS$iiif.;!lit',s 
inij-inied' By  CaplCKjsAJf«RR«R  Revised  1888 


TO 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES, 

AND   THE   HEAD-WATERS  OF  THE 

CONNECTICUT,  iVIAGALLOWAY,  AND  ANDROSCOGGIN 

RIVERS, 

DIXVILLE  KOTCH,  GRAFTON  NOTCH,  AND  ANDOVER, 

MAINE,   AND  VICINITY. 


"WITH 


A  New  and  Correct  Map  of  the  Lake  Region, 

Drawn  and  rrinted  Expressly  for  tliis  Book. 


ALSO,   CONTAINS 

A  VALUABLE  TREATISE  OX   "CAiJPIKG  OUT,"  AND  THE  GAME 
AKD  FISH  LAWS  OF  MAINE   AND  m\N  HAMPSHIRE 

(As  Revised  by  the  last  Legislature), 

RAILROAD,  STEAMBOAT,  AND  STAGE   ROUTES, 

Time-Tables,  Table  of  Fares,  TAst  of  Hotels,  Prices  of  Board, 
aud  otlier  valuable  Information  for  tlie  Sports- 
man,  Tourist,   or   l*leasure-Seeker. 


By  CAPT.  CHARLES  A.  J.  FAEEAR, 

&.uthor  of  "Moosehead  Lake  and  the  North  Maine  Wilderness,"  Illustrated;   "Eastward 
llol  or  Adventures  at  Kangeley  Lakes,"  "Camp  Life  in  the  Wilderness,"  etc. 


BOSTON : 

LEE  ^]^^r)  siie:pard. 

New    York:     Charles     T.     Dillingham. 

1890. 


FARRAR^S 


/I 


(lt^ 


TO 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES, 

AND   THE   HEAD-WATERS  OF  THE 

CONNECTICUT,  MAGALLOWAY,  AND  ANDROSCOGGIN 

RIVERS, 

DIXVILLE  NOTCH,  GRAFTON  NOTCH,  AND  ANDOVER, 

MAINE,   AND   VICINITY. 


■WITH 


A  New  and  Correct  Map  of  the  Lake  Region, 

Drawn  and  Printed  Expressly  for  this  Book. 


ALSO,  CONTAINS 

A  VALUABLE   TREATISE  ON   "CAMPING  OUT,"  AND  THE  GAME 
AND  FISH  LAWS  OF  MAINE  AND  NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

(As  Revised  by  the  last  LtgislaturM), 

RAILROAD,  STEAMBOAT,  AND  STAGE  ROUTES, 

Time-Tables,  Table  of  Fares,  IList  of  Hotels,  Prices  of  Board, 
and  otber  valuable  Informatioii  for  tbe  Sports- 
man,  Tourist,   or   I'leasure-Seeker. 


By  CAPT.  CHAELES  A.  J.  FAERAE, 

duthor  of  "Moosehead  Lake  and  the  Xortli  Maine  Wilderness,"  Plustrated;    "Eastvrard 
llol  or  Adventures  at  llaiigeley  Lakes,"  "Camp  Life  in  the  Wilderness,"  etc. 


BOSTON : 

LEE    ^ND    SHEF^RD. 

New    York:     Charles    T.     Dillingham. 

1890. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  tlie  year  18S7, 

By   CHARLES   A.  J.    FARRAR, 
In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


The  Illustrations  in  this  book  were  drawn  expressly  for  it, 
by  Nat.  Browx,  C.  W.  Reed,  M.  M.  Tidd,  F.  Myrick, 
E.  H.  Garrett,  F.  C.  Hassam,  and  others,  from  Photographs 
and  Sketches  made  at  the  places  represented,  under  the  super- 
vision of  Capt.  Farrar,  and  were  engraved  by  Nat.  Brown, 
Geo.  E.Johnson,  W.  H.  Bricher,  and  other  first-class  artists. 


Electrotyped  by  IT.  C.  Whitcomb  S  Co.,  Boston. 


M839021 


PREFACE  TO  THE  TWELFTH  EDITION. 


O  muijy  changes  are  constantly  occurfiDg  in  the 
Androscoggin  Lakes  Region,  that,  in  spite  of  the 
heavy  expense  entailed,  the  author  is  compelled  to 
get  out  a  new  edition  of  this  work  every  j-ear 
Special  attention  has  been  paid  to  making  the 
Guide  complete  and  correct,  the  latest  news  from  the  lake  re- 
gion having  been  procured  up  to  the  time  of  going  to  press ; 
and  it  is  the  author's  opinion  that  those  wishing  to  visit  this 
region  will  find,  from  a  careful  reading  of  its  pages,  all  the 
information  that  is  necessary  to  make  their  journey  a  peas- 
ant one. 

During  the  nineteenth  centur}''  book-making  has  become  an 
art ;  and  in  typography,  paper,  and  illustrations,  this  volume 
will  compare  favorably  with  those  of  more  pretentions ;  while, 
as  a  Guide-Book,  for  the  last  three  j^ears,  it  has  been  called 
the  finest  in  the  country.  A  new  cover,  of  characteristic  and 
original  design,  takes  the  place  of  the  old  one.  Several  new 
engravings  have  been  added ;  also  thirty-two  pages  of  read- 
ing-matter ;  while  the  paper  on  Mhich  the  book  has  been  prin- 
ted has  been  manufactured  expressly  for  it.  Several  additions 
have  been  made  to  the  ma^D,  and  a  few  trifling  errors  correc- 
ted; while  the  price  of  the  book  remains  the  same.  It  is  the 
only  standard  work  on  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Region,  and 
is  recognized  as  an  authority  on  all  matters  appertaining  to 
that  locality,  by  Forest  and  Stream^  the  American  Angler,  and 
other  first-class  sporting  publications. 

The  author  would  call  careful  attention  to  the  changes  in  the 
Dixville  Notch  Route ;  arrangements  having  been  perfected 
for  a  regular  daily  line  through  this  wonderful  region  of  pic- 

turesoue  beauty,  introducing  the  tourist  to  the  finest  mount- 

9 


10  PREFACE  TO    TWP:LFTH   EDITION. 

ain  scenry  in  New  England.  A  daily  stage-line  has  also  been 
established  from  Bethel  direct  to  the  new  Lakeside  Hotel,  in 
Cambridge,  N.  IL,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Umbagog. 

The  travel  to  Maine  still  rapidly  increases,  and  her  numer- 
ous summer  resorts  will  acommodate  ten  times  the  people  that 
have  yet  appeared  at  them.  Among  them  all  the  Androscog- 
gin Lakes  Region  stands  preeminent  for  health  and  attractive- 
ness, and  the  facilities  for  reaching  this  charming  location 
are  yearly  increased,  while  the  cost  of  tickets  is  reduced  with 
each  season.  The  placing  of  a  daily  line  of  steamers  on  Lake 
Umbagog  and  the  Magalloway  River  was  a  long-needed  im- 
provement, and  has  been  appreciated  by  the  travelling  public, 
who  are  indebted  for  this  service  to  the  author  of  this  book, 
and  also  for  the  large  reductions  in  fares  that  have  taken  place 
the  last  three  years. 

Still  another  improvement  has  been  made  in  the  travelling 
facilities  in  the  Lake  Region.  The  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Transportation  Company,  the  pioneers  of  business  enterprise 
in  the  Lake  Region  have  established  a  new  Steamboat  Line  on 
the  Upper  Magalloway  River,  making  it  now  a  very  easy  mat- 
ter to  reach  Parmachenee  Lake  via  the  Bethel  route,  and  full 
particulars  of  this  line  will  be  found  elsewhere  in  the  book. 

The  different  railroads  will  offer  a  larger  variety  of  round- 
trip  tickets  to  this  region  this  summer  than  ever  before,  and 
they  will  be  on  sale  at  all  general  ticket-offices  throughout 
the  country. 

Our  readers  should  be  careful  and  not  overlook  the  adver- 
tisements, as  they  each  contain  something  of  interest  that  will 
not  be  found  elsewhere  in  the  book. 

RocKriEw,  Jamaica  Plain,  May  1,  1890. 


CONTENTS. 


-<KD>OiC 


ClIAFTEH  PAGE 

I. — The  Androscoggin  Lakes 15 

II. — Hints  on  Camping  Out 23 

III. — Routes  from  Boston  to  the  Androscoggin  Lake  Region.    The 

Bethel  and  Cambridge  Route 45 

IV. — From  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  to  the  Middle  Dam  .        .     69 
V. — The  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover  Route.    From  Boston  to 

Andover,  Me 83 

VI.— From  Andover  to  the  South  Arm 91 

VII. — From  the  South  Arm  to  the  Upper  Dam 105 

VIII. — The  Upper  Dam  and  the  Richardson  Ponds     .       .       .       .121 
IX. — Catches  of  Trout  and  Land-locked  Salmon       ....    139 
X. — From  the  Upper  Dam  to  Bemis'  Stream,  Haines'  Landing, 

Cupsuptic  Lake  and  Indian  Rock 153 

XI.— From  Indian  Rock  to  Oquossoc  Outlet,  Rangeley  Village, 

Greenvale,  and  the  head  of  Oquossoc  Lake         .       .       .     167 
XII.— Rangeley  Village,  Kennebago  Lake,  and  the  Seven  Ponds  .     177 
XIII.— The   Phillips   and   Farmington   Route.    From  Boston   to 

Greenvale,  Oquossoc  Lake,  and  Rangeley  Village     .       .     185 
XIV.— From  New  York  and  Boston  to  Dixville  Notch,  and  the 

Androscoggin  Lakes,  via  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad    .     199 
XV. — From  the  Glen  House,  and  Fabyan's,  White  Mountains,  to 
the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Region,  via  Bethel,  Me.,  and 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.  H. 215 

XVI. — From  Boston  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  via  North  Strat- 
ford, Colebrook,  Dixville  Notch,  and  Errol  Dam       .       .     221 
XVII. — The  lower  Magalloway  and  the  Diamond  Rivers,  Parma- 
chenee  Lake,  and  the  Upper  Magalloway.    Routes  from 
Boston,  Expense,  Scenery,  Fishing,  Hunting,  etc.    .       .     237 

XVIII. — Andover,  Maine,  as  a  Simamer  Resort 269 

11 


12  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

XIX.— Drives  around  Andover.    To  Roxbury  Pond,  Black  Brook 

Kotch,  White  Cap  Mountain,  and  Farmer's  Hill       .        .  275 
XX.— Waterfalls   and   Cascades.     The   Cataracts,    Upper   and 

Lower  Falls,  Cascade,  Basin,  and  Flume    .        .        .        .279 
XXI.— Bald  Pate  Mountain.    The  Ascent  and  View  from  its  Sum- 
mit           285 

XXII.— Excursions  to  Dunn's  Notch,  and  East  B  Hill       ,        .        .291 
XXIII.— Excursions  to  Lake  Umbagog,    Magalloway   Eiver,  and 

Dixville  Notch            295 

XXIV.— Trout-Fishing 301 

XXV.— Game  Laws  of  Maine 309 

XXVI.— Game-Fish  Laws  of  Maine 313 

XXVII.— Rates  of  Fares  and  Round  Trip  Excursion  Tickets     .       .  323 

XXVIII.-Game  and  Fish  Laws  of  N.  H 335 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTHATIONS. 


-o- 


PAGE 

Frontispiece 2 

Duck-Shooting  at  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook    ....      8 

"Camping  Out"  at  Mouth  of  River,  Upper  Dam 20 

Frame  of  Camp 26 

Roof  and  End 27 

Camp  Complete 28 

Camp  Furniture 29 

Camp  Cookery  30 

The  "Old  Union"  of  Lake  Umbagog :  first  steamer  ever  run  on  the 

Androscoggin  Lakes 37 

A  Private  Party  en  route  to  Lakeside,  N.  H 40 

View  on  Androscoggin  River,  between  Bethel  and  Newry  Corner       .    44 

Screw  Auger  Falls,  Bear  River 46 

The  Jail,  Grafton  Notch 50 

Lake  Umbagog  from  B  Hill  55 

Umbagog  Lake  from  Steamboat  Landing,  Cambridge,  N.  H.         ,       .    61 

Lakeside  Hotel,  Cambridge,  N.  H 66 

Middle  Dam  Camp,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  [1876]         .       .       .       .71 
New  Middle  Dam  Camp,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  [1878]        .       .       .76 

Crossing  the  Androscoggin  River  at  Rumford 86 

Village  of  Andover,  Me.,  with  Old  Bald  Pate  Mountain         .       .       .92 

Devil's  Den,  Black  Brook,  Lake  Road,  Andover,  Me 94 

Wooland  Glimpses  98 

Natural  Arch,  Lake  Road,  C  Township,  Me 100 

Steamer  Welokennebacook  and  Buckbord  at  South  Arm       .       .       .102 

Lakeview  Cottage  at  South  Arm  104 

Wooding  up  on  Lake  Welokennebacook 107 

Lake  Welokennebacook  and  Speckled  Mountain 110 

Lake  Molechunkaraunk  from  Metallak  Point 112 

Camp  Whitney  and  View  looking  North 116 

The  Upper  Dam 120 

Rapids  below  Upper  Dam  and  Aziscohos  Mountain        ....  122 

Birch  Lodge  and  View  looking  South 125 

Log  Camp  and  Boat  House,  Richardson  Pond 129 

Camp  Bellevue,  Lake  Molechunkamunk  [1876] 133 

Aziscohos  and  Observatory  Mountains  from  Camp  Bellevue         .       .  138 

13 


14  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Camp  Bellevue,  Lake  Molcchunkamunk  [1882] 141 

Lake  Molcchunkamunk,  South-east  View,  from  Camp  Bellevue    .        .  145 

Androscoggin  Lakes'  Spotted  Brook  Trout 149 

Camp  Allerton,  Lake  Mooselucmaguntic 154 

Lake  Mooselucmaguntic  and  Bemis  Mountains  from  Bugle  Cove        .  158 

Indian  Rock  and  Eangeley  Stream 162 

Interior  of  Camp  Kennebago 166 

Camp  Henry,  Rangeley  Outlet 170 

Steamer  Molly  Chunkamunk  at  Oquossoc  Outlet 174 

View  of  Kennebago  Lake  from  Snowman's  Point 179 

State  Normal  School,  Farmington,  Maine  186 

Maine  Central  Railroad  Bridge,  Farmington,  Maine        .        .       .        .190 

View  of  Oquossoc  Lake  and  Ram  Island 195 

Middle  Dam  and  Rapid  River 198 

Mount  Monadnock,  and  Colebrook,  N.  H. 207 

Beaver  Falls,  Colebrook,  N.  H 211 

General  View  of  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H 214 

Old  man  of  the  Mountain,  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H 218 

Wild  River  Bridge,  Grand  Trunk  Railway 227 

Berlin  Falls,  Androscoggin  River,  N.  H 232 

Dix  House,  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H 235 

Steamer  Diamond  on  Androscoggin  River 240 

Moose  Shooting  on  the  Magalloway  River 244 

Foot  of  Kennebago  Lake 251 

Parmachenee  Lake,  looking  North 255 

Parraachenee  Lake,  looking  West 259 

Head  of  Moose  shot  at  Parmachenee  Lake 265 

The  Andover  House,  Andover,  Md 270 

Mt.  Sawyer  and  Sluice  Dam,  Black  Brook  Notch,  Andover,  Me.  .        .  274 

Upper  Fall  Cataract  Brook,  Andover,  Me 278 

Sylvan  Cascade,  Cataract  Brook,  Andover,  Me 281 

The  Flume,  Cataract  Brook,  Andover,  Me 284 

Silver  Ripple  Cascade,  Black  Brook,  Andover,  Me 290 

On  a  Buckboard 294 

The  Flume,  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H 298 

An  Obstacle 303 

Lead  Mine  Bridge,  Shelburne,  N.  H.  312 

Mounts  Washington  and  Madison  from  Lead  Mine  Bridge    .       .       .316 


CHAPTER  I. 


D\t  J[nttr0$t:0ggitt    Jinkm. 


HE  chain  of  lakes  known  as  the  An- 
DKOSCOGGix  Lakes  lie  near  the  western 
bonndary  of  Maine,  in  Franklin  and  Oxford  counties.  The 
lower  lake  of  the  chain,  Umbagog,  is  more  than  half  in  Coos 
County,  Xew  Hampshire.  The  lakes  are  known  severally  as 
Oquossoc,  Cupsuptic,  Mooselucmaguntic,  Molechunkamunk, 
Welokennebacook  and  ITmbagog.  These  six  lakes  are  all 
connected  by  narrows  or  streams,  forming  one  continuous 
water  connnunication  for  about  fifty  miles. 

The  country  about  the  northern,  southern,  and  eastern 
shores  of  Oquossoc,  and  the  southern  shore  of  Umbagog,  also 
a  small  strip  of  land  along  the  valley  of  the  Magalloway 
River,  is  partially  cleared  up,  and  some  very  good  farms  have 
been  started ;  all  the  rest  of  the  country  in  the  lake  reorion  is 
an  unbroken  wilderness,  known  only  by  the  hunter  or  lum- 
berman.    Game  and  fish  in  abundance  are  found  through  all 

the  district,  and   the   number  of  adventurers  who  penetrate 

15 


16  FARRAK'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


these  rugged  wilds  in  summer  is  every  year  on  the  increase. 
The  mountains  are  well-covered  with  a  growth  of  trees — 
birch,  beech,  maple,  ash,  hemlock,  spruce,  fir,  cedar  and 
pine,  on  the  higher  lands;  and  along  the  courses  of  the 
streams,  almost  impenetrable  thickets  of  spruce,  hemlock  and 
cedar.  The  spruce  afibrds  the  most  valuable  timber,  which 
is  run  down  the  various  streams  in  the  time  of  the  spring 
freshets,  and  thence  across  the  lakes.  Sapling-pine  is  quite 
common,  but  there  is  very  little  of  the  old  growth,  or,  "pump- 
kin-pine," as  the  natives  call  it,  left. 

Two  other  lakes  mentioned  in  this  book,  while  lying  at  a 
distance  fi'om  the  main  body,  are  connected  with  them  by  the 
rivers  that  form  their  outlets.  Kennebago  Lake  lies  about 
eleven  miles  north  of  Oquossoc,  as  the  road  runs,  and  is  con- 
nected with  the  chain  by  the  Kennebago  lliver,  which  serves 
as  an  outlet  for  its  waters.  It  empties  into  Rangeley  Stream 
at  Indian  Rock. 

Kennebago  is  one  of  the  prettiest  lakes  in  the  State  of 
Maine,  and  although  it  has  a  dam  at  the  foot  of  it,  it  is  not 
high  enough  to  flow  the  shores  much,  and  the  natural  beauty 
of  the  lake  has  not  been  materially  injured.  It  runs  east  and 
west,  and  is  almost  completely  surrounded  with  high  moun- 
tains. Its  shores  are  thickly  wooded,  and  there  are  several 
nice  sand  beaches  about  it.  Standing  on  the  point  at  the  head 
of  the  lake,  the  site  of  Snowman's  old  camp,  you  obtain  a  fine 
view,  embracing  nearly  the  entire  sheet  of  water.  On  your 
left  is  Spotted  Mountain,  which  descends  to  the  water,  and 
extends  along  the  lake  for  several  miles.  On  the  right,  a  little 
ridge,  known  as  Wild  Cftt  Hill,  serves  to  confine  the  water 
on  that  side.  Beyond  this  is  East  Kennebago  Mountain. 
West  Kennebago  and  Snow  Mountains  are  also  plainly  to 
be  seen  from  this  point.  Some  of  the  most  beautiful  sunsets 
we  have  ever  witnessed  we  saw  at  Kennebago  Lake,  and  the 
view  of  lake  and  mountain  from  Snowman's  Point  during  the 
sun's  decline  is  superb.  We  do  not  try  to  describe  it,  for  it 
w^ould  be  simply  an  impossibility.  Kennebago  is  five  or  six 
miles  long,  and  from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half 
wide.    A  small  steamer  plies  upon  it  during  the  sporting 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIO^S.  17 


season  for  the  benefit  of  tourists  and  fishermen.  Three  miles 
above  the  lake  is  a  ijoncl,  known  as  Little  Kennebago,  where 
there  is  good  fishing.  A  light-draught  boat  can  be  run  up 
the  stream  between  the  lake  and  the  pond  without  much 
difficulty.  The  Seven  Ponds,  a  great  place  for  trout-fishing, 
are  twelve  miles  north  of  Kennebago  Lake,  and  may  be 
reached  easily  by  following  up  the  stream  from  Little  Kenne- 
bago. Most  people  who  go  to  Kennebago  Lake  do  not  leave 
until  they  have  visited  the  falls  on  the  Kennebago  River. 
These  are  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  outlet.  The 
mile  can  be  done  in  a  boat ;  then  you  land  at  the  head  of  the 
rapids,  and  after  walking  half  a  mile  through  the  w^oods,  you 
will  reach  the  falls,  which  are  more  a  series  of  heavy  rapids 
than  a  regular  fall,  but  they  are  well  worth  a  visit. 

Parmachenee  Lake  lies  about  fifty  miles  north  of  Umba- 
gog,  in  a  vast  wilderness  that  extends  for  miles  beyond  the 
boundary  between  New  England  and  Canada.  It  is  connected 
with  the  latter  lake  by  the  Magalloway  River,  w^hich  serves 
as  its  outlet,  and  empties  into  the  Androscoggin  River  two 
miles  below  Umbagog  Lake.  It  is  not  so  large  as  the  most 
of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  but  it  is  a  gem  among  them,  and 
has  a  peculiar  beauty  of  its  own.  It  is  fast  coming  into  notice 
with  sportsmen  and  fishermen ;  its  waters  are  filled  with  brook 
trout,  and  the  forest  about  it  abounds  with  every  variety  of 
game,  from  the  lively  little  squirrel  to  the  lordly  moose.  The 
scenery  in  the  locality  is  enchanting,  and,  being  so  far  beyond 
the  bound  of  civilization,  there  is  a  charm  and  romance  in 
visiting  this  lake  that  you  will  not  meet  with  about  the  others. 

As  part  of  Umbagog  Lake,  and  some  of  the  trout  streams  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Lakeside  Hotel,  lie  in  New  Hampshire,  we 
give  in  the  back  part  of  the  Guide  the  game  and  fish  laws 
of  both  Maine  and  New  Hampshire,  knowing  they  will  be  of 
interest  to  persons  visiting  these  waters. 

Dixville  Notch,  the  wildest  mountain  pass  in  New  Eng- 
land, is  in  the  western  part  of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Region.  It  has  not  such  high  walls  as  the  Crawford  Notch, 
but  it  is  so  much  narrower,  and  its  peaks  are  so  Alpine  in 
character,  that  its  general  appearance  is  far  more  striking 


18  FAHRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

and  interesting.  As  a  show  piece  it  is  ahead  of  either  the 
Crawford  or  Frauconia  Notches,  but  has  not  attained  the 
celebrity  of  its  White  Mountain  rivals,  simply  from  being 
less  known.  But  the  number  of  visitors  to  this  wonderful 
scene  of  nature  increases  with  each  year,  and  the  time  is  not 
far  distant  when  AYhite  Mountain  tourists  will  think  their 
trip  incomplete  without  having  seen  the  weird  and  romantic 
scenery  that  charms  and  fascinates  the  beholder  at  Dixville 
Notch. 

As  a  great  many  people  seem  to  have  an  idea  that  it  re- 
quires no  effort  to  catch  ten-pound  trout,  or  to  shoot  deer  or 
moose,  we  assure  them  that  patience  and  experience  are  both 
necessary  requisites  to  success  in  hunting  or  fishing. 

Theodore  Winthrop,  in  some  of  his  writings,  has  most 
happily  taken  off  the  green  sportsman  in  the  Adirondack 
Region,  and  as  what  he  has  so  truthfully  portrayed  is  equally 
applicable  to  the  Lake  Region  of  Maine,  we  give  it  here.  He 
says : — 

"There  in  the  forest  you  see  the  stag  of  ten  trots  coquetting 
with  greenliorns.  He  likes  the  excitement  of  being  shot  at 
and  missed.  He  enjoys  the  smell  of  iDOwder  in  a  battle  where 
he  is  always  safe.  He  hears  greenhorn  blundering  through 
the  woods,  stopping  to  growl  at  briars,  stopping  to  revive  his 
courage  with  the  Dutch  supplement.  The  stag  of  ten  trots 
awaits  his  foe  in  a  glade.  The  foe  arrives,  sees  the  antlered 
monarch  and  is  panic-struck.  He  watches  him  prance  and 
strike  the  ground  with  his  hoofs.  He  slowly  recovers  heart, 
takes  a  pull  at  his  flask,  rests  his  gun  upon  a  log  and  begins 
to  study  his  mark.  The  stag  will  not  stand  still.  Greenhorn 
is  baffled.  At  last  his  target  turns  and  carefully  exposes  that 
region  of  his  body  where  greenhorn  has  read  lies  the  heart. 
Just  about  to  fire,  he  catches  the  eye  of  the  stag  winking 
futility  into  his  elaborate  aim.  His  blunderbus  jerks  upward. 
A  shower  of  cut  leaves  floats  through  the  smoke  from  a  tree 
thirty  feet  overhead.  Then,  with  a  wild-eyed,  melancholy 
look  of  reproachful  contempt,  the  stag  turns  away,  and  wan- 
ders ofi"  to  sleep  in  quiet  coverts  far  within  the  wood.  He 
has  fled,  while  for  greenhorn  no  trophy  remains.     Antlers 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  19 


have  nodded  to  the  sportsman ;  a  short  tail  has  disappeared 
before  his  eyes ; — he  has  seen  something,  but  has  nothing  to 
show.  ^Vhereupon  he  buys  a  couple  of  pairs  of  ancient, 
weather-bleached  horns  from  some  colonist,  and,  nailing  them 
up  at  impossible  angles  on  the  wall  of  his  city  den,  humbugs 
brother-cockneys  with  tales  of  hunting,  and  has  for  life  his 
special  legend,  "How  I  shot  my  first  deer  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks,"  or  at  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  as  the  case  may  be. 

Nowhere  in  this  country  will  the  people  who  have  caught 
the  camping-out"  fever,  find  a  more  convenient  or  more 
pleasant  place  to  gratify  it  than  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Eegion.  Here  four  of  the  indispensible  requisites  of  life  in 
the  woods,  viz.,  good,  clear  w^ater,  plenty  of  firewood,  game, 
and  fish,  are  always  to  be  found,  and  the  cosey  little  nooks 
and  charming  spots  on  the  shores  of  the  lakes,  or  banks  of 
the  streams,  each  and  all  commanding  some  picturesque 
view,  where  one  can  pitch  a  tent,  are  simply  innumerable. 

H  one  could  always  be  sure  of  pleasant  weather,  tent  life 
would  be  relieved  of  its  greatest  drawback.  But  we  cannot 
control  the  elements,  whatever  else  we  may  bring  under  sub- 
jection, and  *' camping-out"  in  a  two  or  three  days'  storm 
takes  the  good-nature  out  of  the  most  pleasant  and  philosoph- 
ic individual.  It  is  far  w^orse  where  there  are  ladies  in  the 
party  than  if  it  is  composed  entirely  of  gentlemen;  for, 
although  the  sterner  sex  can  push  about  in  the  wet  under- 
brush, and  go  fishing  in  the  rain,  the  ladies  are  comi)elled  to 
sit  in  a  damp  teni,  and  wishing  for  nothing  so  much  in  the 
world,  as  to  see  the  sun  shine  once  more. 

The  writer  has  tried  "camping-out"  for  several  seasons ;  and 
while  he  does  not  deny  that  there  is  a  great  deal  of  fun  and 
enjoyment  in  it  still  he  holds  to  the  opinion  that  it  is  better 
and  cheaper  to  stop  at  the  camps  about  the  lakes,  and  j)ay 
$2.00  to  .$2.50  per  day  for  board,  and  be  sure  of  a  comfort- 
able bed  at  night,  and  a  roof  over  your  head  in  a  storm.  The 
accommodations  at  one  of  these  camps  in  the  wilderness  are 
so  different  from  what  you  meet  with  at  home,  that  it  has  a 
novelty  almost  equal  to  tent  life,  with  none  of  its  disagree- 
able features.    However  inspired  people  may  be  with  life  in 


p 


Oh 

a. 

> 


O 


O 

< 


O 

O 

I—*' 

< 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  21 

the  Avoods,  they  soon  get  tired  of  washing  dishes,  cooking 
meals,  cutting  wood,  kigging  water,  and  the  various  routine 
of  duty  that  is  inseparable  from  living  in  a  tent.  But  if  you 
must  "camp-out,"'  take  along  one  or  two  guides  to  do  the 
work  and  the  cooking,  and  then  you  are  free  from  care,  and 
may  hope  for  an  enjoyable  time  if  you  have  pleasant  weather. 
On  the  preceding  page  we  present  an  illustration  of  a  party 
camping  out  on  the  shore  of  Molechunkamunk  Lake,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  Our  artist  has  been  successful  in 
making  a  sj)irited  sketch  of  the  scene.  As  the  business  of 
"camping-out"  is  new  to  many  who  visit  the  Lake  Eegion, 
we  give  in  the  following  chapter  some  j)ractical  hints  that 
are  sure  to  be  of  service  to  the  green  woodsman. 

Black  flies,  midges,  and  mosquitoes,  are  to  be  met  with  in 
the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Eegion  the  latter  part  of  June  and 
the  first  part  of  July.  By  taking  with  you  a  prei3aration  of 
sweet-oil  and  tar,  and  annointing  your  face  and  hands,  you 
Mill  generally  escape  their  importunities.  The  only  time 
that  they  are  really  troublesome  is  on  a  very  still  day  or 
night.  A\Tien  there  is  anv  wind  at  all  thev  will  not  trouble 
you.  Persons  camping  out  generally  build  up  a  "smudge" 
at  night,  Avhich  frees  them  from  the  attacks  of  these  insects. 
Ladies  visiting  the  lakes  in  "fly-time,"  will  do  well  to  take  a 
thick  veil  and  long  kid  gauntlets,  in  addition  to  their  other 
clothing.  There  is  only  about  a  month,  from  the  middle  of 
June  to  the  middle  of  July,  that  flies  and  midges  are  trouble- 
some, and  any  i^erson  who  has  visited  the  lakes  once  can  very 
easily  keep  clear  of  them,  and  have  this  to  console  them,  that 
these  insects  in  Maine  are  not  near  as  plenty,  nor  half  so 
voracious,  as  they  are  in  the  Adirondack  Region,  neither  are 
they  any  more  troublesome  than  at  the  White  Mountains. 
As  ladies  may  not  think  that  tar  and  oil  would  improve 
their  complexion  (although  it  is  a  fact  that  it  makes  the  skin 
soft  and  white  after  its  use)  we  would  inform  them  that  oil  of 
pennyroyal  and  sweet-oil,  jDroperly  mixed,  is  fully  as  good 
as  the  other  preparation.  We  speak  from  practical  experi- 
ence, having  frequently  used  it.  Any  druggist  can  prepare 
it  for  you,  and  the  cost  is  a  mere  trifle. 


•)). 


F.\RRAR\S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


Close  observation  during  a  ten  summers'  sojourn  in  the 
Lake  Region  warrants  us  in  asserting  that  the  bhick  fly  and 
mldgo  i  re  i-(  t  near  so  thick  now  as  they  were  in  former  j^ears, 
and  many  tf  the  regular  habitues  of  the  lakes  declare  that 
l^hey  are  gradually  becoming  extinct.  House  flies  have  in- 
■\-"^  1  Lirgrly  about  the  lakes  in  the  past  five  years,  and  the 
\  V  the.ze   become   the  faster   the   black    flies    diminish. 

,.  o  ^^il )  pretend  to  know,  say  that  the  two  species  of  flies 
,\  :i  n  t  Lvo  t  gether.  But,  in  our  opinion,  the  small  clear- 
iig"«  made  s'.round  the  lake  shore  have  had  their  efiect  in 
tliminishlng  Ihe  number  of  flies. 

As  the  lakes  are  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  and  entirely  surrounded  by  mountains,  the  air  is  sharp 
and  bracing,  especially  in  June  and  September,  and  visitors 
should  always  take  an  extra  supply  of  clothing.  AVarm 
flannels  and  ex'ra  wnjps  are  a  real  necessity,  and  Avill  save 
one  a  great  deal  of  discomfort. 


CHAPTER  II. 


link  tn  dumping   Out 


AVING  made  up  your  mind  to 
cami)  out  during  your  vac'ati<  n, 
decide  next  where  ycu  will  g  ; 
and  then,  if  possible,  see  and 
talk  with  some  one  familiar  with 
the  f)laee,  and  note  down  all  you 
learn  that  is  important.  If  you 
can  procure  a  Guide  Book  and 
Maps  that  cover  the  locality 
selected,  do  so  by  all  means,  as 
you  will  find  that  they  will  be 
worth  many  times  their  cost  to  you. 

August,  September,  and  October  are  the  months  for  camp- 
ing- out ;  and,  if  you  wish  to  kill  large  game,  such  as  deer, 
caribou,  or  moose,  during  the  open  season,  which  in  Maine  is 
from  October  Lst  to  December  31st,  and  in  New  Hampshire 
from  September  1st.  to  November  30th,  you  must  make  your 
trip  between  the  above  dates. 

Begin  to  make  up  and  collect  your  outfit  as  long  before 
you  intend  to  start  as  possible.  Don't  leave  everything  until 
within  the  last  few  days,  and  then  go  with  about  half  the 
articles  you  ought  to  have  with  you.  You  will  find  nearly  as 
much  pleasure  in  the  anticipation  of  such  a  trip  as  in  the 
realization  of  it.  If  you  intend  to  spend  the  most  of  your 
time  in  the  wilderness,  away  from  hotels  and  villages,  you 
will  find  an  excellent  chance  to  utilize  all  your  old  clothing, 

only  have  the  garments  carefully  mended  and  patched.     One 

23 


24  FAERAH'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

good  suit  to  wear  between  your  home  and  the  woods  will  be 
sufficient. 

You  should  go  well  provided  with  underclothing  in  the 
shape  of  heavy  woollen  shirts,  drawers  and  stockings.  If 
your  flesh  is  tender,  and  flannels  are  apt  to  irritate  you,  buy 
very  thin  cotton  underclothing  to  wear  next  your  skin. 
Carry  a  wide-rim  woollen  and  straw  hat.  You  will  find  both 
convenient.  A  stout  woollen  jacket  or  coat  will  be  all  you 
need  for  an  outside  garment,  excepting  a  rubber  coat.  Be 
sure  and  get  your  rubber  coat  large  enough  to  slip  on  over 
your  other  garments  easily.  Don't  try  to  wear  hip  pants. 
Such  action  will  generally  necessitate  the  wearing  of  a  belt 
also.    Use  suspenders ;  they  are  every  way  preferable. 

Shoes  are  good  to  wear  around  camp,  but  for  tramping  I 
prefer  stout,  long-legged,  leather  boots.  Two  or  three  times 
a  boot  has  saved  me  from  a  sprained  ankle  when  falling  in 
the  woods.  You  should  purchase  heavy,  serviceable  shoes 
and  boots,  and  oil  them  well.  You  don't  want  drawing- 
room  trash.  A  pair  of  long-leg,  hip  water-proof  boots  are 
very  serviceable  when  fishing  and  wading  streams. 

Take  two  rubber  and  two  woollen  blankets  to  each  person 
if  your  party  does  not  number  over  four.  Above  that  num- 
ber you  can  discount  some  on  the  blankets  without  discom- 
fiture. Remember  that  toward  the  fall  the  nights  outdoors 
are  chilly,  and  you  had  better  have  a  few  more  blankets  than 
you  actually  need,  than  not  enough. 

Buy  your  provisions  (all  but  cofiee  and  tea,  which  you  can 
procure  of  better  quality  at  home)  at  the  last  town  through 
which  you  pass.  The  charges  will  undoubtedly  be  a  little 
higher  than  at  home ;  but  you  will  make  it  up  by  the  saving 
in  freight  and  express,  and  the  loss  of  care  in  looking  after 
so  many  things.  What  you  do  carry  from  home  pack  in 
bags  or  boxes,  with  straps  or  handles  fastened  securely  on 
the  ends,  as  the  railroads  will  generally  check  such  packages. 
If  the  baggage-master  raises  any  objections,  a  tip  of  a  quarter, 
or  a  few  cigars,  will  go  a  long  way  towards  making  him  ste 
the  matter  in  the  same  light  that  you  do. 

Mark  your  baggage  if  possible.    If  not,  tie  or  nail  a  tag  on 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  25 

each  piece  with  your  name  and  place  of  destination  plainly- 
written  upon  it.    Take  care  of  your  checks  after  you  get  them. 

Buy  round-trip  tickets  to  the  place  where  you  are  going, 
if  you  can;  if  not,  to  the  nearest  point.  You  may  get 
*'broke"  while  away,  and  you  will  feel  more  comfortable  to 
know  that  you  have  a  return  ticket  home.  Carefully  figure 
up  your  expenses  from  the  best  sources  of  information  at 
your  command,  and  then  take  at  least  fifty  per  cent,  more 
money  than  you  think  you  will  need.  Among  your  cash 
have  plenty  of  small  change  and  small  bills.  Attempting  to 
pay  for  small  articles  in  large  bills,  in  a  sparsely  settled 
country,  will  often  seriously  inconvenience  you.  Don't  carry 
"ragged  bills"  or  "mutilated  coin."  Most  country  people 
have  learned  by  this  time  that  such  stuff  is  not  current. 

If  you  are  going  to  camp  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  a 
farm,  an  empty  bed-tick,  that  you  can  easily  carry  with  you, 
and  get  filled  with  straw  or  hay  on  your  arrival,  is  an  excel- 
lent substitute  for  a  better  bed.  Never  make  your  bed  on 
the  bare  ground.  Procure  a  few  boards  to  lay  down  first  if 
possible ;  failing  in  this,  cedar,  fir,  or  spruce  poles,  with  the 
upper  side  flattened  with  an  axe,  and  laid  close  together,  will 
answer  admirably. 

Don't  be  too  anxious  to  pay  country  people  more  than  they 
ask  for  milk,  butter,  eggs,  etc ;  it  is  establishing  a  bad  pre- 
cedent, and  you  will  generally  find  that  their  charge  is  all  the 
things  are  worth  in  that  locality,  and  sometimes  more,  and 
after  you  leave  they  will  set  you  down  as  a  fool  with  more 
money  than  brains. 

If  you  intend  to  make  any  excursions  from  camp  that  will 
necessitate  your  being  away  over  night,  a  fair-sized  leather 
knapsack,  with  broad  straps  to  go  over  the  shoulders,  will  be 
a  very  convenient  article  to  have  with  you.  If  you  make  any 
such  excursions,  don't  load  yourself  down  too  heavily. 
Twenty  pounds  at  the  start  will  seem  to  be  fifty  after  you 
have  carried  it  three  hours.  You  go  into  the  woods  for  rest 
and  recreation,  not  to  make  a  pack-horse  of  yourself.  If 
there  are  several  in  your  party,  don't  have  any  senseless 
rivalry  as  to  who  can  carry  the  heaviest  pack.    You  will  find 


2G 


FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 


tliMt  any    load  you  start  with  will  be  heavy  enough  after 
tramping  all  day. 

iStick  to  the  lakes,  ponds  and  rivers  as  much  as  possible,  for 
it  is  a  great  deal  easier  to  get  around  in  a  boat  than  to  tramp 
tlinmgli  the  woods.  "WTien  in  a  boat  use  the  utmost  preeau- 
rioii,  especially  if  you  can't  swim.  If  you  can,  the  upsetting 
of  your  boat,  and  the  consequent  loss  or  spoiling  of  the 
greater  part  of  your  things,  is  a  serious  misfortune. 
I)(»irt  try  to  see  how  far  you  can  tip  the  boat  down  on  one 
side  without  capsizing  it. 

If  you  are  a  good  swimmer,  and  other  members  of  your 
p;ir\v  are  not,  don't  do  anything  when  j^ou  are  out  boating 
w.rli  them  to  cause  them  alarm.  It  spoils  their  pleasure, 
and  is  foolish  and  cowardly  on  your  part. 

\Mien  j'ou  leave  your  boat  be  careful  to  fasten  it  securely, 
»ir  take  it  so  far  out  of  water  as  will  remove  all  liability  of  its 
gcrtiiig  loose.  There  are  times  when  you  may  be  put  to  great 
inronvenieuce,  or  placed  in  positive  danger  by  your  boat 
going  adrift. 

Don't  try  to  run  dangerous  rapids  without  having  had  pre- 
vious experience  in  such  navigation.  It  is  more  than  prob- 
able that  you  will  meet  with  an    accident  if  you  make  the 

attempt.      In    as- 
Cv         V  scending  rapids,  it 

is  generally  easier 
to  pole  up,  than 
to  paddle  or  row. 
If  you  don't  carry 
a  regular  "setting 
pole,"  a  light 
spruce  pole,  peel- 
ed, eight  or  ten 
feet  long,  with 
one  end  sharpened 
to  a  point,  to  stick 
into  the  bottom  of 
the  river,  is  a  very 
good     substitute. 


^•^M^x. 


Fig.  1.    Frame  of  Camp. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


Poling  is  quite  a  knack;  but  5'ou  can  soon  :kmju  r 
practice.  Your  greatest  difficulty  will  bo  in  !>•■ 
bow  of  your  boat  straight  up  stream. 

In  the  Androscoggin   Lakes   Ileglon   it   i-j   11   ' 
necessary  for  you  to  take  a  guide.     If  j'ou  do,  li  w 
a  party  of  four  is  sufficient;  and  hire  the  hcit  y 
without  regard  to  price. 

Don't  carry  a  tent.    It  is  generally  a  useless  in 
All  through  the  wilderness  region  of  Maine  ;in  ! 
shire,  hotel  camps,  logging,  or  hunters"  cami)s  iiKi\ 
furnishing  you  shelter  and  lodging.    At  the  \u>\  !  . 
you  will  have  to  pay,  but  the   hunter's   and    1  ;•; 
are  mostly  empty  until  the  last  of  October,  and  ;  1 
any  one  who  chooses  to  use  them.     Failing  to  ur,! 
build  a  bough  camp  in  the  following  maimer : — 

Select  a  dry  piece  of  ground  on  some  little  hillock 
and  plan  the  size  of  your  camp  to  suit  your  party,  u 
ting   to  have   room   to  place   your  provisions   uuu 
Have  an  eve  to  water  and  wood,  and  don't  locate  farib  r  froni 
them  than  you  can  help. 

Now  cut  two  crotched  maples,  A  (see  Fig.  I),  about  eight 
feet  long,  sharpen  an  end  of  each,  and  drive  the  piclced  ends 
a  foot  or  more  into 


V'T. 


the  ground  ten  feet 
apart,  if  for  a  part}' 
of  four.  Then  cut 
another  maple,  B, 
about  three  inches 
in  diameter,  and 
lay  it  on  the  top  of 
your  crotched 
posts.  Now  pro-^ 
cure  eight  more 
maple  poles,  C  (any 
other  kind  of  wood  ^j, 
will  answer  if  there 
is  no  maple  in  the 
vicinity,  only  your 


Fig.  2.    Roof  and  End. 


28 


FA1UIAK\S  1LLU8THATED   GUIDE   TO 


poles  must  be  straight),  about  ten  feet  long,  and  sharpen  an 
end  of  each.  Place  the  blunt  ends  on  the  horizontal  pole, 
extending  over  about  six  inches,  and  bring  the  picked  ends 
down  to  the  ground,  and  imbed  them  firmly.  There  should 
be  a  little  slot  or  hole  cut  in  the  horizontal  pole  for  these 
rafters  to  lay  in,  and  they  should  be  placed  about  a  foot  apart. 
^Marline,  small  roots,  or  twigs,  should  be  used  to  fasten  the 
blunt  ends  of  the  rafters  to  the  horizontal  pole.  Now  cut 
some  maple  or  other  limbs,  D,  that  are  straight  and  a  little 
flexible,  and  place  them  across  your  rafters,  beginning  at  the 
top,  about  a  foot  from  the  horizontal  pole,  and  continuing  at 
regular  distances  until  you  reach  the  ground.  Weave  them 
over  and  under  the  rafters,  and  this  will  be  sufficient  to  keep 
them  in  place. 

If  there  is  plenty  of  cedar  in  the  vicinity  of  your  camp,  cut 
down  a  tree  or  two,  trim  the  trunks,  and  cut  them  into  lengths 
of  about  eight  feet ;  split  these  into  j)ieces  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  lay  them  lengthwise,  flat  on  your  roof.  Put  the 
first  course  as  near  together  as  you  can,  and  cover  that  by  a 
second,  overlapping  all  cracks ;  then  spread  a  couple  of  your 
rubber  blankets  over  your  cedar-splits,  and  tie  them  down, 
to  prevent   their  blowing  away,  and  you  will  have   a   tight 

roof.  If  you  can't 
get  the  cedar-splits 
cover  with  l)irch- 
l)ark  or  spruce- 
boughs  first  (see 
Fig.  2),  and  then 
the  blankets.  If 
you  use  spruce- 
boughs,  lay  them 
carefully  with  the 
small  ends  down- 
wards. AVhen  j^our 
roof  is  covered  in, 
roll  a  log,  six  or 
eight  inches  thick, 
to  the  back  of  vour 


Camp  Co3iplete. 


tup:  andijoscoggix  lakes. 


29 


camp,  and  let  it  bear  on  the  foot  of  the  rafters.     It  will  help 
keep  them  in  place,  and  stiffen  the  whole  structure. 

To  close  up  the  two  ends,  cut  poles  or  "cedar-splits,"  and 
stand  them  up  close  together  (see  Fig.  2),  l)eginning  at  the 
back  side  of  the  camp,  and  continuing  to  the  front.  The 
lower  end  of  these  should  be  sharijened  and  set  into  th  i 
ground  a  little.  When  each  end  is  closed  in,  run  another 
rafter  outside  of  them,  from  the  front  pole  to  the  ground,  to 
keep  them  in  place.  A  pile  of  brush  at  each  end  will  also 
help  keep  out  the  rain. 

The  front  can  be  left  entirely  open  to  the  weather  (see  Fig. 
3),  and  this  is  more  desirable  when  you  have  rubber  blanlvcts 
to  hang  up  in  case  of  a  storm,  or  t\\o  or  three  feet  of  each 
end  of  the  front  may  be  closed  up,  as  the  ends  were,  leaving 
a  space  of  three  or  four  feet  wide  in  the  middle  for  an  en- 
trance, which  can  l)e  covered  during  rain  l)y  a  rubber 
blanket. 

Make  the  floor  of  boards  if  possible,  and  have  it  slant  a 
little  towards  the  front.  If  you  can't  procure  boards,  cut 
cedar,  or  some  other  trees  into  proper  lengths,  about  three 
or  four  inches  in  diameter.  Hew  one  side  of  them  flat,  and 
lay  them  close  together  on  the  ground,  the  round  side  down. 
For  bedding,  use  small  cedar  limbs,  if  you  can  get  them ;  if 
net,  hemlock,  or 
spruce.  Don't 
throw  in  limbs  the 
size  of  cord  wood  ; 
such  sticks  will  not 
improve  your  rest 
any  at  night.  Over 
the  boughs  si)rea(l 
first  rubl)er  l)lank- 
ets,  then  woolen 
ones.  Have  one 
woolen  Ijlanket  l)e- 
neath  you,  and  the 
rest  over  you.  l)i 
damp       or       rainy 


Fig.  4. 


Tamp  FrHNiTUKi-:. 


;}0 


FAKKAirS    ILLl  8T1IATE1)    (U  IDP:   TU 


Avoatlior,  fii)road  a  niT)l)er  blanket  out  pide  of  your  woolen  ones. 
AVlien  you  retire  at  ni<;'ht,  leave  a  good,  large  fire  burning 
in  front  of  your  camp  (see  Fig.  3),  and  always  sleep  feet  to 
the  lire.  A  liannnoek  is  a  nice  tiling  to  sleep  in  during  i)leas- 
ant  weather.    Include  one  in  your  equipment,  by  all  means. 

Camp  biulding  calls  for  more  exercise  of  ingenuitj-  than  any 
other  part  of  camping  out.  But  you  will  be  surprised  to  see 
how  much  can  be  done  with  nothing  but  an  axe  and  a  willing 
pair  of  hands. 

A  table  and  benches  for  camp  use  may  be  made  as  follows 
(see  Fig.  4) :  — 

Cut  four  short,  crotched  sticks,  about  the  right  height  for 
your  table ;  sharpen  one  end  of  each  and  drive  them  into  the 
ground,  about  six  feet  apart  one  way,  and  two  the  other. 
T*ut  a  short  stick  across  the  ends  from  crotch  to  crotch,  and 
then  lay  poles  lengthwise  from  one  bearing  to  the  other. 
Secure  the  ends  of  each  with  withes  or  marline.  A  bench 
can  be  constructed  the  same  way,  only  make  it  lower,  and 
have  three  supports  for  the  horizontal  poles  instead  of  two. 
The  cuts  shown  in  the  book  give  our  ideas  on  cami:)s,  tables, 
and  l)enches,  and  can  be  built  by  any  one  possessed  of  an 
ordinary  amount  of  common-sense. 
Xiner  camp  out  alone.     There  is  no  fun  in  it ;   and,  if  taken 

suddenlj"  sick,  real 
danger.  Two,  three 
or  four,  with  guides 
(id  libitum,  make 
the  most  success- 
ful parties.  Each 
jjerson  for  a  larger 
party  needs  to  be 
very  carefully  se- 
lected, with  an 
idea  to  the  "fit- 
ness of  tilings,"  for 
nowhere  Mill  all 
that  is  disagree- 
able in  a    man,    so 


ig.  .). 


Camp  Cookery 


THE  ANDHOSCOGGIX   LAia]!3.  31 


soon  be  developed  as  in  the  woods  during  stormy  weather. 

Don't  try  to  shirk  your  share  of  th.e  work.  Your  friends 
will  never  forget  it,  and  will  twit  you  of  it  as  long  as  you 
live. 

For  gunning,  cai-ry  a  double-barrel  breeeh-loading  shot- 
gun or  rille.  Have  revolvers  conspicuous  by  their  ab- 
sence;  for  they  are  a  dangerous  nuisance.  If  you  take  one 
you  will  probably  shoot  yourself  or  somebody  else  with  it 
before  your  trip  is  over.  Let  some  of  your  party  carrj"-  rifles, 
others  double-barrel  shot-guns.  If  there  is  to  be  only  one 
fire-arm  in  the  party  give  a  gun  the  preference,  and  take 
plenty  of  buck-shot. 

If  you  don't  intend  to  hire  a  guide,  and  understand  nothing 
of  cooker}',  take  a  few  lessons  at  home  from  your  wife,  mother, 
oj-  sister,  in  simple  cooking,  and  learn  what  you  do  learn, 
thoroughly.  Then  buy  a  connnon,  cheap  cook-book,  and 
take  it  along  with  you.  It  will  be  liandy  to  have  in  the 
camp. 

In  cooking,  a  slack  fire  with  plenty  of  live  coals  is  better 
than  a  roaring  fire  with  a  great  deal  of  wood  (see  Fig.  5). 
If  3'ou  set  your  fi-yiug-pan  or  coffee  pot  on  the  lire,  watch 
them  that  they  don't  tip  over.  Wash  your  dishes  at  the 
close  of  every  meal  in  hot  water,  and  don't  forget  to  i)ut  a 
little  soap  in  the  water;  it  is  a  slovenly  trick  to  let  them  lay 
over  dirtj^  Two  forked  sticks  drove  into  the  ground  at  each 
side  of  your  fire,  with  a  green  limb  across,  is  a  good  thing 
to  hang  3'our  pots  and  kettles  on  when  stewing  or  boiling 
anything. 

To  prepare  trout  for  cooking,  split  them  along  the  belly 
and  remove  their  entrails;  then  cut  off  their  fins,  tails  and 
heads,  and  wash  thoroughly.  Chub  are  to  be  treated  iu  the 
same  manner,  only  they  must  first  be  well  scraped  to  rcmo\(^ 
their  scales.  Pickerel  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as 
irout. 

On  the  following  page  we  give  a  list  of  articles,  any  of 
which  will  be  useful  to  a  party  camping  out.  IJead  it  over 
carefully,  and  take  as  few  things  as  possible. 


82 


FARRAll'S  ILLUSTKATED   GUIDE  TO 


Axe, 

Bacon,  or  Ham, 
Bread-pan, 
Bean-kettle,  iron. 
Beans,  in  bag. 


Hammers,  Pocket  drinking-cup 

Hard-tack,  Royal  baking-pow- 
Ilatchet,  der, 

Hammock,  Eope, 

Iron-pot,  for  stews,  Rubber  coat, 

Butter,  in  bread-box,  Jamaica  Ginger,  Rubber  boots, 

Blankets,  woolen,      Knives,  pocket  and  Reading  matter, 

Blankets,  rubber,  sheath.  Rice, 

Buttons,  pant  and    Knives,   table  and  Raisins, 

shirt,  butcher.  Salt, 

Bait-box,  with  strap,Knapsack,  Salt  fish. 

Crackers,  Lard,  Salt  pork, 

Canned  goods.  Lemons,  Saw, 

Condensed  milk.        Lead-pencil,  Slippers, 

Maps,        _  _  Soap, 


Condensed  Cottee, 

Coffee-pot, 

Comb, 

Compass, 

Court-plaster, 

Cook-book, 

Candles, 

Candlestick, 

Dish-towels, 

Dish-cloth, 

Diary, 

Envelopes, 

Fishing-tackle, 

Flour, 

Field-glass, 


Matches,  ^"^star"'^      Spare  Hooks   and 
Match-safe,  air-tight    Lines, 


Marline, 

Meal,  in  bag. 

Molasses, 

Monkey-wrench, 

Mosquito-netting, 

Kails, 

Needles, 

Pails, 

Paper  collars. 

Pepper, 


Sugar, 

Sticking-plaster, 

Thread, 

Twine, 

Tooth-brush, 

Towels, 

Tea, 

Tin  baker, 

Teaspoons, 

Tablespoons, 


Powdered  mustard.  Tin  dippers, 


Frying  pan. 

Forks, 

Figs, 

Fly  preparation. 

Guide-book, 


Tin  plates. 
Tin  pails. 
Vinegar, 
Wash-basin, 
Writing  paper. 


Pickles, 

Pins, 

Portfolio, 

Postage-stamps, 

Potatoes,  in  bag. 

Postal-cards, 

Throw  all  your  swill  and  refuse  into  the  water ;  or,  if  j'ou 
are  encamped  for  anj'-  length  of  time  away  from  rivers, 
ponds,  or  lakes,  carry  it  to  some  distance  before  you  throw 
it  away;  or,  what  is  better  still,  bury  it,  if  the  ground  will 


THE  A^S^DROSCOGGm  LAIvES.  33 


permit.    Swill  around  a  camp  will  attract  flies  and  other  in- 
sects. 

If  troubled  by  black  flies,  mosquitoes,  midges,  or  other 
insects,  build  a  smtidge  in  this  way :  Start  a  good  fire,  and 
w^hen  well  agoing  cover  with  green  grass,  moss,  leaves,  or 
dirt,  thereby  making  a  dense  smoke.  If  you  have  an  old  iron 
kettle  to  build  it  in  it  is  much  better,  as  you  can  move  it 
about  if  the  wind  changes. 

A  piece  of  clothes-line  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  stretched 
between  two  trees,  is  handy  to  hang  wet  things  on  when  you 
wish  to  dry  them.  Have  it  far  enough  from  your  fire  to  keep 
the  articles  out  of  the  smoke. 

Keep  your  provisions,  anything  that  mice  or  ants  would 
hurt,  in  tight  boxes,  bags,  or  firkins.  The  woods  are  full  of 
field-mice,  squirrels,  and  ants,  and  they  will  find  your  camp 
as  soon  as  you  do.  Eainy  days  cover  your  stores  with  rubber 
blankets.  If  you  have  ham,  or  fresh  meat,  or  venison, 
among  your  stores,  keep  them  tightly  wrapped  up  in  cloths, 
and  hang  up  in  a  cool  place,  or  they  wull  soon  become  fly- 
bloAvn,  and  spoil. 

You  will  find  plenty  of  suitable  spots  for  camping,  all 
through  the  lake  region ;  and,  whenever  you  "break  camp," 
that  is  to  saj^,  move  from  one  spot  to  another,  don't  fail  to 
extinguish  your  fire,  no  matter  how  much  trouble  it  puts  you 
to.  A  fire  left  by  a  careless  camper  before  now  has  been  the 
means  of  destroying  thousands  of  dollars  worth  of  timber. 
A  conflagration  in  the  woods  is  no  laughing  matter ;  and,  by 
the  present  laws,  people  of  means  can  be  held  liable  for 
damages  in  such  cases,  or,  failing  to  have  property,  they 
may  be  imprisoned. 

In  moving  about  from  one  place  to  another,  don't  travel 
too  late.  Select  your  camping  site,  at  least,  two  hours  before 
dark,  and  be  sure  and  cut  plenty  of  firewood. 

Hygienic  Notes. 

We  quote  the  following  from  a  valuable  work  entitled 
"Field  Ornithology,*'  by  Dr.  Elliott  Coues,  U.  S.  A.,  and  it  is 


34  FAERAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

well  worth  the  perusal  of  the  person  intending  to  camp  out 
as  well  as  the  "stay-at-homes"  : — 

'■'■Always  carry  a  loaded  gun  at  half-cock  unless  you  are  about 
to  shoot.  Unless  the  lock  fail,  accidental  discharge  is  impos- 
sible, except  under  these  circumstances :  a,  a  direct  blow  on 
the  nipple  or  pin ;  ft,  catching  of  both  hammer  and  trigger 
simultaneously,  drawing  back  of  the  former  and  its  release 
whilst  the  trigger  is  still  held — the  chances  against  which  are 
simply  incalculable.  Full-cock,  ticklish  as  it  seems,  is  safer 
than  no-cock,  when  a  tap  on  the  hammer  or  even  the  heel- 
plate, or  a  slight  catch  and  release  of  the  hammer,  may  cause 
discharge.  Never  let  the  muzzle  of  a  loaded  gun  point 
toward  your  own  person  for  a  single  instant.  Get  j^our  gun 
over  fences  or  into  boats  or  carriages  before  you  get  over  or 
in  yourself,  or  at  any  rate  no  later.  Remove  caps  or  cart- 
ridges on  entering  a  house.  Never  aim  a  gun,  loaded  or  not, 
at  any  object  unless  you  mean  to  press  the  trigger.  Never 
put  a  loaded  gun  away  long  enough  to  forget  whether  it  is 
loaded  or  not.  Never  leave  a  loaded  gun  to  be  found  by 
others  under  circumstances  reasonably  presupposing  it  to  be 
unloaded.  Never  put  a  gun  whore  it  can  be  knocked  down 
by  a  dog  or  a  child.  Never  forget  that,  though  a  gunning 
accident  may  be  sometimes  interpretable  (from  a  certain 
standpoint)  as  a  "dispensation  of  Providence,"  such  are  dis- 
pensed oftenest  to  the  careless. 

"The  secret  of  safe  climbing  is  never  to  relax  one  hold 
until  another  is  secured ;  it  is  in  spirit  equally  applicable  to 
scrambling  over  rocks, — a  particularly  difRcult  thing  to  do 
safely  with  a  loaded  gun.  Test  rotten,  slippery,  or  other- 
wise suspicious  holds  before  trusting  them.  In  lifting  the 
bod}''  up  anywhere  keep  the  mouth  shut,  breathe  through  the 
nostrils,  and  go  slowly. 

"In  swimming  waste  no  strength  unnecessarily  in  trying  to 
stem  a  current :  yield  partly,  and  land  obliquely  lower  down ; 
if  exhausted,  float, — the  slightest  motion  of  the  hands  will 
ordinarily  keep  the  face  above  water;  and  in  any  event  keep 
your  wits  collected.  In  fording  deeply  a  heavy  stone  in  the 
hands  [above  water]  will  strengthen  j^our  position.      Never 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  35 

sail  a  boat  experimentally;  if  you  are  no  sailor,  take  one 
with  you  or  stay  on  land. 

"In  crossing  a  high,  narrow  foot-path,  never  look  lower 
than  your  feet ;  the  muscles  will  work  true,  if  not  confused 
with  faltering  instructions  from  a  giddy  brain.  On  soft 
ground,  see  what,  if  anything,  has  preceeded  you ;  large  hoof- 
marks  generally  mean  that  the  way  is  safe;  if  none  are 
found,  inquire  for  yourself  before  going  on.  Quicksand  is 
the  most  treacherous,  because  far  more  dangerous  than  it 
looks ;  but  I  have  seen  a  mule's  ears  finally  disai^ijear  in  gen- 
uine mud. 

"Cattle-paths,  however  erratic,  commonly  prove  the  surest 
way  out  of  a  difficult  place,  whether  of  uncertain  footing  or 
dense  undergrowth. 

"Unguarded  exposure  in  malarious  regions  usually  entails 
sickness,  often  preventable,  however,  by  due  precautions. 
It  is  worth  knowing  in  the  first  place,  that  miasmatic  poison 
is  most  powerful  between  sunset  and  sunrise, — more  exactly 
from  the  damp  of  the  evening  until  night  vapors  are  dissi- 
pated; we  may  be  out  in  the  daytime  with  comparative 
impunity,  where  to  pass  a  night  would  be  almost  certain  dis- 
ease. If  forced  to  camp  out,  seek  the  highest  and  driest 
spot ;  put  a  good  fire  on  the  swamp  side,  and  also,  if  possible, 
let  trees  intervene.  Never  go  out  on  an  empty  stomach: 
just  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a  crust  may  make  a  decided  differ- 
ence. Meet  the  earliest  unfavorable  symptoms  with  quinine, 
— I  should  rather  say,  if  unacclimated,  anticipate  them  with 
this  invaluable  agent.  Endeavor  to  maintain  high  health  of 
all  functions  by  the  natural  means  of  regularity  and  temper- 
ance in  diet,  exercise,  and  repose. 

Taking  Cold. 

"This  vague  'household  word'  indicates  one  or  more  of  a 
long  varied  train  of  unpleasant  affections,  nearly  always 
traceable  to  one  or  the  other  of  only  two  causes :  sudden 
change  of  temi)erature,  and  unequal  distribution  of  tempera- 
ture. No  extremes  of  heat  or  cold  can  alone  effect  this 
result ;  persons  frozen  to  death  do  not  'take  cold'   during  the 


36  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

process.  But  if  a  part  of  the  body  be  rapidly  cooled,  as  by 
evaporation  from  a  wet  article  of  clothing,  or  by  sitting  in  a 
draught  of  air,  the  rest  of  the  body  remaining  at  an  ordinary 
temperature;  or  if  the  temperature  of  the  whole  be  suddenly 
changed  by  going  out  into  the  cold,  or,  especiallj^,  by  coming 
into  a  warm  room,  there  is  much  liability  of  trouble.  There 
is  an  old  saying, — 

"  'When  the  air  comes  through  a  hole, 
Say  your  prayers  to  save  your  soul ;' 

and  I  should  think  almost  any  one  could  get  a  'cold'  with  a 
spoonful  of  water  on  the  wrist  held  to  a  key-hole.  Singular 
as  it  may  seem,  sudden  warming  when  cold  is  more  danger- 
ous than  the  reverse;  every  one  has  noticed  how  soon  the 
handkerchief  is  required  on  entering  a  heated  room  on  a  cold 
day.  Frost-bite  is  an  extreme  illustration  of  this.  As  the 
Irishman  said  on  picking  himself  up,  it  was  not  the  fall,  but 
stopping  so  quickly,  that  hurt  him ;  it  is  not  the  lowering  of 
the  temperature  to  the  freezing  point,  but  its  subsequent  ele- 
vation, that  devitalizes  the  tissue.  This  is  why  rubbing  with 
snow,  or  bathing  in  cold  water,  is  required  to  restore  safely 
a  frozen  part;  the  arrested  circulation  must  be  very  gradually 
reestablished,  or  inflammation,  perhaps  mortification,  ensues. 

"General  precautions  against  taking  cold  are  almost  self- 
evident,  in  this  light.  There  is  ordinarily  little,  if  any 
danger  to  be  apprehended  from  wet  clothes  so  long  as  exer- 
cise is  kept  up ;  for  the  'glow'  about  compensates  for  the  extra 
cooling  by  evaporation.  Nor  is  a  complete  drenching  more 
likely  to  be  injurious  than  wetting  of  one  part.  But  never 
sit  still  wet;  and  in  changing,  rub  the  body  dry.  There  is  a 
general  tendency,  springing  from  fatigue,  indolence,  or  indif- 
ference, to  neglect  damx)  feet, — that  is  to  say,  to  dry  them  by 
the  fire ;  but  this  process  is  tedious  and  uncertain.  I  would 
say  especiall5^  'Ofi"  with  muddy  boots  and  sodden  socks  at 
once,'  dry  stockings  and  slippers,  after  a  hunt,  may  make 
just  the  difference  of  your  being  able  to  go  out  again  or  never. 

"Take  care  never  to  check  perspiration.  During  this 
process  the  bodj^  is   in  a  somewhat  critical  condition,   and 


38  FARRAPv'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

sudden  arrest  of  the  function  may  result  disastrously,  even 
fatally.  One  part  of  the  business  of  perspiration  is  to  equal- 
ize bodily  temperature,  and  it  must  not  be  interfered  with. 
The  secret  of  much  that  is  to  be  said  about  bathing  when 
heated,  lies  here.  A  person  overheated,  panting  it  may  be, 
with  throbbing  temples  and  a  dry  skin  is  in  danger  partly 
because  the  natural  cooling  by  evaporation  from  the  skin  is 
denied,  and  this  condition  is  sometimes  not  far  from  a  'sun- 
stroke.' Under  these  circumstances  a  person  of  fairly  good 
constitution  may  plunge  into  the  water  with  impunity, — even 
with  benefit.  But,  if  the  body  be  already  cooling  by  sweat- 
ing, rapid  abstraction  of  heat  from  the  surface  may  cause 
internal  congestion,  never  unattended  with  danger. 

"Drinking  ice-water  offers  a  somewhat  parallel  case;  even 
on  stooping  to  drink  at  the  brook,  when  flushed  with  heat,  it 
is  well  to  bathe  the  face  and  hands  first,  and  to  taste  the 
water  before  a  full  draught.  It  is  a  well-known  excellent 
rule,  not  to  bathe  immediately  after  a  full  meal ;  because 
during  digestion  the  organs  concerned  are  comparatively  en- 
gorged, and  any  sudden  disturbance  of  the  circulation  maj'- 
be  disastrous. 

"The  imperative  necessity  of  resisting  drowsiness  under 
extreme  cold  requires  no  comment. 

"In  walking  under  a  hot  sun  the  head  may  be  sensibly  pro- 
tected by  green  leaves  or  grass  in  the  hat ;  they  may  be  ad- 
vantageously moistened,  but  not  enough  to  drip  about  the 
ears.  Under  such  circumstances  the  slightest  giddiness, 
dimness  of  sight,  or  confusion  of  ideas,  should  be  taken  as  a 
warning  of  possible  sunstroke,  instantly  demanding  rest, 
and  shelter  if  practicable. 

"Hunger  and  fatigue  are  more  closely  related  than  they 
might  seem  to  be ;  one  is  a  sign  that  the  fuel  is  out,  and  the 
other  asks  for  it.  Extreme  fatigue,  indeed,  destroys  appetite ; 
this  siiui^ly  means,  temporary  incapacity  for  digestion.  But 
even  far  siiort  of  this,  food  is  more  easily  digested  and  better 
relished  after  a  little  preparation  of  the  furnace.  On  coming 
home  tired  it  is  much  better  to  make  a  leisurely  and  reason- 
ably nice  toilet  than  to  eat  at  once,  or  to  lie  still  thinking  how 


THE  AOT)ROSCOGGIN-  LAKES.  39 


tired  you  are.  After  a  change  and  a  wash  you  will  feel  like 
a  'new  man,'  and  go  to  table  in  capital  state.  Whatever 
dietetic  irregularities  a  high  state  of  civilization  may  demand 
or  render  practicable,  a  normally  healthy  person  is  incon- 
venienced almost  as  soon  as  his  regular  meal-time  passes 
without  food ;  and  few  can  work  comfortably  or  profitably 
fasting  over  six  or  eight  hours.  Eat  before  starting;  if  for 
a  day's  tramp,  take  a  lunch ;  the  most  frugal  meal  will  ap- 
pease if  it  do  not  satisfy  hunger,  and  so  postpone  its  ur- 
gency. As  a  small  scrap  of  practical  wisdom,  I  would  add, 
keep  the  remnants  of  the  lunch,  if  there  are  any ;  for  you 
cannot  always  be  sure  of  getting  in  to  supper. 

"When  cold,  fatigued,  depressed  in  mind,  and  on  other  oc- 
casions, you  may  feel  inclined  to  resort  to  artificial  stimulus. 
Respecting  this  many-sided  theme  I  have  a  few  words  to 
offer  of  direct  bearing.  It  should  be  clearly  understood,  in 
the  first  place,  that  a  stimulant  confers  no  strength  whatever  • 
it  simply  calls  the  powers  that  be  into  increased  action  at 
their  own  expense.  Seeking  real  strength  in  stimulus  is  as 
wise  as  an  attempt  to  lift  yourself  up  by  the  boot-straps. 
You  may  gather  yourself  to  leap  the  ditch  and  you  clear  it ; 
but  no  such  muscular  energy  can  be  sustained ;  exhaustion 
speedily  renders  further  expenditure  impossible.  But  now, 
suppose  a  very  powerful  mental  impression  be  made,  say  the 
circumstance  of  a  succession  of  ditches  in  front,  and  a  mad 
dog  behind,  if  the  stimulus  of  terror  be  sufiiciently  strong 
you  may  leap  on  till  you  drop  senseless.  Alcoholic  stimulus 
is  a  parallel  case,  and  is  not  seldom  pushed  to  the  same  ex- 
treme. Under  its  influence  you  never  can  tell  when  you  are 
tired ;  the  expenditure  goes  on,  indeed,  with  unnatural  rapid- 
ity, only  it  is  not  felt  at  the  time ;  but  the  upshot  is,  you 
have  all  the  original  fatigue  to  endure  and  to  recover  from, 
plus  the  fatigue  resulting  from  over-excitation  of  the  sj^stem. 
Taken  as  a  fortification  against  cold,  alcohol  is  as  unsatisfac- 
tory as  a  remedy  for  fatigue,  insensibility  to  cold  does  not 
imply  protection.  The  fact  is,  the  exposure  is  greater  than 
before;  the  circulation  and  respiration  being  hurried,  the 
waste  is  greater,   and  as  sound  fuel  cannot  be   immediately 


a" 

o 
►—I 

C 
H 

o 
a 

H 


<1 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAICES.  41 


supplied,  the  temperature  of  the  body  is  soon  lowered.  The 
transient  warmth  and  glow  over,  the  system  has  both  cold 
and  depression  to  endure ;  there  is  no  use  in  borrowing  from 
j^ourself  and  fancying  j'ou  are  richer. 

"Secondly,  the  value  of  any  stimulus  (except  in  a  few  ex- 
igencies of  disease  or  injury)  is  in  proportion,  not  to  the  in- 
tensity, but  to  the  equableness  and  durability  of  its  effect. 
This  is  one  reason  why  tea,  coffee,  and  articles  of  correspond- 
ing qualities,  are  preferable  to  alcoholic  drinks.  They  work 
so  smoothly  that  their  effect  is  often  unnoticed,  and  thQj 
'stay  by*  well.  The  friction  of  alcohol  is  tremendous  in 
comparison.  A  glass  of  grog  may  help  a  veteran  over  the 
fence;  but  no  one,  young  or  old,  can  shoot  all  day  on 
whiskey. 

"Thirdly,  undue  excitation  of  any  physical  function  is  fol- 
lowed by  corresponding  depression,  on  the  simple  principle 
that  action  and  reaction  are  equal ;  and  the  balance  of  health 
turns  too  easily  to  be  wilfully  disturbed.  Stimulation  is  a 
draft  upon  vital  capital,  when  interest  alone  should  sutRce. 
It  may  be  needed  at  times  to  bridge  a  chasm ;  but  habitual 
living  beyond  vital  income  infallibly  entails  bankruptcy  in 
health.  The  use  of  alcohol  in  health  seems  practically  re- 
stricted to  purposes  of  sensuous  gratification  on  the  part  of 
those  prepared  to  pay  a  round  price  for  this  luxury.  The 
three  golden  rules  here  are.  Never  drink  before  breakfast ; 
never  drink  alone ;  and  never  drink  bad  liquor.  Their  ob- 
servance may  make  even  the  abuse  of  alcohol  tolerable. 
Serious  objections  for  a  naturalist,  at  least,  are  that  science, 
viewed  through  a  glass,  seems  distant  and  uncertain,  while 
the  joys  of  rum  are  immediate  and  unquestionable;  and  that 
intemperance,  being  an  attempt  to  defy  certain  physical  laws, 
is  therefore  eminently  unscientific." 

In  this  connection  we  take  the  following  from  a  very  inter- 
esting little  work,  by  John  M.  Gould,  entitled  "How  to  Camp 
Out." 

"If  troubled  by  costiveness,  eat  laxative  food  on  those 
days, — figs  are  especially  good — and  try  not  to  work  too  hard. 
Do  not  dose  with  medicines,  nor  take  alcoholic  stimulants. 


f 


42  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 


Physic  and  alcohol  may  give  a  temporary  relief,  but  they 
will  leave  you  in  bad  condition. 

"Diarrhoea  may  result  from  over-work  and  gluttony  com- 
bined, and  from  eating  indigestible  or  uncooked  food,  and 
from  imperfect  protection  of  the  stomach.  'Remove  the 
cause,  and  the  effect  will  cease.'  A  flannel  bandage  six  to 
twelve  inches  wide,  worn  around  the  stomach,  is  good  as  a 
preventative  and  cure. 

"The  same  causes  may  produce  cholera-morbus ;  symp- 
toms, violent  vomiting  and  purging,  faintness,  and  spasms  in 
the  arms  and  limbs.  Unless  accompanied  with  cramj)  (w^hich 
is  not  usual),  nature  will  work  its  own  cure.  Give  warm 
drinks,  if  you  have  them.  Do  not  get  frightened ;  but  keep 
the  patient  warm,  and  well  protected  from  a  draught  of  air. 

"In  all  cases  of  internal  poisoning  the  first  step  is  to  evacu- 
ate the  stomach.  This  should  be  effected  by  an  emetic  w^hich 
is  quiddy  obtained,  and  most  powerful  and  speedy  in  its  op- 
eration. Such  is  powdered  mustard  (a  large  tablespoonful  in 
a  tumblerful  of  warm  water) .  When  vomiting  has  already 
taken  place  copious  draughts  of  warm  water  should  be  given, 
to  keep  up  thei  effect  till  the  poisoning  substance  has  been 
thoroughly  removed." 

Marshall  HalVs  read))  method  in  suffocation,  drowning,  etc. : — 

1st.  Treat  the  patient  instantly  on  the  spot.,  in  the  open  air^ 
freely  exposing  the  face,  neck,  and  chest  to  the  breeze, 
except  in  severe  weather. 

2d.  In  order  to  clear  the  throat.,  place  the  patient  gently  on 
the  face,  with  one  wrist  under  the  forehead,  that  all  fluid, 
and  the  tongue  itself,  may  fall  forward,  and  leave  the  en- 
trance into  the  windpipe  free. 

3d.  To  excite  respiration,  turn  the  patient  slightly  on  his 
side,  and  apply  some  irritating  or  stimulating  agent  to  the 
nostrils,  as  veratnne,  dilute  ammonia,  etc. 

4th.  Make  the  face  warm  by  brisk  friction;  then  dash 
cold  water  upon  it. 

oth.  If  not  successful,  lose  no  time ;  but,  to  imitate  respi- 
ration^ place  the  patient  on  his  face,  and  turn  the  body  gently 
but  completely  on  the  side  and  a  little  beyond,  then  turn  again 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  43 

on  the  face,  and  so  on  alternately.  Eepeat  these  movements 
deliberately  and  perseveringly, //ifee?z  times  only  in  a  minute. 
(When  the  patient  lies  on  the  thorax,  this  cavity  is  compressed 
by  the  weight  of  the  body,  and  expiration  takes  place. 
When  he  is  turned  on  the  side,  this  pressure  is  removed,  and 
Inspiration  occurs.) 

6th.  When  the  prone  position  is  resumed,  make  a  uniform 
and  efficient  pressure  alonr/  the  spine^  removing  the  pressure 
immediately,  before  rotation  on  the  side.  (The  pressure 
augments  the  ea*piration,  the  rotation  commences  ^7^spira- 
tion.)     Continue  these  measures. 

7th.  Eub  the  limbs  ujncanl  with  firm  pressure  and  with 
energy.  (The  object  being  to  aid  the  return  of  venous  blood 
to  the  heart.) 

8th.  Substitute  for  the  patient's  wet  clothing,  if  possible, 
such  other  covering  as  can  be  instantly  procured,  each  by- 
stander supplying  a  coat  or  cloak,  etc.  Meantime,  and  from 
time  to  time,  to  excite  inspiration^  let  the  surface  of  the  body 
be  shipped  briskly  with  the  hand. 

9th.  Eub  the  body  briskly  till  it  is  dry  and  warm,  then 
dash  cold  water  upon  it,  and  repeat  the  rubbing. 

Avoid  the  immediate  removal  of  the  patient,  as  it  involves 
a  dangerous  loss  of  time ;  also  the  use  of  bellows  or  any  forc- 
ing-instrument'^ also  the  loarm  hath  and  all  rough  ti^atment. 


CHAFrER  riL 


!]|0H^$  ^rmn  ^ustnn  fa  lift  ^itttrnsjjnjjin 


ERSONS  visiting  the  Androscog- 
gin  Lal^es  from   Canada,   or  the 
West,  will  find  it  most  convenient 
to  travel  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way to  Bethel  or  Bi-yant\s  Pond,  and 
then  continue  their  journey  by  one    of 
the  routes  hereafter  described. 

From  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Balti- 
more, Washington,  and  other  cities,  south 
and  south  west,  parties  have  a  choice  of 
several  routes  to  Boston  and  Portland, 
all  of  which  can  be  easily  ascertained  through  the  "Travel- 
ers' OflEicial  Guide."  Arriving  in  Boston,  the  traveler  has 
choice  of  four  distinct  routes  by  which  the  lake  countrj'^  can 
be  reached.     The  first  we  will  designate   as  the 

BETHEL  AND  CAMBRIDGE  ROUTE. 

The  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  is  now  the  only  rail  route 
between  Boston  and  Portland,  but  it  is  divided  into  two  di- 
visions, known  as  the  Eastern  and  Western. 

45 


^^^-^^^^^^'^Qff/tSo^j  SC. 
Screw-Auger  Falls,  Bear  River. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKE^. 


71 


The  trains  over  the  Western  Division  leave  from  Ilay- 
raarket  Square  Depot,  at  tlie  head  of  Washington  St.,  at  8.30 
A.  M.,  and  1.00  P.  M.,  running  through  Charlestowu,  Somer- 
ville,  Maiden,  Melrose,  Lawrenee,  Haverhill,  Exeter,  (all 
trains  stop  here  ten  minutes  for  refreshments,)  New- 
market, Dover,  Salmon  Falls,  North  Berwick,  Wells,  Kenne- 
bunk,  Biddef ord,  Saco,  Old  Orchard  and  Scarboro',  arriving  in 
Portland  at  12.30  and  5.00  P.  M.  After  stopping  a  few  moments 
to  leave  Portland  passengers,  the  trains  cross  the  city  to  the 
Grand  Trunk  PailwajT"  Station,  where  you  change  cars.  A 
parlor  car  accompanies  the  8.30  train  to  Portland,  and  an  extra 
expense  of  sixty  cents,  entitles  one  to  a  seat  in  it.  During 
the  height  of  summer  travel,  usually  for  a  period  of  three 
months,  an  extra  parlor  car  is  attached  to  this  train  and  is 
shifted  in  Portland  to  the  Grand  Trunk  train,  and  runs  over 
the  latter  road  as  far  as  Gorham,  N.  II.,  twenty  miles  beyond 
Bethel.  Travelers  to  the  lake  region  may  avail  themselves  of 
this  car  by  the  payment  of  one  dollar  extra,  that  being  the  price 
of  a  seat  between  Boston  and  either  Bryant's  Pond  or  Bethel. 
Those  who  secure  seats  in  this  through  parlor  car  avoid  the 
change  in  Portland.  We  especially  recommend  it  to  ladies 
traveling  unaccompanied  by  gentlemen,  as  it  will  save  them 
trouble  and  anxiety. 

The  1.00  p.  M.  train,  with  Parlor  Car  attached,  arrives  in 
Portland  at  5.00  P.  M.,  and  crosses  the  city  to  the  Grand 
Trunk  Depot,  where  j^ou  change  cars.  The  Lewiston  train 
leaves  at  5.15,  and  j'ou  ride  on  it  as  far  as  Lewiston  Junction, 
where  you  change  to  the  north-bound  train  which  is  awaiting 
you  at  this  point.  B}^  it  you  reach  Bethel  at  8.00  p.  m.,  where 
you  stop  over  night,  and  continue  your  journey  to  the  Lake- 
side Hotel,  Cambridge,  N.  H.,  at  the  foot  of  Umbagog  Lake, 
the  next  day. 

The  trains  for  Portland  over  the  Eastern  Division  leave 
from  the  Causeway  Street  Depot,  opposite  Friend  Street,  at 
9.00  A.  M.,  12.30  and  7.00  p.  M.,  running  through  Charlestown, 
Somerville,  Everett,  Chelsea,  Lynn,  Swam^pscott,  New- 
buryport,  Hampton,  Portsmouth,  (all  trains  stop  here 
ten  minutes  for    refreshments,)     Kittery,    North   Berwick, 


J 


48  FAIIEAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


Wells,  Kennebuuk,  Biddeford,  Saco,  and  Scarboro',  reaching 
Portland  at  1.00  p.  m.,  and  after  the  usual  few  moments  stop 
crosses  the  city  to  the  Grand  Trunk  Depot  where  you  change 
cars.  A  Pullman  Parlor  Car  accompanies  this  train  as  far  as 
Portland,  the  charge  per  seat  extra,  being  sixty  cents. 

The  12.30  p.  M.  train,  including  Pullman  Parlor  Car,  reach- 
es Portland  at  4.40  P.  M.,  and  crosses  the  city  the  same  as  the 
morning  train,  and  you  connect  with  the  same  trains  over  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  as  spoken  of  before.  Travelers  will 
bear  in  mind  that  there  are  no  Sunday  trains  over  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  in  either  direction. 

The  7.00  p.  M.  train  also  includes  Parlor  Car  and  arrives  in 
Portland  at  11.00  P.  M.,  and  travelers  to  the  Lake  Region  stop 
in  the  city  over  night,  and  take  the  north-bound  train  over 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  the  next  morning. 

Both  of  the  routes  mentioned  between  Boston  and  Portland 
are  very  pleasant,  and  offer  to  the  eye  of  the  traveler  a  series 
of  charming  views.  And  as  Excursion  Tickets  are  now  good 
between  Boston  and  Portland  over  either  division  of  the  road, 
we  recommend  that  you  go  to  Portland  by  the  Western  Di- 
vision, and  return  by  the  Eastern,  or  vice  versa,  as  you  think 
best. 

The  water  route  between  Boston  and  Portland  is  a  favorite 
with  many  of  the  tourists  and  sportsmen,  who  annually  visit 
New  England  and  those  who  are  fond  of  the  water,  and  not 
troubled  by  sea-sickness,  will  find  the  sail  delightful  and  free 
from  the  fatigue  of  railroad  travel. 

The  boats  of  the  Portland  Steam  Packet  Company  leave 
Boston  daily  at  7.00  p.  m.,  Sundays  from  June  1st  to  middle 
of  Sept.  8.00  p.  M.,  from  the  south  side  of  India  wharf,  acces- 
sible from  all  parts  of  the  city  by  horse  cars,  arriving  in  Port- 
land early  the  following  morning,  in  season  to  connect  with 
all  trains  over  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  The  boats  usually 
reach  their  dock  by  five  o'clock,  giving  ample  time  for  break- 
fast and  to  see  all  of  interest  in  the  city.  The  cost  of  Excur- 
sion Tickets  to  the  Lake  Region,  by  steamer  each  way  be- 
tween Boston  and  Portland,  is  one  dollar  less  than  by  rail. 
These  Tickets  may  be  procured  at  Grand  Trunk  Ticket  Office, 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  49 

280  Washington  St.  A  table  d'hote  supper  is  served  on  the 
boats  for  seventy-five  cents.  Staterooms  containing  two 
berths  are  sold  on  the  boats,  or  at  the  Boston  office  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Eailway,  at  $1.00  and  $1.50,according  to  location. 

There  is  such  a  demand  for  staterooms  during  the  summer 
season,  that  it  is  best  to  engage  one  several  days  in  advance. 
This  may  be  done  in  Boston  personally,  or  by  letter  or  tele- 
graph to  C.  F.  Williams,  General  Agent  of  the  Company  ;it 
India  Wharf.  In  Portland,  address  or  call  on  J.  F.  Liscomb, 
Treasurer  of  the  Company  at  Franklin  Wharf. 

The  boats  land  in  Portland  at  Franklin  Wharf  within  three 
minutes'  walk  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Depot.  Horse  cars  to  all 
parts  of  the  citj^  pass  the  head  of  the  wharf  every  fcM'  minutes 
throughout  thedaj'and  evening.  Passengers  traveling  by  this 
line  can  have  their  baggage  checked  in  Boston  direct  to  all 
points  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and  are  freed  from  all 
care  of  it,  until  they  reach  their  objective  point  on  the  railroad. 

The  steamers  of  this  line,  the  Tremont,  John  Brooks  and 
Forest  City,  are  fine  boats,  commodious  and  safe,  and  have 
never  met  with  accident.  They  are  officered  by  competent 
and  courteous  gentlemen,  whom  it  is  a  pleasure  to  meet,  and 
passengers  are  shown  every  needed  attention. 

The  latest  addition  to  the  Company's  fleet,  the  new  steamer 
Tremont,  is  two  hundred  and  sixtj^-five  feet  long,  and  is  the 
largest  boat  east  of  Long  Island  Sound.  She  is  elegantly  fitted 
and  furnished  with  all  the  modern  improvements,  and  has  one 
hundred  comfortable  staterooms.  The  cabins  and  saloons  are 
finished  in  cherry  and  mahogan3^  In  furnishing  this  steamer 
nothing  has  been  spared  that  will  add  to  the  comfort,  conven- 
ience and  safety  of  the  Company's  patrons. 

From  Boston  the  boats  pass  down  the  harbor,  near  and  in 
sight  of  all  the  forts  and  light-houses  and  some  of  the  city 
institutions,  thence  follows  the  eastern  coast  past  Lynn,  Na- 
hant,  Egg  Rock  Light,  Salem,  Baker's  Island  Light,  Glouces- 
ter, Cape  Ann,  Thatcher's  Island  Light,  Isles  of  Shoals,  Boon 
Island  Light,  Cape  Porpoise,  Wood  Island  Light,  Cape  Eliza- 
beth Light,  and  thence  past  the  Islands  in  Portland  harbor  to 
Franklin  Wharf. 


The  Jail." 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIOES.  51 

The  boats  clear  the  harbor  from  either  end  of  the  route 
before  daylight  fades  into  darkness,  and  the  constantly  chang- 
ing panorama  is  interesting  and  enjoyable.  If  you  have  never 
tried  the  ocean  trip  between  the  two  cities,  do  so  by  all  means, 
and  see  if  j^ou  do  not  like  it. 

Many  of  the  people  of  Maine  visit  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Region,  and  those  who  do  not  live  farther  east  than  Augusta, 
by  leaving  home  in  the  morning,  can  reach  Lake  Umbagog  the 
same  evening  i-ia  Maine  Central  Railroad  to  Yarmouth  or  Dan- 
ville Junctions,  thence  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Bethel. 

Passengers  by  the  rail-routes  between  Boston  and  Bethel 
will  find  lunch  and  dining  rooms  at  both  depots  in  Boston, 
Exeter,  Portsmouth,  Boston  &  Maine  Transfer  Station,  Port- 
land, Maine  Central  and  Grand  Trunk  Depots,  Portland,  and 
at  Danville  Junction. 

Pullman  Palace  Cars  are  attached  to  the  morning  express 
train,  and  the  afternoon  mail  train,  and  the  price  of  a  seat 
between  Portland  and  Bryant's  Pond  or  Bethel,  is  twenty- 
five  cents.  ^ 

The  ride  from  Portland  is  interesting  and  pleasant,  the 
train  passing  for  a  mile  along  the  water  front,  thence  through 
Deering,  Falmouth,  Cumberland,  Yarmouth,  (Yarnaouth 
Junction,)  Pownal,  New  Gloucester,  (Danville  Junction,) 
Poland,  (Lewiston  Junction,)  Mechanic  Falls,  Oxford,  South 
Paris,  (Norway  Branch,)  West  Paris,  Bryant's  Pond,  Locke's 
Mills,  arriving  at  Bethel  by  morning  train  from  Portland,  at 
11.40  A.  M.,  noon  train,  4.30  P.  M.,  evening  train,  8.00  P.  M. 

The  AxDKOscoGGix  L.vKES  Transportation  Company's 
Stages  leave  Bethel  daily  at  1.00  p.  m.,  (after  dinner,)  and 
take  passengers  directly  to  the  well-known  and  comfortable 
Lakeside  Hotel,  foot  of  Umbagog  Lake,  in  Cambridge, 
N.  H.,  arriving  at  6.30  to  supper.  Distance  27  miles,  fare, 
$3.00.  Parties  arriving  at  4.30  and  8.00  P.3I.  will  have  to  stop 
in  Bethel  over  night,  and  renew  their  journey  the  next  day, 
or  hire  a  private  team  at  extra  expense  to  take  them  through 
at  night. 

Good  accommodations  will  be  found  at  the  Bethel  House, 
or  the  Elms  House.    Both  these  hotels  are  situated  on  the 


52  FAIIKAR-S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


summit  of  Bethel  Hill,  iu  close  Droximity  to  each  other,  near 
the  business  part  of  the  town,  and  are  pleasantly  located  on 
the  main  street  of  the  village 

We  would  recommend  the  daylight  ride  from  Bethel  to 
Lake  Umbagog,  as  it  enables  one  to  view  the  whole  of  the 
scenery.  Parties  who  take  the  ride  in  the  evening  lose  a 
great  deal  that  is  worth  seeing. 

The  ride  from  Bethel  to  Cambridge,  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Umbagog,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  New  England,  and  every 
person  who  makes  the  trip  is  delighted  with  it.  The  road 
will  lead  you  to 

"Our  sea-like  lakes,  and  mountains 
Piled  to  the  clouds, — our  rivers  overhung 
By  forests  which  have  known  no  other  change 
For  ages,  than  the  budding  and  the  fall 
Of  leaves — our  valie5-s  lovelier  than  those 
Which  the  old  poets  sang  of." 

Starting  from  the  Depot,  the  carriage  road  runs  parallel 
with  the  track  for  a  short  distance,  then  turning  sharply  to 
the  right  crosses  the  railroad  over  a  wooden  bridge ;  just  be- 
yond this,  you  obtain  a  splendid  view  of  the  meadows  and 
intervales  that  lie  along  the  Androscoggin  River,  the  whole 
valley  hemmed  in  by  hundreds  of  mountains  towering  loftily 
in  every  direction.  The  landscape  seems  to  satisfy,  which- 
ever way  you  turn.  The  meadows  of  Bethel  have  long  been 
noted  for  their  beauty  and  are  pronounced  by  some  simply 
incomparable;  and  towards  the  close  of  a  clear  summer's 
day,  when  the  mellow  sunlight  falls  slanting  upon  the  wav- 
ius:  srrass,  casting  long  shadows  from  the  graceful  elms  with 
which  the  intervales  are  dotted,  and  the  eye  traces  northward 
the  narrowing  line  of  hills  following  the  course  of  the  silvery 
Androscoggin,  and  catches  the  clear-cut  and  well-defined 
edges  of  the  monarchal  White  Mountain  range,  sweeping 
across  and  closing  up  the  vista,  it  is  impossible  to  conceive 
anywhere  in  New  England  a  picture  that  will  more  strongly 
appeal  to  an  artisfs  love  of  the  beautiful. 

"The  great  peaks  seem  so  near, 
Burned  clean  of  mist,  so  starkly  bold  and  clear, 
I  almost  pause  the  wind  in  the  pines  to  hear, 
The  loose  rock's  fall,  the  steps  of  browsing  deer." 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  53 

A  short  distance  beyond  the  raih-oad  bridge  the  best  view 
from  the  road  of  Mount  Washington  and  its  neighboring 
peaks  is  to  be  obtained  away  to  the  left,  and  a  half-mile  be- 
yond the  railroad  you  reach  the  Androscoggin  River,  which 
is  wide  and  rapid  at  this  point.  It  is  crossed  by  means  of  a 
toll  bridge,  which  is  a  substantially  built  structure  of  wood, 
having  a  roof,  but  open  partially  on  both  sides.  The  bridge 
was  built  by  the  town  of  Bethel,  at  an  expense  of  over 
twenty-five  thousand  dollars.  A  short  distance  below  the 
bridge,  the  river  makes  an  abrupt  bend  to  the  left,  and  flows 
merrily  along  on  the  right  of  the  road,  remaining  in  sight 
until  you  pass  Newry  Corner.  After  leaving  the  river  bridge 
you  pass  through  Maysville  and  Swan's  Corner,  suburbs  of 
Bethel,  and  two  miles  beyond  reach  North  Bethel.  Continu- 
ing on  through  this  village  you  reach  Sunday  River  on  your 
left.  This  stream  sweeps  down  from  the  mountains  lying 
northward,  and  empties  into  the  Androscoggin  a  few  rods 
from  the  road.  It  rises  suddenly  after  heavy  rains  and  some- 
times is  inclined  to  be  mischievous.  Trout-fishing  is  very  fair 
on  the  upper  end  of  this  stream  in  the  spring  and  early  summer 
and  the  drive  up  the  Sunday  River  valley  for  about  six  miles  is 
charming.  Following  Sunday  River  as  you  progress  toward 
the  lake  region,  you  pass  out  of  the  village  of  North  Bethel, 
beneath  a  beautiful  canopy  of  wide  spreading  elms,  whose 
branches  meet  lovingh'  over  your  head.  This  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  parts  of  the  drive,  and  these  grand  old  trees  furnish 
a  most  appreciable  shade  on  a  hot  summer's  day,  reminding 
one  of  Longfellow's  lines  : — 

"Or  where  the  denser  grove  receives 

No  sunlight  from  above, 
But  the  dark  foliage  interweaves 
In  one  unbroken  roof  of  leaves, 
Underneath  whose  sloping  eaves 

The  shadows  hardly  move." 

At  no  great  distance  from  this  leafy  avenue  you  bid  Sunday 
River  farewell,  crossing  it  by  a  covered  wooden  bridge.  I  have 
tried  several  times  to  trace  the  origin  of  the  name  "Sunday," 
as  applied  to  rivers,  ponds,  &c.,  in  this  section  of  the  country 


54  FARRAK'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

but  have  never  been  able  to.  Interviewing  some  of  the  old- 
est inlaabitants,  has  only  brought  forth  the  simple  answer : 
"  that  it  has  been  called  Sunday  River  ever  since  they  could 
remember." 

Three  miles  onward  you  reach  Bear  River,  and  cross  it  by 
another  covered  bridge,  also  a  wooden  structure.  It  is  a  trib- 
utary of  the  Androscoggin  and  to  the  right  you  see  it  join 
the  parent  stream  at  the  foot  of  a  flashing  rapid.  Across  the 
bridge  you  enter  the  town  of  Newry,  this  particular  part  of 
it  being  called  Xewry  Corner.  It  possesses  the  same  charac- 
teristics as  all  small  New  England  villages,  boasting  a  post- 
office,  store,  church,  aad  a  few  other  public  buildings,  and 
rejoices  in  a  few  hundred  inhabitants,  mostly  farmers.  At 
the  "Corner"  you  take  your  last  look  at  the  "big  river"  as  the 
lumbermen  term  it.  Passing  a  road  on  the  right  that  follows 
the  Androscoggin  to  Hanover  and  Rumford,  some  six  miles 
to  the  east,  the  horses  trot  through  the  village,  and  turning 
sharply  northward,  follow  up  Bear  River,  a  wild,  noisj*,  and 
circuitous  stream,  that  comes  tearaig  down  through  a  narrow 
and  picturesque  valley  as  if  anxious  to  complete  its  journey. 

It  was  of  a  similar  stream  that  Longfellow  wrote : — 

"I  heard  the  distant  ocean  call, 

Imploring  and  entreating; 
Drawn  onward,  o'er  this  roclcy  wall 
I  plunged,  and  the  loud  waterfall 

]Made  answer  to  the  greeting. 

"And  now,  beset  with  many  ills, 

A  toilsome  life  I  follow; 
Compelled  to  carry  from  the  hills 
These  logs  to  the  impatient  mills 

Below  there,  in  the  hollow." 

To  the  west  Sunday  River  White  Cap  towers  boldly  skyward, 
a  bare-topped  peak  of  commanding  presence. 

There  are  some  of  the  finest  landscape  views  between  Beth- 
el and  Newry  Corner  that  can  be  met  with  in  ijicturesque 
New  England  and  our  illustration  of  one  of  these  on  page 
44,  while  doing  credit  to  our  artist  and  engraver,  is  far  in- 
ferior to  the  reality. 

The  grade  to  Newry  Corner  has  been  mostly  down  hill,  but 


56  FARRARS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

as  j^ou  follow  up  the  narrow,  mountain-wuUed  valley  of  Bear 
River,  j'ou  commence  the  long  but  gradual  ascent  to  overcome 
the  height  of  land  between  the  Androscoggin  River  and  Um- 
bagog  Lake. 

For  the  next  five  miles  you  ride  amidst  thrift}^  and  well- 
cultivated  farms,  catching  frequent  glimpses  of  the  pictur- 
esque river  on  the  left,  that  winds  its  course  through  the 
fertile  intervales ;  at  times  a  long  distance  away,  and  then 
pursuing  you  closely,  as  if  trj'ing  to  destroy  the  road  over 
which  you  are  traveling.  The  mountains  on  either  side  and 
bej^ond  j^ou,  compel  their  share  of  attention ;  you  gaze  upon 
them  with  veneration,  and  wonder  how  you  will  ever  pierce 
those  that  hover  so  closely  about  the  Notch,  for  the  narrow 
pass  through  them  discloses  no  hint  of  its  existence  to  the 
most  lynx-eyed  observer.  Several  of  these  mountains  will 
compare  favorably  in  height  with  those  of  the  ^Vhite  Mount- 
ain range,  as  they  reach  an  altitude  of  nearly  five  thousand 
feet,  and  upon  their  bleak  summits  no  vegetation  but  mosses 
exist.  An  hour's  ride  from  ISTewrj^  Corner  brings  j'ou  to  the 
Poplar  Tavern,  a  small  hotel  standing  on  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  road,  eleven  miles  from  Bethel  Hill. 

The  scenery  at  this  place  begins  to  grow  wilder.  The 
mountains  appear  nearer  and  more  rugged.  The  road  still 
forces  its  way  through  the  narrow  vallej",  and  it  is  a  constant 
struggle  between  the  road  and  the  river  on  one  side,  and  the 
mountains  on  the  other,  as  to  which  shall  obtain  the  mastery. 
The  stream  here,  its  banks  being  overhung  by  graceful  trees, 
presents  a  most  picturesque  appearance,  it  being  a  swift 
torrent,  dashed  ^x»1th  flashing  rapids,  broken  by  numerous 
falls,  and  rushes  along  its  rocky  bed  as  if  impatient  of  re- 
straint. In  the  spring  when  melting  snows  swell  every 
mountain  stream,  and  in  the  fall  after  heavy  rains,  dangerous 
freshets  sometimes  occur. 

"The  grnce,  the  g-randeur,  the  wild  loveliness, 
And  stern  magnificence  of  water-fall ; 
Dark  chasm,  smooth  pool,  tall  tree  and  foamy  flash 
Of  rapids;  foliage  fresh  and  green,  and  curls 
Of  feathery  ferns." 

In  this  vicinity  to  the  right  of  the  road,    a   p,retty,   round- 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  57 

topped  peak,  known  as  Puzzle  Mountain,  rises  to  a  height  of 
several  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level.  It  is  easily  as- 
cended by  good  walkers,  and  commands  an  extensive  view  of 
the  surrounding  country.  The  puzzle  about  it,  I  have  been 
told,  is  to  get  to  the  top  without  walking.  A  short  distance 
beyond  the  hotel,  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  road,  on  the 
bank  of  Bear  River,  is  a  curious  specimen  of  Nature's  handi- 
work, known  as  the  "Devil's  Horseshoe."  It  is  an  impres- 
sion of  a  horseshoe,  perfect  in  form,  worn  deep  into  the 
solid  ledge.  It  is  immense  in  size  and  would  cover  the  head 
of  a  flour-barrel.  If  the  devil  ever  rode  a  horse  with  a  foot 
sufficient]}'  large  to  carry  a  shoe  the  size  of  the  impression 
in  the  rock,  the  beast  must  have  been  as  large  as  a  mastodon. 
Near  it  the  river  tumbles  over  a  succession  of  steps  in  its 
rocky  bed,  making  a  heavy  rapid  known  as  Ilorse-Shoe  Falls. 
Proceeding  onward,  the  dark  green  iDeaks  of  Mount  Saddle- 
back, direeth'-  ahead,  look  down  upon  you  in  majestic 
grandeur,  and  the  loftier  summit  of  Speckled  Mountain 
towers  far  above  you  to  the  west,  while  to  the  left  the  Bear 
River  White  Cap  rears  its  hoary  head  from  without  its  lower 
mantle  of  green,  a  stately  and  pleasing  peak  to  look  upon. 
Several  other  mountains  are  to  be  seen  from  this  locality, 
with  whose  names,  if  they  have  any,   we  are  not  familiar. 

"With  our  faint  heart  the  mountain  strives; 
Its  arms  outstretched,  the  Druid  wood 
Waits  Avith  its  benedicte." 

Bear  River  has  by  this  time  become  an  old  friend,  as  it  is  in 
sight  most  of  the  time.  About  three  miles  beyond  Poplar 
Tavern  you  reach  one  of  the  most  wonderful  curiosities  of 
nature  in  this  country,  known  as  "Screw  Auger  Falls,"  our 
illustration  on  page  46  giving  but  a  faint  idea  of  this  beau- 
tiful and  attractive  locality.  It  is  but  a  short  distance  from 
the  road,  on  the  left-hand  side,  and  well  worth  a  visit  and 
all  who  go  to  the  lakes  by  this  route  should  not  fail 
to  inspect  it.  If  this  charming  and  romantic  spot  was  near 
any  one  of  the  large  hotels  in  the  White  Mountain  region, 
it  would  be  a  fortune  to  them.  An  enormous  granite  ledge 
spreads    out   in    everj^    direction    for  several    rods   in    this 


58  1- AliiLVirS  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

part  of  the  vallcj' ;  through  this  the  stream  has  worn  a  large 
spiral  channel,  in  shape  not  unlike  a  largo  auger,  and  hence 
its  name.  This  canon,  as  one  may  appropriately  term  it,  is 
about  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  so  narrow  at  some 
points  that  one  can  leap  across  it.  But  take  our  advice  and 
don't  you  try  it.  Its  greatest  deptli  cannot  be  far  from  sev- 
enty feet,  and  the  sides  are  as  smooth  as  polished  marb3e. 
Through  the  rock  run  veins  of  v.hite  granite,  mingled  with 
other  minerals.  Quite  a  lot  of  loose  stone  lies  at  the  bottom 
of  the  chasm,  that  has  been  forced  from  the  overhanging 
cliiFs  by  the  continued  action  of  frost  and  water.  On  an 
angle  of  one  of  the  jutting  crags  below,  on  the  western  side 
of  the  canon,  can  be  traced  a  very  good  prolile.  Years  ago 
an  unsightly  mill  stood  over  the  chasm,  whose  wheel  was 
turned  by  the  cataract  falling  below,  but  in  some  luckj-  mo- 
ment fire  destroyed  this  unwarrantable  feature  of  the  land- 
scape. 

it  is  in  such  places  as  this  that  one  gets  some  idea  of  the 
vast  power  of  water;  and  it  must  have  taken  years,  if  not 
centuries,  to  do  the  work  that  is  still  going  on.  The  scientist 
and  geologist  will  here  find  food  for  reflection,  for  without 
doubt  this  stream  that  flows  through  this  vast  ledge  must 
have  been  much  larger  in  past  ages  than  now. 

"Down  o'er  the  solid  rock  the  torrent  foams, 
And  deeply  wearing  inward  toward  the  heart 
Of  Nature's  body,  leaves  an  open  scar 
That  only  time  can  heal.     The 
Flood  decreases  as  it  wears  its  way." 

Leaving  the  falls,  and  traveling  lakeward  for  a  few  rods, 
you  reach  another  show  piece,  close  beside  the  road,  on  the 
left  hand,  but  half-hidden  by  the  shrubbery,  known  locally 
as  the  "Jail,"  an  illustration  of  which  we  present  on  a  pre- 
ceding page.  It  is  an  abyss  in  the  shape  of  an  ampitheatre, 
the  sides  being  smooth  and  of  great  height ;  a  place  into 
which  one  can  fall  easilj',  but  from  which  they  would  find 
considerable  difficulty  to  get  out.  Formerly  the  river  run 
through  it,  wearing  this  great  cavitj',  but  it  has  now  made 
for  itself  a  new  channel  some  rods  to  the  westward.    On  the 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  59 


east  side  the  "Jail"'  is  so  close  to  the  road,  that  very  lazy- 
people  can  stand  up  in  their  vehicles  and  get  a  partial  view  of 
it.  About  a  mile  beyond,  you  reach  "Grafton  Notch,"  which 
is  fast  becoming  famous  among  the  New  England  mountain 
passes. 

A  short  distance  from  the  "Jail"  you  cross  Bear  River,  the 
stream  sweeping  to  the  right.  The  farms  in  this  vicinity  are 
poor,  compared  with  those  lower  down  the  valley,  and  are 
liable  to  damage  from  freshets,  Bear  River  being  a  terror 
when  at  its  flood.  In  this  vicinitj^,  by  careful  inspection,  you 
may  perceive  two  figures  on  the  precipitous  side  of  Speckled 
Mountain, — one  being  the  profile  of  a  man's  face  turned 
toward  the  sky,  as  it  would  appear  if  he  were  lying  flat  on  his 
back ;  the  other  is  that  of  an  old  woman  sitting  in  a  chair, 
facing  you.  While  it  may  require  a  slight  stretch  of  the 
imagination  to  see  these  figures  clearly,  they  are  a  great  deal 
plainer  than  many  similar  sights  that  I  have  had  pointed  out 
to  me  at  other  summer  resorts. 

As  you  enter  the  Notch  the  forest  sweeps  down  on  both 
sides  inclosing  you  in  its  leafy  bosom,  while  the  stream  mur- 
murs faintly  far  below  you  on  the  right.  You  are  hand  in 
hand  with  Nature,  and  are  completely  surrounded  by  the 
grand  old  woods,  and  your  view  for  several  miles  is  limited  to 
a  few  rods  of  the  beautiful  road  and  its  decorations  of  wild 
flowers,  forest  trees  and  mossy  rocks,  except  occasionally,  as 
you  make  a  sharp  turn,  a  bit  of  the  mountain  high  above 
your  head  is  discovered  for  a  moment,  and  is  then  obscured 
by  its  mantle  of  green. 

"Behold,  yon  breathing  prospect  bids  the  muse 
Throw  all  her  beauty  forth.     But  who  can  paint 
Like  Nature?    Can  imagination  boast, 
Amid  its  gay  creation,  hues  like  hers?" 

In  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Notch  you  find  Bear 
River  dwindled  to  a  noisy  brook  that  rushes  and  roars 
hoarsely  along  the  ravine.  It  is  a  succession  of  minature 
falls,  and  quiet  pools,  some  of  which  are  very  beautiful. 
The  road  crosses  the  stream,  that  through  the  Notch  turns  to 
every  point  of  the  compass  some  half-dozen  times,  over  bridges 


60  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

built  of  logs  and  plank,  with  a  j)rotecting  rail  along  the  sides. 
The  view  of  the  stream  at  some  of  these  bridges  is  charming, 
and  offers  fine  work  for  an  artist.  At  one  point  the  road 
passes  between  two  immense  boulders  called  the  "Twin 
Rocks,'-  there  being  just  room  for  one  team  to  drive  through. 

A  little  farther  on,  a  short  distance  from  the  road  to  the 
right,  is  another  wonderful  exhibition  of  the  wear  of  water 
through  solid  rock.  It  is  known  as  Moose  Cave,  and  derives 
its  name  from  the  fact  that  a  wounded  moose  once  took 
refuge  in  the  cavern  worn  by  the  struggling  waters.  As  a 
curiosity  it  is  a  worthy  companion  to  Screw  Auger  Falls.  It 
is  about  three  minutes'  walk  from  the  road  along  a  well- 
defined  path.  From  this  point  down  to  where  the  stream 
crosses  the  road,  the  river  bed  is  a  wild,  rockj^  flume,  and 
will  well  repaj'  one  for  looking  it  over  the  whole  distance. 
A  more  romantic  spot  I  have  seldom  seen,  and  in  some  places 
it  reminds  the  beholder  of  Watkins'  Glen. 

A  mile  bej^ond  the  cave  the  road  leaves  the  Notch,  dis- 
closing a  heavily-wooded  country,  with  mountains  in  all  di- 
rections. A  glance  backward  from  time  to  time  gives  you 
fine  views  of  the  mountains  you  have  just  left. 

The  side  of  Speckled  Mountain  next  the  Xotch  is  very  pre- 
cipitous and  in  some  places  overhangs.  There  have  been 
several  slides  on  this  side  of  the  mountain,  and  a  view  of  it 
in  riding  by,  suggests  the  idea  of  another  and  that  at  no  very 
distant  day.  A  wild  mountain  brook  tumbles  down  from  the 
summit  on  the  eastern  side,  and  is  in  sight  from  the  road. 
In  the  spring,  and  after  heavy  rains,  a  perfect  torrent  of 
water  fills  the  narrow  channel,  and  is  feather  white  from  toj) 
to  bottom.  This  silvery  stream  lined  on  both  sides  by  the 
dark  green  forest,  makes  a  beautiful  picture.  About  the 
easiest  way  one  can  ascend  the  mountain,  is  to  start  into  the 
woods  near  this  stream,  and  follow  it  up.  On  the  back  side 
of  the  mountain  is  a  small  pond  containing  trout.  The 
summit  of  Speckled  Mountain  is  about  live  hundred  feet 
higher  than  the  highest  peak  of  Saddleback,  or  Bald  Pate,  as 
it  is  sometimes  called.  Speckled  Mountain  is  a  hard 
mountain  to  climb,   but  if  you  can  reach  its  summit  on  a 


62  FAKRAR-S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


clear  day,  you  will  be  amply  repaid  for  your  toil,  as  there  is 
no  m(  am  tain  in  the  entire  lake  region,  that  will  afford  you  a 
bettei-  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  Bear  and  Cam- 
bridire  rivers  rise  in  the  northern  end  of  the  iSTotch,  ^^•ithin  a 
short  distance  of  each  other,  the  road  separating  them.  The 
former  flows  in  a  general  southerly  direction  to  the  Andro- 
scoggin, and  the  latter  north,  emptying  into  Lake  Umbagog. 
It  has  two  branches,  one  called  the  "Swift,"  and  the  other 
the  "Dead"  Cambridge. 

A  few  miles  from  the  Notch  you  pass  the  Grafton  Hotel 
and  post-oflice,  the  road  in  this  locality  for  a  mile  or  two 
being  as  level  as  a  floor.  Leaving  this  plain  you  ascend  a 
short  hill,  passing  on  the  right  an  old-fashioned  house,  once 
the  Union  Hotel,  but  now  the  home  of  a  thriving  and  ener- 
getic lumberman  by  the  name  of  BroMU.  Looking  back, 
after  passing  this  house,  you  obtain  by  far  the  most  lovely 
and  complete  view  of  Saddleback  and  Speckled  Mountains  to 
be  had  from  any  point  in  your  ride.  Continuing  on,  you 
climb  a  long  hill,  catching  glimpses  now  and  then  of  the 
mountains  that  surround  the  lakes,  and  finally  reach  a  high 
plateau,  from  which  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond,  you  catch 
the  first  glimpse  of  the  narrow  and  tortuous  lake.  As  you 
turn  to  the  west,  toward  Umbagog,  you  pass  on  the  right  a 
road  that  crosses  the  mountains  to  Andover,  a  distance  of 
fifteen  miles. 

"O'er  no  sweeter  lake 
Shall  morning  break  or  noon-cloud  sail, — 
No  fairer  face  than  thine  shall  take 
The  sunset's  golden  vail." 

A  short  distance  from  the  junction  of  the  roads  you  pass 
the  Upton  post-otfice  and  the  stores.  Continuing  straight  on 
to  the  left,  avoiding  the  right  hand  road  which  leads  down 
to  West's  saw  mill,  a  drive  of  a  trifle  over  a  mile  brings  you 
to  the  Lakeside,  a  new  hotel  charmingly  located  in  Cam- 
bridge, N.  IL,  at  the  foot  of  Umbagog  Lake.  Cambridge  is 
an  un-incorporated  township  in  Coos  County,  and  contains 
23,100  acres,  and  was  granted  May  19,  1773,  to  Nathaniel 
Rogers  and  others.    There  is  a  small  settlement,   stretching 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIX  LAKES.  G3 

for  half  a  mile  along  the  lake  shore,  containing  five  farms, 
one  of  these,  bordering  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Umba- 
gog,  is  owned  by  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation 
Company,  and  has  been  named  on  account  of  its  proximity  to 
the  lake,  "Lakeside,"  and  on  this  is  located  the  Lakeside  Hotel. 

This  lake  region  and  in  fact  the  whole  of  northern  New 
Hampshire  and  western  Maine  was  once  peopled  by  Indians, 
who  have  left  behind  them  remembrances  in  some  of  the 
names  jDcculiar  to  this  locality.  For  instance,  the  Andro- 
scoggin Eiver,  spoken  of  many  times  in  this  book,  was  for- 
merlj^  known  as  the  "Amariscoggin,"  undoubtedly  an  Indian 
name. 

"The  name  "Coos"  is  derived  from  the  Indian  w^ord  "Cohos," 
of  the  dialect  of  the  Ahernaquis,  a  confederacy  of  tribes  once 
inhabiting  New  Hami^shire,  western  Maine,  and  northerly  to 
the  St.  Lawrence  river.  The  Avord  is  further  derived  from 
"Coo-ash,"  signifjdugjjincs.  It  is  known  that  the  Indian  in- 
habitants of  a  section  w^ere  generally  entitled  by  some  name 
descriptive  thereof,  and  the  tribe  occupying  this  region  was 
known  as  the  "Coo-ash-aukes,"  or  Dwellers  in  the  Pine  Tree 
Country,  from  Coo-ash,  x)ines,  and  auJce,  j)lace.  This  title 
applied  especially  to  the  locality  and  inhabitants  north  of  the 
mountains  and  along  the  Connecticut  valley  above  Moosi- 
lauke. 

"The  Canadian  home  or  head  village  of  the  Coo-ash-aukes 
was  at  Abenaquis,  or  St.  Francis,  as  their  settlement  is  still 
called,  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  After  the  defeat  of  the  Pe- 
quaukets  by  Lovewell,  in  1725,  the  broken  remnant  of  that 
tribe  retired  to  St.  Francis ;  and  the  bands — invading  or  occu- 
pying our  present  territory — w^ere  more  frequently  known  as 
the  "St.  Francis  Indians,"  than  by  their  original  designations 
as  Abenaquis  or  Coo-ash-aukes. 

"Descendants  of  these  broken  tribes  still  live  in  the  village 
of  St.  Francis.  Among  those  who  returned  to  their  old 
hunting  grounds  in  New  Hampshire  w^ere  two  families  of 
distinction,  of  which  the  chiefs  were  known  as  "Captain 
Joe,"  and  "Captain  John."  They  were  very  active  in  pre- 
revolutionary  days,  and  both  took  part  with  the  colonists   in 


G4  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

that  struggle.  "OklJoe"  died  at  Newbury,  in  the  "Lower 
Cohos,"  in  1819,  and  is  buried  in  the  original  cemetery  of  the 
town  at  the  Ox  Bow.  Captain  John  led  a  small  party  of 
Indians,  enlisted  from  Cohos  and  vicinity,  and  received  a 
'captain's  commission.'  He  died  a  violent  death  after  peace 
had  been  restored,  and  was  also  buried  at  the  Lower  Cohos. 
He  was  known  among  the  Indians  as  Soosiip  or  Sussup,  and 
left  one  son  called  "Rial  Sussup," — "Rial"  being  the  Indian 
for  Rhilip.  There  is  some  reason  for  the  belief  that  the 
"Rial,"  son  and  heir  of  Captain  John,  an  original  Coo-ash- 
auke  chief,  who  went  from  the  Upper  Cohos  to  St.  Francis  or 
Abenaquis,  and  who  returned  to  aid  the  patriots,  with  a  small 
band  of  Cohos  Indians,  was  the  "Rhilip,  Indian  chief,  resi- 
dent in  Upper  Cohos  and  chief  thereof,"  who  gave  to  Thomas 
Eames  of  jSTorthumberland  the  now^  famous  deed  of  June  8, 
1796,  convening  to  him  and  his  associates  the  present  county 
of  Coos,  together  with  a  portion  of  the  county  of  Oxford  in 
Maine,  then  a  iDart  of  Massachusetts,  being  the  instrument 
known  as  the  "King  Rhilip  Deed." 

"While  it  is  a  source  of  regret  that  the  descriptive  and 
euphonious  nomenclature  of  the  aborigines  has  largely  dis- 
appeared from  the  hills  and  streams  of  their  hunting-grounds, 
it  is  a  source  of  pleasure  that  it  is  occasionally  retained, 
Whittier,  in  his  "Bridal  of  Renancook,"  having  embalmed 
in  imperishable  verse  several  of  the  ancient  designations, 
two  of  which  pertain  to  the  county  of  the  Coo-ash-aukes." 
He  says : 

"They  came  from  Sunapee's  shores  of  rock — 
From  the  snowy  source  of  Si-woo-ga-nock, 

From  rough  Coos,  whose  wild  woods  shake 
Their  pine  cones  in  Umbagog  Lake." 

Coos  County  is  the  largest  in  New  Hampshire,  and  contains 
about  1600  square  miles. 

The  Lakeside  Hotel  stands  on  a  terrace  on  the  left  side  of 
the  road,  facing  north,  directly  in  front  of  the  lake,  and  but 
a  short  distance  from  it.  Back  of  the  house  the  land  rises 
gradually,  until  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  the  hill  has  become 
a  mountain.    A  large  part  of  the  lake  is  seen  sweeping  away 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN   LAICES.  G5 

to  the  north-ward,  its  silvery  waters  entirely  surrounded  by 
high  mountains  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  forest.  In 
all  directions  the  view  is  fine ;  and,  standing  on  high  land  as 
the  hotel  does,  it  is  always  exposed  to  what  breeze  there  is  and 
is  cool  the  hottest  days  in  summer,  while  flies  and  mosquitoes 
for  the  same  reason,  are  seldom  troublesome  even  in  their 
season. 

The  Lakeside  was  built  new  during  the  spring  of  1883,  by 
the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Comi^any,  who  have 
also  erected  several  new  buildings  in  connection  with  the 
hotel  since.  It  has  a  home-like  office,  cosy  parlor,  pleasant 
dining-room  and  sleeping  rooms — all  overlooking  the  lake. 
There  are  large  and  handsome  open  fire  places  in  the  ofiice, 
dining-room  and  parlor.  Eoomy  piazzas  extend  around  the 
house,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  plenty  of  level  ground 
for  croquet,  or  lawn-tennis,  sets  for  both  games  being  kept 
at  the  hotel  for  the  use  of  guests.  The  house  is  well  fur- 
nished throughout,  and  the  parlor  contains  a  very  fine  piano, 
with  full  key-board.  Especial  care  has  been  given  to  the 
sleeping  rooms,  each  one  containing  the  best  spring  beds  and 
hair  mattresses  to  be  bought.  An  excellent  table  is  also  set 
at  this  house,  and  is  one  of  its  leading  features.  Row  boats 
may  be  hired  from  the  manager  of  the  hotel,  and  the  lake, 
but  a  few  rods  away,  ofiers  splendid  chances  for  boating. 
Beside  the  pickerel  and  trout  fishing  in  the  lake,  there  are 
some  of  the  finest  trout  streams  in  Maine  or  New  Hampshire 
near  the  hotel,  the  Molnichowoc,  one  of  the  best,  being  with- 
in easy  walking  distance.  The  roads  in  the  vicinity  are  ex- 
cellent, and  afford  beautiful  drives. 

From  the  top  of  Hampshire  Hill  back  of  the  hotel,  one  can 
obtain  fine  views  of  the  lake  to  the  north,  and  the  picturesque 
valley  between  the  mountains  and  Grafton  Notch  on  the 
south.  The  distance  to  the  summit  is  only  a  mile  and  a  half, 
the  greater  part  of  the  way  through  the  woods,  and  enables  one 
to  pass  half  a  day  very  pleasantly.  It  is  a  favorite  excursion 
with  most  of  the  hotel  guests.  The  steamer  Parmachenee 
lands  but  a  few  rods  from  the  hotel,  and  makes  daily  trips 
(excepting  Sundays)  on  the  lake,  during  the  entire  season  of 


^ri->^*-  "-'■<  \:.    "■•V. 


-^~i  ■''•;■  "■■<  '■-,  ■■•V 


*  ^  -  0     til  .- 


^ 


H     "~ — : 

1 


!?** 


••«^ 


■«^. 


^^Slftj*. 


Ay" 


Lakeside  Hotel. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAIvES.  07 

iiavigjition.    A  post-ofRce  has  been  established  in  the  house 
and  there  is  a  daily  mail  from  and  to  Boston. 

The  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Company's  first- 
class  stages  leave  for  Bethel  each  morning,  connecting  at 
Grand  Trunk  Eailway  depot  with  through  train  for  Boston. 
The  steamer  Parmachenee  leaves  her  wharf  each  mornino: 
for  "Wentworlh's  Location,  Magalloway  river,  stopping  on  her 
way  at  Sunday  Cove,  from  whence  teams  run  to  the  Middle 
Dam,  on  Lake  Welokennebaeook,  where  connection  is  made 
with  steamers  for  Lipper  Dam,  Bemis  Stream,  Haines'  Land- 
ing, Indian  Eock,  Rangele}',  and  Kennebago  Lake,  and  at 
Errol  Dam,  with  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation 
Comi^auy's  teams  for  Dixville  Notch.  At  Wentworth's  Lo- 
cation connection  is  made  with  teams  for  Aziscohos  Falls, 
connecting  there  with  the  new  steamer  Magalloway  for  the 
Narrows,  Lower  and  Upper  Metallak  Ponds,  Lincoln  Pond, 
Forks  of  the  Magalloway,  and  Parmachenee  Lake.  Tlie 
steamer  leaves  the  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  at  7.30  a.  m.  ;  return- 
ing, reaches  the  landing  at  5.30  p.  m.,  furnishing  to  guests 
of  the  house  one  of  the  most  delightful  sails  in  the  world. 

The  new  steamer  Aziscohos,  built  during  the  winter  of 
1888,  will  run  on  Umbagog  Lake  and  the  Magalloway,  as  an 
express  boat,  to  facilitate  travel  to  Parmachenee  Lake.  The 
new  steamer  will  run  direct  from  Lakeside  to  Mao-allowav 
every  morning,  enabling  fishermen  and  others  bound  for 
Parmachenee  Lake  to  leave  the  Lakeside  Hotel  after  break- 
fast, and  arrive  at  Camp  Caribou  the  same  evening  in  good 
season  for  supper. 

Fine  horses  and  first-class  teams,  with  competent  and  care- 
ful drivers  are  kept  at  the  hotel  and  may  be  hired  by  guests 
for  private  trips. 

Families  wishing  a  desirable  place  to  spend  the  summer 
months  can  scarcely  find  a  more  charming  spot  than  at  Lake- 
side. The  scenery,  the  walks,  the  drives,  the  boating,  can- 
not be  excelled  bv  anv  other  summer  resort  in  the  countrv, 
while  the  chances  for  fishing  and  hunting  at  the  proper  sea- 
son are  unlimited.  The  location  is  vcrv  healthv,  and  suffer- 
ers  from  hay  fever  and  kindred  complaints  find  innnediate 


G8  FAERAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

relief,  while  consumptive  invalids  who  are  not  too  low,  gen- 
erally derive  a  great  benefit  from  a  summer  at  the  Lakeside. 
A  farm  is  run  in  connection  with  the  hotel  and  supplies  fresh 
milk,  eggs,  butter,  vegetables,  and  poultry,  and  nearly  all 
the  beef,  lamb,  and  pork.  Berries  of  all  kinds  are  plenty  in 
the  immediate  vicinity,  and  the  table  is  sui^plied  with  them 
as  long  as  they  last. 

Good  guides  for  camping-out  or  fishing  trips,  will  be 
engaged  for  parties  by  the  manager  of  the  hotel.  Their  terms 
are  $2.50  per  day  and  board.  The  terms  at  the  Lakeside  are 
$2.00  per  day  or  §10.00  per  week,  and  parties  wishing  to 
engage  rooms  in  advance,  should  address.  Manager  Lakeside 
Hotel,  Lakeside  Post-Office,  Coos  County,  N.  H. 

Duck  shooting  in  the  fall,  at  the  lower  end  of  Umbagog 
Lake,  is  very  fine,  and  the  Lakeside  ofiers  convenient  and 
commodious  quarters  for  sportsmen  visiting  the  lake  in 
October  for  that  purpose.  Partridges  and  woodcock  are  also 
plentiful  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Lakeside  Hotel  and  the  open 
season  for  this  game  begins  September  1st. 

Lake  Umbagog  is  the  lower  in  the  chain  of  the  Androscog- 
gin Lakes,  and  consequently  the  farthest  south  and  wxst ;  it 
is  1,256  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The  Androscoggin  River  is 
an  outlet  to  this,  as  well  as  all  of  the  other  lakes. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


%tt^m  §nntknhr},t^  ^nkt  '^(mltngag.  la  lip  fUJihhlc 


itm* 


GOOD  night's  rest  at  the 
Lakeside,  and  you  will  be 
ready  in  the  inornino^,  after 
partaking  of  a  hearty  break- 
fast (for  one  is  alwaj^s  hun- 
gry in  this  country),  to 
proceed.  You  will  also 
find  it  to  your  adyanta2:e  to 
procure  a  guide  here  before 
starting,  for  whose  seryices 
you  pay  .$2.50  per  day  and 
board.  The  little  steamer 
•'Parmachenee"  is  at  your  seryice,  and  nothing  can  be  more 
delightful  on  a  pleasant  morning  than  a  sail  across  the  lake. 

You  em])ark,  the  whistle  is  sounded  to  hurry  up  the  lag- 
gards, the  fasts  are  cast  off,  and  with  the  pleasant  captain  at 
the  wheel,  the  boat,  with  its  jolly  company  of  sportsmen  and 
tourists,  leayes  the  wharf  in  Cambridge. 

Heading  north-west  at  first,  the  steamer  passes  B  Point  on 
the  right,  and  soon  afterwards  the  Big  Island  on  the  left. 
Should  she  continue  her  present  course,  she  would  bring  up 
in  Heywood's  cornfield ;  but  after  passing  Bear  Island  on  the 
right,  the  boat  makes  a  sharp  turn  toward  the  east,  heading 
for  Tyler  Coye.  A  short  run,  howeyer,  and  her  course  is 
again  changed,  her  bow  pointing  north  now,  and  running 
between  the  Narrows  on  the  left,  and  Metallak  Island  on  the 

right,  she  sweeps  by  the  mouth  of  the  beautiful  expanse   of 

00 


'  70  FAKRAll'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

water  known  as  Tyler  Cove.  At  the  head  of  this  cove  is  a 
fine  sand-beach  and  a  small  clearing,  the  remains  of  a  farm; 
there  is  a  good  spring  of  water  here,  and  plenty  of  berries 
in  their  season ;  it  is  also  one  of  the  best  places  in  the  lake 
for  trout,  and  camping  parties  often  pitch  their  tents  here  for 
a  few  daj's. 

The  reader  will  notice  that  quite  a  number  of  i^oints  in  the 
lake  region  are  named  for  ''Metallak,"  an  Indian  who  once 
lived  in  the  lake  country,  and  we  give  below  a  short  sketch 
of  his  life,  that  is  absolutely  true  in  all  essential  particulars. 

"Metallak  was  the  son  of  a  chief,  and  from  his  earliest 
youth  was  taught  the  use  of  weapons  and  the  craft  of  the 
woods.  He  grew  up  tall,  lithe,  and  active,  the  pride  of  his 
tribe;  and,  after  its  custom,  took  to  his  wigwam  the  fairest 
from  among  its  maidens.  He  built  his  lodge  in  the  old  home  of 
his  tribe,  the  Coo-ash-aukes,  on  the  waters  of  the  Amar- 
iscoggin ;  and  for  her  ransacked  the  woods  for  the  softest  furs 
and  the  choicest  game.  Two  children,  a  son  and  daughter, 
came  to  them  and  gave  to  the  parents'  hearts  the  joj-  that  is 
born  of  offspring.  Years  sped;  the  old  chief  by  the  St. 
Lawrence  died,  and  Metallak  was  the  head  of  his  tribe.  The 
frown  of  the  Great  Spirit  was  dark  upon  his  people.  One  by 
one  its  warriors  in  the  woods  sickened  and  passed  away. 
Metallak,  in  his  lodge  on  the  point  in  the  lake,  watched  and 
mourned  the  downfall  of  his  race ;  and  swift  runners  told 
him  how  the  stately  tree  of  his  tribe  was  stripped  of  its 
branches ;  but  his  mate  and  his  children  were  left  to  him, 
and  he  vowed  to  the  Great  Spirit  to  remain  on  the  hunting- 
grounds  cf  his  tribe  until  he  should  be  called  to  the  ha^^i^y 
hunting-grounds  of  his  fathers.  Gradually,  as  fall  the  leaves 
of  the  forest  when  the  winds  of  autumn  are  abroad,  fell  the 
once  mighty  Abenaquis,  mitil  Metallak  and  his  family  were 
alone. 

"The  son,  not  sharing  the  stern  feeling  of  the  sire,  as  he 
grew  older  sighed  for  the  society  cf  the  pale  faces,  and  left 
the  lodge  in  the  forest  to  find  a  home  with  the  new  compan- 
ions of  his  choice.  The  daughter  had  visited  at  St.  Francis, 
and  had  Joined  her  fate  with  a  young  warrior  of  the   tribe, 


o 


o 

H 

H 
W 
>■ 
Q 
O 
O 


oo 


'2  FAltKAll'S   ILLUSTRATED   GU1T)E   TO 


before  the  great  sickness  that  deciinated  them ;  and  he,  with 
the  English  goods,  easy  of  attainment,  had  robed  his  dusky 
bride  in  garments  that  a  white  M-omau  might  envy.  She  is 
represented  as  strikingly  beautiful,  and  when  she  visited  her 
father  in  the  wilderness  he  was  almost  awed  by  her  charms 
and  her  queenly  attire. 

•'About  this  time,  while  closing  a  moccasin,  Metallak  hiid 
the  misforture  to  lose  an  eye.  Time  sped.  The  bride  of  his 
youth  sickened  and  died,— a  sad  blow  for  the  desolate  chief. 
She  who  entered  his  lodge  when  youth  was  high  and  his  tribe 
had  a  place  in  the  land,  who  had,  with  him,  endured  long 
years  of  adversity,  was  called,  and  he  was  alone. 

"Mournfully  he  laid  the  body  in  his  canoe,  together  with 
the  trinkets  which  in  life  had  been  dear  to  her,  and  gliding 
out  from  the  sheltered  shore  took  his  way  across  the  narrow 
strait  and  down  its  course  to  the  broad  reach  of  Mole-chunk- 
a-munk,  past  the  whispering  pines  and  sunny  beaches,  guided 
by  the  roar  of  Amariscoggin,  where  he  shoots  his  crested 
waters  toward  the  more  quiet  expanse  of  Umbagog.  Enter- 
ing the  rapids  he  sat  erect  in  the  stern  of  his  canoe— his 
beloved  and  lost  companion  in  repose  before  him— and  with 
skillful  hand  guided  the  frail  bark  with  its  precious  burden 
through  the  seething  waters,  past  dangerous  rock  and  whirl- 
ing eddy,  until  it  shot  out  upon  the  sunlit  expanse  of  the 
lower  lake ;  still  down,  past  where  the  river  debouches  on  its 
way  to  the  sea,  to  where  in  the  broad  expanse,  rises  the  green 
island  that  now  bears  his  name.  Here  he  dug  her  grave  and 
buried  her,  after  the  fashion  of  his  people;  and  without  a 
tear  seated  himself  upon  the  mound.  Night  came,  but  he 
moved  not ;  the  wolf  howled  from  the  mainland,  the  song  of 
the  night-wind  was  on  the  air;  but  he  heeded  not;  morning 
came  and  passed ;  night  again  and  morning ;  and  still  he  sat 
upon  the  grave.  It  was  not  until  the  morning  of  the  third 
day  that  he  left  the  sacred  spot.  He  built  him  a  hut  near  it, 
leaving  it  only  to  i^rocure  necessary  sustenance. 

"Years  went  by,  during  which  he  was  occasionally  seen  by 
the  hunters  and  trappers  who  visited  the  region,  but  his  eye 
had  lost  its  fire,  and  his  step  was  less  firm  than  of  old.    In 


THE  ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  73 

the  year  1846  two  hunters  came  across  him  in  the  woods.  It 
was  in  November,  and  a  very  rainy  time.  He  had  fallen 
down,  and  upon  a  stub,  thus  extinguishing  the  remaining 
eye.  He  was  without  fire  or  food,  and  upon  the  point  of 
starvation.  They  built  a  fire,  collected  wood,  gave  him  pro- 
visions, and  left  him  for  assistance.  With  this  they  returned, 
and  carried  him  to  Stewartstown,  on  the  Connecticut,  where 
he  lingered  a  few  years,  a  public  charge  on  the  county  of 
Coos. 

*'He  now  rests  apart  from  the  wife  he  loved  so  well ;  but 
his  name  and  memory  linger  in  the  haunts  of  his  manhood ; 
and  reference  to  the  modern  hunting-grounds  of  Coos  would 
be  incomplete  without  the  story  of  Metallak — the  last  of  his 
race  within  our  j)resent  boundaries,  the  last  hunter  of  the 
ancient  Coo-ash-aukes." 

Beyond  Tyler  Cove,  the  steamer  i^asscs  B  Brook  Point  on 
the  right,  and  a  short  distance  farther,  on  the  same  side,  B 
Brook  Cove.  Into  the  head  of  this  cove,  empties  B  Brook, 
the  outlet  of  B  Pond,  and  around  the  inlet  some  trout  are 
taken. 

Continuing  on  a  northerly  course,  Moll's  Rock,  a  large, 
shelving  ledge,  sweeping  into  the  water,  is  the  next  object  of 
interest  passed.  This  is  on  the  left-hand  or  western  side  of 
the  lake.  Of  all  the  camping-grounds  around  the  lake  this 
is  the  greatest  favorite,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see 
three  or  four  tents  pitched  here  at  the  same  time.  There  is 
a  good  spring  of  water  near,  and  plenty  of  firewood,  and  the 
place  is  in  close  proximity  to  the  fishing  in  summer  and 
the  shooting  in  the  fall,  and  is  also  but  an  eighth  of  a  mile 
from  Moll's  Carr}^  a  short  cut  from  the  lake  to  the  Magallo- 
way  River. 

"Moll's  Carry"  was  named  after  Metallak's  wife;  it  was 
their  custom  to  use  this  cut-off"  when  going  from  the  lake 
into  the  river.  At  high  water  her  canoe  w^ould  float  across 
it,  and  when  the  water  was  low,  she  had  but  a  short  distance 
to  carry  it.  None  of  the  present  dams  were  built  in  the 
chain  of  lakes,  during  the  lifetime  of  Metallak  and  his 
squaw. 


74  FAERAK'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

Steaming  onward,  perhaps  for  a  mile  farther,  and  the 
outlet  of  the  lake  is  passed  on  the  left  side.  If  the  water  in 
the  lake  is  low,  you  can,  perhaps,  by  the  aid  of  the  captain, 
make  out  where  the  Androscoggin  River  begins ;  but  if  the 
lake  is  liigh  3-ou  can  discern  nothing,  as  then  the  river 
banks  are  six  feet  under  water,  and  it  would  ' 'puzzle  a  Phila- 
delphia lawyer,"'  unless  he  knew  the  exact  location, to  be  able 
to  find  in  the  submerged  forest  the  particular  point  where 
the  entrance  to  the  river  is  effected.  During  the  high  water 
the  steamer  on  her  trips  between  the  lake  and  the  Magallo- 
way  takes  a  short  cut  by  crossing  over  a  piece  of  submerged 
meadow-land,  known  when  out  of  water  as  the  Richardson 
Carry. 

Bej^ond  the  outlet  you  pass  Pine  Point,  a  rocky  headland 
on  the  right,  where  is  another  good  camping-ground,  and 
where  berries  are  thick  in  season ;  and  then  on  the  left,  a 
low,  grassy  point,  known  as  Moose  Point,  but  which  is  only 
visible  at  a  medium,  or  low  stage  of  the  lake.  Between 
Moose  Point  and  Pine  Point  is  the  best  place  to  view  the 
White  Mountains,  whose  lofty  summits  xjierce  the  clouds 
forty  miles  to  the  south-west. 

Above  Pine  Point  3'ou  reach  the  widest  part  of  the  lake, 
and  off  to  the  eastward  on  the  right-hand  side,  is  the  Inlet, 
where  the  Rapid  River  ends  its  wild  career.  On  the  south  side 
of  the  Inlet,  the  river  drivers  have  camped  for  many  years 
in  their  annual  pilgrimages  through  the  lakes,  and  it  is  a  very 
good  place  for  parties  visiting  the  lakes  to  camp,  as  wood 
and  water  are  near  and  plentiful.  There  is  also  good  trout 
and  land-locked  salmon  fishing  a  few  miles  up  the  river. 
The  outlook  from  this  camping  ground  is  very  prettj%  and 
it  is  a  favorite  with  many  of  the  tourists  who  leave  the 
Lakeside  for  a  few  days'  camping.  It  is  also  within  easy 
rowing  distance  of  the  deep  fishing  ground  at  the  head  of 
the  lake.  Crossing  this  broad  bay,  the  steamer  heading 
about  north-east,  you  pass,  at  some  distance  away,  Sturtevant 
Cove,  with  its  lovely  beach  of  sand;  then  a  picturesque, 
rocky  headland,  sweeping  up  almost  perpendicularly  from 
the  shore  to  a  height  of    thirty  feet.     In  front  of   this   and 


THE  AXDl^OSCOGGIN  LAKES.  75 

near  it,  is  the  deep  fishing-ground,  where  specimens  of  the 
Sahno  Fontinalis,  weighing  from  three  to  eight  pounds,  are 
taken  from  their  natural  element,  to  find  themselves  event- 
ually in  the  frying-pan,  or  the  baking-oven. 

At  the  entrance  of  Sunday  Cove  you  pass  Eagle  Point  on 
the  right,  with  its  attractive-looking  rocky  shore,  and,  fol- 
lowing along  the  right-hand  side  for  a  mile,  the  steamer 
reaches  the  Sundaj'-  Cove  landing,  where  connection  is  made 
with  a  two-horse  buckboard,  for  the  Middle  Dam  Camp, 
(Angler's  Retreat,)  five  miles  distant.  This  style  of  vehicle 
is  admirably  adapted  to  the  forest  road  between  the  lakes, 
and  will  carry  five  passengers,  beside  the  driver,  and  a 
large  amount  of  baggage.  The  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Transportation  Company  contemplate  building  a  light 
standard-gauge  steam  railroad  across  this  carry,  and  we  hope 
before  another  year  it  may  be  done. 

Lake  Umbagog  is  a  long,  narrow,  crooked  lake,  surround- 
ed for  the  most  part  by  dense  forests,  and  walled  in  by 
mountain  peaks  from  one  to  five  thousand  feet  in  height. 

"Long-  be  it  ere  the  tide  of  trade 

Shall  break  with  liarsh  resounding  din 
The  quiet  of  thy  banks  of  shade 

And  hills  that  fold  thee  in." 

The  distance  from  Cambridge  to  Sunday  Gove  is  twelve 
miles,  fare  $1.00;  and  during  the  trip,  if  the  weather  is  clear, 
a  very  fine  view  of  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  maj^  be  had. 

The  view  of  the  White  Mountains  from  Umbagog  far  ex- 
cels that  from  anj'^  other  point  in  the  lake  region,  and  the 
three  highest  peaks,  Wasliington,  Jefferson^  and  Adams^  are 
visible  more  than  half-way  to  their  base.  Other  prominent 
peaks  seen  between  Cambridge  and  Sunday  Cove  from  the 
steamer  are  Saddleback  and  Speckled  Mountains,  between 
which  you  have  passed  on  your  ride  from  Bethel,  the  Hamp- 
shire Hills,  Mount  Sawyer,  Mount  Blue,  Errol  Hill,  Moose 
Mountain,  Mount  Dustan,  and  Aziscohos,  the  last  the  highest 
mountain  in  the  lake  region. 

During  the  months  of  September  and  October  the  Imnting 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN'  LAKES. 


/  / 


is  excellent  about  the  shores  of  Lake  Umbagog,  and  also  on 
the  adjacent  rivers.  Ducks  of  several  varieties,  ''yellow- 
legs,"  partridges,  quail,  woodcock,  rabbits,  deer,  bears,  foxes, 
otters,  musk-rats,  and  other  anhnals,  are  plentj',  and  are  shot 
in  large  numbers.  Caribou  and  moose,  while  not  so  common 
as  deer,  are  also  occasionally  seen. 

Leaving  the  steamer,  you  take  a  seat  on  the  buckboard, 
w^hich  runs  daily,  excepting  Sunday,  between  Lake  Umbagog 
and  the  Middle  Dam.  The  fare  is  $1.00,  or  you  can  walk, 
and  pay  for  having  your  baggage  hauled  at  the  rate  of  75 
cents  per  100  lbs.    Most  people,  however,  prefer  to  ride. 

The  road  from  lake  to  lake  runs  through  the  woods  the 
entire  distance,  and  is  very  pleasant.  In  some  places  it  lies 
near  the  river,  giving  beautiful  views  of  rapids  and  falls. 
About  three  miles  from  Sunday  Cove  j'ou  pass  on  the  right  an 
attractive  two-story-and-a-half  building,  the  camp  of  the 
Oxford  Club.  It  is  prettily  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 
The  stream  furnishes  good  fishing,  as  does  also  B  Pond,  a 
mile  and  a  half  distant,  from  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river. 
Opposite  this  camp  is  a  peculiar  bridge,  if  we  may  so  call  it. 
A  wire  rope  is  stretched  across  the  river,  which  at  this  point 
is  very  rapid,  from  a  high  tree  on  either  bank.  Attached  to 
the  cable  is  a  loose  pulley,  and  from  this  hangs  a  swinging 
seat,  which  is  worked  back  and  forth  by  the  person  who 
wishes  to  cross.  A  person  at  all  inclined  to  dizziness  finds 
hip  first  trip  across  the  river  by  means  of  this  cable  anything 
but  pleasant.  But  one  soon  gets  accustomed  to  the  novelty 
of  this  means  of  transportation. 

A  short  distance  beyond  the  club  camp,  on  the  same  side 
of  the  road,  is  a  smaller  camp,  known  as  Forest  Lodge, 
which  has  been  deserted  by  the  owners  for  a  number  of  years 
and  is  fast  going  to  decay.  A  few  minutes'  ride  from  this 
point,  and  you  catch  a  glimpse  on  your  right  of  a  large  pond 
— an  expansion  of  the  river.  In  this  vicijiity  the  lumbermen, 
when  driving  logs,  set  up  their  "wangun,"  and  the  spot  has 
been  known  for  years  as  a  "driver's"  camping-ground.  A 
mile  and  a  half  from  here,  the  first  glimpse  of  the  lake  is 
caught  through  the  trees  on  your  right,  and  a  moment  later, 


! 


78  FARHAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

the  team  reaches  the  elearhig,  and  draws  up  at  the  New 
Middle  Dam  Camp ;  the  Avord  "New"  being  used  to  distin- 
guish it  from  the  old  camp  which  stood  nearer  the  dam ; 
after  the  Union  Water  Power  Company  took  control  of  the 
dams,  the  old  camp  was  destroyed.  The  new  camp  is  a 
great  improvement  over  the  old  one  in  all  respects,  and  its 
accommodations  are  more  than  doubled.  It  is  situated  a 
short  distance  north  of  the  old  camp,  and  stands  fronting  the 
lake,  which  is  but  a  few  rods  from  the  house.  The  building 
is  two  and  a  half  stories  high,  with  pitch  roof,  and  has  a 
piazza  in  front  and  on  each  end.  The  view  from  the  front 
piazza  is  very  fine,  nearly  the  whole  of  the  lower  lake  being 
in  sight,  beside  quite  a  number  of  mountains. 

The  house  contains  a  large  and  spacious  ofiice,  a  commodi- 
ous dining-room,  kitchen,  j)autry,  wash-room,  twenty  sleep- 
ing-rooms, and  a  ladies'  sitting-room,  besides  several  other 
rooms  for  various  purposes.  All  the  sleeping-rooms,  and 
the  hall  in  the  second  story,  are  lathed  and  plastered. 

The  New  Middle  Dam  Camp  has  already  .become  a  favorite 
stopping-iDlace  with  the  ladies,  not  only  on  account  of  its 
superior  accommodations  and  beautiful  location,  but  also  for 
its  nearness  to  the  fishing  ground,  and  the  facilities  offered 
for  walking,  boating,  and  bathing. 

The  steamers  Welokennebacook  or  Molechunkamuuk  make 
two  trips  daily  between  the  South  Arm  and  the  Upper  Dam, 
stopping  each  day  at  the  Middle  Dam,  thus  giving  those  who 
stoj)  at  the  new  hotel  a  chance  to  visit  the  Upper  Dam  in  the 
morning,  have  a  day's  fishing,  take  dinner,  and  return  to  the 
Middle  Dam  late  in  the  afternoon. 

The  proprietor  of  the  Middle  Dam  Camp  will  furnish  boats 
and  guides  at  regular  prices  to  all  mIio  need  them,  and  will 
also  supply  camping  parties  with  provisions  and  other  outfits 
if  desired.  An  excellent  table  has  always  been  set  here,  and 
the  cuisine  will  compare  favorably  with  more  pretentious 
hotels.  A  post-oflice  is  established  in  the  house  during  the 
season,  and  parties  wishing  to  engage  rooms  in  advance 
should  address  "Proprietor  Middle  Dam  Camp,"  Middle  Dam, 
Oxford  Co.,  Maine,  via  Bethel. 


TIIE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES. 


Arrived  at  the  eauip  you  will  liud  a  iiiiiuber  of  fisliermeu 
and  tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  who  are  generally 
first-rate  fellows,  and  with  whom  j'ou  will  soon  find  yourself 
on  terms  of  friendly  intimacy.  No  man  is  better  than  his 
neighbor  here,  and  it  is  "hail  fellow,  well  met,"  with  every- 
body. There  is  nothing  like  life  in  the  woods  to  take  the 
foolish  airs  out  of  a  man. 

If  you  are  an  enthusiastic  fisherman,  you  will  be  anxious 
to  have  a  try  at  the  trout  before  dinner,  and,  accompanied  by 
your  guide,  with  rod  and  landing-net,  flies,  and  worms, — 
now  don't  turn  up  j'our  nose  at  the  word  "worms,''  my 
scientific  flv-cast^r,  for  a  trout  will  often  bite  at  a  worm 
when  he  will  wink  all  day  at  a  fly  and  never  rise  to  it  (trout 
have  their  fancies,  jon  know), — you  walk  out  to  the  dam  and 
secure  an  eligible  place  for  fishing. 

The  Middle  Dam,  entirely  rebuilt,  and  raised  eight  feet 
during  the  fall  and  winter  of  1880,  holds  back  the  waters  of 
Molechunkamuuk  and  "VVelokennebacook  Lakes.  Welokenne- 
bacook  is  second  in  the  chain,  starting  from  Cambridge.  It 
is  1,456  feet  above  the  sea  level. 

Among  the  good  places  for  fishing  to  which  parties  resort 
when  making  their  headquarters  at  the  Angler's  Eetreat,  as 
the  camp  is  called,  are  the  Dam,  situated  a  few  rods  south 
of  the  house ;  the  Pond  in  the  Eiver,  half  a  mile  from  the 
house;  Smooth  Ledge,  three  miles  distant,  where  you  can 
obtain  one  of  the  finest  views  to  be  seen  on  the  river ;  the 
Hop  Yard,  three  and  a  half  miles  from  the  house ;  and  the 
Cold  Spring,  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the  camp,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river. 

With  all  these  and  other  places,  your  guide  will  be  familiar, 
and  will  tell  you  the  best  time  of  day  to  visit  each  place. 

The  early  spring  fishing  all  through  this  region  is  done 
with  bait,  the  trout  not  beginning  to  rise  to  a  fly  on  an 
average,  before  the  middle  of  June,  and  the  time  will  vary 
a  little,  earlier  or  later,  according  to  the  weather,  and  the 
temperature  of  the  water. 

Before  the  trout  begin  to  rise  the  favorite  method  of  taking 
them  is  by  "trolling,"'  and  live  bait,  (small  minnows)  is  best 


80  FAiaJAE'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

for  this  purpose.  These  iniimows  are  taken  with  dip  nets, 
and  are  found  in  schools  alonsj  the  shore,  around  the  dams, 
and  at  the  mouth  of  small  brooks. 

In  trolling,  a  person  to  row  the  boat  is  absolutely  neces- 
sarj^,  and  therefore  a  guide  had  better  always  be  engaged 
during  the  trolling  season.  Deep  fishing,  with  worms  for 
bait,  is  also  resorted  to  by  many  fishermen  in  the  spring,  and 
is  productive  of  good  results. 

Between  Lake  Welokennebacook  and  Lake  Umbagos:  flows 
the  Rapid  River,  or  Five-Mile  Falls,  as  the  loggers  term  it, 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  streams  in  Maine,  and  from  the 
bank  of  the  river,  near  Forest  Lodge,  it  appears  to  its  best 
advantage.  Here  you  may  stand  and  drink  in  the  wild  beauty 
of  the  scene,  while 

"Far  down,  through  the  mist  of  the  falling  river, 
Which  rises  up  like  an  incense  ever, 
The  splintered  points  of  the  crags  are  seen, 
With  water  howling  and  vexed  between. 
While  the  scooping  whn-1  of  the  pool  beneath 
Seems  an  open  throat,  with  its  granite  teeth !" 

The  great  ISTorthern  Diver,  or  Loon,  as  the  bird  is  common- 
ly called,  is  a  yearly  habitue  of  this  and  the  other  lakes. 
Speaking  of  loons,  Theodore  \yinthrop  says,  "Xo  being  has 
ever  shot  a  loon,  though  several  have  legends  of  some  one 
who  has.  Sound  has  no  power  to  express  a  iDrofounder 
emotion  of  utter  loneliness  than  the  loon's  cry.  Standing  in 
piny  darkness  on  the  lake's  bank,  or  floating  in  dimness  of 
mist  or  glimmer  of  twilight  on  its  surface,  you  hear  this 
wailing  note,  and  all  possibility  of  human  tenancy  by  the 
shore  or  human  voj^aging  is  annihilated.  You  can  fancy  no 
response  to  this  signal  of  solitude  disturbed,  and  again  it 
comes  sadly  over  the  water,  the  despairing  x^laint  of  some 
companionless  and  incomplete  existence,  exiled  from  hax)pi- 
ness  it  has  never  known,  and  conscious  only  of  blank  and 
utter  want.  Loon-skins  have  a  commercial  value;  so  it  is 
reported.  The  Barabinzians  of  Siberia,  a  nation  'up  beyond 
the  River  Ob,'  tan  them  into  water-proof  paletots  or  aquas- 
cutums.    How  they  catch  their  loon,  before  they  skin  their 


THE  AKDEOSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  81 

loon,  is  one  of  the  things  yet  to  be  revealed  about  that  un- 
known and  incomprehensible  realm." 

In  spite  of  Winthrop's  statement,  however,  I  have  known 
of  a  number  of  loons  being  shot  in  the  lake  region.  I  once 
saw  one  shot  on  Lake  Umbagog,  from  the  steamer  Diamond, 
by  one  of  the  lake  guides.  It  was  killed  instantly  at  the 
fourth  fire  by  a  rifle-ball.  The  steamer  was  stopped  and  the 
man  rowed  ofi"  and  picked  up  the  bird,  and  brought  it  back  to 
the  boat.  On  examination  it  was  found  that  the  ball  went 
directly  through  its  head.  A  large  fish-hook  was  found  in 
its  mouth  just  back  of  its  bill,  showing  that  some  time  or 
other  the  loon  had  been  fishing.  The  hook  was  rusty  and  had 
the  appearance  of  having  been  in  the  bird's  mouth  a  long  time. 
The  loon  was  given  to  a  Boston  gentleman,  who  forwarded 
it  to  the  city  to  have  it  proiDcrly  preserved.  The  plumage  of 
these  birds  is  very  handsome,  the  feathers  being  thick  and 
close.  Their  color  is  pure  white  on  the  breast,  and  mottled 
green  and  black  on  the  neck.  Their  wings  are  speckled  black 
and  white.  A  person  must  be  careful  in  capturing  one  when 
it  is  only  wounded ;  for  a  loon  is  a  very  powerful  bird,  and 
will  fight  as  long  as  it  can  breathe.  They  will  give  a  tremen- 
dous bite  with  their  bill,  and  the  safest  way  to  handle  one  is 
to  get  a  firm  hold  of  his  neck,  near  his  head.  This  is  like 
putting  salt  on  a  pigeon's  tail ;  but  then,  if  you  don't  succeed 
in  doing  it,  you  need  not  tell  anybody  of  it. 

Capt.  Smith,  A.  E.  Eowell,  J.  H.  Ehodes,  and  several 
others  that  I  might  mention,  have  also  shot  loons  on  the 
Androscoggin  Lakes  within  the  past  few  years.  Thomas 
Stearns,  a  young  gentleman  from  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  caught  a 
young  loon  alive,  on  the  large  Richardson  Pond  one  night  while 
out  floating  for  deer.  But  the  queerest  loon  incident  I  ever 
heard  or  knew  of  happened  at  Lake  Molechunkamunk  a  few 
summers  ago.  At  the  time  there  was  a  camping-out  party 
tenting  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  One  morning,  one  of 
the  number,  who  couldn't  hit  a  barn-door  five  rods  distant, 
was  amusing  himself  on  the  lake  shore  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  with  a  rifle,  by  skipping  bullets  across  the  water.  A 
loon  was  swimming  about  the  lake,  five  or  six  hundred  yards 


b2 


FAKEAirS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 


from  the  shore.  Suddenly  the  loon  dived,  and  while  he  was 
under  water,  the  marksman  sent  another  l)ullet  skipping 
aeross  the  lake,  which  was  as  smooth  as  a  mirror.  The  bullet 
struck  the  water  a  hundred  yards  from  shore,  ricochetting 
two  or  three  times,  and  at  a  distance  of  about  five  hundred 
yards  A\ent  directly  through  the  neck  of  the  loon,  who^Dopped 
up  his  head  just  in  time  to  meet  his  fate,  killing  him  instantly. 
I  consider  this  about  the  luckiest  chance  shot  on  record,  and 
the  story  is  well  authenticated  by  several  eye-witnesses,  ^\ho 
saw  him  shot  and  examined  rhe  loon  after  he  was  brought  on 
shore. 

The  Bethel  and  Lake  Umbagog  Route  properly  ends  at  the 
Middle  Dam,  as  from  there  one  can  take  the  steamers,  which 
call  twice  a  day,  and  go  on  up  or  down  the  lake  as  they  see 
tit.  The  lakes  and  country  above  will  be  described  in  their 
proi)er  places. 


CHAPTEK  V. 


1§£  lri|Hur$  J^unit  nnh  ^nitnun:  \mit. 


FEOM  BOSTOX  TO  AXDOVEE,   MAINE. 


pgi»ii| 


*:>* 


HIS  route  is  one  of  the  shortest  and  most 
direct  api^roaehes  to  the  lakes.  You  may 
go  f]'om  Boston  to  Portland  b}'  either  way, 
as  described  in  Chapter  III.,  then  take  the 
Grand  Trunk  Eailwav  for  Bryant's  Pond, 
which  place  you  reach  at  4.15  P.  m. 
Alighting  f;-om  the  cars,  you  tind  await- 
ing you  at  the  depot  one  of  Tuttle's  four-horse  first-class 
Concord  coaches,  by  which  you  take  passage  for  Andover, 
21  miles  distant. 

Those  wishing  to  ^top  in  Bryant's  Pond  for  a  few  daj^s, 
and  try  the  black  bass  fishing  in  the  pond  near  the  railroad 
station,  will  find  excellent  acconnuodation  at  the  Glen 
Mountain  House,  directly  opposite  the  depot.  Ansel  Dudley 
is  the  present  prox)rietor,  and  under  his  management  the 
house  is  kept  better  than  it  has  been  for  j-ears  before.  The 
rooms  are  neat  and  clean,  provided  with  good  matresses  and 
spring  beds,  and  the  ^able  is  well  furnished.  The  terms  are 
§2.00  i^er  day,  with  reduction  by  the  week. 

The  Andover  Stage  Line  has  been  ver}^  much  improved  for 
the  present  season.  A  fine  new  Concord  coach,  and  several 
private  carriages,  and  six  heavy  horses,  have  been  added  to 
the  i^ropert}-,  making  this  one  of  the  best-equipped  stage 
lines  in  the  State.  With  two  Concord  coaches,  a  number  of 
smaller  vehicles,  and  plenty  of  good  horses,  the  company 
are  prepared  to  transport  a  large  number  of  passengers  this 
summer,  with  safety  and  despatch. 
If  the  daj^  is  pleasant  don't  fail  to  procure  an  outside   seat, 


84  FAEEARS  ILLUSTExiTED   GUIDE  TO 


if  you  can  get  one,  for  the  ride  is  lovely,  and  during  the 
months  of  June,  July,  and  August  you  will  reach  Andover 
before 

"Darkness  casts  her  sable  mantle  down." 

What  is  more  exhilarating  than  a  ride  on  top  of  an  old- 
fashioned  stage-coach,  drawn  by  four  spirited  horses,  and 
managed  by  a  good-natured  driver,  surrounded  as  you  are 
by  an  agreeable  coterie  of  companions?  The  sweet-scented 
aromas  of  field  and  forest  wafted  in  your  face ;  the  dust 
rolling  in  clouds  behind  you,  like  the  smoke  of  a  locomotive ; 
the  rattle  of  the  wheels ;  the  bounce  over  some  inequality  in 
the  road ;  the  dash  on  a  down  grade,  and  the  wild  gallop  up 
the  next  hill;  the  excitement  of  passing  some  old  farm 
wagon  in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  road;  the  shouting, 
laughing,  and  joking  of  those  around  you;  the  "Ahs!"  and 
the  "Ohs!"  that  are  safety-valves  to  your  wrought  up 
feelings,— all  combined  make  the  trip  an  oasis  in  the  desert 
of  life,  an  ever  welcome,  and  never-forgotten  memory  of 
"that  summer's  vacation  in  Maine." 

You  will  find  George  Tuttle,  or  jMi\  Ford  good  whips 
and  pleasant  companions,  as  they  keep  in  stock  a  vast 
number  of  entertaining  stories,  which  they  are  not  at  all 
backward  in  relating.  For  a  first-class  story-teller  commend 
me  to  a  New  England  stage-driver. 

The  road  turns  to  the  north-west,  and  M-e  drive  through 
the  neat  little  village  of  Bryant's  Pond,— a  part  of  the  town 
of  Woodstock;  a  beautiful  landscape  unrolls  before  us,  and 
just  at  the  right  time  of  day  to  appreciate  all  of  its  wonder- 
ful beauties.  The  road  is  hard  and  level;  but  few  tiresome 
hills  for  the  horses  to  climb,  it  following  the  valleys  of 
the  Androscoggin  and  Ellis  Rivers  nearly  the  entire  dis- 
tance, and  you  are  consequently  at  ease  to  enjoy  the 
scenery. 

Close  to  the  road  are  the  fertile  meadows  of  the  intervale, 
while  in  the  distance  mountain  after  mountain  appears,  some 
bold  and  striking,  and  others  soft  and  gentle,  in  their  outline. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN"  LAKES.  85 

You  will  be  pleased  with  the  neat  appearance  and  thrifty- 
aspect  of  the  farms  along  the  road,  and  many  of  the  houses 
are  superior  to  those  usually  found  in  a  farming  country. 

Two  miles  distant  from  Bryant's  Pond  is  the  village  of 
"Pin  Hook,"  and  we  stop  at  the  local  i)ost-office  a  moment 
for  the  delivery  of  the  mail.  Continuing  on,  the  stage 
crosses  a  mill-stream,  spanned  by  a  little  wooden  bridge,  the 
road  now  bearing  slightly  to  the  left. 

One  of  the  legends  of  this  locality  is,  that  the  village  de- 
rived its  name  from  the  fact  that  an  old  chap,  when  the  place 
was  first  settled,  used  to  fish  from  this  bridge,  and  catch 
trout  from  the  stream  with  a  pin-hook,  before  fancy  flies  and 
six-ounce  rods  were  thought  of. 

If  the  afternoon  is  pleasant  you  will  get  a  beautiful  sunset 
during  this  ride,  the  road  commanding  a  grand  and  j)ict- 
uresque  view  of  mountain  ranges  nearly  the  entire  distance, 
and  when  the  God  of  Day  slowly  vanishes  behind  some  lofty 
I)eak,  tinging  the  light  clouds  which  float  lazily  in  the  sky 
with  a  golden,  dreamy  light,  and  throwing  shadows  from 
base  to  summit  of  the  noble  old  hills  by  which  you  are  sur- 
rounded, you  may  perhaps  wonder  that  people  should  visit 
the  Old  World  to  view  scenery,  when  that  in  the  New  is 
unsurpassed. 

Occasionally  you  pass  over  some  rustic  bridge,  spanning 
a  small  stream  that  crosses  the  road,  its  sparkling  waters  and 
bright  sands  suggestive  of  trout,  and  the  murmur  of  whose 
gentle  ripple,  borne  to  your  ear  in  the  quiet  air  of  evening, 
sounds  like  the  soft  strains  of  ^olian  music. 

Before  reaching  Milford  Plantation,  the  road  runs  for 
several  rods  along  a  high  ridge,  which  is  known  by  the  local 
sobriquet  of  the  Whale's  Back.  It  is  formed  of  sand  and 
gravel,  and  is  just  wide  enough  on  top  for  a  road;  it  sets  in 
a  level  plain,  some  eight}''  feet  above  the  other  land,  its  sides 
being  steep  and  precipitous,  and  is  a  queer  freak  of  nature. 

The  next  post-ofiice  at  which  the  stage  calls  is  in  the  small 
and  compact  village  of  Milton,  in  Milton  Plantation,  the 
communitj'  being  too  small  to  be  entitled  to  a  town  organiza- 
tion.    The  business  part  of  this  hamlet  consists  of   a  small 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIO^S.  87 

but  well-kept  hotel,  one  or  two  small  manufactories,  a  store, 
and  a  steam-mill,  which  although  it  has  been  burned  several 
times,  continues  to  rise  Phoenix  like  from  its  ashes.  At  this 
mill  clothes-pins,  broom  and  mop  handles,  pail  handles,  salt 
boxes,  and  other  light  wooden  articles  are  manufactured. 
It  is  a  valuable  industry  for  the  village,  and  gives  employ- 
ment to  quite  a  number  of  people,  while  furnishing  a  good 
market  for  a  large  amount  of  white  birch  and  poplar,  which 
is  furnished  the  manufacturers  by  the  farmers  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  and  surrounding  country.  The  houses  in  the 
village  are  small  and  neat,  and  give  evidence  of  thrift  in 
their  tenants. 

Just  before  reaching  the  village  of  Rumford  you  pass  a 
road  on  your  right  that  leads  to  Mexico  and  Dixfield,  and 
passengers  for  j)oints  "down  the  river"  change  stages  at 
this  corner.  The  celebrated  Rumford  Falls  on  the  Andro- 
scoggin are  six  miles  below  the  cross  roads. 

About  half-i)ast  five  you  reach  the  Rumford  Hotel,  where 
horses  and  drivers  are  changed,  and  where  you  procure 
supper.  The  charge  is  fifty  cents  each,  and  they  give  you  a 
very  good  meal  for  your  money,  and,  after  your  ride,  j'ou 
have  the  appetite  to  ai;)i)reciate  it. 

About  three-quarters  of  an  hour  is  spent  for  supper  and 
change  of  team,  and  then  you  climb  aboard  the  stage,  the 
driver  snaps  his  whip,  and  away  you  rattle  down  the  slight 
declivity  that  leads  to  the  ferry  over  the  Androscoggin  River. 

Here  you  will  probably  meet  with  a  new  experience,  as 
the  river  is  crossed  by  means  of  a  rope  ferry,  very  few^  of 
which  are  to  be  seen  in  the  North.  Our  artist  has  given  us 
a  good  illustration  of  this  peculiar  kind  of  navigation. 

On  each  side  of  the  river  are  a  high  post  and  ladder,  some- 
thing like  those  on  a  pile  driver.  A  heavy  hemp  cable  is 
stretched  across  the  river  from  the  top  of  these  two  posts. 
The  ferry-boat,  which  is  simply  a  common  flat-boat  decked 
over,  is  fastened  to  the  cable  by  two  smaller  ropes,  one  at 
each  end  of  the  boat.  At  the  end  of  the  smaller  cables  are 
grooved  blocks  containing  a  wheel,  so  that  they  will  travel 
back  and  forth  along  the  large  cable.    The  boat  is  on  the 


88  FAlfRAK'S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 

lower  side  of  the  cable,  and  is  propelled  entirely  by  the 
current.  The  boat  is  so  shallow  at  each  end  that  it  is 
run  close  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  teams  drive  off 
without  any  difficulty. 

Crossing  the  river,  the  stage  is  driven  up  a  little  ascent 
to  the  post-offlce  known  as  Rumf ord  Point,  where  the  mail 
is  changed  and  express  matter  left,  and  then  away  you  go 
again. 

You  are  now  at  quite  a  height  above  the  river,  and  have  a 
pretty  view  of  the  stream,  where  the  Ellis  empties  into  it. 
A  few  rods  beyond,  the  road  divides,  one  branch  running  to 
Audover  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  The  stage  follows  the 
left-hand,  or  western  side,  which  is  the  best  road,  and  you 
cross  the  Ellis  Eiver  over  a  covered  bridge,  obtaining  a  view, 
almost  a  mile  away,  of  a  picturesque-looking  cliff,  on  the 
left  side  of  the  road,  in  which  a  horse's  head  is  formed  by  a 
vein  of  white  rock.  It  reminds  one  of  the  ""White  Horse" 
in  North  Conway. 

From  the  western  end  of  the  bridge,  a  road  follows  up  the 
Androscoggin  to  Hanover  and  Newry  Corner.  You  lose 
sight  of  the  larger  river  here,  as  the  rest  of  the  distance  you 
follow  the  Ellis  River,  which  is  off  to  your  right  and  is 
scarcely  ever  out  of  sight,  as  it  twists  and  turns  among  the 
beautiful  meadows,  which  are  a  charming  feature  of  the 
landscape  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  intervale  lands 
here  are  broad  and  level  and  form  a  marked  contrast  to  the 
lofty  hills  surrounding  them. 

Away  to  the  left  may  be  seen  the  Lead  Mountain,  with  its 
buildings  on  top.  and  many  other  peaks  in  that  vicinity ;  the 
mines  here  were  worked  for  several  years,  but  were  finally 
given  up,  from  the  difficulty  in  getting  the  product  down  the 
mountain  and  to  market. 

Far  away  to  the  right  "White  Cap  rears  its  huge  summit  to 
the  sky,  and  from  its  top  on  a  clear  day  it  is  said  that  Port- 
land can  be  distinctly  seen. 

Farther  south  Mount  Zircon  lifts  its  lofty  head,  the 
highest  mountain  in  that  locality.  At  its  base  is  a  celebrated 
mineral  spring,  and  on  its  summit  once  stood  a  large  hotel,  a 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  89 

fashionable  resort  in  summer  for  wealthy  people.  A  number 
of  years  ago  the  house  burned  down,  and  the  property 
changing  hands,  it  has  never  been  rebuilt. 

Continuing  on  the  stage  soon  reaches  the  store  in  which 
the  South  Andover  post-office  is  located,  two  miles  from 
Andover  Corner.  The  mail  is  left  here,  and  with  but  a  mo- 
ment's stop  the  horses  are  again  put  on  a  trot  for  the  last 
two  miles,  or  the  ''home  stretch,"  as  the  drivers  sometimes 
say.  Off  to  the  right  before  us  we  obtain  a  view  of  Farmer's 
Hill, — a  noted  locality, — and  numerous  other  mountains 
whose  names  have  not  been  handed  down  to  posterity. 

A  half  mile  from  the  hotels  you  pass  the  charming  resi- 
dence of  Sj'lvanus  Poor,  Esq.,  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
road ;  it  is  one  of  the  most  j)opular  of  the  summer  boarding- 
houses.  A  few  rods  beyond  you  will  notice  the  Andover 
Trotting  Park.  The  houses  now  increase  in  number,  the 
stage  rolls  along  a  wide,  level  street,  and  in  a  few  moments 
more  reaches  the  centre  of  the  village,  and  leaves  passengers 
at  French's  Hotel,  the  Andover  House,  or  at  either  of  the 
boarding-houses  kept  by  Cushman  and  Clark.  The  houses 
are  all  good,  and  need  no  especial  recommendation. 

At  Andover  you  stop  over  night,  securing  a  good  night's 
rest,  after  your  three  hours'  stage-ride.  In  the  morning  you 
partake  of  a  hearty  breakfast,  then  get  your  traps  together, 
and  take  a  seat  on  the  spring-board,  or  "buck-board,"  as  the 
natives  have  it,  by  which  you  are  to  continue  your  journey. 
For  mountain-riding  these  teams  cannot  be  excelled,  and  are 
at  once  a  favorite  with  all  classes,  ladies  taking  to  them  as 
readily  as  gentlemen. 

These  vehicles  are  made  of  three  or  four  spruce  boards, 
about  twelve  feet  long  and  four  feet  wide,  fastened  to  dead 
axles,  all  the  spring  being  in  the  boards.  They  have  two 
or  three  seats  on  each,  which  are  box-shaped,  the  top  of  the 
seat  lifting  up,  and  serving  as  a  cover  for  the  box.  They 
have  covered  tops,  and  side  coverings  that  roll  up  in  pleasant 
weather.  Two  horses  are  attached  to  them,  and  they  rattle 
over  the  ground  at  a  lively  pace. 

Daily  teams  are  run  between  Andover  and  the   South  Arm 


90  FAKKAirS  ILLUSTKATED   GUIDE  TO 


of  Lake  Welokenuebacook  from  the  time  the  ice  goes  out  to 
the  middle  of  Octoher.  They  leave  the  hotels  at  half-past 
eight  each  mornini';.,  arriving  at  the  South  Arm  at  noon,  in 
time  for  dinner  at  the  Lakeview  Cottage,  and  connection 
with  steamers  Molechunkamunk  or  Welokennebacook,  for 
Middle  and  Upper  Dams,  Bemis  Stream,  Haines'  Landing, 
Cupsuptic,  Indian  Rock,  and  Eaugeley. 

A  few  days  may  be  advantageously  spent  in  Andover,  in 
brook-fishing,  and  viewing  the  splendid  scenery  in  the 
locality,  either  in  going  to  or  coming  from  the  lakes.  The 
proi^rietors  of  the  hotels  are  familiar  with  the  location  of  all 
the  trout-brooks,  and  will  take  you  to  streams  where  a  good 
day's  sport  is  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception. 

Parties  leaving  Boston  at  night  bv  Portland  steamers  can 
take  the  morning  train  between  Portland  and  Brvaut's  Pond 
(which  from  June  1  to  October  1  is  a  fast  express) ,  and 
reaching  Bryant's  Pond  at  11  A.  M.,  be  carried  through  to 
the  South  Arm,  reaching  the  lake  between  five  and  six 
o'clock.  At  the  LakevicAv  Cottage  they  can  obtain  supper, 
lodging,  and  breakfast,  and,  leaving  the  Arm  at  7.30  the  next 
morning,  arrive  at  the  Upper  Dam  by  nine  o'clock,  thus 
making  a  gain  of  about  six  hours  over  the  all-rail  routes. 
This  will  entail  a  slight  extra  expense. 

By  making  the  trip  in  this  way  the  journe;/  between  Boston 
and  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  is  made  practically  in  one  day, 
as  the  night  on  the  steamer  may  as  w^ell  be  spent  in  that  way 
as  any  other. 


CHAPTER   VI. 


%rmn  ^inhnntr  lo  11;d  ^ouH|  Jtrm. 


HE  ride   from  Andover   to   the 

South  Ann  of  Lake  Welokeu- 

iiebacook     is    \ery    pleasant. 

Leaving-  the  hotel  the  road  runs 

down  to  the  Ellis  Eiver,  Avhieli 

is  crossed  over  a  substantially 

l)uilt  covered  bridge,  then  turns 

sha]'])ly  to  the  right,  climbing 

a  little  hill,  and  makes  another 

sharp   turn,   this    time    to   the 

left;    reaching  the   height    of 

land,  vou  have   a   magnificeut 

view  of  the   prettj-   village   of 

Andover,  and  the   Ellis   Eiver 

valley  for  several  miles.      A  more  charming  landscape   you 

will  not  meet  with  in  many  a  day's  travel. 

White   Cap,   Lead  Mountain,   Bald  Pate,    Dunn's    Notch, 

Farmer's  Hill,  Sawyer  Notch,  Blue  and   Sawyer  Mountains, 

forming  the  natural  Avails  of   the  valley,  and   various   other 

places  of  interest,  may  be  seen  from  this  point  in  the  road. 

The  horses  trot  gayly  along ;  you  soon  jjass  the  last  house 

on  the  road  to  the  Arm,  located  at  some   distance  from  the 

highway  to  the  left,  and  descending  a  steep  pitch,  you   cross 

Black  Brook,  over  a  little  wooden  ])ridge,   and  shortly   leave 

the  main  road,  which  continues  on  to  the  town  of  Byron. 

From  the  village  of  Andover  to  where  you  leave  the  Byron 

road  is  three  miles,  and,  turning  to  the  left,  vou  enter   wliat 

91 


C 


H 
(1- 


(J 

C 


c 

C 


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THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  93 

is  commonly  called  the  Lake  road,  running  for  nine  miles 
through  an  unsettled  wilderness.  Years  ago  this  road  was 
rough  and  muddy,  but  of  late  years  a  large  sum  of  money  is 
annually  spent  on  it,  and  it  is  now  in  as  good  condition  as 
any  county  road  in  the  state.  In  the  fall  of  1878  the  County 
Commissioners  laid  out  the  road  as  a  public  road,  and 
assessed  the  land-owners  along  the  route  a  sufficient  sum  to 
make  the  road  first-class. 

The  trees  grow  close  to  the  road  on  either  side ;  there  are 
no  clearings,  and  you  can  only  get  a  peep  at  the  sky  by  looking 
directly  overhead ;  and  at  times  you  cannot  even  do  that,  as 
the  branches  of  some  of  the  venerable  monarchs  of  the 
forest  meet  above  your  head,  forming  a  beautiful  and  fan- 
tastic archway,  completely  hiding  the  sky  and  sun. 

Arriving  at  "Smith's  Mill,"  so  called,  you  stop  some  thirty 
minutes  to  visit  the  Devil's  Den,  Hermit  Falls,  and  Silver 
Ripple  Cascade.  Crossing  the  sunny  glade  where  the  teams 
are  halted,  you  walk  down  the  path,  passing  a  spring  of 
excellent  water,  cross  a  little  rivulet,  and  ascend  a  slight 
acclivity,  where  you  reach  the  first  curiosity,  the  Devil's 
Den.  It  is  certainly  a  wonderful  place  and  a  queer  freak  of 
nature. 

The  den  is  a  large  excavation  in  the  granil  e  rock,  and  has 
been  formed  by  the  action  of  the  water  during  the  fearful 
freshets  that  take  place  in  that  region  in  spring,  assisted 
occasionally  perhaps  by  some  of  the  heavy  thunder-storms, 
whose  powerful  electricity  crumbles  the  edges  and  tears  off 
pieces  of  the  rock,  which  are  swept  away  by  the  raj)id 
current  of  the  freshet.  It  is  from  sixty  to  eighty  feet  deep, 
and  about  thirty  feet  across  the  top.  Formerly  a  mill,  owned 
by  a  man  named  Smith,  stood  over  it.  At  that  time  the 
waters  of  Black  Brook  emptied  into  the  Den  over  the  wall  of 
solid  rock  w^hich  formed  the  back,  and  made  their  escape 
through  an  opening  in  the  rock  at  the  lower  end.  The  shape 
of  the  Den  inside  is  like  a  letter  U  turned  sideways,  with  the 
bottom  of  the  letter  towards  the  upper  part  of  the  brook. 
The  wheel  was  hung  in  the  Den  under  the  mill,  and  so  near 
the  precipice  over  which  the  water  fell  as  to  be  driven  by  the 


c 
c 


c 


P5 


THE  ANDPtOSCOGGIX  LAKES.  95 

force  of  its  fall.  But  the  mill  has  long  since  fallen  to  decay, 
and  the  waters  of  Black  Brook  have  been  turned  from  the 
Den,  and  have  worn  a  new  channel  through  the  rocks  a  few 
yards  beyond.  The  bottom  of  the  Den  is  now  partially 
covered  with  rubbish  and  broken  timbers,  that  have  fallen  in 
as  the  building  has  succumbed  to  the  ravages  of  time  and 
the  elements.  The  best  view  of  this  wonderful  chasm  is 
from  the  ux)per  end  looking  down. 

Like  all  romantic  places  of  the  kind,  this  locality  has  its 
legend.    It  runs  thus  : — 

"Many  years  ago,  a  man  by  the  name  of  Brown,  who  was 
more  of  a  hunter  and  trapper  than  anything  else,  came  down 
to  Andover  from  Canada.  After  stopi)ing  in  the  village  a 
few  Aveeks,  he  came  out  here  in  the  wilderness,  and,  with  the 
assistance  of  some  of  the  village  people,  built  him  a  log-house. 
At  that  time  Indians  were  thick  about  the  lakes,  and  hunting 
and  trapping  was  anything  but  safe  business.  Here  Brown 
lived,  miles  from  other  houses,  without  any  companions  but 
a  dog  and  a  horse.  Occasionallj^  he  would  make  a  visit  to 
the  town,  trade  his  furs  at  the  stores  for  necessaries  in  the 
way  of  groceries  and  ammunition,  and  then  return  to  his 
log-cabin,  not  to  be  seen  for  another  long  spell.  One  winter 
and  spring,  two  years  after  he  had  built  his  cabin,  the 
Indians  were  particularly  troublesome  and  daring,  and 
Brown  had  not  made  his  appearance  at  Andover  for  a  long 
time.  At  the  principal  store,  one  day,  a  number  of  the 
villagers  had  accidentally  met,  and  were  wondering  what 
had  become  of  the  eccentric  hunter,  when  Brown's  dog 
walked  into  the  store  so  thin  and  lank  thej^  scarcely  knew 
him.  He  was  almost  famished,  and  Mudge,  the  store-keeper, 
gave  him  something  to  eat.  After  the  dog  had  eaten  he  acted 
very  strangely, — would  go  to  the  door  and  look  out,  then 
come  back,  and,  looking  the  men  wistfully  in  the  face,  would 
give  utterance  to  a  mournful  howl.  Those  i^resent  thought 
something  had  happened  to  Brown,  for  the  dog  was  never 
known  to  come  to  the  village  before  alone.  After  talking  the 
matter  over,  they  raised  a  company  of  twenty  men,  and  the 
next  morning  well  armed,  they  started  for  Brown's  cabin, 


96  FARRAliS  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

the  dog  taking  the  lead  just  as  if  he  understood  ail  that  was 
ffoinjr  on.  When  they  arrived  here  they  found  the  cabin 
burned  to  the  ground,  and  the  bones  of  Brown,  which  had 
been  picked  clean  by  the  wolves,  were  all  there  w^as  left  of 
the  unfortunate  hunter.  Xear  by  beneath  a  rudely  con- 
structed grave,  they  found  the  remains  of  four  Indians, 
showing  that  Brown  must  have  sold  his  life  dearly.  They 
dug  a  grave  and  buried  the  bones,  and  then  returned  home, 
Mudge  keeping  the  dog,  who  lived  for  some  years  after  his 
master's  death.  The  horse,  and  everything  else  of  any 
value  the  redskins  had  taken  away  with  them." 

A  few  yards  beyond  the  Den,  you  reach  Black  Brook,  an 
excellent  trout  stream,  and  here  ar3  Hermit  Falls  and 
Silver  Ripple  Cascade. 

On  each  side  of  the  brook  are  heavy  masses  of  ledge,  and 
between  these  the  water  comes  foaming  and  swirling  down, 
tumbling  over  two  or  three  huge  rocks,  forming  the  falls, 
and  then  plunges  into  a  black-looking  pool  of  unfathomable 
depth.  From  this  it  pours  down  over  a  solid  bed  of  granite, 
forming  a  lovely  cascade,  and  empties  into  a  basin,  nearly 
circular  in  shape,  and  some  thirty  feet  wide.  It  is  not  unlike 
Garnet  Pool,  near  the  Glen  House,  but  is  larger,  and  more 
beautiful  in  its  surroundings. 

An  hour  may  be  profitably  spent  in  this  charming  place, 
and  one  unconsciously  lingers,  as  if  loathe  to  tear  himself 
away  from  its  attracting  features. 

After  leaving  this  lovely  spot  the  road  rises  fast,  the  ele- 
vation between  Andover  and  Lakeview  Cottage  at  the  South 
Arm  being  950  feet.  As  you  ride  along  through  the  leafy 
solitudes  your  ears  are  soothed  with  harmonious  sounds 
arising  from  Black  Brook,  as  its  waters  leap  with  a  merry 
ripple  from  rock  to  rock,  to  continue  their  flight  until 
swallowed  up  by  the  Ellis,  into  which  stream  they  empty. 

Soon  after  leaving  "Smith's  Mill,''  occasional  glimpses  are 
obtained  through  the  tops  of  the  trees,  of  Old  Blue,  whose 
ragged  sides  form  one  of  the  walls  of  the  Xotch.  Three 
miles  from  the  Devil's  Den  the  road  winds  over  Cedar  Hill, 
from  whose  summit  you  look  down  into  Black  Brook  Xotch ; 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGm  LAKES.  97 

at  this  point  you  have  a  splendid  view  of  Sawyer  and  Blue 
Mountains,  which  come  together  below  you,  leaving  just  room 
to  allow  a  team  to  pass  between  them,  but  not  without  the 
hubs  of  the  wheels  scraping  on  the  rough  sides  of  the  rocks. 

On  your  right  a  frightful  precipice  looms  eight  hundred 
feet  above  j'ou,  its  sides  seamed  and  scarred  by  the  war  of 
the  elements,  and  in  many  places  it  looks  as  if  the  rocks 
would  fall  into  the  road  at  any  moment.  Slides  often  occur 
here,  the  last  one  being  in  the  spring  of  188G.  On  the  left 
Sawyer  Mountain  towers  into  the  air,  an  occasional  huge 
cliff  peeping  out  from  the  dense  mass  of  woods  with  which 
it  is  covered.  There  is  a  wildness  and  sublimity  about  the 
scenery  of  the  Notch  that  charms  every  beholder,  and  the 
view  through  it  from  the  top  is  not  only  beautiful  but  most 
impressive.  This  is  a  favorite  locality  for  thunder-showers, 
and  when  you  are  caught  in  one  you  do  not  forget  it  in  a 
hurry.  The  sun  disappears,  and  the  sky  is  covered  with  dull 
leaden  clouds,  the  rain  pours  in  torrents,  the  wind  whistles 
around  you  with  a  mournful  wail,  the  thunder  rolls  heavily 
from  mountain  to  mountain,  sending  forth  frightful  echoes, 
and  the  fearful  flashes  of  lightning  that  illuminate  the  inky 
clouds  are  all  a  fitting  addition  to  the  grandeur  of  the  scene. 

At  the  foot  of  Cedar  Hill  a  sluice  dam  is  thrown  across  the 
brook,  and  this  raises  the  water  sufliciently  in  the  spring  to 
float  down  the  logs,  when  lumbering  operations  are  carried 
on  here ;  of  late  years,  however,  but  little  has  been  done  in 
this  line  and  the  dam  is  graduallj'-  going  to  decay.  We 
present  our  readers  with  an  engraving  of  Mount  Sawyer  and 
the  Sluice  Dam. 

After  leaving  the  Notch  the  road  winds  along  the  valley 
of  Black  Brook,  the  landscape  presenting  many  interesting 
features.  A  short  distance  from  the  dam  you  reach  a  beauti- 
ful crystal  spring,  which  bubbles  up  from  a  bed  of  sparkling 
sand,  from  under  an  immense  boulder  on  tlip  right-hand  side 
of  the  road.  The  Avarmest  day  in  summer  this  water  is  as 
cold  as  ice,  and  all  travelers  to  the  lakes  stop  a  few  moments 
to  obtain  a  draught  of  this  invigorating  elixir.  This  spring 
has  been  apxDropriatelj^  termed  the  "Cold  Spring,"  by  which 


08 


FAiULUrS   ILIA'S  TKATKl)    GLIDE    1  ^  > 


■•f>«t^-^'^  iKiiHc   it    i:^    o'onerallv   known.     A    tc 


^\■ 


^r^i.' 


I 


^i'i'?^i>    roOs  beyond  the  spring  you  Avill  notice, 

/  'k?  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  road,    an 

^4  immense  hole  in  the  side  of  the  moun- 

k^f^;sM"s.i-;/r.v^'^  tain,  whose  base  you  are   skirtino;.     it 

^m{' 'i^rM'u'^^^  of  the  peak,  at  the 

..^^^P^^i^£^^>S^  Ijottom  of  an  overhanging  elitt".     It  has 

iff  V  i'^i-Jfc'^^  been     christened     by    some     one     the 

i:  r' r-fil  ---$^^^^2!^  '••Devil's  Oven."    And  certainly  it  seems 

tv  ever  has 
he  could  not 
I  have  chosen  a  more  fitting  place. 

About  two  miles  farther  on  you  cross 
^  a  branch  of  Black  Brook  that  is  a  very 
I  good  trout  stream ;  and  a  short  distance 
bevond  vou  cross  the  main  branch   of 
K  Black  Brook  which  heads  in  the  moun- 
tains   on    the    east    side  of   the   Arm. 
This  stream  is  also  fished  for  trout  with 
good     success.      Between     these     two 
brooks  on  the   right-hand   side   of  the 
road,   stood,   some  years  ago,   a  birch 
guide-board,  that  marked  a  road  lead- 
ins;  to  the  old  Eichardson  Farm.     This 
old  road  is  now  overgrown,  and   it   is 
)iot  safe  for  a  stranger  to   attempt   to 
follow  it.     In  this  vicinity  are   a   nuni- 
:?%^^M    ber  of  lumber  camps  located  a  short 
distance  from  the  road  to  the  right. 


Crossing  the  second  brook,  a  short  ride  brings  you  to  a 


THE  AXDEOSCOGGIN  LAJOlS.  99 

foot-pcith  that  leaves  the  main  road  on  the  left-hand  side, 
crossing  the  mountains  to  Andover,  and  by  which  the  distance 
between  the  Hotels  and  the  South  Arm  is  shortened  some 
three  miles.  The  writer,  in  company  with  several  other 
gentlemen  and  their  guides,  walked  from  the  South  Arm  to 
the  village,  by  the  mountain  path,  several  years  ago,  and 
found  it  a  very  pleasant  jaunt.  The  party  numbered  fourteen 
men  and  two  dogs, — the  largest  party  that  had  ever  walked  out 
over  the  mountains.  On  our  way  one  of  the  guides  called 
my  attention  to  a  huge  white  birch-tree  near  the  path,  with 
which  was  connected  a  story.  He  said,  "One  winter  a  man 
from  the  village  had  attemi^ted  to  walk  in  to  the  lake  to  join 
a  party  who  were  fishing  for  trout,  and  he  lost  his  way. 
The  snow  was  deep,  and  for  tw^o  days  and  nights  he  hunted 
for  the  path  in  vain,  and,  finally,  believing  he  could  not 
survive  much  longer,  he  tore  out  a  leaf  from  a  pocket-diary, 
and  wrote  a  few  farewell  lines  to  his  wife  and  family,  which 
he  fastened  to  that  birch-tree.  After  that  he  wandered  aim- 
lessly about,  and  accidentally  chanced  upon  the  path.  He 
arrived  home  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  half-starved  and  near- 
ly frozen,  but  soon  recovered  from  the  ill  effects  of  his  advent- 
ure.   The  next  spring  I  found  the  paper  pinned  to  the  tree.'' 

In  walking  in  or  out  across  the  mountains,  one  has  a  fine 
view  of  Sawyer  Xotch,  and  the  Moody  Ledge,  so  called 
from  an  accident  which  once  befell  a  man  of  that  name  while 
after  wolves  on  the  mountain. 

One  evening  Moody,  and  several  others  who  were  in  the 
vicinity,  heard  the  howling  of  w^olves  on  the  mountain  above 
the  ledge.  They  started  up  the  mountain,  intending  to  make 
it  hot  for  the  wolves.  Moody  led  the  way,  and,  when  just 
above  the  ledge,  a  small  tree  that  he  had  hold  of  gave  way, 
and  before  he  could  catch  at  anything  else,  down  he  went. 
He  struck  first  on  a  little  shelf  of  the  ledge  about  a  third  of 
the  way  down,  which  broke  his  fall  and  some  of  his  bones 
at  the  same  time.  Before  he  could  secure  himself,  over  he 
w^ent  again,  and  landed  about  a  third  further  down,  on  a 
little  spur  projecting  from  the  main  precipice,  upon  which  grew 
a  few  small  bushes.    Before  he  could  get  hold  of  these,  he 


100 


FAlMIAirS  ILJA'STILVTED  GLIDE  TO 


again  fell,  striking  heavily  at  th(^  bottom  of  the  rock.  His 
companions  made  a  stretcher  and  took  him  out  to  the  village. 
A  doctor  was  called,  and  it  was  found  tliat  the  unfortunate 
man  had  broken  both  his  arms  and  legs,  and  his  collar-bone, 
and  from  a  fearful  cut  on  his  head  some  of  his  brains   were 


oozmg. 


Yet.  in  spite  of  this  he  managed  to  get  well,   went 


Katukal  Arch,  Lake  Eoad,  C  Tow^nship,  Me. 

to  sea,  and  was  drowned.  This  is  no  mere  fancy  sketch,  1)ut 
the  facts  are  substantially  as  we  have  written  them,  and 
there  are  men  still  living  in  Andovev  who  helped  bring 
Moody  out  of  the  woods.  But  the  wcmdcri'ul  cii'cumstances 
of  the  case  bring  to  mind  the  old  adage,  "A  man  who  is  born 
to  be  drowned  will  not  be  hanged.'' 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  101 

Between  the  mountain  path  and  the  Arm  nothing  occurs 
worthy  of  special  mention ;  a  few  minutes'  ride  brings  you 
in  sight  of  the  lalie ;  the  team  is  driven  to  the  steamboat 
wharf  a  few  rods  from  Lakeview  Cottage,  and  you  bid  fare- 
well to  the  buckboard. 

The  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Company, 
to  provide  for  their  fast-increasing  travel  at  the  lakes,  have 
built  an  elegant  new  steam  yacht,  the  Molechunkamunk,  and 
placed  it  on  the  Androscoggin  Lakes.  It  will  run  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Welokennebacook,  between  the  South  Arm  and 
Upper  Dam,  touching  at  the  usual  landings.  When  not 
otherwise  engaged  it  can  be  hired  by  private  parties.  The 
boat  is  built  in  a  superior  manner,  and  furnished  with  a  steel 
boiler,  and  other  fittings  of  equal  excellence. 

The  company  also,  during  the  sjDring  and  summer  of  1882, 
erected  a  neat  little  hotel,  three  stories  and  a  half  high,  at 
the  South  Arm.  The  house  is  called  Lakeview  Cottage,  and 
is  pleasantly  located  on  the  lake  shore,  near  the  steamboat 
landing,  and  commands  a  very  fine  and  extensive  view  up  the 
lake.  It  has  wide  piazzas  on  all  sides ;  that  fronting  the  lake 
being  on  the  second  story  of  the  house,  and  for  rest  and 
promenade  they  cannot  but  be  appreciated  by  the  guests  of 
the  hotel.  The  upper  story  is  finished  in  wood,  sheathed  and 
oiled ;  the  lower  stories  are  plastered.  All  the  floors  are  of 
hard  wood  finished  in  oil.  The  hotel  is  well  furnished,  the 
sleeping-rooms  being  provided  with  the  best  spring-beds  and 
hair  mattresses  that  money  could  buy,  and  in  this  respect  the 
house  is  not  equalled  by  any  in  the  lake  region,  excepting 
the  Lakeside,  at  the  foot  of  Umbagog  Lake,  in  Cambridge, 
which  hotel  also  belongs  to  the  company. 

The  rates  at  Lakeview  Cottage  are  $2.00  per  day ;  dinners 
50  cents  each.  All  the  sleeping-rooms  in  the  house  but  two 
are  corner  rooms,  and  are  unusually  pleasant  on  that  ac- 
count. Although  the  South  xirm  is  more  free  from  flies  and 
mosquitoes  than  many  points  in  the  lake  region,  the 
Company  have  provided  the  hotel  with  the  finest  wire  screens 
manufactured,  for  the  windows  and  outside  doors,  and  each 
sleeping-room  is  furnished  with  a  large  mosquito  canopy, 


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THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAI^S.  103 

suiToundiDg  the  entire  bed,  for  use  during  fly-time,  so  that 
guests  can  stop  at  the  house  with  some  degree  of  comfort. 

The  table  will  be  supplied  with  the  best  that  the  local 
markets  aflbrd,  and  no  pains  will  be  spared  by  the  Company 
to  make  the  stay  of  guests  at  the  Lakeview  pleasant  in  every 
respect. 

Especial  attention  has  been  paid  to  drainage,  and  in  this 
respect  the  hotel  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  in  the  countr5^ 
Pure  spring  water  is  brought  into  the  house  and  is  used  for 
all  purposes. 

The  fishing  at  the  South  Arm  from  the  time  the  ice  goes 
out,  up  to  about  the  middle  of  July,  is  as  good  as  any  other 
point  in  the  lake  region,  and  trout  weighing  from  half  a 
pound  to  ten  pounds  are  taken  there.  The  company  have 
bought  a  number  of  new  row-boats  the  present  season,  and 
these  may  be  hired  from  the  manager  of  the  hotel  for  fishing 
and  other  purposes. 

Gentlemen  visiting  the  lakes  accompanied  by  their  families 
will  find  the  Lakeview  a  very  desirable  house  to  stop  at,  on 
account  of  its  home-like  ajDpearance,  and  the  inducements  it 
ofiers  for  rest  and  pleasure.  Ladies  and  young  people  can 
here  indulge  in  boating  with  less  danger  than  at  any  other 
point  on  the  lakes,  as  there  are  several  coves  and  baj^s, 
sheltered  by  islands  and  the  mainland,  always  free  from 
rough  water.  There  are  also  fine  chances  for  bathing  but  a 
short  distance  from  the  house. 

There  are  also  pleasant  walks  in  the  vicinity,  offering  a 
chance  for  lovers  of  Avoodland  paths  to  take  any  amount  of 
pedestrian  exercise ;  good  trout  streams,  furnishing  brook 
trout  in  abundance,  are  within  two  miles  of  the  house.  The 
steamers  leave  the  hotel  for  points  up  the  lake  at  7.00  A.  M., 
and  1.00  P.  M.,  returning  at  noon  and  5.00  p.  M. 

There  is  a  daily  mail  to  the  house  from  Andover  and  also 
from  points  up  the  lake.  Parties  wishing  to  order  rooms 
in  ad/ance  can  do  so  bj^  addressing  "Manager  Lakeview 
Cottage,"  South  Arm,  Andover,  Oxford  Co.,  Maine. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Tlrnm  flp  ^ouif|  ^vfii  in  1^0  %ptti  Jmn* 


"V^^^^V^  "\  IJf^.'J^^fe^    ^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^^  steamers  Weloken- 

nebacook  or  Molechunkamuiik 
make  two  trips  daily  between 
the  South  Arm  and  the  Ui^per 
Dam  Landing,  touching  each 
way  at  the  3Iiddle  Dam.  The 
steamer  leaves  the  South  Arm 
at  7.00  A.  M.,  and  1.00  p.  M., 
and  the  Middle  Dam,  at  7.30  A. 
31.,  and  2.00  P.  M.,  arriving  at 
the  Upper  Dam  Lauding  at  8.30 
A.  31.,  and  3.00  P.  3i. 

Embarking  on  the  steamer  vou  And  it  an  agreeable  chanire 
after  your  ride.  Leaving  the  wharf  the  boat  glides  up  the 
lake,  the  whistle  severing  the  last  connection  between  youi-- 
self  and  the  outer  world.  The  sail  from  here  to  the  Upper 
Dam  Landing  is  delightful.  The  distance  from  the  South 
Arm  to  the  Middle  Dam,  where  the  steamer  makes  her  first 
landing,  is  four  miles. 

A  short  distance  al)ove  the  wharf,  a  little  way  beyond,  you 
pass  on  the  right  hand  Lakeview  Cottage,  cosily  nestled 
under  a  mountain  but  a  few  steps  from  the  Lake ;  on  the  left 
or  western  side  of  the  lake  you  will  notice  a  small  opening 
leading  to  an  inlet  behind  an  island ;  this  2^1ace  is  known  as 
Poke-Logon.  On  the  same  side,  about  a  mile  from  the 
wharf,  you  j^ass  another  little  cove  known  as  Saint's  Eest. 
Beyond  this  is  Loon  Bay.     A  mile  above  the    wharf,    on    the 

right  (eastern  shore),  vou  pass  a  sand  spit,  known  as  Bailej^'s 

105 


lOG  FAREAE'S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 


Point,  on  which  formerly  grew  several  tall  pines  ;  the  last  one, 
however,  has  succumbed  to  the  rise  of  water  caused  by  the 
building  of  the  Xew  Middle  Dam,  and  the  point  is  now  barren. 
Loon  Island  (a  sunken  reef,  which  is  not  visible  at  the 
highest  stage  of  water)  is  passed  just  above  the  point,  and 
a  half  mile  farther  north  the  rocky  shores  of  Spirit  Isl- 
and are  noticed.  A  weather  beaten  pine,  long  shorn  of 
its  foliage,  adorns  the  upper  part  of  the  island  which  is 
otherwise  covered  by  a  growth  of  white  birch,  and  forms  a 
frequent  resting-place  for  the  sea  gulls  and  eagles  that 
inhabit  the  lake  country.  This  was  once  quite  a  large  island, 
and  formerly  was  a  favorite  camping-place,  but  the  rise  of 
the  water  has  washed  nearly  half  of  the  soil  away,  and  in 
place  of  the  luxuriant  growth  that  once  crowned  it,  there 
remains  now  onlj^  a  few  stunted  m  hite  birches  on  the  very 
highest  part  of  the  land.  A  rough-looking  point  covered 
with  huge  boulders,  known  as  Hard-Scrabble,  next  attracts 
attention  on  the  right.  This  has  always  been  the  terror  of 
oarsmen,  when  pulling  up  the  lake  against  the  heavy  north- 
west winds  that  prevail  a  great  part  of  the  time  during  June 
and  September.  Many  a  "hard-scrabble"  has  the  writer  had, 
years  ago,  when  trying  to  pass  the  point  in  a  row-boat.  In 
a  north-west  gale  the  sea  runs  very  heavy  off  this  point, 
making  the  j^assage  on  some  days  dangerous  for  small  boats. 
On  all  sides  the  mountains,  thickly  wooded,  descend  to  the 
water,  the  shores  curving  and  twisting  in  irregular  lines. 
As  you  pass  Hard-Scrabble  the  lake  opens  to  its  fullest  width 
before  you,  and  far  in  the  north,  across  the  mountains  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  is  seen  the  wedge-shaped  summit  of  Mount 
Dustan,  also  the  highest  peak  of  old  Aziscohos,  the  monarch 
of  the  Magalloway. 

Welokennebacook  is  one  of  the  prettiest  lakes  of  the 
Androscoggin  chain.  Seen  under  any  aspect,  its  waters 
slightly  ruffled  by  a  gentle  south  wind,  or  stirred  into  billowy 
waves,  with  frothy  caps,  by  a  north-wester,  or  entirely  placid 
when 

"The  solemn  pines  along  its  shore, 
The  firs  which  hang  its  gray  rocks  o'er, 
Are  painted  on  its  glassy  floor," 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIX  LAKES. 


10/ 


it  is  benutifiil,  and  will  hold  a  place  among   j'our  pleasant 
memories. 

As  you  cross  from  Hard-Scrabble  to  the  Middle  Dam  the 
view  behind  you,  lookino-  toward  the  Arm  is  very  fine.  It  is 
said  by  European  travellers  to  resemble  the  head  of  Loch 
Katrine,  in  Scotland,  only  the  scene  is  more  beautiful,  bear- 
ing the  Middle  Dam,   we   obtain   a  line   view   of  the   camp, 


Wooding  up  on  Lake  Welokennebacook. 

most  appropriately  known  as  the  "Angler^s  Retreat,"  stand- 
ing back  a  few  rods  from  the  shore,  and  fronting  the  lake. 
As  we  run  in  to  the  wharf  we  pass  Rifle  Point,  and  the 
"Run,"  the  outlet  of  the  lakes,  on  the  left.  The  steamer 
arrives  at  the  Middle  Dam  Landing  at  half-past  one.    A  few 


108  FAEKAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

minutes'  stop  only  is  made  here,  and  again  the  fasts  are  cast 
off,  the  whistle  sounds  tlie  departure,  and  we  are  under  way 
for  the  Upper  Dam  Landing,  eight  miles  distant. 

Our  course  lays  diagonallj^  across  the  lake,  and  we  pass 
Jackson  Point,  jutting  into  the  lake  from  the  northern  shore, 
midway  between  the  wharf  and  the  Narrows.  As  we  enter 
the  passage  connecting  the  lakes  you  pass  Portland  Point  on 
the  right,  and  Horse  Beef  Point  on  the  left.  A  range  of 
mountains,  known  as  the  Farm  Ridge,  extends  along  the 
entire  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Welokennebacook  and  the  Nar- 
rows, and  finally  joins  the  Bemis  Mountain  Range  at  the  foot 
of  Mooselucmaguntic  Lake. 

Looking  back  from  the  mouth  of  the  Narrows  you  have 
one  of  the  finest  mountain  views  to  be  obtained  anywhere  in 
the  lake  region.  Li  the  south  Bald  Pate, — a  familiar  ac- 
quaintance to  those  who  have  been  in  Andover, — and 
Speckled  Mountain  may  be  seen  forming  the  walls  of 
Grafton  Notch.  In  the  south-west,  nearly  on  a  line  with 
the  buildings  near  the  Middle  Dam,  appear  several  of  the 
AVhite  Mountain  peaks;  Washington,  Jefferson,  and  Adams 
being  the  only  ones  visible.  The  view  down  the  lake  from 
the  foot  of  the  Narrows  is  unsurpassed  by  any  similar  land- 
scax)e  in  the  country.  The  Narrows  are  two  miles  long,  and 
from  a  few  rods  to  half  a  mile  wide.  In  some  places  the 
rocks  are  very  thick,  but  are  not  troublesome  except  late  in 
the  season,  when  the  water  is  low.  The  sail  through  this 
narrow  strait  is  quite  a  change  from  the  lake ;  and,  although 
the  scene  differs  from  that  below,  it  is  still  as  charming  as 
ever.  One  of  the  peculiar  features  of  the  Narrows  is  the 
wall  of  rock  running  along  the  northern  shore,  not  visible, 
however,  in  extreme  high  water.  It  resembles  the  stone 
walls  on  a  farm ;  and  at  first  sight  one  would  almost  imagine 
that  it  had  been  built  purposely.  A  very  amusing  story 
occurs  to  me  in  connection  with  this  rocky  wall. 

Some  years  ago  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  was  going 
up  the  lakes,  and  one  of  the  ladies  asked  the  only  gentleman 
of  the  party  who  had  visited  the  lakes  before,  what  that  wall 
was  for,   she  supposing  it  to  have  been  built.    He  gravely 


THE  AXDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  109 

told  her  that  several  years  before  the  Indians  had  built  that 
wall  to  prevent  the  bull-frogs  from  jumping  out  on  the  land 
and  frightening  the  deer.  The  lady  took  his  statement  for 
fact,  and,  a  few  j'-ears  afterwards,  while  at  a  party  in  New 
York  city,  she  was  relating  to  a  little  knot  of  interested 
listeners  the  story  of  her  trij)  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes ; 
"and  the  funniest  thing  I  learned  there,"  said  she,  "was  that 
the  Indians  had  built  a  wall  along  the  Narrows  to  prevent 
the  bull-frogs  from  jumping  out  on  the  land  and  frightening 
the  deer."  The  gentleman  who  had  given  her  that  wonderful 
piece  of  information  was  also  at  the  party,  and  happened  to 
overhear  her  story.  He  could  not  help  laughing,  and 
attracted  the  attention  of  the  lady,  who  saw  from  the  ex- 
Dression  of  his  face  that  something  was  wrong.  "I  am  sure 
you  told  me  so!"  she  exclaimed.  "I  acknowledge  that, 
madam,"  he  replied;  "but  I  did  not  expect  you  to  accept  the 
statement  as  a  literal  fact ;"  and  the  little  circle  of  friends 
joined  in  a  laugh  at  the  expense  of  the  fair  storj^-teller. 
Deer  are  sometimes  seen  on  the  shores  at  the  lower  part  of 
the  Narrows,  there  being  very  good  feeding-ground  for  them 
for  half  a  mile  on  each  side. 

Near  the  head  of  the  narrows,  on  the  left-hand  side,  stands 
the  new  camp  belonging  to  Messrs.  Stevens,  Shattuck  and 
Smart,  of  Boston.  It  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  Alder 
Brook,  near  a  handsome  growth  of  white  birch,  and  com- 
mands a  pleasant  outlook.  It  has  been  christened  "Vive-Vale 
Camp,"  and  is  a  very  comfortable,  cosy  establishment.  It  has 
accomodations  for  six  people.  Mr.  Chas.  Stevens,  the  projec- 
tor of  the  camp,  is  one  of  the  most  successful  fishermen  that 
visit  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Region,  as  will  be  seen  by  a 
record  of  some  of  his  catches  elsewhere  in  this  volume,  and  in 
fact  all  the  owners  are  thorough  sportsmen,  and  will  be  a  wel- 
come addition  to  the  largely  increasing  number  who  are  de- 
termined to  spend  a  portion  of  each  summer  at  least  at  the 
Androscoggin  Lakes. 

As  you  approach  Lake  Molechunkamunk,  you  pass  Metal- 
lak  Point  on  your  right.  Here  is  a  splendid  sand  beach  and 
a  fine  chance  for  bathing.    The  chance  for  bathing  is  as  good 

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THE  AXDROSCOGGrN"  LAIvES.  Ill 

as  ever ;  but  since  the  re-building  of  the  Middle  Darn  the 
beach  is  under  water  most  of  the  time.  During  the  fall 
fishing  very  large  trout  are  often  taken  off  this  point.  "Old 
Metallak,"  an  Indian  chief,  for  whom  this  point  was  named, 
lived  here  with  his  squaw  for  many  years,  and  the  place  has 
quite  a  romantic  liistory;  the  story  is  too  long  to  tell  here, 
but  it  may  be  found  in  a  book  entitled  "Eastward  Ho !"  that 
can  be  obtained  at  any  bookstore.  A  path  leads  up  from 
Metallak  Point  to  a  clearing,  where  used  to  stand  two  old 
barns,  often  made  use  of  for  shelter  by  persons  who  were 
camping  out.  The  barns  were  taken  down  in  the  winter  of 
1S77,  and  used  in  the  construction  of  the  hotel  at  the  IMiddle 
Dam.  They  have  long  been  a  guide  to  the  voyager  up  and 
down  the  lakes,  and  it  will  be  regretted  by  many  that  this 
ancient  landmark  has  been  removed.  Several  summers  ago 
the  writer  of  this  book  and  a  party  of  friends  were  encamped 
at  the  Eichardson  Farm,  as  the  place  is  called,  for  two  weeks 
and  found  it  a  very  pleasant  spot.  Theodore  "Winthrop  has 
thus  written  of  this  lake  : — 

"As  evening  came,  the  sun  made  another  effort,  with  the 
aid  of  west  winds,  at  the  mist.  The  sun  cleft,  the  breeze 
drove.  Suddenly  the  battle  was  done,  victory  easily  gained. 
We  were  cheered  by  a  gush  of  level  sunlight.  Even  the  dull 
gray  vapor  became  a  transfigured  and  beautiful  essence. 
Dull  and  uniform  it  had  hung  over  the  land ;  now  the  plastic 
winds  quarried  it  and  shaped  the  whole  mass  into  individuals, 
each  with  its  character.  To  the  cloud-forms,  modeled  out  of 
formlessness,  the  winds  gave  life  of  motion,  sunshine  gave 
life  of  light,  and  they  hastened  through  the  lower  atmos- 
phere, or  sailed  lingering  across  the  blue  breadths  of  mid- 
heaven,  or  dwelt  peacefully  aloft  in  the  region  of  the  am; 
and  whether  trailing  gauzy  robes  in  flight,  or  moving  stately, 
or  dwelling  on  high  where  scope  of  vision  makes  travel  need- 
less, they  were  still  the  brightest,  the  gracefulest,  the  purest 
beings  that  Earth  creates  for  man's  most  delicate  pleasures. 

"AVhen  it  cleared, — when  it  purveyed  us  a  broadening  zone 
of  blue  sky  and  a  heavenful  of  brilliant  cloud-creatures,  we 
were  sailing  over  Lake  Mollychunkamug.    Fair  Mollychunk- 


112 


1  AlULUrS  ILLUSTltATED  GUIDE    TO 


aimii:;  liad  not  smiled  for  us  iiiitil  now; — now  a  sunny  <yi-in 
spread  over  her  smooth  cheeks.  She  Avas  all  smiling,  and 
presenth',  as  the  breeze  dimpled  her,  all  a  'snicker'  up  into 
the  roots  of  her  hair,  up  amoni^  her  forest-tresses.  Molly- 
clmnkanmg!  AVho  could  be  aught  but  gaj^,  gay  even  to  the 
farcical,  when  on  such  a  name?    Is   it  Indian?    Bewildered 


Lake  Molechunkamunk  fkom  Metallak  Point. 

Indian  we  deem  it, — transmogrified  somewhat  from  aboriginal 
sound  by  the  fond  imagination  of  some  lumberman,  finding 
in  it  a  sweet  memorial  of  his  Mary  far  awa}'  in  the  kitchens 
of  the  Kennebec,  his  Mary  so  rotund  of  blooming  cheek,  his 
Molly  of  the   chunky   mug.     To  him   who   truly  loves,   all 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  L.SJvES.  113 

Nature  is  filled  with  Amaryllidian  echoes.  Every  sight  and 
every  sound  recall  her  who  need  not  be  recalled,  to  a  heart 
that  has  never  dislodged  her. 

"We  lingered  over  our  interview  with  Mollychunkamug. 
She  may  not  be  numbered  among  the  great  beauties  of  the 
world;  nevertheless  she  is  an  attractive  squaw, — a  very 
honest  bit  of  flat-faced  prettiness  in  the  wilderness." 

About  three  miles  from  the  clearing  is  a  sheet  of  water 
called  Metallak  Pond  which  is  a  great  place  for  game. 
Ducks  of  several  kinds,  deer  and  caribou,  and  sometimes 
moose,  are  quite  plenty  about  the  shores  of  this  pond.  A 
trail  runs  from  the  clearing  to  this  pond.  It  starts  just 
bej'ond  where  the  barns  stood,  and  follows  up  the  brook  on 
the  right-hand  side  for  some  distance.  When  you  reach  the 
place  where  the  brook  divides,  follow  the  left-hand  branch 
and  you  will  reach  the  jDond.  But  the  path  is  overgrown 
with  bushes  in  many  places,  and  you  will  find  it  a  hard  jaunt. 
A  little  above  Metallak  Point  a  stream  runs  into  the  lake, 
known  as  Metallak  Erook.  This  is  one  of  the  best  trout 
streams  about  the  lakes,  and  fish  are  taken  in  it  weighing 
from  half  a  pound  to  two  jDOunds.  It  furnishes  excellent 
sport  in  July  and  August,  a  time  when  fishing  is  dull  on  the 
lakes.  The  places  to  secure  the  larger  fish  are  several  pools 
that  are  situated  quite  a  distance  up  the  brook,  about  five 
miles  from  its  mouth,  on  the  right-hand  branch.  Gentlemen 
who  have  fished  this  brook  have  usually  been  very  successful 
at  these  deep  holes. 

Passing  this  stream  you  will  notice  Black  Point  on  the 
right.  This  was  formerly  thickly  wooded,  but  Mr.  Whitney 
had  it  cleared,  in  order  to  obtain  a  more  extended  view  from 
his  camp.  Beyond  the  point,  our  course  lies  between  Ship 
Island  on  the  right,  and  Half  Moon  Island  on  the  left,  both 
of  which  are  now  mostly  submerged  a  good  part  of  the  time. 
Beyond  the  Islands,  to  jonv  right,  can  be  seen  Camp 
Whitney,  situated  in  a  charming  locality,  at  the  mouth  of 
Mosquito  Brook  which  empties  into  the  lake.  In  the  spring 
and  summer  small  trout  are  taken  a  short  distance  up  this 
brook.    During  September  the  fishing  ofi"  the  mouth  of  the 


114  FAREAU'S  ILLUS'JT.ATED  GUIDE  TO 

brook  is  generally  excellent.  In  the  month  of  December,  a 
few  years  ago,  Harvey  Newton,  of  Andover,  who  was  then 
in  charge  of  Camp  Whitncj',  shot  a  caribou  that  w'as  swim- 
ming across  the  lake,  and  still  later  in  the  season  he  saw  a 
herd  of  nineteen  on  the  ice  near  the  camp. 

One  morning  in  the  fall  Captain  Cole,  the  old  and  valued 
Superintendent  of  Camp  Whitney,  stepped  out  on  the  piazza, 
and  was  surprised  to  see  a  magnificent  caribou  walk  out  of 
the  woods  on  the  i)oint  above  the  mouth  of  Mosquito  Brook. 
The  animal  stood  upon  the  shore  a  moment,  looking  about 
cautiously,  and  then  stepped  into  the  water  and  waded 
across  the  mouth  of  the  brook.  He  followed  the  sand-bar  at 
the  entrance,  which  was  covered  with  water  about  two  feet 
deep.  Eeaching  the  beach  directly  in  front  of  the  camp,  he 
paced  leisurely  along,  stopping  occasional!}^  to  look  around. 
This  was  too  much  for  the  captain.  To  be  defied  in  this 
manner  by  one  of  the  largest  caribou  he  had  ever  seen  was 
more  than  human  flesh  and  blood  could  endure.  The  cax^tain 
hurried  into  the  house,  and  upstairs,  where,  at  that  time 
unfortunately,  the  fire-arms  all  were,  caught  up  a  rifle, 
hastily  loaded  it,  and  rushed  down  to  the  piazza.  But  the 
game  had  flown,  or,  in  other  words,  walked  oft",  and  the  last 
the  captain  saw  of  the  animal,  was  when  he  turned  partly 
round,  just  on  the  edge  of  the  woods  south  of  the  clearing, 
and  shook  his  head,  as  much  as  to  say,  "Good  day,  sir!  Did 
you  think  I  was  such  a  fool  as  to  stand  on  the  beach  until 
you  were  ready  to  shoot  me?''  The  captain  sighed,  stepped 
back  into  camp,  and  set  the  rifle  behind  the  door,  where  it 
could  be  reached  a  little  quicker  in  future.  The  next  day 
the  cai^tain  and  myself  examined  the  print  of  the  animal's 
hoofs  on  the  beach,  and  found  they  would  measure  over  a 
foot  from  the  back  part  of  the  dew  claw  to  the  front  part  of 
the  hoof. 

Camp  "Whitney  fronts  the  lake  and  stands  about  eight  rods 
from  shore.  From  it  the  eye  takes  in  the  whole  upper  part 
of  the  lake,  with  its  winding  and  irregular  shores.  The 
main  building  is  thirty  by  fifty  feet  on  the  ground,  two 
stories  and  a  half  high,  and  covered  with  a  sharp  pitch  roof, 


THE  AXDROSCOGGEN"  LAIvES.  115 

and  attached  is  an  L  nearly  as  large,  of  recent  construction. 
An  eight-feet  wide  iDiazza,  with  its  sloping  roof,  extends  the 
entire  distance  in  front,  and  on  the  south  side,  furnishing  a 
delightful  place  for  promenading  and  lounging. 

In-doors,  on  the  lower  floor,  in  front,  is  the  sitting  and 
dining-room  combined,  a  generous  apartment  over  twenty- 
eight  feet  square.  A  space  five  feet  wide,  directly  back  of 
the  sitting-room,  is  divided  into  a  closet,  a  i3antry,  and  stair- 
way leading  to  the  chambers  on  the  second  floor,  all  of  which 
are  accessible  from  the  sitting-room.  The  kitchen  takes  up 
the  remainder  of  the  first  floor.  There  is  also  an  excellent 
cellar.  On  the  north  side  of  the  sitting-room  is  an  enormous 
brick  fireplace,  that  will  take  in  at  one  mouthful  a  good  half 
cord  of  wood.  The  room  is  filled  with  comfortable,  and 
what  in  some  cases  might  be  termed  luxurious,  furniture  for 
a  camp  in  the  backwoods.  On  one  side  is  a  well-filled  li- 
brary, containing,  beside  works  of  fiction,  travel,  and  adven- 
ture, all  of  the  best  known  books  on  sporting  matters.  Over 
the  fire  place  is  a  rack  made  of  deer's  feet,  elegantly 
mounted,  on  which,  in  the  fishing-season,  the  rods  are  hung 
when  not  in  use,  and  the  walls  are  decorated  with  pictures 
and  sets  of  mounted  deer  and  caribou  horns.  The  whole 
camp  is  plastered,  and  is  painted  inside  and  out.  In  the  fall 
of  1881  Mr.  Whitney  erected  near  the  main  camp  a  neat  little 
cottage  for  his  guides  and  servants,  a  store-house  and  wood- 
house.  The  laud  south  of  the  camp  was  put  in  an  improved 
condition  by  a  landscape  gardener,  who  made  several  flow^er- 
beds,  and  set  out  a  number  of  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs. 
A  handsome  granite  wall  was  erected  on  the  north  side  of 
the  shore,  to  resist  the  encroachments  of  the  lake,  which  in 
northwest  gales  was  disposed  to  destroy  too  much  of  the 
land  in  front  of  the  camp.  A  well-filled  ice-house  and  a 
large  new  boat-house,  containing  half-a-dozen  boats  of 
various  descriptions,  stand  near  the  camj).  Mr.  Whitney  has 
also  a  very  handsome  centre-board  cat-rigged  sail-boat,  that 
has  proven  a  very  fast  craft  for  one  of  her  size.  Not  con- 
tented with  this  however,  he  now  has  a  very  fine  steam-yacht, 
35  feet  long,  superbh'  fitted  up,  and  combining  every  comfort 


116  THE  ANDEOSCOGGIX  LAIvES. 

for  a  pleasure  cruise.  She  is  called  the  "Helen"  and  is 
one  of  the  fastest  steamers  on  the  lake.  This  beautiful 
steamer  is  kept  by  the  owner  entirely  for  the  use  of  himself 
and  his  guests,  and  does  not  interfere  with  the  business  of 
the  steamboat  company  on  the  lakes.  A  trail  through  the 
woods  leads  to  Trout  Cove  on  Lake  Mooselucmaguntic,  a 
mile  and  a  third  distant  from  camp.  At  the  cove  Mr.  "Whit- 
ney has  another  boat-house,  containing  four  fishing-boats. 
A  second  trail,  running  through  the  woods  in  a  different 
direction,  leads  to  the  Upper  Dam,  two  miles  north  of  the 
camp. 

The  camp  was  christened  Camp  Whitney,  in  honor  of  its 
principal  owner,  J.  Parker  Whitney,  Esq.,  formerly  of 
Boston,  but  now  a  resident  of  San  Francisco.  Mr.  Whitney 
visits  the  camp  every  season,  and  has  only  missed  one  year 
out  of  the  last  twenty-three,  being  one  of  the  oldest  habitues 
of  these  lakes.  He  has  fished  some  forty  other  lakes  in 
Maine,  as  well  as  the  waters  of  Colorado  and  the  Pacific 
Coast,  and  has  taken  many  a  basket  from  the  streams  of 
England  and  lochs  of  Scotland.  He  has  bagged  game  in  all 
these  places,  and  shot  twenty-three  deer,  as  well  as  other 
large  animals.  He  has  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  interesting 
anecdotes  at  his  tongue's  end,  and  is  an  entertaining  com- 
panion. 

Capt.  Benjamin  Cole,  of  Byron,  Maine,  one  of  the  oldest 
and  best  guides  in  the  lake  region,  was  superintendent  of  the 
camp  for  nine  years.  He  resigned  his  position  in  the  spring 
of  1878.  He  was  an  excellent  fisherman,  a  fine  cook,  and  a 
capital  fellow,  and  will  long  be  remembered  by  the  visitors 
at  Camp  Whitney. 

During  the  winter  of  1882-3  Mr.  Whitney  had  built,  at  the 
large  Richardson  Pond,  a  very  comfortable  log-camp  cook- 
house and  boat-house,  for  the  use  of  himself  and  friends, 
when  fishing  and  hunting  in  that  locality.  The  fishing  at 
the  ponds  during  the  summer  is  unusually  good,  and  one  can 
always  be  sure  of  a  catch  there  when  the  lake  fishing  is  dull. 
Although  not  absolutely  necessary,  a  small  boat  on  the  pond 
is  desirable,  as  it  assures  better  fishing,  and  as  the  distance 


J 


FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO  117 

from  the  lake  to  the  pond  is  only  a  mile  and  a  half  by  a  good 
path,  two  persons  can  easily  carry  a  light  boat  to  the  pond 
in  about  an  hour. 

At  Whitney's  the  lal^e  makes  a  bend  to  the  north-west ;  so 
we  cliauge  our  course  a  little  to  the  left,  and  a  mile  farther 
on  pass  the  New  Boston  Club  Camp.  The  Boston  Club  has 
been  one  of  the  institutions  at  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  for 
many  years.  During  the  fall  of  1877  the  club  was  reorgan- 
ized, many  of  tlie  old  members  having  died,  and  the  vacan- 
cies were  filled  by  newly  elected  members, — the  club  now 
numbering  twenty.  In  the  spring  of  1878  a  new  building 
was  erected,  a  short  distance  below  Cami)  Bellevue,  more 
roomy  and  commodious  than  the  old  camp.  This  is  known 
as  Camp  Aziscohos.  On  account  of  the  rise  in  the  water,  by 
the  rebuilding  of  the  old  Middle  Dam,  this  camp,  during  the 
fall  of  1880,  was  moved  back  some  distance  farther  from  the 
lake,  and  two  new  buildings  were  added.  The  whole  were 
tastily  painted  outside,  and  other  improvements  have  since 
been  made,  making  this  at  tlie  present  time  one  of  the  hand- 
somest and  most  convenient  camps  in  the  region.  Hales  W. 
Suter,  Esq.,  a  iDrominent  Boston  lawyer,  who  spends  a 
portion  of  each  summer  with  his  family  at  this  camj3,  is  the 
master-spirit  of  the  Boston  Club;  and  it  is  in  a  great 
measure  due  to  his  untiring  exertions  that  the  club  are  now 
in  possession  of  their  new  and  comfortable  quarters. 

A  few  moments'  sail  from  here  brings  us  to  the  wharf,  at 
the  Upper  Dam  Landing,  belonging  to  the  Union  Water 
Power  Company,  where  the  steamer  stops.  It  is  a  few  rods 
to  the  riglit  of  Camp  Bellevue,  the  property  of  Messrs. 
McKean,  Borie  and  Betton,  of  Philadelphia.  The  cluster  of 
buildings  forming  this  camp  was  also  moved  farther  back 
from  the  water,  and  very  much  improved,  during  tlie  fall  of 
1880.  During  the  summer  of  1882  Mr.  Borie  erected  a  new 
and  attractive  camp,  that  was  very  nicely  furnibhed.  It 
stands  fronting  the  lake,  in  a  line  with  the  other  buildings. 
Mr.  Thomas  McKean,  one  of  the  owners  of  Camp  Bellevue, 
bought  a  steam-yacht  last  summer,  and  had  it  thoroughly 
overhauled,  and  put  in  fine  condition,  and  it  is  one  of  the 


118 


TI I K  AM) KU.SL OU C 1  \    LAKES. 


prettiest  of  the  fleet  of  steamers  on  the  Eichardson  Lakes. 
It  is  used  as  a  pleasure  boat  by  the  owner,  who  also  allows 
his  friends  to  ride  in  it  while  visitino;  at  the  eauip. 

Leaving  the  steamer,  a  short  Avalk  brings  you  to  the  L^pper 
Dam,  and  crossing  this,  you  reach  the  camp  which  sets  just 
beyond  the  dam,  and  faces  south.  There  is  a  charge  on  this 
carry  of  $1.00  per  load,  for  all  baggage  transferred  by  team 
between  the  steamers,  as  the  carting  is  done  by  the  Union 
AVater  Power  Company. 


?3 


> 


00 

OS 


I.I '  , 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


W\t  '%flf^  J)Hm  nnix  i\t^  \ixi\nr^sm  fmii^. 


rllE  old  camps  at  the  Upper  Dam  are  among 
the   things  that  are  past,   having    outlived 
their  day  of  usefulness.     The  new  hotel  built 
during  the    winter  and  spring    of   1882,   by 
the  Union  Water  Power  Company  of  Lewis- 
«,»««*»-«& />..^      ton.  Me.,  and  opened  in  July  of   that  year, 
stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  camps,   facing 
the  dam.     It  is  a  picturesque  two-story  structure  of  modern 
architecture,  and  is  undoubtedly  the  finest  hotel  in  the  lake 
region.     A  broad  i^iazza  extends  along  the  entire  front  of  the 
house  and  contains  a  row  of  settees.     The  otRce   is  a  large, 
pleasant  room,  and  has  a  huge  fireplace,  in    which  four-foot 
wood  is  burned.     The  sitting-room  in  the  western  cami)  has 
another  large  fireplace,  which  is  the  largest  in  any  of  the 
houses  about  the  lakes,   and  is  also  the  most   ornamental. 
The  interior  of  the  hotel  is  mostly  finished  in  natural  woods, 
sheathed  and  oiled,  and  both  the  inside  and  outside  of  the 
house  are  very  tastily  painted.    There  is  a  lawn  in  front  of 
the  house   ornamented   with   flower  beds,   the    whole    sur- 
rounded by  a  neat  fence  giving  it  a  more  civilized  appearance 
than  one  usually  meets  with  in  a  forest  camp.     The  hotel 
has  good  accommodations  for  seventy-five  guests,  and  the 
terms  are  .$2,00  per  day  to  the  i^ublic  and  $1.50  j)er  day  for 
guides.    Baggage    for  the  guests  of   the  house  is  brought 
from  and  taken  to  the  steamers  free  of  charge.     A  post-office 
is  established  in  the  house  during  the  summer  season,   and 
daily  mails  are  received. 

Beside  the  hotel,  the  companv  have  erected  several  other 

121 


Rapids  below  Upper  Dam  and  Aziscohos  Mountain. 


THE  AXDEOSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  123 

buildings,  including  a  large  barn,  a   store-house,  ice-house, 
and  saw-mill. 

The  company  are  also  provided  with  a  large  number  of 
row-boats,  which  are  let  to  tourists  or  sportsmen  at  50  cents 
per  day. 

Parties  wishing  to  engage  rooms  in  advance  should  address 
John  Chadwick,  Superintendent,  Upper  Dam,  Oxford  Co., 
Maine,  via  Andover. 

The  old  Boston  Club  Camp,  standing  on  the  south  side  of 
the  dam,  is  owned  by  the  company,  and  is  used  as  a  house 
for  the  workmen. 

The  Upper  Dam  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  substan- 
tially built  in  the  State ;  it  was  commenced  in  1845,  and  took 
two  years  to  build  it.  It  is  built  of  the  heaviest  kind  of 
timber,  bolted  with  iron,  ballasted  with  immense  rocks,  and 
is  fifteen  hundred  feet  long.  In  the  spring,  when  the  water 
is  held  back  for  the  i^urpose  of  running  the  logs  down  the 
Androscoggin,  the  pressure  against  it  is  immense.  It  is 
carefully  watched  day  and  night,  and  there  is  no  possibility 
of  its  ever  being  swept  away.  It  is  so  constructed  that, 
should  any  leak  hajDpen  underneath,  the  stones  with  which 
the  piers  are  ballasted  would  drop  down  into  the  holes  worn 
by  the  water  and  stop  the  leak.  There  is  no  doubt  but  that 
the  strength  of  the  dam  is  fully  equal  to  any  strain  that  can 
be  brought  to  bear  on  it.  The  company,  in  order  to  get  an 
idea  of  the  consequence  of  a  "break,"  one  spring  had  all  the 
gates  lifted  half  up  with  a  full  head  of  water  on.  The  water 
started  from  the  dam  in  a  volume  of  about  twelve  feet  deep 
and  a  hundred  feet  wide.  The  result  of  the  exi^eriment  was, 
that  the  two  lakes  below  the  Upper  Dam  were  filled,  the 
water  flowing  back  into  the  woods,  at  a  depth  in  some  places 
of  four  feet.  The  suri^lus  poured  over  the  Middle  Dam  at 
the  foot  of  Lake  "Welokennebacook,  without  starting  a 
timber,  filled  the  Umbagog  Lake,  and  flowed  through  the 
Errol  Dam  six  miles  below  the  outlet  of  L'mbagog,  causing 
but  little  inconvenience,  and  no  damage.  Allowing  that  the 
dam  should  ever  go  out,  the  lakes  being  so  widely  separated, 
there  would  be  so  much  water  lost  in  flowing  back  as  to 


124  FxVRRAE'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

materially  lessen  the  force  and  depth  of  the  body  of  water 
in  motion,  and  hence  no  disastrous  result  could  possibly 
happen.  Some  years,  logs  to  the  value  of  $2,000,000  are  run 
through  this  dam,  and  down  the  Androscoggin  River  to 
market. 

Dui'ing  1885,  '86,  and  "87,  the  Upper  Dam  has  been  entirely 
rebuilt  and  enlarged,  the  wooden  portion  of  the  dam  being 
covered  by  a  neat  gate  house. 

The  illustration  in  our  book  is  taken  from  below  the  dam 
in  the  month  of  September,  when  the  water  was  low.  "When 
the  water  is  raised  to  drive  the  logs  it  makes  a  difference  of 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  the  depth  of  the  lakes.  The 
shores  of  the  lakes  are  much  iirettier  when  the  water  is  low 
than  when  it  is  high ;  for  during  the  high  water  many  little 
points  and  curves  in  the  shore,  and  all  the  beautiful  sand 
beaches,  are  entirely  obliterated. 

The  view  from  the  Upper  Dam,  down  the  river,  is  very 
fine.     (See  illustration  on  page  122.) 

If  persons  visit  the  lakes,  especially  for  fishing,  they 
should  go  either  in  June  or  the  early  part  of  July,  when  the 
water  is  high ;  but  if  they  wish  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  beauties  of  the  place,  they  should  make  their  trip  in 
August  or  September.  Then  the  varied  outline  of  the 
shores,  the  little  nooks  and  coves,  may  be  seen  to  their  best 
advantage,  and  you  experience  some  consolation  in  the  fact 
that  if  the  trout  are  not  so  i:)lenty  as  in  June  or  July,  they 
are  considerably  larger. 

Some  of  the  best  fishing-places  at  the  Upper  Dam  are  on 
the  piers  and  apron  of  the  dam,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
a  short  distance  below  the  dam,  and  Trout  Cove,  about  half 
a  mile  above  the  dam.  It  will  also  pay  you  to  take  a  row- 
boat  or  the  steamer,  and  go  up  to  the  head  of  the  lake  and 
throw  a  fly  around  the  mouth  of  Richardson  Brook  and 
Beaver  Brook,  and  in  the  West  Arm  behind  the  islands. 
There  is  also  good  fishing-ground  around  a  sunken  reef  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  it  being  a  favorite  resort  for  trout.  The 
reef  is  located  about  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  nearly 
opposite  of  a  long  point  making  out  from  the  eastern  shore. 


12G  FAPJIAU'S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 

A  tall  pine  formerly  stood  on  this  point,  and  was  an  excel- 
lent mark  for  the  fishing  ground ;  but  some  vandal  has  cut 
it  down.  There  is  no  better  spring  fishing  in  the  entire  lake 
region  than  that  about  the  head  of  Lake  Molechunkamunk, 
as  sportsmen  who  have  tried  it  know. 

If  you  wish  to  go  beyond  the  Upper  Dam  you  take  passage 
on  the  little  steam-launch  Metalluck,  which  connects  regu- 
larly with  the  steamers  Welokennebacook  or  Molechunk- 
amunk. A  team  can  be  hired  at  the  Upper  Dam  Camp,  to 
haul  your  baggage  across  the  carry,  at  a  charge  of  $1.00  per 
load.  For  several  years  the  Upper  Dam  Camp  has  been  in 
charge  of  Mr.  John  Chadwick,  who  has  performed  his  duties, 
we  believe,  in  a  manner  satisfactory  both  to  his  employers 
and  the  public. 

A  number  of  years  ago  the  lumber  company  employed  a 
cook  here  who  M'as  a  character  in  his  way.  He  was  a  French 
Canadian,  Joseph  Bourgogne  by  name,  and  was  a  splendid 
cook.  The  writer  remembers  one  never-to-be-forgotten  Sun- 
day, when,  in  company  with  four  other  gentlemen,  we  rowed 
to  the  Upper  Dam  from  the  Richardson  Farm,  where  we 
were  "camping-out,"'  and  ordered  Joe  to  get  us  up  a  dinner. 
The  meal  was  furnished,  Joe  intending  it  also  for  the  men 
who  were  working  about  the  dam.  Our  party  sat  down  to 
the  table,  and  made  such  havoc  with  the  eatables  as  to 
astonish  Joe,  who  soon  began  to  cry  out,  '-'-SacreP''  from  be- 
tween his  set  teeth  at  each  new  order.  The  climax  was 
reached  when  we  went  to  feed  a  dog  accompanying  us. 
AYith  horror  depicted  on  his  countenance,  Joe  rushed  to  the 
table  and  exclaimed,  "J/o?i  Dicu !  Don't  feed  de  dog;  my 
men  have  no  had  their  dinner  yet!"  and,  laughing,  we  left 
the  table. 

In  making  a  trip  across  the  lakes,  some  years  ago,  Theo- 
dore Winthrop  fell  in  with  "Joe,"  and  thus  relates  his  expe- 
rience : — 

"Our  new  friends,  luxurious  fellows,  had  been  favored  by 
Fate  with  a  French-Canadian  cook,  himself  a  Three  of 
Freres  Frovinciaux.  Such  was  his  reputation.  We  saw  by 
the  eye  of  him,  and  by  his  nose,  formed  for  comprehending 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIX  LAKES.  127 

fragrances,  and  by  the  lines  of  refined  taste  converging  from 
his  whole  face  towards  his  mouth,  that  he  was  one  to  detect 
and  sniff  gastronomic  possibilities  in  the  humblest  materials. 
Joseph  Bourgogue  looked  the  cook.  His  phiz  gave  us  Faith 
in  him ;  eyes  small  and  discriminating ;  nose  upturned, 
nostrils  exi^anded  and  receptive ;  mouth  saucy  in  the  literal 
sense.  His  voice,  moreover  was  a  cook's, — thick  in  articula- 
tion, dulcet  in  tone.  He  spoke  as  if  he  deemed  that  a  throat 
was  created  for  better  uses  than  laboriously  manufacturing 
words, — as  if  the  object  of  the  mouth  were  to  receive  tribute, 
not  to  give  commands, — as  if  that  pink  stalactite,  his  palate, 
■svere  more  used  by  delicacies  entering  than  by  rough  words 
or  sorrv  sighs  going  out  of  the  inner  caverns. 

"AMien  we  find  the  right  man  in  the  right  i^lace  our  minds 
are  at  ease.  The  future  becomes  satisfactory  as  the  past. 
Anticipation  is  glad  certainty,  not  anxious  doubt.  Trusting 
our  gastronomic  welfare  fully  to  this  great  artist,  we  tried 
for  fish  below  the  dam.  Only  petty  Ashlings,  weighing 
ounces,  took  the  bit  between  their  teeth.  We  therefore 
dofied  the  fisherman  and  donned  the  artist  and  poet,  and 
chased  our  own  fancies  down  the  dark  whirlpooling  river, 
along  its  dell  of  evergreen,  now  lurid  with  the  last  glows  of 
twilight.  Iglesias  and  I  continued  dreamily  gazing  down 
the  thoroughfare  toward  MoUychunkamug  only  a  certain 
length  of  time.  Man  keeps  up  his  highest  elations  hardly 
longer  than  a  danseuse  can  poise  in  a  pose.  To  be  conscious 
of  the  highest  beauty  demands  an  involuntary  intentness  of 
observation  so  fanatically  eager  that  presently  we  are  pros- 
trated and  need  stimulants.  And  just  as  we  sensitively  felt 
this  exhaustion  and  this  need,  we  heard  a  suggestive  voice 
calling  us  from  the  front-door  of  the  mansion-house  of 
Damville,  and  'Supper'  was  the  cry. 

''A  call  to  the  table  may  quell  and  may  awaken  romance. 
Wlien,  in  some  abode  of  poetized  luxury,  the  'silver  knell' 
sounds  musically  six,  and  a  door  opens  toward  the  glitter 
that  is  not  pewter  and  Wedgewood,  and,  with  a  being  fair 
and  changeful  as  a  sunset  cloud  upon  my  arm,  I  move  under 
the  archway  of   blue  curtains  toward  the  asj)hodel  and  a 


128  FAllRAES  ILLUSTEAl'ED  GUIDE   TO 

nectar,  then,  O  reader  I  O  friend  1  romance  crowds  into  my 
heart,  as  color  and  fragrance  crowd  into  a  rose-bud.  Joseph 
Bourgogne,  cook  of  Damville  on  Moosetocmaguntic,  could 
not  offer  us  such  substitute  for  {esthetic  emotions.  But  his 
voice  of  an  artist  created  a  winning  picture  half  veiled  with 
mists,  evanescent  and  affectionate,  such  as  linger  fondly  over 
Pork-and-Beans. 

Fancied  joy,  soon  to  become  fact.  We  entered  the  barrack. 
Beneath  its  smoking  roof-tree  was  a  pervading  aroma ;  near 
the  centre  of  that  aroma,  a  table  dim  with  wefts  of  incense; 
at  the  innermost  centre  of  that  aroma  and  that  incense,  and 
whence  those  visible  and  viewless  fountains  streamed,  with 
their  source, — a  dish  of  Pork-and-Beans. 

"Topmostly  this.  There  were  lesser  viands,  butresses  to 
this  towering  triumph.  Minor  smokes  from  minor  censers. 
A  circle  of  little  craterlings  about  the  great  crater, — of  little 
fiery  cones  about  that  great  volcanic  dome  in  the  midst, 
unopened,  and  bursting  with  bounty.  We  sat  down,  and  one 
of  the  red-shirted  boldly  crushed  the  smoking  dome.  The 
brave  feJlow  plunged  in  with  a  spoon  and  heaped  our  plates. 

'■'■A  priori  we  had  deduced  Joseph  Bourgogne's  results  from 
inspection  of  Joseph.  Xow  we  could  reason  back  from  one 
experiment  inn  crucis  cooked  by  him.  Effect  and  cause  are 
worthy  of  each  other. 

"The  average  world  must  be  revenged  upon  Genius. 
Greatness  must  be  punished  by  itself  or  another.  Joseph 
Bourgogne  was  no  exception  to  the  laws  of  misery  of 
Genius.  He  had  a  distressing  trait,  whose  exhibition  tickled 
the  dura  ilia  of  the  reapers  of  the  forest.  Joseph,  iDoet;-cook, 
was  sensitive  to  new  ideas.  This  sensitiveness  to  the  pre- 
emptory  thought  made  him  the  slave  of  the  wags  of  Dam- 
ville. Whenever  he  had  anything  in  his  hands,  at  a  stern, 
quick  command  he  would  drop  it  nervously.  Did  he 
approach  the  table  with  a  second  dish  of  pork  and  beans, — 
a  yellow  dish  of  beans,  browned  delicately  as  a  Sevres  vase, 
— then  would  some  full-fed  rogue,  waiting  until  Joseph  was 
bending  over  some  devoted  head,  say  shar])ly,  'Drop  that, 
Joseph  I* — whereupon  down  went  the    dish    and    contents, 


o 
o 

c 


W 
o 

>■ 

H 


o 

G 

CO 

o 
O 

CD 

o 

O 


130  FAllRAlf  i5  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

emporridgiug  the  poll  aud  person  of  the  luckless  wight 
beneath.  Always,  were  his  burden  pitcher  of  water,  armful 
of  wood,  axe  dangerous  to  toes,  mirror,  or  pudding,  still 
followed  the  same  result.  And  when  the  poet-cook  had  done 
the  mischief,  he  would  stand  shuddering  at  his  work  of  ruin, 
and  sigh,  and  curse  his  too  sensitive  nature." 

Camp  Prospect,  the  summer  retreat  of  W.  J.  Reynolds, 
Esq.,  of  Edgartown,  Mass.,  who  has  spent  many  seasons  at 
the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  is  situated  on  a  point  running  out 
from  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  about  half  a  mile  above 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Mr.  Reynolds  iDuts  in  an  appearance 
at  camp  several  times  during  each  season,  and  has  proved 
himself  an  expert  angler  and  skillful  huntei". 

Camp  Stewart  was  built  in  the  summer  of  1S82,  taking  its 
name  from  L.  M.  Stewart,  Esq.,  of  Minneapolis,  Minn.  Mr. 
Stewart  camped  in  that  vicinity  in  the  autumn  of  1882,  with 
a  party  of  friends,  among  them  W.  K.  Moody  of  the  Boston 
Herald  editorial  staff,  C.  H.  Johnson,  of  Somerville,  Mass., 
and  Prof.  J.  F.  Moody  of  Xorth  Brighton,  Me.  The  camp 
was  built  by  Messrs.  Moodj''  and  Johnson,  but  each  of  the 
other  gentlemen  are  interested.  Within  the  past  year  3Ir. 
Geo.  T.  Freeman  of  Boston  has  become  interested  in  the 
camp.  It  is  a  beautiful  location,  near  the  head  of  the  lake, 
and  on  ground  so  high  as  to  give  a  fine  view  of  the  moun- 
tains to  the  west.  White  birch  and  old  forest  giants,  100 
feet  in  height,  surround  the  lodge. 

Birch  Lodge  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Molechunka- 
munk,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  camps  in  the  lake  region. 
The  main  house  is  a  frame  cottage,  thirty-five  feet  front,  and 
is  connected  by  a  piazza  with  a  frame  building,  used  espec- 
ially for  a  dining-room,  which  is  very  handsomely  finished 
in  natural  woods,  and  a  log  kitchen,  about  twenty-four  feet 
square.  The  x^iazzas  surround  the  house  on  three  sides,  and 
furnish  a  promenade  of  nearly  one  bundled  and  fiity  feet. 
The  interior  is  divided  into  sitting  and  sleeping  rooms.  The 
outbuildings  are  a  boat-house,  ice-house,  and  guide-house. 
The  establishment  is  well  equipped  with  boats,  including  a 
small  steam  launch,  and  there  is  a  safe  landing  accessible  at 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  131 

all  times  in  the  cove  on  the  west  side.  Boats  also  land  in 
fair  weather  in  front  of  the  house.  The  forest  surrounds 
the  building  on  all  sides,  except  in  front,  where  it  has  been 
judiciously  thinned  out,  giving  from  the  piazza  a  superb 
view  of  both  shores  and  the  entire  lensrth  of  the  lake  and 
of  the  Elephant  Mountain,  in  the  distance.  This  view 
has  been  painted  by  Mr.  W.  H.  Hilliard,  a  well-known 
artist  of  Boston,  and  the  painting  was  much  admired 
when  on  exhibition  in  Boston,  in  the  winter  of  1878-9. 
This  is  probably  the  most  complete  camp  in  arrangement 
and  equipment    of    any  in  the  lake  country. 

No  tourist  who  desires  to  know  all  the  beauties  of  the  lake 
should  fail  to  see  the  view  from  Birch  Lodge. 

The  spring  fishing  around  Birch  Lodge  is  believed  to  be 
the  finest  on  the  lower  lakes.  Some  of  the  largest  trout  on 
record  have  been  taken  from  the  lake  near  the  house,  and 
good  sport  can  always  be  found  in  Hichardson  Brook,  which 
flows  into  the  lake  a  few  rods  to  the  east.  There  are 
some  large  trout  also  in  the  West  Arm  and  Beaver  Brook, 
both  of  which  places  are  near  by. 

Messrs.  McKean  of  Camp  Belle vue,  and  Whitney  of  Camp 
"Whitney,  have  greatly  improved  the  path  to  the  Richardson 
Ponds,  which  begins  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  at  the  mouth 
of  the  brook,  and  ladies  can  now  make  the  trip  to  the  ponds 
without  difficulty.  A  fine  boat-house  and  camp  combined, 
the  joint  property  of  Messrs.  McKean  and  Borie,  has  lately 
been  built  at  the  second  pond.  The  fly-fishing  at  the  i)onds 
has  been  very  good  the  past  year. 

Several  very  fine  excursions  may  be  made  from  the  Upper 
Dam,  which  is  the  centre  of  the  entire  lake  region,  and  where 
some  of  the  sportsmen  stop. 

Take  a  row-boat  and  pull  up  to  the  mouth  of  the  Richardson, 
or  Mill  Brook,  a  little  trout  stream  at  the  head  of  the  lake ;  or, 
what  is  preferable,  take  passage  by  steamer,  a  distance  of  three 
miles,  and  land  just  below  the  old  dam,  on  the  right-hand 
shore,  by  two  large  pines.  This  dam  was  built  by  Mr.  Rich- 
ardson years  ago,  and  a  grist  mill  formerly  stood  here,  but 
it  has  long  since  gone  to  ruins.    Then  a  walk  through  the 


132  F.VP.RAR-S  U.LUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 

woods  of  a  mile,  over  a  well-worn  trail,  brings  you  to  the 
first  and  smallest  of  the  West 

Richardson  Ponds. 

This  sheet  of  water  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile  long,  and 
is  nearly  circular  in  shape.  The  bottom  is  muddy  in  some 
parts,  and  pebblj^  in  others,  and  the  shores  are  lined  with 
grasses  and  lily-pads,  furnishing  excellent  feeding-ground 
for  deer,  which  are  plentj^  in  the  vicinity.  This  is  also  an 
excellent  pond  for  ducks,  and  many  are  shot  there  after  the 
first  of  September. 

The  trail  crosses  the  stream  at  the  outlet  of  the  small 
pond,  and  half  a  mile  beyond  you  reach  the  larger  iDond,  a 
sylvan  gem  decorating  the  bosom  of  the  wilderness.  Its 
situation  is  romantic  and  picturesque  in  the  extreme,  lying 
as  it  does  at  the  base  of  Mount  Observatory,  whose  wooded 
crest  towers  for  1,500  feet  above  it.  A  little  farther  south, 
Aziscohos  Mountain  raises  its  bare  and  ragged  top  still  higher, 
its  formation,  color,  and  general  appearance  strongly  resem- 
bling Mount  "Washington.  Our  engraving,  on  the  following 
page,  shows  a  part  of  this  pond,  with  the  camp  and  boat- 
house  of  Messrs.  McKean  and  Boric.  Thomas  McKean, 
Esq.,  has  also  built  a  pretty  camp  a  short  distance  back  from 
the  shore  of  the  Pond,  known  as  the  "Eoost." 

Several  small  islands  in  the  f)ond  add  materially  to  its 
beauty.  The  shores  are  heavily  wooded,  thus  forming  an 
excellent  cover  for  game ;  deer  and  caribou  may  always  be 
found  there  by  a  person  who  is  at  all  familiar  with  hunting. 
A  large  number  of  deer  are  shot  on  the  shores  of  this  pond 
every  season.  They  are  hunted  at  night,  with  a  boat,  in 
which  is  a  jack  securely  fastened  at  the  bow,  which  throws 
a  light  ahead,  attracting  the  curiosity  of  the  deer,  until  the 
hunter  has  a  chance  to  fire. 

The  Richardson  Ponds,  while  being  in  favor  with  those 
who  depend  on  their  rifle  for  their  sport,  are  also  attracting 
the  attention  of  fishermen,  and  parties  stopping  at  the  Upper 
Dam  should  be  sure  to  give  these  ponds  a  trial  before  they 
leave.      Persons  who  have  visited  these  ponds  in    former 


,rife   „::« 


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134 


FAKRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 


seasons  have  had  fine  luck  fishing,  and  the  writer  saw  one 
very  handsome  trout  taken  there  with  a  fly,  bj^  J.  H.  Smith, 
Esq.,  of  New  York  city,  that  weighed  six  and  a  half  pounds. 
Mr.  Smith  also  took  several  others  of  from  two  to  four 
pounds'  weight.  Messrs.  McKean,  Borie  and  Betton,  pro- 
prietors of  Camp  Bellevue,  and  J.  P.  Whitney  of  Camp 
Whitney,  have  also  had  excellent  sport  at  the  larger  pond, 
taking  several  fine  strings  of  trout,  some  of  the  fish  weigh- 
ing four  and  five  pounds  each. 

From  the  larger  Richardson  Pond  to  the  top  of  Aziscohos 
Mountain  is  only  five  miles,  and  the  magnificent  view  to  be 
obtained  from  its  summit  well  repays  any  person  for  the  toil 
and  time  spent  in  making  the  ascent.  To  the  north-east  the 
whole  lake  country  is  spread  before  you  like  a  map,  and 
Deer  Mountain,  East  and  West  Kennebago  Mountains,  loom 
up  like  sentinels  on  duty.  To  the  west  the  Magalloway 
Settlement  lies  almost  beneath  you,  and  some  twenty  miles 
north-west  the  ragged  walls  of  Dixvilie  Notch  conceal  from 
your  sight  the  village  of  Colebrook,  which  lies  ten  miles 
beyond.  South  and  south-east  you  obtain  a  view  of  the 
Richardson  Lakes,  Lake  Umbagog,  and  the  White  Mountain 
Range,  while  towns  and  villages  dot  the  landscape  here  and 
there.  In  fact,  you  obtain  a  charming  and  varied  yiew 
whichever  way  you  turn. 

The  East  Richardson  Ponds  are  a  cluster  of  small  ponds 
lying  near  Mooselucmaguntic  Lake.  To  reach  them  you  go 
over  the  same  ground  that  jou  do  in  going  to  the  West 
Ponds,  as  far  as  the  dam  at  the  outlet  of  the  small  pond ; 
then  turn  to  the  right,  and  a  walk  of  about  a  mile  will  bring 
5'ou  to  the  first  pond.  These  ponds  are  well  stocked  with 
trout,  weighing  from  about  six  ounces  to  a  pound  and  a  half 
each.  There  are  no  boats  about  the  ponds,  which  makes  the 
fishing  somewhat  difficult.  With  an  axe  and  auger,  how- 
ever, a  raft  can  easily  be  constructed. 

The  Cranberry  Bog,  so  called, — a  small,  marshy  pond, 
noted  for  being  a  favorite  haunt  of  the  deer,  moose,  and 
caribou, — is  only  two  miles  from  the  West  Arm,  and  is  often 
visited  by  the  Nimrods  who  come  uj)  into  this  wilderness, 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIX  LAia:S.  135 

and  who  seldom  return  from  the  locality  without  a  supply  of 
venison. 

Beaver  Pond,  a  small  circular  pond,  is  reached  from  the 
West  Arm  bj^  following  up  Beaver  Brook  for  a  mile.  It 
contains  a  larije  number  of  small  brook  trout,  and  furnishes 
good  fishing  during  the  summer  months. 

In  connection  with  the  Upper  Dam  I  would  state  that 
persons  who  can  visit  this  well-known  resort  in  June  will 
see  one  of  the  most  exciting  parts  of  the  immense  lumbering 
business  that  is  carried  on  in  these  wild  regions.  The  logs 
that  are  brought  down  across  the  upper  lakes  reach  the 
Upper  Dam  generally  from  the  10th  to  the  20th  of  June. 
At  this  time  the  gates  are  all  closed  down,  and  the  sluice- 
waj''  battened  up  Mith  logs  and  planks,  holding  the  water 
above  the  dam  at  a  height  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet.  "When 
the  logs  reach  Trout  Cove  the  barricade  of  the  sluice  is  cut 
away,  and  the  water,  with  an  immense  pressure,  leaps 
through  the  sluice  with  a  roar  like  Niagara,  piling  up  at  the 
bottom  of  the  sluice  some  twenty  feet  high ;  then,  rolling 
over,  the  tumultuous  current  flows  down  the  rocky  bed  of 
the  narrow  river,  boiling  and  seething,  crested  with  white 
foam,  sweeping  everything  before  it,  until  it  pours  into  the 
lake  below.  After  the  first  onset  the  water  quiets  down  a 
little,  assuming  the  form  of  rapids,  that  will  compare  f avor- 
I  ably  with  those  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Then  comes  the 
most  dangerous  act  in  this  sensational  drama.  The  huge 
bateaux,  pulled  by  ten  or  a  dozen  stalwart  foresters,  and 
guided  by  two  others  who  must  be  very  giants  in  strength, 
stationed  in  the  bow  and  stern,  with  heavy  steering-paddles, 
cool  and  collected,  not  the  least  trace  of  fear  shadowing 
their  sunburnt  faces,  their  eyes  directed  to  the  narrow  open- 
ing ahead  through  which  they  are  to  pass,  come  sweeping 
down.  The  bateaux  usually  start  a  quarter  of  a  mile  or 
more  above  the  dam,  the  men  at  the  oars  pulling  a  long, 
powerful  stroke,  i^aying  no  attention  to  their  boat,  which  is 
guided  hj  the  steersmen  in  the  bow  and  stern,  both  of  whom 
face  down  the  river.  Aided  by  a  powerful  current,  the  boats 
have  attained  an  almost  frightful  speed  by  the  time  they 


1 


136  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

reach  the  upper  end  of  the  sluice ;  the  oars  are  trailed,  and 
like  an  arrow  from  a  bow  the  boats  shoot  into  that  narrow 
passage  which  perhaps  leads  straight  to  death.  As  it  passes 
through  you  obtain  a  glimpse  of  it  like  that  of  some  object 
seen  from  the  car-window  of  a  lightning-express  train  that 
is  traveling  fifty  miles  an  hour.  Your  eyes  follow  it  as  in  a 
second  more  it  makes  the  fearful  plunge  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  sluice,  and  you  involuntarily  hold  your  breath  as  it  darts 
into  the  boil,  ten  feet  or  more  in  height.  Rising  on  this, 
perhaps  half  filled  with  water,  the  boat  slides  over  its  crest, 
and  jumps  another  boil  of  perhaps  half  the  height  of  the  first ; 
then  the  sturdy  backwoodsmen  bend  to  their  oars  and  their 
light  crafts  shoot  down  the  rapids,  dodging  immense  boul- 
ders, jumping  minature  falls,  amid  the  din  of  the  vexed 
waters,  and  finally  emerge  on  the  broad  bosom  of  the  lake, 
safe  for  the  present.  Then  the  strained  nerves  relax,  the 
tightened  muscles  become  pliant  once  more,  and  a  deep  sigh 
of  thankfulness  wells  up  from  the  heart  of  each  of  the  crew, 
who  have  once  more  run  the  sluice  in  safety.  But  accidents 
often  happen,  sometimes  of  a  laughable  character,  and  then 
of  a  nature  to  throw  a  gloom  for  days  over  the  merry  crew 
who  follow  this  exciting  business.  Occasionally  a  boat 
cajisizes  in  the  first  boil,  and  several  of  the  crew  are 
drowned ;  or  one  strikes  a  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  rapids, 
is  stove  to  flinders  in  an  instant,  and  the  crew  are  left  in  the 
turbid  waters  to  shift  for  themselves,  when,  with  good  luck, 
they  Mill  all  reach  the  shore  and  be  subject  for  days  to  the 
good-natured  jokes  of  their  companions.  After  the  bateaux 
are  all  run  through  the  sluice  the  logs  follow.  They  pass 
through  the  sluice  singly,  in  twos  and  threes,  and  sometimes 
a  dozen  at  a  time.  Below  the  sluice  they  cut  all  sorts  of 
capers.  Some  stand  on  end,  some  are  thrown  clear  out  of 
the  water;  others  roll  over  and  over;  then  they  get  twisted 
and  snarled,  and  piled  upon  each  other,  forming  a  jam,  that 
is  only  straightened  by  the  dexterous  use  of  an  axe  in  the 
hands  of  some  red-shirted  hero ;  for  clearing  a  jam  is  one  of 
the  most  dangerous  acts  in  the  business,  and  is  really  putting 
one's  head  into  the  lion's  mouth.    To  be  at  the  Upper  Dam  in 


THE  ANDROSCOGGrN"  LAIvES. 


137 


June  and  see  the  scenes  I  have  poorly  attempted  to  describe, 
is  worth  all  the  expense  incurred  for  a  trip  there,  and  then 
you  have  the  fishing  besides. 

The  Aj'-'fishing,  which  is  considered  the  finest  sport,  does 
not  begin  till  some  time  in  June,  and  some  of  the  fishermen 
who  visit  the  lakes,  declare  they  will  not  take  a  trout  any 
other  way,  except  with  a  fl}'.  F  have  always  looked  at  these 
assertions  in  the  light  of  fish  stories.  However,  if  you  wish 
to  be  sure  of  both  fly-fishing  and  log  sluicing,  visit  the  lakes 
in  June. 


isir-H  -^^^==  ^ 


CHAPTER  IX. 


kitift^  ul[  Wrml  nntt  ^unil^tfatt  ^itfm^m 


IvTHlNE    catches    of   trout 


are  made  at  the  Middle 


and  Upper  Dams  each 
season,  and  we  shall 
in  this  chapter  men- 
tion a  few   that    we 
can  vouch  for.    Many- 
more  might  be  given 
could  we  si)are  space. 
James  F.  Rogers,  Esq.,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.,  during  the 
last  two  seasons,  caught  on  Molechunkamunk  Lake  several 
trout  weighing  from  1^  to  8  lbs.,  also  many  smaller  ones. 

Many  of  the  older  visitants  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
will  remember  the  late  John  A.  Bird,  Esq.,  of  Brookline, 
Mass.,  who  was  in  the  habit  of  making  a  yearly  trip  to  the 
Upper  Dam.  On  one  of  his  regular  annual  fishing  excur- 
sions he  was  the  hero  of  a  trouting  adventure  that  deserves 
to  be  perpetuated  in  print  as  being  one  of  the  most  w^onder- 
ful  streaks  of  piscatory  luck  on  record,  for  the  truth  of 
which  we  can  furnish  indisputable  proof. 

One  day  he  went  out  to  Morrill's  Rock,  a  favorite  resort  of 
his,  to  give  the  trout  a  trial.  He  was  alone  on  this  occasion. 
He  had  indifferent  success  at  first,  but  finally  made  a  cast 
and  struck  two  fish  at  the  same  time.  They  were  both  good 
ones,  and  he  found  that  he  had  his  hands  full.    For  an  hour 

he  struggled  and  fought  with  two  of  the  finest  specimens  of 

189 


140  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 

the  Sahno  Fontanalis  that  ever  tickled  a  fisherman's  fancy, 
and  at  the  end  of  that  time  succeeded  in  getting  both  of  the 
fi^h,  "svhich  weighed  respectively  five  and  a  half  and  seven 
and  a  half  pounds,  making  together  thirteen  pounds  of  trout 
at  one  catch.  Both  of  them  were  very  handsome  trout,  and 
Mr.  Bird  thought  so  much  of  his  beautiful  prize  that  he  had 
an  oil-painting  of  the  fish  made  by  Bracket ;  the  i)icture  is  still 
in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Bird's  family,  and  will  stand  forever 
a  lasting  monument  of  his  skill  as  an  angler,  and  a  proof  of 
the  marvellous  size  and  beauty  of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
spotted  brook  trout. 

The  superiority  of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  over  anj'-  other 
fishing  waters,  for  size  and  beauty  of  trout,  is  well  known 
and  admitted  by  those  Mho  are  familiar  with  the  different 
fishing  localities  in  the  United  States  and  Canadas. 

The  weight  of  several  thousand  trout  taken  from  these 
waters  in  various  seasons  of  the  year,  by  J.  P.  Whitney, 
Esq.,  who  lias  a  fine  camp  at  the  mouth  of  Mosquito  Brook, 
on  Lake  Moiechunkamunk,  who  for  a  number  of  j-ears  kept 
a  careful  account  of  his  catches,  as  well  as  those  of  his 
friends,  averaged  one  and  one-tenth 2^ounds  each,  and  from  some 
localities  Mr.  Whitney  found  his  weights  to  average  one  and 
one-third  pounds^  the  latter  from  the  Magalloway  River. 

Not  far  above  the  Aziscchos  Falls,  on  the  right-hand  side 
of  the  river,  is  Beaver  Brook,  which  is  a  famous  fishing- 
place  in  the  months  of  xVugust  and  September.  At  times 
hundreds  of  trout  may  be  seen  h'ing  close  to  the  clear  sand 
at  the  mouth  of  this  brook,  all  headed  toward  the  cool  and 
life-giving  waters  of  this  stream.  Mr.  Whitney,  a  j-ear  or 
two  ago,  in  the  month  of  August,  took  at  this  place  three 
hundred  and  twenty-seven  trout  in  one  afternoon,  and  left  while 
the  fishing  icas  still  good.  The  same  gentleman  took,  one  fore- 
noon, from  the  Big  Pool,  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Little  Magalloway,  on  the  main  stream,  sixty-two 
trout,  weighing  78  lbs.,  cighc  of  the  largest  weighing  26  lbs. 

One  season  a  gentleman  by  the  name  of  Gile,  from  Brook- 
Ij-n,  N.  Y.,  who  was  over  sixt}"  years  of  age,  took  a  trout 
from  the  lake,  at  the  head  of  the  run,  in  front  of  the  Middle 


142  FAPJIAllVS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Dam  Caiup,  that  weighed  six  aucl  a  half  pounds.  Two  other 
trout  were  also  captured  bj^  another  gentleman  at  the  same 
place,  the  two  weighing  twenty-three  pounds.  This  was  in 
September. 

The  fishing  at  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  during  the  Spring 
and  fall  of  1880  was  remarkably  good,  and  many  large  trout 
were  taken  at  the  Upper  Dam.  Among  them  was  one  cap- 
tured by  Messrs.  N.  Frank  Marble  and  Frank  Fallon,  of  Bos- 
ton, who  had  Steve  Morse  with  them  for  guide,  on  the  29th 
of  September,  at  the  Upper  Dam,  that  weighed  eleven  pounds. 
It  was  caught  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  killed 
about  noon.  The  same  day  it  was  sent  to  Bradford  &  An- 
thony, of  Boston,  for  exhibition ;  was  afterwards  bought  by 
M.  A.  Dennison,  Esq.,  and  i^resented  to  Prof.  Spencer  F. 
Baird,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institute,  Washington,  D.  C,  and 
there  cast  in  plaster.  This  trout  was  seen  for  ten  days  before 
he  was  caught,  and  Ms  mate,  a  female,  was  taken  about  a 
week  before  him,  and  weighed  8^  lbs.  He  was  almost 
netted  at  the  time  the  female  was  caught,  by  keeping  so  close 
to  her  when  she  was  landed. 

In  June,  1881,  E.  A.  Samuels,  Esq.,  of  Boston,  took  seven 
trout  at  the  Middle  Dam,  that  weighed  SG^o  lbs., — an  average 
of  nearly  5  lbs.  each. 

In  June,  1882,  he  caught  on  Lake  Welokennebacook  sixty 
trout,  weighing  108  lbs.,  some  of  which  ran  from  3  to  5 
l^ounds. 

W.  A.  Chase,  Esq.,  Agent  of  the  Holyoke  Water  Power 
Co.,  who  has  made  several  fishing-trips  to  the  Androscoggin 
Lakes,  was  there  in  June,  1882,  with  a  party  of  four  ladies 
and  seven  gentlemen,  and  had  verj^  good  luck.    He  says : — 

"I  caught,  at  the  head  of  the  Narrows,  on  Saturday,  June 
3d,  between  the  hours  of  4.30  and  6.35  P.  M.,  five  trout,  all 
nearly  of  same  size  weighing  23  lbs.  and  11  oz.  Also 
twenty-two  trout,  nine  of  which  weighed  about  21  lbs.,  and 
the  remainder  ran  from  1%  to  1%  lbs.  each.  These  were  all 
taken  trolling ;  part  of  the  time  with  two  rods,  until  it  was 
so  difficult  managing  them  that  one  had  to  be  abandoned — 
and  all  within  a  circle  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  radius. 


THE   AXDEOSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  143 

"At  the  time  of  my  stopping  fisliiug,  G.30  P.  3i.,  the  trout 
were  biting  as  rapidly,  and  of  the  larger  sort,  as  -svlieu  I  first 
struck  in,  and  it  was  only  because  of  exhaustion  to  myself 
and  guide  that  I  stopped.  I  cannot  explain  to  you  the  excite- 
ment which  I  experienced  in  having,  at  three  dififerent  times, 
five-pounders  on  both  rods,  and  you  can  imagine  my  feelings 
as  the  larger  ones  (of  course),  three  in  succession,  took 
French  leave,  as  the  landing-net  was  about  to  enclose  them. 
It  won't  do  for  me  to  write  any  more  about  it,  or  I  shall  lioller  ! 
The  largest  fish  taken  hj  either  of  our  party  was  caught  by 
M.  II.  "Whitcomb  and  AY.  S.  Loomis,  weight  5  lbs.  4  oz.  My 
wife  claims  the  largest  single  catch,  it  being  a  trout  weighing 
\}i  lbs.,  with  eight  minnows  in  him. 

"I  wish  I  could  give  you  a  detailed  account  of  our  day's 
work.  Sufiice  it  to  say,  however,  it  was  far  beyond  our  ex- 
pectations, and  bids  us  take  an  early  start  next  year.-' 

There  is  not  the  shadow  of  a  doubt  but  that  within  a  year 
or  two  landlocked  salmon  will  be  as  freely  taken  at  the  An- 
droscoggin Lakes  as  trout  now  are.  For  the  past  three  years 
a  few  salmon  have  been  taken  every  season,  an  increasing 
number  each  year,  the  fish  running  from  2  to  6  pounds  in 
weight.  Most  of  them  have  been  taken  at  the  Upper  Dam, 
and  on  Mooselucmeguntic  Lake;  but  in  July,  1882,  Mr.  Kit 
Clarke,  the  manager  of  J.  H.  Haverly's  amusement  enter- 
prises, who  generally  visits  the  lakes  several  times  each 
season,  caught  at  the  Middle  Dam,  a  landlocked  salmon 
weighing  Sj^  pounds.  This  fish  was  taken  with  a  fly. 
Smaller  ones  had  been  taken  at  the  same  place  before,  also 
some  on  the  Rapid  River,  and  several  have  been  seen  in  Lake 
Umbagog.  For  the  last  two  years  during  the  month  of  Sep- 
tember, landlocked  salmon  have  been  i^lenty  in  the  lower 
part  of  Rapid  River  and  many  fish  of  from  one  to  three 
pounds'  weight  have  been  taken. 

Chas.  W.  Symonds,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  caught  at  the  Middle 
Dam,  in  September,  1885,  a  trout  weighing  4io  lbs. ;  also 
several  from  Metallak  Brook  weighing  from  j^  lb.  to  2  lbs. 
each. 

Mr.  C.  P.   Stevens,  of   Boston,  Mass.,  who    is    a    yearly 


1 


144 


FAliRAR-S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 


visitor  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  and  who  generally  divides 
his  time  between  the  Middle  Dam  and  the  Narrows,  took  on 
his  trip  in  1884,  forty-five  trout,  the  largest  weighing  6  lbs. 
4  oz.,  the  average  weight  of  each  fish  being  3  lbs.  On  his 
trip  in  1885,  Mr.  Stevens  captured  forty-two  trout,  the  largest 
weighing  G  lbs.  and  10  oz.,  the  average  weight  being  3  lbs. 
In  1886  he  caught  thirty-six  trout,  the  largest  weighing  5 
lbs.  12  oz.,  the  average  per  fish  being  3  lbs.  o}£  oz.  Not  a 
bad  record. 

ISIagnificent  Teout.  a.  Sharp  Hunter  and  E.  M.  Glenn, 
of  Hugh  Glenn  &  Co.,  returned  yesterday  from  the  Andro- 
scoggin Lakes,  Maine,  where  they  have  been  spending  sev- 
eral weeks,  having  a  most  delightful  time.  To-day  these 
gentlemen  are  displaying  fourteen  specimens  of  their  skill, 
all  of  them  weighing  fully  three  pounds  and  over.  One  in 
the  window  of  I.  Meyers'  fishing  tackle  store  has  attracted 
great  crowds  all  day.  Mr.  Hunter  sent  one  to  The  Obsek- 
VER  that  weighed,  dressed,  to-day,  2X  pounds.  It  is  ex- 
quisitely spotted,  and  the  magnificent  colors  are  admirably 
preserved.  A  number  of  trout  fishermen  expended  eloquent 
words  of  admiration,  and  almost  grew  green  with  envy. 
Utica  Observer,  Aug.  27,  1885. 

Mr.  Edward  P.  Borden,  of  Philadelphia,  Penn.,  while  stop- 
ping at  the  Angler's  Eetreat,  Middle  Dam,  in  Sept.,  1886, 
captured  in  two  days'  fishing  15  trout,  the  largest  weighing 
A%  lbs.,  and  the  smallest  %  lbs.  The  average  weight  per 
fish  was  2  lbs. 

John  M.  Niles,  of  Boston,  while  stopping  at  the  Angler's 
Eetreat  in  June,  1886,  caught  one  trout  weighing  4^%  Ihs.,  also 
a  large  number  of  smaller  ones. 

Mr.  P.  N.  Parish,  of  Montville,  Conn.,  one  of  the  pleasant 
and  successful  fishermen  who  makes  the  Angler's  Eetreat 
his  stopping-place  when  visiting  the  Androscoggin  Lakes, 
took  in  September,  1886,  on  Eapid  Eiver,  two  trout,  weigh- 
ing five  pounds  each,  one  of  4)^  lbs.,  three  of  33^  lbs.  each, 
and  several  2  to  3  lbs.  each,  beside  a  large  number  of  smaller 
ones. 

Charles  L.  Mead,  of  Middletown,  IST.  Y.,  while  stopping  at 


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14G  FARRAE'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

the  Angler's  Retreat,  in  June,  1886,  took  at  the  South  Arm  a 
trout  weighing  7  lbs.,  also  several  other  good-sized  ones, 
running  from  2  to  Sj^o  lbs.  Mr.  Mead  is  a  skillful  angler,  and 
generally  visits  the  Angler's  Retreat  each  year. 

Mr.  E.  II.  Foote,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  who  passed  a  few  days 
at  the  Angler's  Retreat,  at  the  Middle  Dam,  in  August,  1886, 
caught  3  trout  weighing  5^  lbs.,  7  lbs.,  and  734  l^s.,  besides 
a  number  of  smaller  fish. 

Dr.  Edward  Spaulding,  and  Mr.  O.  H.  Phillips,  of  Nashua, 
N.  H.,  who  sojourned  at  Lakeview  Cottage,  at  the  South 
Arm,  in  May,  1886,  took  the  following  very  fine  string  of 
trout.  One  trout  8  lbs.,  one  7  lbs.,  one  Q}4  lbs.,  one  6  lbs., 
two  5^^  lbs.  each,  four  4  lbs.  each,  three  3  pounds  each, 
twelve  2  lbs.  each,  four  1}4  lbs.  each,  two  1  lb.  each,  beside 
other  smaller  ones.  The  six  largest  trout  of  this  catch 
weighed  39  lbs.,  averaging  Q}4  lbs.  per  fish.  The  entire 
catch,  including  only  the  given  weights,  weighed  96  lbs.,  an 
average  of  over  3  lbs.  per  fish  for  31  fish.  Other  good 
catches  were  made  by  gentlemen  stopping  at  Lakeview  Cot- 
tage, but  we  only  give  this  as  a  sample. 

T.  B.  Stewart,  Esq.,  of  New  York  City,  is  one  of  the  most 
enthusiastic  and  successful  anglers  whom  we  know.  He 
generally  finds  time  from  the  cares  of  business  to  spend  a 
few  weeks  each  summer  at  the  Richardson  Lakes.  During 
his  fishing  trip  in  September,  he  took,  in  one  day,  one  trout 
weighing  4  lbs. ;  two  weighing  5  lbs.  each ;  one  of  7  lbs. ; 
one  of  8  lbs.  On  another  day  he  caught  three  trout,  weigh- 
ing, respectively,  3>^,  4,  and  5)4  lbs.  On  the  29th  of  the 
same  month  he  accomplished  the  greatest  piscatorial  feat 
that  has  ever  come  under  our  notice.  He  was  fishing  in  the 
rapids  below  the  upper  dam,  with  a  six-ounce  rod,  from  the 
leader  of  which  dangled  two  "Samuels"  flies,  known  as  the 
"Silver  Doctor."  Making  a  cast,  he  soon  had  two  trout  se- 
curely hooked,  and  from  the  play  of  his  rod  he  knew  they 
were  both  large  ones.  His  guide  stood  near  him,  on  a  pile 
of  logs,  and  with  much  skill  and  patience  he  succeeded  in 
working  the  trout  toward  the  guide,  w^ho,  with  rare  good 
luck,  netted  one,  and  secured  him.    The  other  fish,  after  an 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  147 

hour  and  a  half  of  hard  labor,  was  also  netted,  without  in- 
juring his  rigging  a  particle.  One  of  these  trout  weighed 
eight,  and  the  other  eight  and  a  quarter,  making  sixteen  and 
a  quarter  pounds  of  trout  caught  at  one  time  on  a  six-ounce  rod. 
When  any  one  can  beat  that  record  we  should  like  to  be  in- 
formed of  it. 

G.  W.  Bentley,  Esq.,  Gen.  Manager  of  the  Jacksonville, 
Tampa  &  Key  West  Railway,  was  once  at  the  Androscoggin 
Lakes  on  a  fishing  trip,  and  while  stopping  at  the  Upper  Dam 
went  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  one  morning  to  try  his 
luck.  Uncle  John  Merrill  was  his  guide.  At  the  lake  they 
took  a  boat,  and  anchored  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids.  Not 
having  an  idea  that  trout  were  very  plenty,  he  put  three  flies 
on  his  leader  and  commenced  whipping  away.  Soon  he  had 
a  rise,  but  did  not  succeed  in  striking  his  fish.  He  worked 
away  diligently,  however,  and  soon  several  more  trout  broke 
water  near  him.  He  cast  over  the  spot;  another  trout  rose, 
and  he  struck  him  successfully.  He  had  hardly  commenced 
playing  the  first  trout,  when  another  hungry  fellow  took  the 
second  fly,  and  shortly  after  it  the  third  fly  also  had  a  trout 
on  it.  The  excitement  now  was  intense.  "Jupiter  Pluvius  ! 
John!  I  have  hooked  three  trout !"  said  Mr.  Bentley.  "You 
don't  mean  it?"  cried  John,  his  eyes  as  large  as  saucers.  "As 
sure  as  you  are  a  live  man.  And  how  in  the  dickens  am  I 
going  to  save  them?"  "I  don't  know,  sir;  they  will  smash 
your  rigging  sure."  "Take  your  net  and  stand  readj'',  John, 
and  I'll  see  what  I  can  do."  By  careful  work  Mr.  Bentley 
succeeded  in  getting  the  smallest  trout  that  had  fortunately 
taken  the  upper  fly,  near  enough  to  the  boat,  so  that  Uncle 
John  placed  his  net  under  it,  and  with  one  quick  stroke  of 
his  knife  severed  the  fly  from  the  leader,  thus  saving  the 
trout,  w^hich  weighed  two  pounds.  After  playing  the  other 
two  a  while,  they  were  also  netted,  and  found  to  weigh  sev- 
erally five  and  six  pounds.  He  fished  for  some  time  after 
making  this  glorious  catch,  and  took  altogether  sixty  pounds 
of  trout,  about  as  big  a  load  as  Uncle  John  wanted  to  back  up 
to  camp.  This  feat  was  the  more  wonderful  from  the  fact 
that  this  was  Mr.  Bentley's  first  trip  to  the  lakes,  and  when 


148  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


he  reached  Audover  on  his  return,  and  told  some  gentlemen 
of  it  who  -were  on  their  way  in,  they  had  half  a  mind  to  start 
that  night. 

Frank  T.  Stinson  of  Brooklyn,  IN".  Y.,  caught  on  the  Mag- 
alloway  River  above  the  Narrows  one  2}<  lbs.  trout,  and  a 
large  number  of  smaller  ones.  This  was  in  September,  1886. 
Magnificent  Brook  Trout.  July  1st  A.  Sharp  Hunter, 
Captain  Edward  M.  Glenn  and  Master  George  Hunter  left 
Utica  for  a  fishing  trip  to  AYelokennebacook  Lake,  one  of  the 
Androscoggin  chain  in  Maine.  Yesterday  the  party  returned 
with  a  large  number  of  magnificent  specimens  of  their  skill 
with  rod  and  fly.  The  fish  range  from  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  to  five  and  a  half  pounds.  One  beauty  weighs  five 
pounds,  and  there  are  several  which  will  tip  the  beam  at  3, 
2^,  and  2  pounds.  They  were  caught  in  the  running  water, 
near  the  head  of  the  lake.  The  fish  are  genuine  brook  trout, 
and  are  richly  colored  and  beautifully  spotted.  The  fish  are 
on  exhibition  to-day  at  the  store  of  Hugh  Glenn  &  Co.,  and 
were  visited  by  numbers  of  prominent  fishermen,  all  of 
whom  were  enthusiastic  over  the  beauties. 

The  number  of  fisherwomeu  visiting  the  lakes  the  past 
year  or  two  seems  to  be  decidedly  on  the  increase,  and  some 
of  them  have  a  strong  penchant  for  the  gentle  sport. 

Mrs.  J.  P.  Whitney,  of  Camp  Whitney,  is  one  of  the  most 
enthusiastic  and  successful  anglers  who  visit  the  lakes,  and 
can  handle  a  rod,  cast  a  fly,  or  land  a  five-pound  trout,  with 
as  much  ease  and  grace  as  any  of  the  men. 

That  the  fishing  of  some  of  the  ladies  who  visit  the  Andro- 
scoggin Lakes  will  compare  favorably  with  that  of  the  gen- 
tlemen is  proven  by  the  fact  that  on  the  first  daj-  of  June, 
1886,  Mrs.  C.  F.  Cheney,  of  Xew  London,  Conn.,  W'ho  was 
stopping  at  the  Angler's  Retreat,  caught  a  trout  that  weighed 
6  pounds.    The  length  of  the  fish  was  22;^  inches. 

During  the  spring  fishing  season  of  1886,  Major  Lovejoy 
and  wife  of  Bethel,  made  a  trip  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes, 
and  during  a  short  stay,  captured  10  trout,  weighing  51  lbs., 
and  six  fish,  weighing  32  lbs.,  besides  a  large  number  of 
lighter  weight.    The  largest  trout  taken  during  their  stay 


150  FAKKAE'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

weighed  8  lbs.,  gross,  and  was  caught  by  Mrs.  Lovejoy.  It 
is  said  to  be  the  largest  trout  ever  taken  by  a  lady  angler. 
Its  length  was  2Q}4  hi.,  girth  21  in.,  thickness  2j^  in.,  and 
depth  7^  in.  It  was  taken  on  a  split  bamboo  rod  of  S}4 
ounces  weight.  Most  of  these  trout  were  caught  near  the 
Angler's  Retreat,  and  in  the  Narrows. 

The  stock  in  the  lakes  is  kept  up  by  artificial  hatching,  and 
during  the  last  two  years  six  hundred  thousand  young  trout 
have  been  turned  into  the  water,  besides  some  thirty  thou- 
sand landlocked  salmon.  This  year  there  is  an  addition  of 
one  hundred  thousand  landlocked  salmon,  and  five  hundred 
thousand  trout.  This  season  a  large  number  of  young  land- 
locked salmon  were  placed  in  Lake  Umbagog,  and  this  is  to 
be  continued  each  year,  until  the  lake  is  thoroughly  stocked 
with  that  splendid  fish. 

The  occupants  of  Birch  Lodge,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Mole- 
chunkamunk,  were  startled  one  morning  by  discovering  a 
deer  swimming  across  the  lake  in  front  of  the  camp,  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  shore. 

Instantly  all  was  excitement.  Two  of  the  guides  started 
in  one  boat,  and  the  cook,  and  two  of  the  fishermen  in  anoth- 
er, each  crew  doing  their  best  to  reach  the  animal  first.  As 
the  first  boat  neared  him  the  deer  turned  in  the  direction  of 
the  second  boat,  and,  seeing  it,  became  confused,  and  began 
to  swim  around  in  a  circle.  The  boats  now  closed  in  upon 
him,  and  after  some  difficulty  a  rope  was  thrown  over  his 
head,  and  he  was  towed  to  the  shore.  He  was  taken  to  the 
camp  alive,  and  found  to  '.o  a  fine  buck  a  year  or  more  old. 

The  gentlemen  had  hoped  to  keep  him  alive,  but  he  had 
been  injured  some  way  in  the  struggle  on  the  lake,  and  it  was 
found  necessar}'-  to  kill  him.  Had  the  animal  swam  straight 
to  shore  when  he  first  saw  the  boats  he  would  have  escaped, 
as  none  of  the  party  took  fire-arms  with  them.  The  propri- 
etor of  Birch  Lodge,  had  the  head  preserved  and  mounted  as 
a  souvenir  of  the  adventure. 

One  morning  as  the  steamer  Molechunkamunk  was  making 
her  trip  to  Birch  Lodge,  the  captain  sighted  an  animal, 
which  afterwards  proved  to  be  a  two-year-old  caribou,  feeding 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAICES.  151 

on  lily-pads  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  Brook.  Instantly  all 
was  excitement.  A  double-barrelled  spy-glass,  something 
less  than  twenty  feet  long,  was  levelled  at  the  innocent  and 
hungry  caribou,  and  the  person  who  squinted  through  it  saw 
the  animal  raise  his  head  and  look  warily  around.  This  in- 
creased the  nervousness,  if  possible,  of  all  on  board,  and  a 
sportsman  present,  who  was  accompanied  by  a  four-legged 
dog,  offered  the  captain  a  five-dollar  counterfeit  note  if  he 
would  get  the  steamer  to  the  landing  in  time  for  him  to  get 
a  shot.  The  captain  iDocketed  the  note,  spit  a  few  mild, 
briny  oaths  out  of  his  mouth,  that  were  interfering  with  his 
digestion,  then,  seizing  the  speaking-trumpet,  yelled  to  the 
engineer  to  let  her  go.  The  engineer  declared  h^  was  not 
hindering  her.  Then  three  reefs  were  shook  out  of  the 
smoke-stack  and  the  anchor  hove  overboard,  which  consid- 
erably accelerated  the  boat's  speed.  Then  the  captain  rubbed 
salt  i^ork  all  around  the  outside  of  the  boat  along  the  water- 
line,  and  the  way  that  steamer  went  through  the  water  was 
a  caution  to  snakes.  The  log  was  hove  and  the  mate  report- 
ed the  speed  at  thirty  knots.  When  the  captain  heard  it  his 
hair  stood  on  end  so  quickly  that  it  shot  his  hat  up  through 
the  hurricane  deck  and  it  sailed  away  into  infinite  space. 
"Great  Caesar's  Ghost!"  he  exclaimed,  "I  shall  lose  my 
money  at  this  rate.  Tie  ten  knots  more  in  that  log-line  and 
throw  it  over  again ;"  and  at  a  speed  of  forty  knots  a  minute 
the  steamer  tore  through  the  water  and  landed  high  and  dry 
on  the  beach.  All  hands  immediately  made  tracks  for  the 
caribou,  the  sportsman  and  his  dog  taking  the  lead,  covering 
twenty  feet  of  ground  at  a  stride.  The  entire  crew  of  the 
steamer  followed,  the  engineer  armed  with  a  double-barrelled 
gun, — one  barrel  straight  and  the  other  crooked,  so  he  could 
shoot  easily  around  corners, — the  rest  of  the  crew  frantically 
waving  hand-sjDikes,  belajing-pins,  and  feather-dusters. 
They  were  joined  in  their  flight  by  several  from  the  camp, 
and  in  a  few  moments  reached  Mill  Brook,  and,  oh,  joy! 
there  beheld  the  caribou.  The  sportsman,  with  his  rifle,  and 
the  engineer  with  his  peculiar  gun,  both  blazed  away.  The 
caribou  was  not  hit,  although  the  distance  was  only  twenty- 


IT) -2 


FAKRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 


live  yards;  but  the  bullet  from  the  crooked  barrel  of  the 
engineer's  gun  did  good  execution,  as  it  circled  around  to  the 
west  shore  of  the  lake  and  went  through  the  brain  of  an 
elephant  that  was  in  the  act  of  climbing  a  tall  maple  to 
gather  spruce-gum.  llien  the  party,  with  a  lofty  disdain  of 
the  danger  they  incurred,  waded  Mill  Brook,  which  at  this 
time  was  a  raging  torrent  two  inches  deep,  and  charged  on 
the  caribou.  This  was  more  than  any  well-trained  animal 
could  stand ;  so  he  bowed  to  his  would-be  captors,  and  trot- 
ted leisurely  into  the  woods.  At  this  the  party  divided,  half 
following  the  animal  into  the  woods,  the  rest  remaining  on 
the  beach.  Soon  the  caribou  appeai-ed  again,  further  along 
on  the  beach,  and  one  of  the  thirsters  for  blood  Avalked  up 
to  within  ten  feet  of  the  animal.  The  party  in  the  woods 
now  obtained  a  squint  at  him,  and,  crawling  through  the 
underbrush  towards  the  beach,  they  stopped  six  feet  from 
the  caribou,  and,  resting  their  rifles  carefully  over  a  stump, 
])ulled  trigger  and  missed.  The  caribou,  with  a  taunting 
laugh,  and  a  parting  bow,  said  '"Good  droj  !"  and  was  oft'  like 
the  wind.  The  same  day  he  was  tracked  to  the  first  Richard- 
son pond,  and  shot. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Jinnitinj^  6np$npiu  "J^nkt^  nni  %nhinn  \ntk. 


[APT.  Barker's  steamer  Metalluc  leaves 
the  Upper  Dam  Landing  twice  a  daj", 
on  arrival  of  the  steamers  from  the 
South  Arm,  at  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  fore- 
noon, and  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
At  liigh  water  she  sails  from  the  Upper 
Dam,  quite  near  the  hotel;  at  low  water 
from  Scow  Landing,  at  Trout  Cove,  a  few 
minutes'  walk  from  the  house. 
Gliding  out  of  the  cove,  the  steamer  skirts  the  rock-bound, 
forest-girt  shore,  passing  several  eligible  places  for  camping, 
on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  lake,  Avhere  wood  and  water 
are  plenty,  and  not  a  great  way  from  good  lishing-ground. 
Before  reaching  Toothaker's  Island,  the  view  opens  on  the 
left,  disclosing  a  tine  view  of  the  lake,  which  sweeps  away 
to  the  north  until  it  finally  unites  with  Cupsuptic.  Passing 
to  the  right  of  the  island  you  enter  a  broad  bay,  and  after 
a  run  of  seven  miles  arrive  at  the  landing  near  the  Bemis 
Camps.  At  the  foot  of  the  bay  the  Bemis  Stream  empties 
into  the  lake,  and  here  is  a  splendid  sand  beach,  semicircular 
in  shape,  and  over  a  nule  in  extent. 

The  clearing  here  was  made  and  the  log-cabins  built  by  the 
Oquossoe  Angling  Association  about  ten  years  ago,  and  for 
several  years  some  of  the  members  visited  the  place  ever}- 
summer.  At  one  time  there  was  a  hatching-house  three 
miles  up  the  stream,  and  a  large  number  of  trout  were  ar- 
tificially propagated  each  season.  This  business,  however, 
is  now  done  at  the  foot  of  Oquossoe  Lake. 

The  camps  and  land  at  Bemis  Stream  are  now  leased  bv 

ir,:5  •" 


m^sp^i' 


3 


a 
o 

a 
5 


o 


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TPIE  AXDEOSCOGGEN"  LAia:S.  155 

Capt.  Fred  C.  Barker.  The  buildings  include  nine  log-cabins, 
and  a  new  frame  house  containing  six  rooms.  Each  building 
has  an  open  fire-place,  and  the  rooms  are  all  well  and  com- 
fortably furnished.  These  camps  are  now  used  as  a  hotel  by 
Capt.  Barker,  who  has  good  accommodations  for  thirty 
people.  His  terms  are  $2.00  per  day,  and  he  sets  a  very  good 
table.  Parties  wishing  row-boats  can  hire  them  of  Capt. 
Barker,  who  has  some  good  ones. 

The  camps  are  pleasantly  situated,  standing  a  few  rods 
from  the  lake,  facing  west,  and  command  a  fine  landscape 
view.  A  new  building  that  is  used  for  the  office  and  dining 
room  of 'the  establishment,  is  called  "Cleft  Eock  Hall,''  ap- 
propriately named  from  a  huge  boulder  in  front  of  the 
building,  split  in  two  by  some  convulsion  of  Nature, 
which  has  long  been  called  "Cleft  Eock."  Away  to  the 
right  Bald  Mountain  is  just  visible  in  the  distance,  its  crest 
appearing  above  several  lower  hills  that  intervene.  On  the 
left  the  Bemis  Mountain  Eange  stretches  away  for  miles, 
and  directly  in  front  is  the  vast  expanse  of  water,  with 
Toothaker's  Island  and  Student  Island  prominent,  and  far 
beyond  are  the  mountains  that  lie  along  the  Magalloway 
Eiver. 

The  laud  through  which  the  Bemis  Stream  flows  is  flat  for 
some  little  distance  back  from  the  lake,  and  in  the  spring, 
when  the  gates  are  down  at  the  Upper  Dam,  the  water  flows 
back  a  long  way,  and  the  mouth  of  the  stream  and  the  sand 
beach  are  completely  covered. 

During  the  spring  and  fall  the  fishing  is  good  at  Bemis ; 
but  there  is  no  part  of  the  summer  when  j^ou  cannot  catch 
fish  enough  to  eat.  The  time  for  the  appearance  of  the  trout 
varies ;  some  years  they  come  several  weeks  earlier  than 
others. 

Eeaving  Bemis  Stream  the  boat  heads  north-west,  and  we 
soon  reach  Toothaker's  Island,  or  the  Big  Island,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  which  is  over  a  mile  long,  and  on  M'^hose 
soil  some  immense  trees  have  grown.  A  few  years  ago  a 
large  gang  logged  on  this  island  all  winter,  and  some  of  the 
largest  logs  were  cut  that  ever  grew  in  the  State.    There  has 


loG  FAPtRARVS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


also  been  considerable  logging  done  at  different  times  on 
Student  Island  which  contains  about  ninety  acres.  On  the 
east  shore  of  the  bay,  opposite  Toothaker's  Island,  there  is 
an  immense  rock,  in  which  is  quite  a  cave,  making  it  worth 
a  visit  from  the  curious. 

A  mile  further  on  we  turn  into  the  Gut,  with  Student 
Island  on  your  left.  Sailing  through  this  strait,  which 
is  thickly  sprinkled  with  rocks,  you  reach  the  broad- 
est part  of  the  lake,  and  shortly  pass  Long  Point,  or  the  cape 
on  the  right,  with  Bald  Mountain  directly  ahead.  Continu- 
ing on  up  the  lake,  a  few  miles'  run  brings  us  to  Bugle  Cove, 
twelve  miles  distant  from  Bemis  Stream. 

From  Bugle  Cove  to  Brandy  Point  is  the  widest  part  of  the 
lake,  and  is  a  distance  of  about  five  miles. 

The  late  R.  G.  Allerton,  Esq.,  of  New  York  City,  built  a 
camp  at  this  place  known  as  Allerton  Lodge.  It  was  built 
in  1875,  and  is  one  of  the  prettiest  buildings  in  the  lake 
region.  Its  situation  is  most  romantic,  setting  as  it  does  on 
a  huge  rock  which  towers  above  the  water  to  a  height  of 
fifty  feet,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  widest  part  of  the 
lake.  Directly  behind  it  Bald  Mountain  rears  its  thickly 
wooded  and  precipitous  side  to  a  height  of  1,000  feet.  From 
the  piazza  of  the  house  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  Bemis 
Mountain  Range,  the  Elephant's  Hump  being  one  of  the 
prominent  landmarks.  This  range  of  mountains  is  about 
twelve  miles  south-east  from  the  Lodge.  Looking  westerly 
across  the  lake,  the  frowning  peak  of  Aziscohos  is  seen  tow- 
ering above  the  other  mountains  by  several  hundred  feet. 
From  its  summit  may  be  obtained  the  most  extensive  view 
to  be  found  in  the  lake  country. 

The  present  owners  of  Allerton  Lodge  are  R.  M.  Pulsifer, 
E.  B.  Haskell,  and  C.  H.  Andrews,  proprietors  of  the  well- 
known  "Boston  Herald,"  and  associated  with  them  are  Col. 
H.  T.  Rockwell,  and  H.  A.  Priest,  also  of  Boston.  These 
gentlemen  with  their  families  visit  the  camp  each  summer, 
and  enjoy  the  sports  of  the  woods  and  waters,  and  the  beau- 
tiful scenery.  Fortunate  are  those  of  their  friends  who  get 
an  invitation  to  visit  them  at  this  earthly  j^aradise. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGEST  LAIvES.  157 


The  ascent  of  Bald  Mountain  may  be  easily  made  from 
Allerton  Lodge,  the  distance  to  the  top  being  a  little  short 
of  a  mile.  An  observatory  on  the  summit  adds  to  its  attract- 
iveness for  visitors.  Mr.  Ellis,  who  formerly  had  charge  of 
the  house,  bushed  out  and  cleared  up  a  path  that  is  not  at 
all  difficult  to  follow.  At  the  same  time  he  cut  away  the 
trees  and  underbrush  in  four  different  places  on  top  of  the 
mountain,  furnishing  some  very  charming  landscapes.  The 
first  commands  the  lower  end  of  Lake  Mooselucmaguntic, 
including  Bema  Bay,  Student  and  Toothaker's  Islands,  part 
of  the  lower  Androscoggin  Lakes,  part  of  the  town  of  Cam- 
bridge, the  distant  peaks  of  the  White  Mountains,  and  a  bit 
of  Lake  Umbagog.  Following  Mr.  Ellis'  trail,  we  move 
along  the  top  of  the  mountain,  bearing  to  the  east,  and  reach 
the  second  cut-out.  This  gives  us  a  view  of  Bema  Bay  and 
Stream,  and  the  camps  there.  Then,  turning  a  little  to  the 
left,  we  see  a  part  of  Oquossoc  Lake,  including  South  Cove 
and  South  Bog  Island ;  the  farms  along  its  shores  also  look 
very  pretty  from  this  j)oint.  The  Saddleback  Eange  and 
Mount  Bigelow,  seen  in  the  distance,  also  add  to  the  beauty 
of  this  picture.  Another  short  walk  brings  us  to  the  third 
place,  where  Mr.  Ellis  so  judiciously  wielded  an  axe  in  the 
interests  of  tourists,  and  discloses  nearly  the  whole  of 
Oquossoc  Lake  with  Rangeley  Village  and  adjacent  farms. 
Far  away,  looming  up  against  the  blue  sky,  are  East  and 
West  Kennebago  Mountains.  Oquossoc  Outlet,  and  the  hotel 
at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  lie  just  below  us,  the  hotel  being 
diminished  to  Liliputian  size.  Turning  westward,  another 
short  walk  brings  us  to  the  fourth  and  last  of  these  vistas. 
This  final  picture  is  perhaps  the  prettiest  of  the  whole,  as  it 
commands  an  extensive  view  of  the  northern  wilderness 
stretching  away  to  Canada ;  the  upper  part  of  Mooselucma- 
guntic Lake,  with  its  cluster  of  islands,  Cupsuptic  Narrows, 
Haines'  Landing,  with  the  Mooselucmaguntic  House,  Frye's 
Camp,  Eagle  Point  just  above,  the  whole  of  Cupsuptic  Lake, 
Birch  Island,  the  clearing  at  Indian  Rock,  with  Camp  Kenne- 
^bago  nestled  amid  the  woods.  West  Kennebago,  and  several  of 
the  Boundary  Mountains,  the  line  between  American  and  Brit- 


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J. 


THE  ANT^EOSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  159 

ish  possessions.  Observatory  Mountain,  and  the  giant  peaks 
of  Aziscohos,  the  monarch  of  the  hills  in  this  region,  are  also 
brought  within  range  of  vision  from  this  point  of  observa- 
tion. From  here  a  walk  of  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  brings 
you  to  Allerton  Lodge.  Many  ladies  make  the  ascent  of  the 
mountain  from  the  Lodge,  and  it  is  not  at  all  tiresome. 

Leaving  Bugle  Cove,  and  coasting  along  the  shore,  we 
pass  two  private  camps,  cosily  nestled  among  the  woods  on 
the  east  side  of  the  lake.  The  first  of  these  is  Camp  Haver- 
hill, and  the  second.  Camp  Houghton.  Just  beyond  these 
the  steamer  makes  her  customary  stop  at  Haines'  Landing. 

The  Mooselucmeguntic  House  is  a  large,  two-story  build- 
ing of  comparatively  modern  architecture,  with  wide  piazzas 
on  the  west  and  south  sides,  and  stands  a  few  rods  from  the 
water.  The  steamer  touches  here  several  times  a  day, 
making  it  a  very  convenient  place  to  stop  at.  A  carry  road 
leads  from  this  house  to  Oquossoc  Outlet, — a  distance  of  two 
miles, — where  connection  is  made  with  the  steamer  on 
Oquossoc  Lake.  A  team  is  run  on  the  carry  for  the  trans- 
portation of  baggage  and  small  boats. 

The  buildings  contain  forty  sleeping  rooms  tastily  finished, 
and  comfortably  furnished,  giving  accommodations  for  about 
fifty  people.  A  large  office,  i^arlor,  and  dining  room,  the 
two  former  having  brick  fire  places,  are  pleasant  and  neces- 
sary features  of  the  establishment.  A  large  fleet  of  com- 
fortable row-boats  belong  to  the  establishment  and  may  be 
hired  at  reasonable  prices.  The  terms  at  this  house  are  $2.00 
per  day.  Messrs.  Crosby  and  Twombly  are  the  present  pro- 
prietors. 

The  view  from  the  piazza  of  the  hotel  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  upper  section  of  the  lake  region,  and  commands  an 
unobstructed  view  of  the  largest  part  of  the  lake,  the  sheet 
of  water  in  sight  being  about  eight  miles  long  and  two  wide. 
All  the  mountain  ranges  southward  stand  out  prominent,  and 
the  sunsets  from  this  spot  are  beautiful. 

Large  trout  are  plenty  in  Mooselucmaguntic  and  many  are 
taken  with  bait  by  trolling  and  deep  fishing,  from  the  time 
the  ice  goes  out  to  about  the  middle  of   August.    There  is 


160  FAREAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 


also  good  fly-fishing  for  three  or  four  weeks  from  the  middle 
of  June,  and  through  September. 

Leaving  Haines'  Landing  the  steamer  soon  passes  Pine 
Point,  on  which  the  Buckfield  camp  is  located,  owned  by  an 
association  of  gentlemen  from  Buckfield,  Me.  In  high  water 
the  boat  runs  up  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  crossing  the 
bar,  and  enters  the  river,  the  outlet  of  Oquossoc  and  Kenne- 
bago  Lakes.  Continuing  on  for  two  miles  you  reach  the 
junction  of  the  Kennebago  and  Rangelej'  Streams,  and  land 
opposite  Indian  Rock. 

The  generallj^  traveled  route  between  the  Upper  Dam  and 
Indian  Rock  is  shorter  and  more  direct  than  the  one  just 
described,  the  distance  being  only  ten  miles. 

By  the  more  direct  route,  the  steamer,  after  clearing  Trout 
Cove,  takes  a  north  east  course,  passing  Sandy  Cove  and 
Brandy  Point  on  the  left,  good  fishing-ground  in  this  vi- 
cinity, and  running  between  Brandy  Point  and  Student 
Island.  Capt.  Barker's  new  cottage  is  seen  to  advan- 
tage from  the  steamer,  and  it  commands  a  fine  outlook 
across  the  lake.  It  was  erected  during  the  summer  of  1886, 
and  contains  eleven  comfortably  furnished  rooms.  The 
sitting  room  is  ornamented  by  a  brick  fire  place,  and  there 
are  other  fittings  and  furnishings  calculated  to  please  the  eye 
and  add  to  the  comforts  of  the  tourists  and  sportsmen  who 
favor  him  with  their  patronage.  As  you  emerge  from  Trout 
Cove  the  view  looking  east  is  very  fine.  There  is  a  large 
number  of  mountains  in  that  direction,  the  Bigelow  Twin 
Peaks  being  the  most  conspicuous. 

Above  Brandy  Point  the  lake  makes  a  curve  to  the  left, 
forming  a  bay  that  is  filled  with  small  islands,  known  locally 
as  "Stony  Batter,,"  adding  materially  to  the  beauty  of  that 
locality.  In  front  of  you  the  hotel  at  Haines'  Landing  looms 
up  i^rominently  against  the  dark  background  of  forest. 
Beyond  may  be  seen  the  Kennebago,  Spotted,  and  other 
mountains  that  overlook  the  lake  in  that  direction.  Follow- 
ing the  west  side  of  the  lake,  this  time,  we  soon  reach  Cup- 
suptic  Narrows,  through  which  the  steamer  runs  at  low 
water,  passing  on  the  left  Frye's  Camp, — a  picturesque  log 


TIIE  ANDROSCOGOrN"  L^VKES.  IGl 

camp,  standing  on  a  high  rock  that  rises  abruptly  from  the 
water  near  Eagle  Point.  It  is  the  property  of  Hon.  AVilliam 
P.  Frye,  of  Lewiston,  Me.,  the  distinguished  member  of 
Congress  representing  the  district  of  which  Franklin  County 
forms  a  part ;  he  is  also  one  of  the  Executive  Committee  of 
the  Oquossoc  Angling  Association.  Crossing  the  foot  of  the 
lake  we  enter  the  river,  and  are  soon  at  Indian  Rock,  which 
is  nothing  but  a  flat  ledge  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
from  the  association's  camp. 

There  is  no  "carry"  between  Cupsuptic  and  Mooselucma- 
guutic  Lake,  the  two  sheets  of  water  being  connected  by  a 
strip  of  "narrows-';  and  thus  you  have  one  unbroken  ex- 
l)anse  of  water  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  vast  wilderness,  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
hills  and  mountains,  many  of  which  are  grand  and  pictur- 
esque. 

A  local  tradition  explains  the  elongated  name  of  this  lake 
as  follows :  A  hunter  who  was  out  after  moose,  met  with 
such  poor  success  that  he  almost  famished.  He  said,  "I  had 
been  four  days  without  game,  and  naturally  without  any- 
thing to  eat,  except  pine  cones  and  green  chestnuts.  There 
was  no  game  in  the  forest.  The  trout  would  not  bite,  for  I 
had  no  tackle  or  hook.  I  was  starving.  I  sat  down,  and 
rested  my  trusty  but  futile  rifle  against  a  fallen  tree.  Sud- 
denly I  heard  a  tread,  turned  my  head,  saw  a  moose, — took — 
my — gun — tick!  he  was  dead.  I  was  saved.  I  feasted,  and 
in  gratitude  named  the  lake  Moosetookmyguntick.''  The 
name  has  undergone  some  modifications  since  its  origin ;  but 
it  cannot  be  misunderstood. 

At  the  foot  of  Cupsuptic  Lake,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
narrows  and  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  excellent  fishing- 
ground,  furnishing  good  sport  to  those  stopping  at  Indian 
Rock  or  Haines'  Landing. 

Cupsuptic  Lake  is  1,486  feet  above  tide-water,  and  is  the  most 
northerly  of  the  chain.  Capt.  Barker  runs  a  small  open  steam 
launch,  the  Mollelocket,  Monday,  Wednesday,  Thursday  and 
Saturday,  from  Haines'  Landing  and  Indian  Rock  to  Cupsuptic 
Falls,  stopping  either  way  at  Pleasant  Island  camps,  when  de- 


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THE  ANDROSCOGGm  LAIvES.  163 

sired.  Fare  §1.00  each  way.  Leaving  Indian  Eock  about  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  run  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  a  turn  to  the  right  brings  us  into  the  low^er  part  of  the  lake ; 
and  running  northward  we  pass  Eagle  Point  on  the  right,  a 
barren  ledge,  showing  well-defined  traces  of  many  acamp- 
fii-e.  Bald  Mountain,  omnipresent  in  this  part  of  the  region, 
towers  up  behind  the  southern  bank  of  the  river.  The  pas- 
sage between  Eagle  Point  and  the  western  shore  of  the  lake 
is  narrow ;  an  inward  sweep  of  the  shore  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river  to  Eagle  Point  makes  a  large  cove  or  bay,  whose 
shores  are  dotted  with  boulders,  and  fringed  with  a  dense 
forest,  continuing  back  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see.  The  penin- 
sular known  as  Eagle  Point  is  an  island  during  high  water. 
West  Kennebago  Mountain,  a  sharp,  symmetrical  peak, 
which  has  been  in  sight  on  our  right,  disappears  from  view 
as  we  round  Eagle  Point. 

Passing  the  point,  the  entire  length  of  the  lake  is  seen, 
with  Pine  and  Birch  Islands,  the  larger  of  the  two  in  the 
distance.  Above  Eagle  Point,  on  the  east  side,  a  deep  inden- 
tation in  the  shore,  known  as  Toothaker  Cove,  attracts  atten- 
tion from  its  picturesque  setting.  From  the  deepest  part  of 
the  cove,  across  the  wood  to  Kennebago  Lake,  is  only  six 
miles,  in  an  air-line,  that  would  end  near  Kennebago  Outlet. 
If  a  trail  were  cut  across  here  this  would  by  all  means  be  the 
quickest  and  most  direct  route  to  Kennebago  Lake,  and, 
before  another  season  opens,  a  carry  between  Cupsuptic  and 
Kennebago  will  undoubtedly  be  made. 

Pleasant  Island  juts  out  from  the  shore  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  and  on  it  is  located  several  log  cabins,  known  as  Pleas- 
ant Island  camps,  of  which  Wm.  Soule  is  the  proprietor. 
This  hotel  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the  midst  of  good  fishing 
and  hunting.    Terms  $2.00  per  day. 

Cupsuptic,  although  the  smallest  of  the  Androscoggin 
Lakes,  is  one  of  the  prettiest,  surrounded  as  it  is  by  shapely 
hills,  gradually  sweeping  up  to  mountain  heights,  covered  to 
their  summits  with  a  dense  and  unbroken  forest  of  hard  and 
soft  timber.  Cupsuptic  River  empties  into  the  head  of  the  lake, 
and  is  navigable  for  the  steamer  at  high  water  as  far  as  the  falls. 


1G4  FAEKAll'S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 


The  mouth  of  the  river  is  somewhat  difficult  to  find,  and  is 
close  in  by  the  western  shore  of  the  lake.  From  here  it 
twists  and  turns  for  several  miles,  through  a  meadow  or 
swamp,  dotted  with  dead  trees,  and  covered  with  tall,  rank 
grass,  and  various  kinds  of  bushes,  which  are  under  water 
part  of  the  year.  This  was  once  a  favorite  feeding-ground 
for  moose,  and  they  are  still  occasionally  met  with  in  the 
vicinity. 

Xothing  can  be  more  romantic  or  picturesque  than  a  sail 
on  this  winding  and  crooked  river.  A  mile  or  more  from  the 
lake  dead  trees  are  scattered  sparsely  along  either  bank. 
These  increase  for  a  while  as  you  go  up  the  river,  until  live 
ones  begin  to  mingle  with  them.  As  you  sail  farther  up  the 
stream,  a  live  forest  appears,  a  pleasant  change  from  the 
dead  growth;  and  the  banks  of  the  river  rise  gradually, 
until  they  reach  a  height  of  six  or  eight  feet.  "Camp 
Lucky,"  a  private  house  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river  as  you  go  up. 

The  distance  from  Indian  Rock  to  Cupsuptic  Falls  is  nine 
miles ;  four  from  the  rock  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  five 
up  the  river  to  the  falls ;  dead  water  all  the  way.  The  carry 
around  the  rapids  is  a  good  half  mile ;  it  leaves  the  stream  on 
the  left  bank,  following  an  old  "tote"  road.  The  walking  is 
good.  Above  the  rapids  you  take  a  row  boat,  and  continue 
on  eight  miles  to  the  Parmachenee  carry.  The  river  is  swift, 
crooked,  shallow  and  very  narrow  the  entire  distance.  In 
many  places  one  cannot  row  a  boat  even  where  the  water  is 
deep  enough  without  fouling  their  oars  each  side ;  the  great- 
er part  of  the  way  you  will  have  to  use  a  setting-pole,  but 
occasionally  you  can  row.  There  are  also  many  places  where 
you  will  have  to  get  out  and  drag  your  boat,  the  water  is  so 
shallow. 

The  Parmachenee  carry  begins  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  at  a  small  camp  which  Danforth  has  erected  for  the 
accommodation  of  travelers.  It  extends  across  the  range  of 
mountains  lying  between  the  Cupsuptic  and  Magalloway 
Rivers;  at  the  latter  river  it  ends  near  the  mouth  of  Black 
Cat  Brook.    There  is  boating  on  the  river  and  lake  up  to 


TIIE  AKDEOSCOGGrN"  LAIvES.  165 

Danforth's  Camp,  on  Treat's  Island,  in  Parmachenee, — a  dis- 
tance of  three  miles.  The  length  of  the  carry  is  variously  esti- 
mated, interested  parties  calling  the  distance  five  miles,  while 
some  of  the  sportsmen  claim  it  is  ten.  From  hearing  various 
opinions  and  after  a  personal  trial,  we  should  judge  that  it 
was  about  eight  miles.  It  is  up  hill  and  down,  quite  steep 
in  many  places,  and  dangerous  in  some  from  the  rough  foot- 
ing. In  fact  I  came  very  near  spraining  my  ankle  the  last 
time  I  crossed  it,  which  would  have  been  anything  but  a 
pleasant  incident.  Fred  Barker  will  furnish  guides  from  In- 
dian Rock  to  Parmachenee,  when  he  cannot  act  in  that  capac- 
ity himself.  In  summer  the  mail  is  carried  three  times  a 
week,  each  way  between  Camp  Caribou  (Danforth's)  and 
Camp  Kennebago,  Indian  Rock. 

In  some  places  the  pathway  has  been  made  smoother  by 
means  of  cedar  splits.  Ladies  are  transported  across  this 
carry  in  chairs,  and  we  should  think  they  would  have  to  be, 
if  many  visit  the  lake  this  way.  It  takes  a  woman  of  very 
robust  physique  to  stand  such  a  jaunt,  for  scarcely  one  in  a 
dozen  would  be  capable  of  taking  this  walk.  When  Mr. 
Danforth  had  his  family  visit  him  at  Camp  Caribou  last  sum- 
mer he  took  them  to  the  lake  by  the  way  of  the  Magalloway 
River.    Comment  is  unnecessary. 


< 
n 


PS 


CHAPTER    XT. 


\nn^tltt}  Yilh^t,  (5rmnnnlt^  nnix  il^t  iftnh  uF 


^?EFOKE      leaving      Indian 

cY  Eock  some  information  in 

regard   to  the    club    who 

have    their    headquarters 

here  will  not  come  amiss. 

Camp  Kennebago,  the 
head-Cjuarters  of  the  Oquos- 
soc  Angling  Association,  is 
situated  on  rising  ground, 
a  few  rods  from  the  Junc- 
tion of  the  Kennebago  and 
Rangeley  streams.  This 
camp  is  kept  open  from  May  loth  to  October  1st. 

Many  years  ago  an  old  hermit,  by  the  name  of  Smith, 
camped  at  Indian  Rock,  and  cleared  up  a  small  space  of  land. 
He  afterwards  sold  out  his  interest  in  the  place  to  Mr.  Rich- 
ardson, who  built  a  rough  camp  by  the  river-side  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  fishermen,  which  was  burned  down,  and  a 
handsome  and  commodious  boat-house  was  erected  on  the 
site.  Mr.  Richardson,  after  some  years,  disposed  of  his  in- 
terest in  the  place  to  the  Oquossoc  Angling  Association,  who 
built  a  fine  camp,  now  used  by  the  members,  and  made  many 
valuable  improvements  on  the  ground.  ]Mr.  Richardson  was 
engaged  by  the  club  as  superintendent,  which  i)Osition  he 
yet  holds,  and  he  is  emphatically  the  right  man  in  the  right 

i)lace. 

167 


lUS  FAiiiLUiS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 

'I'he  Oquossoc  Angling  Asi^ociation  was  incorporated  Feb. 
."itli,  1S70,  and  now  numbers  one  hundred  members.  The 
vahie  of  their  property  and  improvements  at  Camp  Kenne- 
bago  is  about  $25,000.  The  Association  own  several  build- 
ings besides  their  large  camp,  which  is  a  building  40x100 
feet ;  they  also  own  a  fleet  of  thirty  boats.  The  meetings  of 
the  Association  are  held  at  camp  Kennebago,  in  June  of  each 
year.  A.  D.  Lockwood,  President ;  Weston  Lewis,  Vice- 
l*resident ;  and  James  A.  AVilliamson,  Secretary  and  Treasurer. 

All  fishing  and  shooting  by  members  of  the  Association  is 
conducted  strictly  in  accordance  with  the  game  and  fish  laws 
of  Maine,  and  the  Association  has  been  largely  instrumental 
since  its  organization  in  preventing  the  breaking  of  the  fish 
laws  by  wandering  fishermen  and  others  who  have  no  regard 
for  the  preservation  of  the  fishing. 

The  Oquossoc  Angling  Association,  assisted  hj  others  of 
the  visiting  sportsmen,  who,  although  not  members  of  the 
club,  have  generally  camps  of  their  own,  during  the  past 
five  vears  have  stocked  the  water  in  the  immediate  vicinitv 
of  the  club-house  with  many  thousands  of  the  famous  land- 
locked salmon,  and  they  are  now  being  captured;  one  was 
taken  near  Camp  Kennebago,  weighing  tiro  jwunds-^  another, 
of  about  tlie  same  weight,  was  also  caught  by  one  of  the 
Andover  guides  at  the  tapper  Dam;  and  a  third  one  was 
caught  in  the  Oquossoc  Lake  by  a  gentleman  from  Boston. 
Each  season  some  of  these  fish  are  captured,  showing  that 
they  are  on  the  increase,  and  the  last  that  I  heard  of 
weighed,  according  to  report,  four  and  a  half  and  six 
pounds.  Quite  a  number  were  also  taken  in  the  vicinity  ol 
the  Middle  Dam  and  Rapid  River  last  year. 

The  Association  Camp  is  not  open  to  the  general  public ; 
l)ut  persons  who  are  sufficiently  well  acquainted  with  the 
members  can  o])tain  permission  to  stop  there  during  Julv  and 
August ;  for  the  months  of  June  and  September  it  is  reserved 
for  meml)ers. 

There  are  good  acconnnoj^lations  for  ladies  at  Camp  Kenne- 
bago during  the  months  of  July  and  August,  as  at  that  time 
there  are  verj'  few  members  of  the  Association  in  camp. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  1G9 

A  new  building  designed  to  give  better  accommodations 
to  ladies,  was  built  during  the  winter  of  1878.  It  stands  on 
the  old  site  of  the  Bald  Eagle  Camp,  the  latter  having  been 
moved  farther  to  the  west.  The  building  is  30x56  feet  on 
the  ground,  two  stories  high,  and  contains  eighteen  sleeping- 
rooms,  besides  a  large  sitting-room.  The  rooms  are  ceiled 
with  matched  boards,  and  comfortably  furnished. 

The  dining-room  in  the  main  camp  has  been  enlarged,  and 
most  of  the  beds  in  the  large  room  have  been  removed,  and 
that  is  now  used  as  a  common  sitting-room.  Otlier  improve- 
ments have  been  made  Mliich  add  to  the  attractions  and  com" 
forts  of  this  beautiful  place. 

The  regular  rate  of  board  in  the  camp  is  $2.00  i)er  day. 
Guides'  board  (which  is  always  paid  by  the  party  engaging 
the  guide),  §1.00  per  day.  The  Superintendent  will  furnish 
guides  at  $2.00  per  day,  and  boats  at  50  cents  per  day. 

The  managers  of  the  Oquossoc  Angling  Association  have 
retained  all  the  charming  semi-aboriginal  character  in  their 
camps,  grounds,  and  appointments.  While  the  furniture  is 
sufficiently  comfortable  to  suit  the  most  fastidious,  yet  the 
contrast  between  Camp  Kennebiigo  and  the  hotels  is  every- 
thing that  the  two  terms  indicate.  Tlie  true  idea  of  a  "lodge 
in  the  vast  wilderness"  is  Iiere  seen  and  enjoyed.  The  mem- 
bers are  not  confined  to  Camp  Kennebago  alone.  The  Asso- 
ciation own  camps  on  Birch  Island,  near  the  mouth  of  Cup- 
suptic  Stream ;  on  Kennebago  Stream,  seven  miles  from  the 
main  camp;  and  on  Little  Kennabago  Pond.  Among  the 
highly  appreciated  but  unusual  adjuncts  of  a  camp  in  tbe 
wild  woods  are  tw^o  cows,  a  horse,  poultry,  etc.,  a  fine  vege- 
table and  fruit  garden,  ice-house,  and  bath-room. 

Parties  going  through  the  lakes  should  by  all  means  visit 
Camp  Kennebago,  and  inspect  the  buildings  and  ])remises. 
The  Superintendent  is  courteous  and  pleasant,  and  will  give 
you  any  information  required. 

We  present  our  readers  with  two  views  of  Camp  Kenne- 
bago. The  first  is  made  from  the  "Rock,-'  showing  tlie  camp 
in  the  distance.  The  second  is  an  interior,  showing  the  main 
apartment  of  the  building,  -which  is  used  for  a  sleeping-room 


O 


o 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  171 

and  sitting-room.  This  is  a  very  comfortable  room,  with  a 
row  of  beds  on  each  side,  a  long  table  in  the  middle,  and  an 
immense  fireplace  in  one  corner,  which  is  capable  of  holding 
half  a  cord  of  wood  at  a  time,  and  is  itself  quite  a  curiosity. 
Books,  papers,  and  a  cabinet  organ,  help  the  members  while 
away  the  time  in  unpleasant  weather.  The  dining  room  opens 
out  of  the  large  room,  and  tables  can  be  set  for  about  forty 
people  at  once. 

We  would  speak  also  of  the  famous  brook  trout,  captured 
in  1867  at  the  outlet  of  Eangeley  Lake,  retained  a  captive  for 
three  weeks,  transported  alive  in  a  large  tank  of  water,  lined 
with  sponge,  and  supplied  with  fresh  air  by  an  air-pump, 
to  the  pond  of  George  Shepard  Page,  Stanley,  X.  J.  The 
tank  also  contained  a  female  brook  trout  Aveighing  eight  and 
one  quarter  pounds.  These  trout  have  both  died.  The  former 
iceighed  ten  'pounds  after  his  death.  It  is  a  matter  of  regret 
that  his  weight  when  captured  was  not  taken.  Professor 
Agassiz  and  Professor  Baird  have  stated  that  he  must  have 
weighed  eleven  and  a  half  pounds.  But,  at  the  weight  of  ten 
IDOuuds,  he  challenges  the  admiration  of  anglers  as  being  one 
of  the  largest  brook  trout  on  record.  His  stuffed  skin  forms 
a  iDrominent  ornament  of  the  office  of  Mr.  Page  in  New  York. 

From  Indian  Eockto  Oquossoe  Outlet  is  a  distance  of  two 
miles  through  the  forest.  This  carry  you  will  have  to 
walk,  but  you  can  have  your  baggage  transported  by  team. 
The  river  in  front  of  the  camp  is  crossed  by  the  means  of  a  rope 
ferry.  Arriving  at  the  lake  you  can  cross  over  to  the  Mount- 
ain View"  House,  which  is  but  a  short  distance  from  the 
wharf,  by  row^-boat  or  steamer,  passing  on  your  way  Lake 
Point  Cottage,  built  by  Theodore  Page,  but  now  the  proper- 
ty of  E.  A.  Tuttle,  Esq.,  of  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.  It  is  very 
prettilj'  situated  on  a  little  point  that  makes  into  the  lake 
near  the  outlet. 

A  new  hatching-house  for  the  propagation  of  trout  has  been 
built  by  several  parties  interested  in  the  preservation  of  the 
fishing  at  Oquossoe  Outlet,  is  now  in  successful  operation. 
About  one  million  of  the  spotted  brook  trout  are  hatched  at 
this  house  each  winter,  and  distributed  among  the  difierent 


172  FAHKAirS  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 


lakes  in  the  Androscoggin  chain.  For  several  years  past  from 
two  to  five  hundred  thousand  landlocked  salmon  eggs  have 
been  hatched  here  each  winter,  and  this  last  winter  one  hun- 
dred thousand  white-fish  eggs  have  been  hatched.  This  hatch- 
ing-house is  supported  and  kept  running  by  subscriptions 
from  the  fishermen  who  frequent  the  lakes.  The  house  is  taken 
care  of,  and  the  hatching  carried  on  by  Mr.  Frank  Hewey, 
one  of  the  oldest  guides  in  the  region. 

The  Mountain  View  House  was  built  at  Oquossoc  Outlet, 
on  the  old  site  of  Soule's  "Camp  Henry,"  during  the  winter 
of  1875,  by  Henry  T.  Kimball,  for  the  accommodation  of  tour- 
ists and  sportsmen.  We  present  our  readers  with  views  of  the 
old  camp  and  the  new  house.  Additions  were  made  to  the 
house  during  the  winter  of  1877,  and  will  accommodate  about 
seventy-five  guests.  The  terms  at  this  house  are  $2.00  per 
day.  A  livery  stable  is  connected  with  the  house,  and  Mr. 
Kimball  has  some  good  horses  and  teams  to  let.  It  is  only 
seven  miles  to  Eangeley  Village  from  the  Outlet,  and  those 
wishing  teams  can  have  them  at  any  time.  A  large  number 
of  row-boats  are  kept  at  the  hotel,  and  may  be  hired  at  reason- 
able prices. 

The  Mountain  View  House  is  kept  open  from  June  1  to  Oct.  1. 

Some  of  the  best  fishing  places  near  the  hotel  are  over  to 
the  South  Bog,  at  the  dam,  and  in  the  lake  at  the  Outlet. 

June  and  September  are  the  two  best  months  for  fishing 
here,  although  trout  may  be  found  in  July  and  August. 

Bald  Mountain,  which  stands  directly  opposite  the  Mount- 
ain View  House,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  Its  ascent  is  not  very  difficult,  and  the  beautiful 
landscape  it  overlooks  will  repay  anyone  for  the  time  and 
trouble  spent  in  making  it.  A  guide  is  not  really  necessary, 
although  perhaps  it  would  be  M-ell  to  take  one  with  you. 

Enbarking  on  the  jaunty  little  steamer  Molly-Chunkamunk 
(a  corruption  of  the  name  of  one  of  the  lower  lakes),  you 
leave  the  outlet,  and  in  a  few  minutes  pass  a  pretty  cottage 
on  the  left  hand,  the  property  of  John  E.  Toothaker. 

The  distance  to  Greenvale,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  is  nine 
miles.    Passing  out  of  the  cove  you  discry  South  Bog  Island 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  L.VIvES.  173 


in  the  distance,  and  in  its  vicinity  the  fishing  is  good.  Grad- 
ually the  boat  heads  to  the  cast,  and  you  obtain  a  fine  view  of 
the  Saddle-back,  and  other  mountain  ranges  surrounding  the 
lake.  Nearly  all  the  land  on  the  northern  side,  and  a  large 
part  of  the  southern  side,  of  the  Oquossoc  Lake  has  been 
cleared  up  and  put  into  farms ;  and  while  these  are  a  pretty 
and  quiet  feature  in  the  landscape,  they  detract  from  its  wild- 
ness  and  romance,  and  the  scenery  is  inferior  to  that  on  the 
lakes  below,  where  are  unbroken  forests  entirely  free  from 
farms. 

The  boat  follows  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake,  and  a  few 
miles  from  the  outlet  you  pass  on  the  left  a  pretty  little  cot- 
tage standing  at  the  edge  of  the  water,  built  for  a  summer 
residence,  by  a  Mr.  Ellis,  of  Gardiner,  Me.  Beyond  on  your 
right  is  Ram  Island,  containing  several  acres.  There  is  good 
fishing  near  it.  The  distance  to  Rangeley  Village,  or  the 
"City,"  as  it  has  been  nicknamed,  is  six  miles,  and  the  steam- 
er lands  at  the  head  of  a  small  cove,  that  heads  northeast  from 
the  lake.  Passengers  who  wish  to  stop  here  are  met  by 
teams  and  taken  up  to  the  hotels,  there  being  two  in  the  town. 
Both  of  the  houses  are  but  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  lake. 
The  smallest,  the  Oquossoc  House,  was  built  by  the  late  Abner 
Toothaker,  and  is  a  well-kept  hotel,  pleasantly  located  in  the 
buisness  part  of  the  village.  ^"Miorff"  and  Pierce  are  the  present 
proprietors. 

Rangeley  is  quite  a  village,  it  containing  about  thirty  dwell- 
ing-houses, two  stores,  a  post-office,  a  carriage-shop,  two 
blacksmith's  shops,  a  boat-builder's  shop,  a  saw  mill,  shoe- 
shop,  and  the  two  hotels  already  mentioned,  the  Rangeley 
Lake  House  being  the  latest  built.  This  new  and  spacious 
house  contains  about  fifty  rooms.  There  is  a  cupola  on  top 
of  the  main  house,  from  which  beautiful  and  extensive  views 
of  the  lake  and  surrounding  country  can  be  obtained,  and  the 
broad  piazzas  furnish  an  excellent  promenade.  This  hotel 
was  built  and  newly  furnished  during  the  winter  of  1877,  by 
John  A.  Burke,  Esq.,  and  has  acommodations  for  seventy- 
five  guests.  The  terms  are  $2.00  per  day.  John  B.  Marble 
is  the  present  proprietor.    The  Phillips  stage  puts  up  at  the 


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Till-:  ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  175 

house,  and  Mr.  II.  T.  Kiiiil)all  is  the  proprietor  of  the  line.  The 
distance  from   Eangeley  to    Pliilliiis  is    twenty-one    miles. 

Eeturuing  to  the  steamer,  we  start  for  Greenvale,  three 
miles  distant.  All  the  way  along  we  have  a  fine  veiw  of  the 
mountains  towering  up  in  every  direction.  As  we  apj^roach 
the  head,  the  lake  decreases  in  width,  forming  a  long,  narrow 
arm,  and  at  the  end  of  this  the  steamer  lands.  The  settlement 
here  is  small,  consisting  of  the  hotel,  i^ost-office,  and  a  few 
other  buildings.  You  walk  up  to  the  Greenvale  House,  a  well- 
kept  and  comfortable  hotel.  Lewis  E.  Bowley  &  Co.,  are  the 
present  i^roprietors.  You  caii  procure  a  good  dinner  here  for 
fifty  cents,  and  if  you  arc  going  to  Phillips  the  stage  will  call 
here  for  you.  The  fishing  in  the  spring  is  very  good  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  and  the  hotel  at  that  time  is  generally  well 
filled.  The  proprietors  have  a  good  livery-stable,  and  persons 
who  Avish  to  spend  a  few  days  here  can  obtain  teams  to  take 
them  in  any  direction.  From  a  high  hill,  in  a  pasture  near  the 
hotel,  a  splendid  view  of  Lake  Oquossoc  may  be  obtained,  in- 
cluding seme  fine  mountain  scenery.  The  extensive  and  va- 
ried landscape  spread  out  before  you  while  standing  on  the 
top  of  this  hill  and  overlooking  the  lake,  will  well  rej^ay  for 
the  tiresome  climb  to  its  summit. 

A  short  distance  from  the  Greenvale  house  is  a  little  mount- 
ain stream,  not  only  noted  for  its  excellent  fishing,  but  also 
for  its  fine  scenery.  Follow  it  up  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  road,  and  you  will  come  to  a  deep  ravine  cut  out  of  the 
solid  rock  by  the  powerful  action  of  water  during  the  spring 
freshets.  This  ravine  extends  up  the  stream  for  quite  a  dis- 
tance, the  brook  being  broken  all  through  it  by  rapids,  cas- 
cades, and  falls.  Along  its  sides,  where  the  water  has  washed 
out  all  the  earth,  huge  crevices  are  found  in  the  rocks,  and 
from  several  of  these,  in  the  last  of  June,  we  took  some 
s^Dlendid  ice,  many  of  the  pieces  being  two  or  three  pounds 
in  weight.  It  is  a  wild  and  romantic  place,  and  one  which  is 
eagerly  sought  after  by  lovers  of  nature.  The  dark  rocks, 
the  water  flashing  in  the  sunlight,  the  numerous  natural 
bridges,  caused  by  trees  which  have  been  uprooted  by  tem- 
pests and  have  fallen  across  the  ravine,  the  roar  of  the  cataract, 


176 


FAKKAirS  ILTA  sriJATED  GUIDE    TO 


the  o-ratef 111  .>;hade  to  be  had  under  the  old  forest-trees,  are  all 
cono-enial  to  one  who  wishes  to  \\alk  in  nature's  solitudes,  and 
who  can  appreciate  such  a  wild  country.  When  visiting  the 
Greenvale  House,  by  all  means  spare  half  a  day  to  visit  tliis 
brook,  as  we  are  confident  you  will  be  satisfied  with  the  time 
so  spent.  We  publish  several  stereoscopic  views  which  we 
made  in  this  vicinity. 


CHAPTER   XII. 


iO 


QUOSSOC  Lake  is  the  highest  in 
the  Androscoggin  chain,  and  is 
1,552  feet  above  tide-water.  It  is 
nine  miles  long,  and  from  one  and  a 
half  to  three  miles  wide.  The  town  of 
Eangeley  nearly  surrounds  the  lake,  and 
is  mostly  on  high  land.  Of  its  early 
history  a  writer  says:  "Eangeley  per- 
petuates the  name  of  an  eccentric  but 
thrifty  English  squire,  who  penetrated  the  wilderness  thus 
far  many  years  ago,  and  laid  the  foundation  of  the  prosper- 
ous plantation  which  is  his  monument  to-day.  His  story  is  a 
romantic  and  interesting  one. 

"Mr.  Eangeley,  for  a  time  after  coming  to  this  country', 
was  a  merchant  in  Philadelphia,  and  later  a  land  speculator 
in  Virginia,  with  all  i)arts  of  which  State  he  was  very  famil- 
iar. He  is  described' as  having  the  substantial  build  and 
florid  countenance  of  the  traditional  English  squire,  with  a 
corresponding  hearty  manner,  but  an  exceptional  degree  of 
politeness  and  polish  for  a  man  of  his  kind ;  he  also  dressed 
well,  and  was  given  to  hospitality. 

"To  his  early  life  he  seldom  referred ;  and  what  led  him  to 
this  remote  corner  of  the  wilderness  of  Maine  can  only  be 
conjectured.  Perhaps  it  was  the  scent  of  mineral  values,  for 
he  was  known  to  claim  the  existence  of  gold  ore  upon  his 
township ;  and  he  was  a  man  who  knew  what  iron  pyrites 
were.  The  township,  as  he  owned  it,  comprised  somewhere 
from  65,000  to  70,000  acres,  and  he  had  large  plans  for  its  de- 
velopment.    The   present  extensive  and  growing   system  of 

177 


178  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


navigation  and  lumber  portage  seems  to  have  been  a  dream  of 
his  own,  for  he  f ullj'^  foresaw  the  resources  and  capabilities  of 
his  domain.  He  built  various  mills,  some  of  which  remain  to 
this  day.  These  were  superintended  by  his  sons,  who  had 
the  look  of  huntsmen ;  and  he  lived  with  his  wife  and  two 
daughters  in  what  was  then  the  only  good  house  of  the  region. 
This  house  is  believed  to  be  still  in  existence,  but  in  a  decayed 
and  squalid  condition. 

"Mr.  Rangeley  and  his  wife  were  reputed  to  possess  between 
them  a  considerable  fortune ;  but  his  i)lans  were  on  so  great 
a  scale,  and  his  ability  to  deal  with  the  rude  and  the  shrewd  so 
limited,  that  he  worked  at  no  small  disadvantage,  at  heavy 
cost,  and  finally  with  serious  loss.  This  led  him  to  sell  his 
plantation  for  850,000 ;  but  financial  disturbance  so  crij^pled 
the  purchaser,  who  had  made  but  part  payment,  that  the 
property'-  fell  back  into  Mr.  Rangeley's  hands.  Subsequently, 
with  the  return  of  better  times  he  succeeded,  however  in  dis- 
posing of  it,  and  removed  to  Portland.  He  was  there  estab- 
lished as  early  as  1842,  and  there  he  died  not  later  than  1862. 
Members  of  his  family  are  said  to  be  still  living  in  Virginia. 

"Mr.  Rangeley  had  been  followed  into  his  forest  i^aradise 
by  a  score  or  two  of  families,  one  after  the  other,  and  for 
their  accommodation  he  built  a  small  church  or  chapel,  which, 
distinguished  by  its  simple  coat  of  red  paint,  had  probably 
been  i^reached  in  by  some  of  the  'ruling  elders'  of  the  present 
time.  It  is  in  the  record  that  the  worthy  English  squire  did 
not  himself  attend  the  services  in  this  secluded  house  of  prayer, 
but  caused  worshii^  therein  to  be  held  after  the  manner  of  the 
Episcopal  Church,  for  the  sake  of  his  wife,  who  is  spoken  of 
as  a  most  kindly  and  benevolent  person. 

"Mi\  Rangeley's  greatest  public  work  was  a  road  construct- 
ed through  'a  grand  and  savage  pass'  of  the  Saddleback  range. 
Its  cost  was  set  down  at  $30,000;  but  the  road  itself  is  now 
wholly  obliterated.  The  new  road  is  spoken  of  as  'wholly 
uninteresting'  in  comparison.  The  present  writer  can  saj'- 
nothing  as  to  the  location  of  this  ancient  highway,  but  re- 
peats the  tradition  respecting  it  as  received  from  a  gentleman 
of   Boston    who    personally    knew  Mr.  Rangelej^,  and  who 


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180  FARKAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

visited  him  in  his  retreat  several  times  prior  to  1840 — who 
is,  indeed,  the  authority  for  all  these  interesting  particulars 
concerning  this  realh'  notable  and  agreeable  character." 

Kennebago    Lake. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  from  Rangeley  Village 
to  Lake  Kennebago,  eleven  miles  distant,  a  buckboard  run- 
ning between  the  two  places  daily.  Leaving  the  hotel  you 
drive  down  below  the  village  for  perhaps  a  mile,  then  turning 
to  the  right  drive  two  miles  farther,  the  carriage-road  ending 
on  top  of  a  high  hill,  from  which  you  get  a  very  extensive 
view.  From  this  point  you  can  see  nearly  the  w^hole  of 
Oquossoc  Lake,  Gull  Pond,  the  west  side  of  Mount  Saddle- 
back, and  some  twenty  other  prominent  peaks  which  have 
not  been  christened.  Beyond  this  point  a  rough  road  continues 
to  the  lake,  passing  through  a  short  piece  of  open  country  be- 
fore reaching  the  woods.  On  your  way  j'ou  pass  several 
ponds  on  the  left  of  the  road,  where  good  trout-fishing  may 
be  had  in  the  fall.  Three  hours  is  considered  the  ordinary 
time  in  which  to  make  the  walk.  The  road  is  rough  the 
whole  of  the  way,  and  you  will  not  care  to  do  it,  even  if 
you  can,  much  under  that  time.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  the 
lake  you  will  find  Grant  and  Richardson's  Camp,  known  as 
the  Forest  Retreat  House.  It  is  two  stories,  with  a  piazza, 
and  contains  about  twenty  rooms.  Transient  board  is  $2.00 
per  day.  There  is  a  daily  mail  in  summer  between  Rangeley 
and  Kennebago,  the  post-oflElce  being  in  the  hotel.  The  camp 
is  pleasantly  located,  commanding  a  fine  view  down  the  lake. 
They  have  also  several  other  camps  about  Kennebago  Lake, 
one  at  Little  Kennebago,  and  a  number  at  Seven  Ponds. 

The  fishing  is  pretty  fair  here  the  entire  season ;  but  the 
fish  do  not  run  so  large  as  in  the  lakes  below.  While  we 
were  stopping  here  one  summer,  Mr.  L.  T.  Reed,  of  the 
Oquossoc  Angling  Association,  caught,  while  trolling,  a  very 
pretty  trout,  that  tipped  the  scales  at  four  and  a  half  pounds. 
This  was  an  unusually  large  trout  for  this  lake ;  but  small 
fish,  that  weigh  from  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a 
half,  are  very  plenty.     Some  of  the  best  places  for  fishing  at 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIv^ES.  181 

Kennebago  are  at  the  Outlet,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  the 
Big  Inlet  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  lake  from  Crosby's 
lower  camp.  About  a  mile  above  the  Big  Inlet,  on  the  same 
side  of  the  lake,  is  a  good  place  for  trolling.  Blanchard  and 
Flat  Iron  Ponds,  within  a  short  distance  of  the  hotel,  are  well 
stocked  with  small  trout,  averaging  from  a  quarter  to  a  half 
pound  each. 

In  going  to  Kennebago  it  is  unnecessary  to  take  a  guide, 
as  you  can  procure  one  after  arrival,  and  if  you  have  any  bag- 
gage to  carry  you  can  get  it  hauled  in  by  the  buckboard,  that 
now  runs  regularly  each  day  in  summer.  If  you  do  not  ob- 
ject to  getting  well  shaken,  you  can  ride  on  the  team ;  but  a 
saddle  horse  is  prefereable.  Also  take  our  advice,  and  don't 
go  until  August  or  September.  We  were  there  the  very  last 
of  June,  and  the  black  flies  and  mosquitoes  were  a  perfect 
nuisance.  We  found  them  more  troublesome  at  Kennebago 
than  anywhere  else  in  the  lake  region.  Tar  and  oil  w^ere  of  no 
use,  and  nothing  but  smoke  M'ould  clear  them.  We  present 
our  readers  with  two  views  of  Kennebago  Lake,  one  from 
the  head,  embracing  Snowman's  Point,  the  other  from  a 
spot  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  near  Crosby's  old  camp.  The  lit- 
tle steamer  "Caribou,"  Captain  Thomas,  plys  upon  Kennebago 
Lake  and  takes  parties  out  for  sport  or  pleasure. 

The   Seven    Ponds 

lie  about  twelve  miles  north  of  Kennebago,  but  by  the  trav- 
eled road,  the  distance  from  the  Forest  Retreat  House  to  the 
ponds  is  about  twenty  miles.  Although  difficult  to  reach, 
these  ponds  have  been  visited  by  quite  a  number  of  sportsmen. 
There  is  good  fishing  in  all  the  ponds,  and  the  surrounding 
locality  is  an  excellent  hunting-ground.  Messrs.  Grant  and 
Richardson  have  a  new  camp  at  Beaver  Pond,  and  there  is 
also  another  camp  that  can  be  used  at  Big  Island  Pond.  The 
easiest  way  to  reach  them  is  to  go  up  the  Kennebago  Stream, 
and  across  Little  Kennebago  in  a  boat.  Then  a  walk  of  about 
seven  miles  will  bring  you  to  the  first  pond,  and  from  this  it 
is  easy  to  reach  the  others. 


182  FAPJJAirS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Shooting  a  Moose  on  the  Magalloway. 

On  the  moraiDg  of  October  4,  1883,  Messrs.  William  B.  Gar- 
field and  William  A.  Caug'hej^,  of  AValtham,  Mass.,  who  were 
on  their  tenth  annual  tour  to  Lake  Umbagog,  left  the  Lakeside 
Hotel,  in  Cambridge,  for  a  trip  up  the  Magalloway  to 
Parmachenee  Lake.  Embarking  on  the  fleet  little  steamer 
"Parmacheuee,"  •with  their  boat  in  tow,  they  were  landed  at 
the  lower  Magalloway  settlement  at  noon.  On  their  way 
across  the  lake  and  up  the  river  they  were  fortunate  enough 
to  shoot  ten  black  ducks,  these  water-fowl  being  very  plenty, 
all  of  which,  through  the  kindness  of  the  captain,  they  Avere 
enabled  to  secure. 

At  the  steamboat-landing  at  Magalloway  a  team  met  them 
and  took  their  stores  and  baggage  to  the  L^pper  Settlement, 
while  the  gentlemen  paddled  up  the  river  in  their  boat.  Thej'" 
reached  Fred  Flint's  early  that  afternoon,  and  stopped  at  his 
house  over  night. 

The  next  morning,  having  been  joined  by  their  guide,  Mr. 
F.  F.  Mason,  their  boat  and  luggage  were  loaded  on  a  double 
team,  and,  crossing  the  carry,  they  reached  the  dead  water 
at  ten  o'clock. 

Launching  their  boat  their  things  were  stowed  in  it  to  the 
best  advantage,  and  a  few  moments  later  the  boat,  propelled 
by  Mason's  sinewy  arms,  was  rapidly  making  her  way  up  the 
river,  and  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  they  reached  the 
Lower  Metallak  Pond,  and  went  into  camp.  Several  days 
were  spent  here,  the  time  being  passed  pleasantlj'-  in  hunting 
and  fishing  excursions  around  the  neighborhood,  and  with 
the  best  results,  as  the  party  did  not  return  to  camp  a  single 
time  without  either  game  or  fish.  One  evening  Garfield  pro- 
posed that  they  start  for  Parmachenee  the  next  day,  and,  his 
friend  and  guide  being  willing,  arrangements  were,.made  for 
the  trip. 

The  following  morning,  after  an  early  breakfast,  they  start- 
ed up  the  river.  "Now,  boys,"  cried  the  guide,  as  the  boat  rip- 
pled through  the  water,  "have  your  guns  in  readiness ;  for 
we  are  liable  to  run  across  a  deer,  caribou,  or  moose,  or  some 


THE  AXDROSCOGGrN"  LAIvES.  183 

other  wild  animal  that  we  may  be  compelled  to  shoot  in  self- 
defence." 

At  this  suggestive  remark  Garfield  laid  the  forefinger  of  his 
left  hand  thoughtfully  along  the  left  side  of  his  nose,  rub- 
bing that  member  slightly,  while  Caughey,  turning  a  look  of 
amazement  upon  the  guide,  wiggled  his  starboard  ear.  It  is 
quite  a  trick  to  wiggle  one  of  your  ears  without  touching  it ; 
if  you  don't  believe  it,  practise  before  a  looking-glass. 

What  has  that  to  do  with  the  moose  ?  Oh,  nothing,  nothing. 
I  beg  pardon ;  it  is  wholly  irrelevant. 

Placing  their  arms  in  readiness,  they  kept  a  sharp  lookout 
for  game,  and  about  noon,  as  thej^  were  turning  one  of  the 
sharp  bends  for  which  the  Magalloway  River  is  famous,  they 
saw  a  large  animal,  at  the  water's  edge,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  stream,  about  two  miles  above  the  Upper  Metallak  Pond. 
It  seemed  to  be  feeding,  and  the  sight  almost  paralyzed  the 
sportsmen. 

"Spruce  tops  and  beaver  dams  I"  w^hispered  the  guide,  "If 
that  ere  aint  a  moose  I'll  never  sight  a  rifle  ag'in."  Catching 
up  their  rifles,  the  gentlemen  opened  fire  on  the  monarch  of 
the  Maine  woods,  and  after  standing  five  shots,  the  moose 
turned  and  rushed  into  the  forest. 

A  few  rapid  strokes  of  the  paddle  sent  the  boat  to  the 
river's  bank,  and  jumping  on  shore,  the  three  sportsmen 
started  on  the  trail,  the  guide  in  advance.  As  there  were  no 
blood-marks  visible  the  doubt  and  excitement  of  the  party 
were  intense. 

They  follow^ed  the  tracks  a  number  of  rods,  and  had  about 
concluded  they  had  shot  wild,  when  Caughej",  w^ho  now  had  the 
lead,  gave  a  regular  war-whooj),  and  leaped  into  the  air  some 
twenty  feet  more  or  less,  and  as  he  came  dow^n  exclaimed, 
"Here  he  is,  dead  as  a  hammer!"  A  shot  through  the 
heart,  and  another  through  the  lungs,  had  effectually  termi- 
nated the  career  of  this  particular  moose. 

The  party  then  proceeded  to  skin  and  cut  up  the  animal. 
Some  of  the  meat  w-as  taken  up  to  the  camp  at  Parma- 
chenee,  and  w^hat  the  gentlemen  did  not  need  themselves  dur- 
ing their  stay  in  the  wilderness  they  gave  to  hunters  and 


184 


FAllK.VirS  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 


trappers,  and  distributed  among  the  people  of  the  Magallo- 
way  settlements. 

The  head  of  the  moose  which  was  adorned  by  a  line  pair  of 
antlers,  was  taken  home  by  Mr.  Caughey,  and,  after  being 
properly  set  up,  was  placed  on  exhibition  at  a  Fair  held  in 
AValtham,  by  the  Waltham  Watch  Factory  Band,  and  now 
ornaments  the  dining-room  in  Mr.  Caughey's  liouse. 

The  estimated  weight  of  this  animal  was  from  one  thous- 
and to  fourteen  hundred  pounds,  and  the  taxidermist  who  set 
up  the  head  said  it  was  one  of  the  largest  he  had  ever  seen. 
We  publish  an  engraving  of  the  head,  also  an  illustration  of 
the  shooting. 


CHAPTER  Xin. 


t 


$  nnix  'B[nrmiugftin  \mi^.     1[rum 


AKE  the  cars  iu  the  morning  at  8.30  over  the  Wes- 
ern,  or  at  9.00  over  the  Eastern  Division  of  the  Bos- 
ton &  Maine  Eaih'oad,  and  on  arrival  at  Portland 
change  to  the  Maine  Central  train.  All  passengers 
going  over  the  Maine  Central  Eailroad  change  cars 
in  the  magnificent  new  Union  Depot,  near  the  foot 
of  Congress  street,  and  passengers  going  beyond  Portland 
dine  here.  Or  you  may  leave  Boston  at  night  by  one  of  the 
Portland  Steam  Packet  Company's  fine  steamers,  reaching 
Portland  early  next  morning  and  take  the  morning  train  for 
Farmington,  leaving  Portland  at  8.45,  and  arriving  at  Phillips, 
via  Sandy  River  Railroad  at  1.25  p.  m.  and  continue  on  to 
Rangeley.  The  afternoon  train  over  the  Maine  Central  Rail- 
road leaves  Portland  at  1.15  for  Farmington,  ninety  miles 
distant.  Leaving  the  Union  Depot,  Woodford's,  a  thickly  set- 
tled suburb  of  Portland,  is  the  next  station,  and  beyond  this 
Westbrook,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Portland  and 
Rochester  Railroad.  You  are  now  fairly  outside  the  city,  hav- 
ing nearly  circled  it  on  the  back  side ;  the  road  runs  through  a 
comparatively  level  farming  country,  and  passes  successively 
the  stations  of  Falmouth,  Cumberland,  Walnut  Hill,  Gray,  and 
Xew  Gloucester.  From  this  point  the  line  of  road  gradually 
draws  near  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad,  crossing  it  at  Dan- 
ville Junction,  twenty-nine  miles  from  Portland.  From  here 
a  short  run  of  six  miles  brings  you  to  the  large  manufactur- 
ing cities  of  Auburn  and  Lewiston.  Stopping  at  the  first- 
named  a  few  moments,  the  train  then  crosses  the  Audroscoo-- 

185 


o 

H 


72 


02 


THE  ANDIIOSCOUGIN  LAKES.  187 


gin  Eiver,  over  ii  handsome  ami  woll-constructed  iron  bridge, 
from  ^vhich  you  obtain  very  satisfactory  views  of  the  river, 
the  falls,  and  the  numerous  mills,  whose  walls  send  forth  a 
busy  clamor  from  morn  till  night.  Leaving  I>ewiston,  and 
turning  north,  the  train  passes  the  station  of  Greene  and 
reaching  Leeds  Junction,  a  stop  is  made,  and  passengers  for 
Farmington  and  points  beyond,  leave  the  cars  and  have 
twenty  minutes  to  wait  for  the  Farmington  train. 

The  Maine  Central  Eailroad  Company  have  built  a  fine  new 
station  at  Leeds  Junction,  divided  into  several  apartments 
among  which  is  a  cosy  and  comfortable  smoking  room.  The 
grounds  around  the  station  are  very  attractive,  being  neatly 
laid  out,  and  decorated  with  flowers.  The  wait  here  which 
would  be  tedious  and  disagreeable  on  some  roads,  is  simply 
one  more  pleasant  experience  among  the  many  of  the  day. 
Before  you  hardly  realize  it  the  time  has  flown,  and  boarding 
the  Farmington  train,  you  are  again  speeding  swiftly  along, 
the  next  stations  being  Curtis'  Corner  and  Leeds  Centre, 
where  there  is  a  large  pond.  It  lies  off  to  the  right  of  the 
railroad.  A  small  excursion  steamer  runs  on  the  pond  in 
summer,  visiting  Winn  Village,  on  the  opposite  shore,  dai^y. 
North  Leeds  and  Strickland's  Ferry  on  the  Androscoggin 
River  are  the  next  stopping-places.  The  distant  mountains 
to  the  North  now  begin  to  grow  bolder,  and  look  larger  with 
every  mile  that  you  ride.  Between  North  Leeds  and  Jay 
Bridge,  for  the  most  of  the  way,  the  road  follows  the  Andros- 
coggin valley,  the  river  being  on  your  left,  and  in  this  vicin- 
ity the  landscape  is  charming.  With  the  sparkling  river  in 
the  foreground,  and  the  baretopped  mountains  in  the  distance, 
pretty  pictures  are  formed  with  every  curve  of  the  road. 

East  Livermore  is  the  next  station  beyond  Strickland's 
Ferry,  then  come,  in  the  order  named,  Ijivermore  Falls, 
where  there  is  a  large  dam  across  the  river  furnishing  power 
for  several  pulp  mills,  Jay  Bridge,  North  Jay,  where  there  is 
an  extensive  granite  quarry,  Wilton,  East  Wilton,  and  West 
Farmington.  While  the  cars  are  crossing  the  trestle-work 
over  the  river  and  intervale,  you  can  see  for  miles  up  the 
Sandy  River  Valley,  until  the  distant  mountains  shut  off  the 


188  FAKRAU'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


view.  The  bridge  and  trestle-work  connecting  West  Farm- 
ington  and  the  "hill"  is  about  thirty  feet  high,  and  curved  to 
a  half  circle. 

You  arrive  at  the  Farmington  depot  at  5.15  P.  M.,  and,  if 
you  are  going  through  to  Phillips  the  same  night,  change  to 
the  Sandy  River  Railroad,  narrow  gauge,  whose  cars  are  in 
waiting  in  the  depot.  The  time  between  Farmington  and 
Phillips  by  the  narrow  gauge  is  about  an  hour  and  twenty 
minutes,  and  the  fare  is  one  dollar.  If  you  prefer  to  stop  over 
night  in  Farmington,  and  go  up  on  the  morning  train,  you 
will  find  good  hotel  accommodations. 

Farmington  is  situated  mostly  on  high  land,  pleasantly 
located  overlooking  the  Sandv  River  Vallev,  and  the  views 
from  many  parts  of  the  town  are  beautiful.  Its  streets  are 
hard,  and  free  from  superfluous  dust,  and  nearly  all  of  them 
can  boast  of  a  double  row  of  shade-trees,  thus  combining 
beauty  and  comfort. 

The  fine  drives  in  the  vicinity  will  enable  strangers  to  spend 
a  few  days  to  advantage,  if  thej'-  have  the  time  to  spare. 

A  fine  landscape  view  may  be  obtained  from  the  top  of 
Court  street,  looking  west.  Povv  der  House  Hill  also  furnishes 
a  magnificent  view  up  and  down  the  valley  for  miles.  From 
a  hill  near  the  Elm  House  in  West  Farmington  a  fine  view  of 
the  intervale,  the  railroad  bridge,  and  the  east  part  of  the 
town,  may  be  obtained. 

The  State  ]!s'ormal  School  at  Farmington  consists  of  two 
buildings,  one  of  brick,  the  other  of  wood,  located  near  the 
centre  of  the  town,  on  the  corner  of  Academy  and  Main 
Streets.  There  was  formerly  a  young  ladies'  seminary  here, 
known  as  the  "Willows,"  but  the  school  has  been  closed,  and 
the  buildings  re-modeled,  and  are  now  known  as  the  Hotel 
Willows.  The  house  is  very  eligiblj^  situated,  on  an  eminence 
near  the  centre  of  the  village,  commanding  a  broad  south- 
west view  of  the  intervale  and  country  beyond.  The  large 
willows  in  front  of  the  Hotel  originated  in  a  peculiar  manner. 
Many  years  ago  an  old  gentleman  by  the  name  of  Hiram 
Belcher,  who  had  been  to  Augusta,  cut  some  willow  switches 
on  the  way  home  to  touch  up  his  horse  with.    ^Mieu  he 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAI\ES.  189 

arrived  he  stuck  them  down  in  a  row  near  his  house,  and 
they  grew  to  be  the  trees  from  which  the  "Willow  School" 
derived  its  name. 

Clear  Water  Pond. 

This  beautiful  sheet  of  water  is  situated  in  the  town  of 
Industry,  about  five  miles  from  the  village  of  Farmington. 
The  pond  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long  by  half  a  mile  wide, 
and  is  bordered  by  a  heavy  growth  of  forest  on  all  sides, 
which  forms  splendid  grounds  for  picnic  parties.  The  west- 
ern shore  of  the  pond  is  a  regular  semicircle,  while  the  east- 
ern shore  is  indented  with  several  little  bays,  that  add 
materialh"  to  the  beauty  of  its  outline.  A  fine  view  of  the 
pond  and  the  country  beyond  may  be  obtained  from  the  road, 
near  the  outlet.  But  the  best  view  of  the  pond  is. obtained 
from  a  high  hill  back  of  Mr.  Tibbett's  house,  two  miles  from 
the  outlet. 

At  this  place  you  may  not  only  get  a  perfect  view  of  the 
beautiful  sheet  of  water  below  you,  but  in  the  far  distance, 
forming  a  fitting  background  for  so  romantic  a  picture,  are 
some  of  the  most  commanding  mountains  in  this  section  of 
the  country;  and  Saddleback  has  the  prominence  over  all  the 
others.  The  drive  to  this  pond  is  lovely,  and  if  you  wish  to 
try  your  luck  with  a  rod,  you  will  find  plenty  of  trout  to  rise 
to  your  fiy.  Boats  for  rowing  or  sailing  are  kept  on  the  pond 
to  let,  and  a  boatman  will  accompany  jon  if  you  wish. 

Rcinbow  Cascade 

is  situated  on  a  small  stream  known  as  Hillman's  Brook, 
five  miles  from  the  village.  You  follow  the  county  road  to 
Phillips,  as  far  as  Backus'  Corner,  then,  turning  to  the  right, 
take  the  New  Vineyard  road,  and  drive  for  about  three  miles, 
until  you  reach  Mr.  Ilillnian's  house.  Fasten  your  horse  here, 
then  walk  down  to  the  mill,  which  is  in  sight  from  the  house, 
pass  through  it,  and  climb  the  hill  beyond  for  a  short  dis- 
tance, until  you  reach  the  w^oods;  entering  the*  forest 
from  the  left,  and  w^alkingafew  rods  farther,  you  reach  a  cool 
and  shady  dell  inviting  j^ou  to  repose.    In  the  centre  of  this 


a 


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25 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN^  LAIvES.  191 

beautiful  valley  flows  Ilillman's  Brook,  and  on  this  the  cas- 
cade is  situfited.  This  cascade  is  one  of  the  finest  we  have 
ever  seen.  The  waters  flow  over  a  ledge  fifty  feet  high.  At 
the  top  it  is  about  three  feet  across,  and  at  the  bottom  about 
thirty  feet  wide.  Over  this  rock  the  water  pours,  forming  a 
sheet  of  silvery  spray  that  widens  every  foot  in  its  de- 
scent, until  at  the  bottom  it  covers  the  whole  face  of  the 
ledge.  As  the  water  leaps  from  crag  to  crag,  it  shimmers  in 
the  sunlight,  which  struggles  in  through  the  forest  trees  by 
which  the  cascade  is  surrounded,  and  forms  quite  a  well- 
defined  rainbow.  This  is  to  be  seen  only  on  the  right  side  of 
the  cascade,  looking  up  the  stream.  Below  the  cascade,  for 
several  feet,  are  semicircular  walls  of  rock.  At  the  top  of  the 
fall  is  a  small  rock,  which  divides  the  stream ;  it  starts  in  two 
rivulets,  and  after  a  fall  of  a  few  feet  these  join,  and  the 
whole  stream  spreads  out,  like  a  silvery  sheen,  covering  the 
rude  ledge  with  a  bridal  veil.  The  seclusion  of  this  lovely 
place,  the  rays  of  sunlight  which  filter  in,  the  dark-green  foli- 
age of  the  birches  and  maples,  the  surrounding  rocks,  the 
deep  gorges  through  which  the  waters  flow  after  their  gentle 
descent  from  the  cliffs  above, — all  combine  to  make  one  of 
the  most  romantic  places  ever  seen,  and  you  should  not  fail 
to  visit  it.  Beclining  upon  a  mossy  bank,  and  watching  this 
beautiful  cascade,  a  sense  of  rest  and  peace  steal  over  you, 
as  if  you  were  shut  out  from  the  toils  and  troubles  of  the 
world,  and  you  feel  loath  to  leave  this  charming  spot. 

You  leave  Farmington  for  Phillips  via  Sandy  River  Rail- 
road. This  is  a  narrow-gauge  road,  the  rails  being  only  two 
feet  apart,  and  everything  used  in  its  construction,  and  all  its 
rolling-stock,  are  correspondingly  small  and  light.  The 
rolling-stock  and  part  of  the  rails  were  f  ormerlj^  the  property 
of  the  Bedford  &  Billerica  (Mass.)  Narrow-gauge  Railroad 
that  went  into  bankruptcy  through  ineflficient  management. 
When  the  property  was  sold,  the  Sandy  River  Railroad  Com- 
pany bought  it  for  a  mere  song,  and  this  made  a  great  differ- 
ence in  the  cost  of  construction  of  their  road. 

From  the  Maine  Central  depot  the  road  runs  north-west, 
keeping  well  up  on  the  hill-side,  to  avoid  the  heavy  freshets 


192  FAIULUrS  ILTXTSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 

that  the  Sandy  Kiver  occasionally  indulges  in.  A  mile  from 
the  station  it  crosses  the  old  Phillips  stage  road,  rising  by 
frequent  and  short  grades,  sixty  feet  to  the  summit,  two 
miles  from  the  village,  when  a  like  succession  of  grades 
brings  it  back  to  the  lirst  level. 

Fairbanks  Mills  is  the  first  station  of  any  importance,  and 
is  two  miles  and  a  half  from  Farmington  Village,  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  town.  This  part  of  the  road  furnishes 
some  fine  mountain  views.  A  mile  or  so  beyond  the  Mills 
Village  the  road  strikes  the  river,  and  follows  ir.  up,  clinging 
to  the  side  of  the  higher  banks,  and,  crossing  a  large  number 
of  gullies,  but  with  no  heavy  grades,  it  reaches  South  Strong. 
Leaving  this  station,  the  road  commences  an  up  grade  to 
reach  the  high  bluffs  back  from  the  river,  the  lower  land  being 
always  in  danger  from  high  water.  Here  are  the  heaviest 
grades  on  the  line,  for  half  a  mile  reaching  one  hundred  and 
five  feet  to  the  mile.  Reaching  this  summit  there  is  a  half 
mile  of  nearly  level  road,  and  then  it  descends  to  Strong  Vil- 
lage. This  is  the  most  important  station  between  Farming- 
ton  and  Phillips,  and  furnishes  a  fair  share  of  the  business  of 
the  road.  Strong  Village  contains  quite  a  number  of  nice 
dwelling-houses,  a  hotel,  excelsior  manufactory,  and  other 
industries.  It  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  towns  in  Franklin 
County. 

The  Sandy  River  road  connects  at  Strong  with  the  Franklin 
and  Megantic,  running  15  miles  north  to  Kingfield.  This 
new  road  opens  up  the  wilderness  in  the  Dead  River  region, 
and  has  already  proved  a  success.  The  guage  of  this  road  is 
two  feet,  and  the  rolling  stock  the  same  size  and  kind  as  its 
neighbor.  Samuel  W.  Sargeant  of  Boston  is  President,  and 
Phillip  II.  Stubbs  is  General  Manager  of  the  Kingfield    road. 

Leaving  Strong  Village  the  road  crosses  the  Porter  Stream, 
over  a  bridge  consisting  of  two  lattice  spans,  of  sixty  feet 
each,  approached  by  a  trestle,  making  the  whole  bridge  about 
eight  hundred  feet.  The  trestle-work  is  some  fifty  or  sixty 
feet  high.  Beyond  the  bridge  the  road  follows  the  curves  of 
the  hills,  keeping  high  enough  up  to  avoid  danger  from  fresh- 
ets, and,  when  within  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  Phillips  Vil- 


THE  AXDEOSCOGGIX  L.UG^S.  193 

lage,  crosses  the  Sandy  Itivcr,  over  a  lattice  bridge  of  oue 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  span,  there  being  trestles  at  each  end, 
making  the  entire  lengtli  two  hundred  and  forty  feet.  The 
road  then  follows  the  west  bank  of  the  river  to  the  station, 
which  is  convenieuth"  located  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  ])ut 
a  short  distance  from  the  main  street,  and  near  the  Post  and 
Telegraph  office.  There  are  two  passenger  trains  a  day  over 
the  road,  leaving  Farniington  at  9.15  A.  ]N[.,  and  5.15  P.  M. 
Returning,  leave  Phillips  at  7.15  A.  M.,  and  1.30  P.  M. 

Mr.  C.  E.  Mansfield,  formerly  superintendent  of  the  Sandj^ 
Eiver  Railroad,  had  charge  of  the  construction  of  the  road, 
and  also  designed  the  cars  and  locomotives  that  run  on  it.  It 
is  through  his  energetic  and  well-directed  efforts  that  the  road 
was  successfully  completed,  and  brought  into  good  running 
shape.  Mr.  Xathaniel  B.  Beal  is  the  President  and  Superin- 
tendent of  the  road,  and  has  proved  an  efficient  manager. 
TViis  narrow-gauge  railroad  has  proved  a  complete  success, 
and  Mr.  Mansfield  has  since  built  another  between  Hiram  on 
the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  and  Bridgton,  the 
distance  being  about  twentv  miles.  These  narrow-gauge 
roads  furnish  abundant  means  of  transportation  for  thinly 
settled  localities,  and  there  is  no  doubt  many  more  will  be 
built  in  dift'erent  parts  of  the  State. 

Phillips  is  a  well-to-do  farming  town,  situated  in  the  midst 
of  some  fine  scenery.  It  has  post,  telegraph,  and  express 
offices,  about  a  dozen  stores,  two  or  three  churches,  three  ho- 
tels, and  several  private  boarding-houses.  The  Barden  House, 
Samuel  Farmer,  proprietor,  the  Elmwood  Hotel,  Theo.  L. 
Page,  proprietor,  and  The  Willows,  M.  H.  Keniston,  proprie- 
tor, are  all  good  hotels,  and  are  located  but  a  short  distance 
from  the  railroad  depot,  and  offer  the  necessary  accommoda- 
tions to  tourists  and  sportsmen. 

Persons  having  leisure  to  spend  a  few  days  or  weeks  in 
Phillips  will  find  many  i^laces  of  interest  to  attract  their 
attention. 

The  Mammoth  Rock  is  one  of  the  curiosities  of  Phillips. 
It  is  situated  on  Daggett's  Farm,  about  three  and  a  half  miles 
from  the  Barden  House.      The  drive  there  is  very  pleasant, 


li)4  FAiniAirS   ILLUJSTliATED  GLIDE  TO  j 

and  from  the  top  of  the  hill,  wlicre  you  climb  to  see  the  rock, 
you  Avill  get  some  charmino;  views  of  mountain  and  valley. 
'I'liis  rock  stands  in  a  i)asture,  about  one-eighth  of  a  mile  from 
tlie  road,  on  the  side  of  a  hill.  You  can  drive  a  team  close 
uj)  to  the  rock.  This  immense  boulder  has  a  s^^lit  entirely 
through  it,  some  thirty  feet  wide  at  the  top  and  two  feet  wide 
at  the  boottom.  The  largest  half,  which  is  the  lower  side, 
has  also  been  split,  and  there  is  a  gap  in  it,  about  fifteen  feet 
wide  at  the  top  and  a  foot  at  the  bottom.  A  rude  ladder, 
planted  against  the  side,  enables  one  to  reach  the  top.  One 
sunniier  a  fello^^^  who  went  on  top  of  the  rock,  undertook  to 
jump  across  the  fifteen-foot  space.  He  just  managed  to 
grasp  the  edge  of  the  rock  with  his  hands,  and,  after  a  severe 
struggle  he  reached  the  top.  If  his  hold  had  given  way  he 
would  have  been  carried  home  in  a  coflin.  Liquor  was  the 
cause  of  this  foolish  and  dangerous  act.  It  is  variously  esti- 
mated that  the  rock  is  from  thirty-five  to  fifty  feet  high,  one 
luindred  feet  through,  and  tv.o  to  three  hundred  feet  around 
the  base.  How  it  came  there  is  a  mysterj^ ;  but  every  person 
has  his  own  theory  in  the  matter,  and  some  are  quite  amus- 
ing.    We  i^ublish  a  stereoscopic  view  of  this  rock. 

Sandy  Eiver  Falls,  in  the  town  of  Madrid,  are  well  worth  a 
visit.  They  are  about  eight  miles  from  Phillips  Village,  and, 
as  there  is  o'ood  fishing  on  the  stream  above  and  below  the 
falls,  it  will  pay  you  to  take  a  fishing-rod  when  you  go  to 
visit  them.  On  your  way  to  and  from  the  falls  you  will  get 
some  splendid  views  of  the  Mount  Abram  and  Saddleback 
ranges.  This  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  rides  in  the  vicinitv 
of  Phillips,  and  the  excursion  will  take  a  day.  There  are  two 
streams,  only  a  few  rods  apart,  and  each  has  a  fine  fall.  An 
amusing;  incident  in  connection  with  this  stream  is  told  of  a 
gentleman  from  Providence.  He  was  fishing  the  Sandy  Eiver 
down  one  day,  expecting  to  reach  Madrid  in  time  to  stop  over 
night;  but  darkness  overtook  him  while  he  was  fishing  from 
a  large  rock  in  tlie  middle  of  tlie  stream,  and  at  this  place  he 
was  surrounded  ])y  woods.  Being  afraid  of  losing  his  way, 
or  being  attacked  by  wild  beasts  in  the  woods,  he  spent  the 
night  on  the  rock,  a  prey  to  mosquitoes,  black  flies,  and  a 


O 

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.tr" 

t-l 

{>► 


19(3  FAlJlLVirS  ILLl  sriLVTED   GUIDE  TO 


disordered  mind,  his  imag'inatioii  pieturiiiii;  a  «^reat  many  hor- 
rors tliat  the  morning  liglit  dispell(;d.  He  scarcely  slept  a 
\vink  all  niii'ht,  but  when  he  reached  the  village  the  next  day 
he  had  a  "ood  hearty  laugh  over  his  nocturnal  ad^■euture. 

^yv  ])ul)lish  a  stereoscopic  view  of  the  falls  on  each  stream, 

A  tine  excursion,  occupying  a  day,  may  be  made  from  the 
hotels  to  Mount  Blue.  Taking  a  team  you  ride  to  within  a 
mile  of  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  then  Ma  Ik  up  hy  a  good 
path  through  the  woods.  The  view  from  this  mountain  is 
very  extensive,  embracing  the  whole  country  from  Phillips 
to  the  ocean,  and  a  trip  to  its  summit  Mill  well  repay  the  tou- 
rist for  the  time  and  expense  of  making  it.  There  is  a  hotel 
at  the  base  of  the  mountain  Mhere  you  can  get  dinner,  and 
M'here  you  can  have  your  team  provided  for  also.  We  pub- 
lish several  stereoscopic  vieMS  of  Mount  Blue. 

There  is  a  sulphur  spring  a  short  distance  from  the  hotels, 
Mhose  M-aters  are  taken  by  many  people  for  a  cure  for  rheu- 
matism. The  Mater  contains  both  lime  and  sulphur,  has 
many  medicinal  properties  and  is  extremelj^  disagreeable  to 
the  taste. 

The  brook-trouting  in  the  vicinity  of  Phillips  is  very  good, 
and  all  necessary  information  in  regard  to  the  streams  and 
ponds  may  be  obtained  from  the  proprietors  of  the  hotels. 

In  the  morning  one  of  H.  T.  KimbalTs  mountain  M^agons 
leaves  Phillips  at  half-past  seven  for  Greenvale,  eighteen 
miles  distant.  Fare,  81.50.  Parties  Mho  M'ish  to  go  in  a  pri- 
vate team  can  procure  one  from  the  hotels  or  the  stage  pro- 
prietor at  a  reasonable  price. 

The  road  folloM'S  the  Sandy  Eiver  Valley  the  most  of  the 
M'ay,  and  six  miles  from  Phillips  Me  pass  through  the  little 
village  of  ^Eadrid,  crossing  the  river  at  this  point.  A  fcM' 
miles  beyond,  the  road  crosses  a  high  range  of  land  knoMii  as 
Beech  Hill,  Miiich  is  one  of  the  spurs  of  Mount  Saddleback, 
and  is  about  tMclve  hundred  feet  above  Phillips.  From  the 
top  of  this  hill  a  magnificent  vicM^  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try may  be  obtained,  including  the  Sandy  lliver  Valley  and 
Ponds,  and  numerous  mountain  peaks  and  ranges. 

Descending  the  hill  tOM^rds  Greenvale,  a  short  ride  brings 


THE  AXDROSCOGGI^^  LAKES. 


197 


YOU  to  the  Sandy  Eiver  Pond?,  all  lyiuo;  near  each  other,  on 
the  right  side  of  the  road.  Parsing  these  you  come  to  Long 
Pond,  the  source  of  the  Androscoggin.  It  is  only  a  stone's 
tln•o^y  between  Long  Pond  and  Sandy  Eiyer  Ponds,  and  thus 
the  Androscoggin  and  Kennebec  Riyers  come  within  an  ace  of 
being  connected.  In  all  of  these  i^onds  and  streams  along  the 
road  the  trout-fishing  is  excellent,  and  one  can  stop  if  going 
by  priyate  conyeyance,  and  catch  a  string  of  fish  to  take 
along  with  him. 

Long  Pond,  the  source  of  the  Androscoggin,  is  a  yery 
pretty  sheet  of  water,  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  Ayoods, 
and  furnishes  excellent  trout-fishing.  An  arm  of  it  extends 
to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  stage-road,  and  it  is  only  about 
two  miles  from  Greenyale.  If  one  wishes  to  make  a  business 
of  fishing  there,  he  will  be  obliged  to  take  a  boat  with  him, 
as  there  are  none  on  the  i)oud.  We  publish  a  fine  stereo- 
sco^jic  yiew  of  this  pond. 

Continuing  on,  we  reach  Greenyale,  at  the  head  of  Oquos- 
soc  Lake,  after  a  ride  of  four  hours,  and  parties  who  wish  to 
take  the  steamer  here  are  left  at  the  hotel,  and  then  the  stage 
goes  on  to  Eangeley  Village,  three  miles  farther,  and  will 
leave  you  at  either  of  the  hotels. 


^mB^ 


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a 

o 

V— t 


a 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

'I[ram  ^tm  Y^rlv  nnh  ^o$tun  in  |)injixlt  ^nitl^ 

!inS  EOUTE  to  Dixvilie  Nocch  and 
the  Androscoggin  Lakes  takes  tour- 
ists through  the  heart  of  Xew  Eng- 
land, and  introduces  them  to  some  of 
the  finest  scenery  in  New  Hampsliire. 
Several  difierent  forms  of  Round  Trip 
Tickets  are  sold  over  this  popular  route,  both  from  Boston 
and  New  York,  and  are  fully  described  in  Chapter  XXIV. 
Between  New  York  and  Concord  there  are  five  routes,  all 
occupying  about  the  same  time. 

I.  The  steamers,  "Massachusetts"  and  "Rhode  Island,"  of 
the  Providence  Line,  leave  Pier  29,  North  River,  at  5.00  P. 
M.,  arriving  in  Providence  the  following  morning  at  6.00 
o'clock,  connecting  with  the  AYhite  Mountain  Express  over 
the  Providence  and  "Worcester  Railroad  r«'a  Worcester,  Nash- 
ua, and  Manchester,  arriving  at  Concord  in  time  to  connect 
with  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad.  Parlor  cars  accompany 
this  train.    Breakfast  at  Providence  or  "Worcester. 

n.  The  steamers  "Stonington"  and  "Narragansett"  of  the 
Stonington  Line  leave  Pier  36,  North  River,  at  5.00.,  P.  M.  arriv- 
ing at  Stoningtou  at  2.00  A.  M.,  connecting  with  train  arriving 
at  Providence  at  5.00  o'clock,  making  connections  with  trains 
over  Providence  and  "Worcester  Railroad  as  above.  Break- 
fast at  Providence  or  Worcester.  Or  passengers  may  go  di- 
rect from  Providence  to  Boston,  reaching  the  latter  city  at 
6.00  A.  M.,  by  Stonington  Line,  and  7.00  A.  M.,  by  the 
Providence  Line  in  ample  season  to  connect  with  the  through 
trains  over  the   Boston   and   Maine  and    the    Boston    and 

Lowell  Railroads.    Breakfast  in  Boston. 

199 


200  F.UIRAIIS  ILLUSTRATED  GLTDE   TO 


III.  The  steamers  ''Old  Colonj-,"  "Bristol,"  "Providence," 
and  "Pilgrim"  of  the  Fall  Ptiver  Line,  leave  Pier  28,  North 
Ptiver,  at  5.30  and  6.15  P.  M.,  arriving  at  Fall  Eiver  at  5.00 
A.  M.,  connecting  with  the  trains  on  the  Old  Colony  Railroad, 
reaching  Boston  at  7.00  o'clock,  in  time  to  connect  with 
Northern  trains  over  the  Boston  and  Maine  and  Boston  and 
Lowell  Railroads.    Breakfast  in  Boston. 

Passengers  who  wish  to  proceed  to  the  "White  Mountains  di- 
rect, and  without  change  of  cars,  will  take  an  express  train  at 
Fall  River  (elegant  parlor  cars  attached),  and  proceed  over 
the  Northern  Division  of  the  Old  Colony  Railroad  via  Taun- 
ton, Mansfield,  Framingham,  Lowell,  Nashua,  Manchester, 
and  Concord ;  thence  northward  by  early  White  Mountains 
and  Montreal  express. 

rv^.  The  steamers  "City  of  Boston,"  "City  of  Lawrence," 
"City  of  New  York,"  and  "City  of  Worcester,"  leave  Pier 
40,  North  River,  at  5.00  P.  M.,  arriving  at  New  London  in 
season  to  connect  with  the  4.00  A.  M.  train  on  the  New  York 
and  New  England  Railroad,  arriving  in  Boston  (breakfast) 
in  season  to  connect  with  through  trains  over  the  Boston  and 
Maine  and  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroads.  Or  you  may  take 
the  4.00  A.  M.  train  at  New  London  and  go  directly  to  Con- 
cord, via  Worcester,  (breakfast)  Ayer  Junction,  Nashua 
and  Manchester,  arriving  at  Concord  in  time  to  connect  Avith 
the  ^ATiite  Mountain  Express  over  the  Boston  and  Lowell 
Railroad.  A  parlor  car  accompanies  the  4.00  A.  M.  train 
from  New  London  via  Worcester. 

V.  The  Shore  Line  Express  between  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton leaves  New  York  from  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  42d 
street  daily,  at  1.00  P.  M.  arriving  in  Boston,  at  7  A.  M.,  in  time 
for  breakfast  and  connection  with  Northern  trains  over 
Boston  and  Maine,  and  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroads.  Sleep- 
ing cars  accompany  this  train.  Passengers  who  wish  can  also 
leave  this  train  at  Providence,  and  take  cars  therefor  Concord 
as  mentioned  above. 

Passengers  leave  Boston  from  the  Boston  and  Maine  Rail- 
road Station,  Causeway  street,  at  9.30  A.M.,  by  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroad,  Lowell  system,  for  Nashua,  and  Concord 


1 


TIIE  ^IXDROSCOGGIX  LAKES.  201 

and  INfonireal  Railroad  to  White  ^Mountain  points,  via  Man- 
chester, Concord,  and  Plymouth.  Parlor  cars  accompany 
this  train. 

A  second  train  leaves  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  Sta- 
tion, Causeway  street,  at  1.15  P.M.  Parlor  cars  are  also 
attached  to  this  train. 

The  third  train  leaves  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  Sta- 
tion, Causewa}'^  street,  at  5.00  P.M.,  running  via  Nashua, 
Manchester,  and  Concord,  to  Plymouth,  N.Ii.  Passengers 
stop  here  over  night  and  continue  their  journc}*  the  next 
morning. 

Tickets,  seats  in  parlor  cars,  pamphlets,  time  tables,  and  all 
necessary  information  can  be  procured  at  the  New  England 
Passen2:er  Ao^encv  of  the  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad, 
207  Washington  street  (Rogers  Building),  Boston,  Mass. 

The  Merrimack  Valley  Route  via  the  Concord  and  Mon- 
treal Railroad  has  long  been  known  as  one  of  the  most  pop- 
ular routes  to  all  White  ^lountain  points,  offering  to  the 
traveller  and  tourist  a  charming  variety  of  scenery  that  can 
be  excelled  nowhere  in  New  Ensfland,  and  the  train  service 
over  this  great  line,  witli  the  improvements  made  this  year, 
has  reached  the  acme  of  perfection. 

One  of  the  most  pleasant  features  of  the  Boston  and  Low- 
ell Route  is  the  large  number  of  streams  and  bodies  of  water 
along  its  way,  among  which  are  the  Charles  and  Mystic  Riv- 
ers ;  the  Merrimack,  in  close  continuity  for  many  miles,  and 
in  whose  praise  our  Quaker  poet,  '\Miittier,  has  sung  some  of 
his  sweetest  songs ;  the  Suncook  and  Winnepesaukee  Rivers ; 
Lake  Winuesquam,  Little  Bay,  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  Wauk- 
awanLake,  Long  Pond,  Pemigewasset  and  Baker's  Rivers ;  the 
beautiful  Connecticut,  the  boundary  line  between  New  HamiD- 
shire'3  granite  hills  and  the  green  j^eaks  of  Vermont;  Wells 
and  Ammonoosuc  Rivers ;  and  several  other  smaller  streams 
and  ponds. 

At  Lawrence  or  Lowell  we  strike  the  Merrimack,  following 
it  beyond  Manchester  and  Concord,  crossing  it  several  times. 
Its  waters  are  broken  by  turbulent  rapids  and  picturesque 
falls,  materially  adding  to  its  beauty  as  well  as  furnishing 


1 


202  FAERARS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 

a  large  amount  of  improved  water-power.  Among  the  heavi- 
est and  most  striking  of  the  falls  are  those  of  Lawrence, 
Lowell,  Amoskeag,  and  Hooksett. 

Lowell,  Lawrence,  Nashua,  Manchester,  and  Hooksett,  are 
all  smart  manufacturing  places,  prettily  located,  and  having 
good  railroad  communications  with  all  parts  of  New  England. 

Concord  is  the  capital  city  of  New  Hampshire,  and  contains 
about  13,000  inhabitants.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and  contains 
several  fine  public  buildings,  and  a  number  of  hotels,  of 
M  hich  the  Eagle  and  the  Phoenix  are  the  best.  It  has  large 
granite  quarries,  furnishing  an  important  industry,  and 
makes  a  specialty  of  carriage  manufacturing.  The  popular 
stages  known  as  Concord  coaches  first  saw  the  light  of  day 
in  this  enterprising  city.  Concord  is  also  quite  an  important 
railroad  centre,  some  half-dozen  railroads  coming  together 
at  this  point. 

The  AMiite  Mountain  Express,  over  the  Boston,  Concord, 
and  Montreal  Railroad,  is  made  up  of  its  own  cars  and  those 
of  the  different  roads  from  Boston,  Providence,  Fall  River, 
New  London,  and  Worcester,  and  leaves  Concord  at  1.42  A. 
M.    With  this  we  start. 

A  short  distance  from  Concord,  the  train  crosses  the  Merri- 
mack River  for  the  last  time  and  in  this  vicinity  we  obtain 
a  fine  view  of  Mount  Kearsarge,  about  a  dozen  miles 
distant.  Soon  after  leaving  Concord  the  road  bears  away 
toward  Lake  Winnepesaukee.  The  first  place  of  any  import- 
ance reached  is  Tilton,  the  seat  of  the  Methodist  Seminary. 
The  town  possesses  an  excellent  water-power,  and  some 
manufacturing  is  done  here.  The  river  which  runs  through 
the  place  is  the  outlet  of  Winnepesaukee  Lake.  Tilton,  and 
other  neighboring  towns  are  fast  acquiring  a  notoriety  as 
pleasant  summer  resorts. 

Soon  after  leaving  Tilton,  we  pass  Lake  Winnesquam, 
the  road  skirting  its  eastern  shore.  It  is  a  lovely  sheet  of 
water  and  is  seen  to  the  left  from  the  cars.  The  next  station 
is  East  Tilton,  and  passing  this  we  reach  Laconia,  a  lively  and 
enterprising  town  twenty-seven  miles  from  Concord.  The 
Belknap  Mills,  and  the    extensive  works  of  the  Ranlet  Car 


TIIE  ANDROSCOGGIX  LMvES.  203 

Company,  are  located  here.  There  is  a  stage  line  between 
this  place  and  Alton  Bay. 

Lake  Village,  an  important  manufacturing  place,  is  the 
next  station  reached.  The  construction  and  repair  shops  of  the 
Boston  and  Lowell  Eailroad,  as  well  as  many  other  manufac- 
tories and  mills,  form  a  part  of  the  business  of  this  little  village 
and  give  employment  to  a  large  number  of  people.  The  princi- 
pal hotel,  the  Mount  Belknap  House,  is  situated  near  the  rail- 
road station.  Mount  Belknap,  from  whose  barren  summit  a 
line  landscape  view  may  be  had,  is  easily  accessible  over 
a  good  road,  and  is  but  a  few  miles  from  the  village. 

From  Lake  Village  the  railroad  follows  the  western  shore 
of  Long  Bay,  seen  to  the  right,  a  part  of  Lake  Winnepe- 
saukee.  At  Weirs  we  stop  to  enable  passengers  to  take  the 
steamer  "Lady  of  the  Lake,-' which  runs  from  this  point  to 
Centre  Harbor  and  Wolfboro'.  At  this  station  also  are 
the  camp-grounds  of  the  New  England  Methodists,  and  the 
New  Hampshire  Veteran  Association,  charmingly  laid  out, 
and  containing  many  handsome  cottages,  scattered  through- 
out the  beautiful  grove  on  the  border  of  the  lake.  The 
Hotel  Weirs,  the  Lakeside  House,  and  the  Winnecoette  House 
offer  homes  to  those  who  wish  to  spend  a  few  days  in  this 
vicinity,  presenting  many  attractions  to  tourists. 

From  Weirs'  Landing  the  road  follows  the  shore  of  the 
lake,  introducing  many  fine  pictures,  pleasant  to  the  eye 
of  the  traveler.  The  next  stop  is  at  Meredith,  a  small  man- 
ufacturing town,  and  a  favorite  resort  in  summer.  Passing 
this  station  we  bid  adieu  to  Winnepesaukee,  and  soon  reach 
Waukawan  Lake,  following  the  south  shore  for  four  miles. 
Long  Pond,  on  the  right,  is  the  next  body  of  w\ater  passed, 
and  the  cars  glide  swiftly  around  the  base  of  Ragged  Mount- 
ain, whose  rocky  sides  have  been  leveled  by  blasting  to  allow 
the  passage  of  trains.  The  mountain  is  on  the  left  of  the 
road.  Near  here  the  Pemigewasset  and  Squam  Elvers  unite, 
furnishing  many  artistic  bits  of  landscape.  The  latter  river 
rises  in  one  of  the  Squam  Lakes,  of  w^hich  there  are 
three,  three  miles  above.  The  lakes  furnish  good  fishing, 
and  there  are  numerous  trout  brooks  in  their  vicinity. 


204  FMIlLVPt"S  ILLUSTI^.VrED  GUIDE  TO 

The  Asquam  House  offers  entertainment  to  those  wishing 
to  visit  these  pretty  sheets  of  water. 

Ashland,  the  next  station  on  the  raih-oad,  was  formerly- 
known  as  Ilolderness.  It  has  some  imi)ortance  as  a  manu- 
facturing town.  Above  Ashland  we  enter  the  lovely  valley 
of  the  Pemigewasset,  following  it  to  Plymouth. 

The  approach  to  Plymouth  is  striking  and  beautiful.  The 
course  of  the  road  is  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  flows, 
with  many  a  crook  and  turn,  through  green  meadows,  shad- 
ed in  many  places  by  graceful  and  Avide-spread  elms. 

On  either  side  high-wooded  hills  sweep  by  a  gentle  grade 
down  to  the  valley  below ;  thirty  miles  away  the  Franconia 
Mountains  tower  towards  the  sky,  effectually  closing  the  view 
in  that  direction.  As  the  train  rapidly  enters  the  town,  the 
Pemigewasset  House  rises  before  you,  a  large  and  well  con- 
structed hotel,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Pem- 
igewassett,  near  its  confluence  with  Baker's  Piver,  and  in 
close  proximity  to  the  buisness  part  of  the  town.  The  rail- 
road station  is  in  the  hotel  building,  and  you  are  consequent- 
ly landed  at  the  very  door  of  this  hospitable  home  for  the 
traveler.  A  short  flight  of  broad  stairs  leads  to  the  office  and 
dining-room  above,  and  here  you  are  furnished  with  a  good 
dinner,  and  allowed  ample  time  to  eat  it  in  comfort. 

Plymouth  is  a  popular  summer  resort,  and  annually  enter- 
tains thousands  of  visitors,  many  of  whom  find  a  home  dur- 
ing the  season  at  the  Pemigewasset  House,  one  of  the  best 
conducted  hotels  in  New  England.  Mr.  P.  E.  Wheeler,  the 
well-known  manager,  has  been  connected  with  the  house  for 
a  number  of  vears.  During  the  summer  season  music  is 
furnished  by  a  quardrille  band. 

Among  the  pleasant  drives  and  places  of  interest  in  the 
vicinity  of  Plymouth  are  Smith's  Bridge,  six  miles ;  Liver- 
more  Falls,  two  miles ;  Plymouth  Mountain,  ten  miles ;  Loon 
Pond,  five  miles ;  Squam  Lakes,  six  miles ;  Mount  Prosi)ect, 
four  miles;  Centre  Harbor,  twelve  miles.  Mount  Prospect, 
has  an  elevation  of  over  2,900  feet,  and  a  carriage-road  reach- 
es nearly  to  its  summit.  The  view  from  the  top  will  well  re- 
pay the  trouble  of  a  visit. 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  205 

The  route  from  Plymouth  to  the  Franconia  Mountains  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  whole  White  Mountain  district.  The 
"Pemigewasset  Valley  Pailroad"  follows  closely  the  banks  of 
the  river  through  the  towns  of  Campton,  Thornton,  and  Wood- 
stock. The  distance  to  the  Flume  House  is  six  miles,  and  to 
the  Profile  House  ten  and  one  half  miles  above  the  terminus 
of  the  railroad  in  North  Woodstock.  This  ride  makes  a  very 
interesting  side  trip  to  those  who  can  spare  the  time  for  it. 

Leaving  Plymouth  after  dinner,  the  train  for  twenty  miles 
follows  the  valley  of  Baker's  Eiver,  passing  Quincy's  Station, 
Eumney,  West  Eumney,  and  Wentworth,  reaching  Warren, 
eighteen  miles  above  Plymouth,  a  beautiful  and  picturesque 
town,  situated  in  a  romantic  and  mountainous  region. 
Moosilauke  Mountain,  4,800  feet  in  height,  in  the  neighboring 
town  of  Benton,  is  five  miles  from  the  station.  A  good  car- 
riage-road leads  to  the  summit,  and  stages  run  between  the 
railroad  and  the  mountain.  A  fine  view  of  Moosilauke  may 
be  obtained  from  the  right  of  the  train  while  going  north- 
ward, and  Mounts  Car,  Waternomee,  and  Kineo  are  visible 
from  the  same  side.  Mounts  Mist  and  Webster's  Slide  can 
be  seen  to  the  left.  A  few  miles  above  Warren  is  a  high, 
barren  cliff  called  Owl's  Head,  lying  oft' to  the  right. 

From  Warren  the  road  runs  through  some  of  the  finest 
scenery  in  the  Granite  State,  anci  swings  toward  the  Connec- 
ticut River,  as  we  approach  the  town  of  Haverhill.  The  next 
station  above  is  Woodsville,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Connecticut  in  Vermont,  Wells  Eiver,  where  connections 
are  made  with  the  Passumpsic  Railroad  for  Xewport,  Lake 
Memphremagog,  and  Montreal,  and  the  Montpelier  and  Wells 
River  Railroad  for  Montpelier,  Burlington,  and  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  All  trains,  except  the  Through  Fast  Express,  cross 
and  recross  the  Connecticut  between  Woodsville  and  Wells 
liivcr. 

The  next  stations  above  are  Bath,  Lisbon,  and  North  Lisbon, 
pleasant  and  attractive  villages,  lying  along  the  Ammonoosuc 
River;  and,  leaving  them  without  especial  remark,  the  train 
soon  stops  at  Littleton,  the  largest  and  most  populous  village 
in  this  section  of  the  State.    The  scenery  at  Littleton  is  most 


20G  F^VER^Vr."S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

enjoyable,  and  from  the  upper  part  of  the  town  an  excellent 
view  of  the  "White  and  Franconia  Mountains  may  be  obtained. 
There  are  many  hotels  and  boarding-houses  in  Littleton, 
Thayer's  Hotel  and  the  Oak  Hill  House  being  the  most  popu- 
lar known. 

Seven  miles  beyond  Littleton,  we  reach  Wing  Eoad,  and 
from  this  point  a  fine  view  of  Mount  Lafayette  and  the  Twin 
Mountains  may  be  had.  From  here  the  Mount  Washington 
Branch  of  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad  curves  to  the 
right  from  the  main  line,  and  continues  past  Bethlehem 
Junction,  Twin  Mountain  House,  White  Mountain  House,  and 
Fabyan's,  to  the  base  of  Mount  Washington,  connecting  there 
with  the  Mount  Washington  Railway  for  the  summit. 

At  Fabyan's  connection  is  made  with  the  Portland  and 
Ogdensburg  Railroad  for  the  Mount  Pleasant  House,  Craw- 
ford House,  Crawford  Notch,  North  Conway,  Sebago  Lake, 
and  Portland. 

Whitefield,  the  next  stopping-place  on  the  main  line,  is  an 
important  lumbering  town,  the  head  quarters  of  the  Brown 
Lumber  Company,  whose  extensive  mills  may  be  seen  near 
the  station.  A  short  branch,  the  TMiitefield  and  Jefferson 
Railroad,  runs  f rom  ^Yhitefield  to  Jefferson,  ten  miles  distant. 
The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  IVhitefield  is  very  fine,  and  it  is 
something  of  a  summer  resort. 

Between  Whitefield  andDalton,  the  Vermont  Division  of  the 
Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad  leaves  the  main  line  and  runs  to 
Maquan  Bay,  and  thence  to  Ogdensburg.  St.  Johnsbury,  Vt., 
where  the  Passumpsic  River  Railroad  is  crossed,  and  other 
places  of  lesser  note  are  situated  along  this  line.  At  Cam- 
bridge Junction  connection  is  made  with  the  Burlington  and 
Lamoille  Railroad  for  Essex  and  Burlington,  and  at  Swanton, 
connection  is  made  with  the  Central  Vermont  Railroad  for 
Montreal  and  other  places  in  Canada. 

Dalton,  South  Lancaster,  and  Lancaster,  are  the  next  three 
stations  on  the  line,  the  latter  quite  a  thriving  and  busy  place, 
and  one  of  the  prettiest  villages  in  New  Hampshire.  A  stage 
route  connects  this  place  with  Jefferson,  eight  miles  distant. 
Lancaster  has  a  large  number  of  visitors  each  season,  it  hav- 


FAERAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO  200 

ing  been  a  popular  summer  resort  for  a  number  of  years. 

It  is  the  shire  town  of  Coos  county,  and  is  a  busj'-  place  at 
any  time.  Coos  is  an  Indian  name  signifying  crooked,  and 
was  originally  applied  to  that  part  of  the  Connecticut  River 
upon  which  Lancaster  and  the  tov/ns  north  of  it  are  situated. 
Israel's  Riyer  passes  through,  and  the  Connecticut  near,  the 
town.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  very  fine,  and  the  roads 
excellent.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Lunenburg,  Vt. 
The  view  from  Lunenburg  Hills  is  one  of  the  best  to  be  ob- 
tained in  this  section. 

The  express  arrives  at  Lancaster  at  4.40  P.  M.,  and  runs  no 
farther.  From  this  point  we  continue  our  journey  on  the 
mail  train,  which  does  not  leave  until  6.15,  giving  us  a  little 
rest,  and  ample  time  for  supper.  If  you  neglect  to  get  sup- 
per here,  you  do  not  have  another  chance  until  you  reach 
Colebrook  at  eight  o'clock.  From  Lancaster  a  short  run 
brings  us  to  Guildhall,  a  farming  and  lumbering  town  pleas- 
antly situated  near  the  Connecticut  River. 

The  next  station  is  Groveton  Junction  from  where  you  ob- 
tain a  fine  view  of  the  mountains.  This  is  the  present  termi- 
nus of  the  road,  and  hei'e  connection  is  made  with  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway. 

The  village  of  Groveton  is  half  a  mile  below,  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  is  spoken  of  more  particularly  in 
Chapter  XVI. 

The  Boston  and  Lowell  Raih'oad  Company  have  a  charter 
to  build  their  road  to  North  Stratford,  X.IL,  and  we  suppose 
that  some  time  in  the  future  this  extension  will  be  made. 

At  7.15  P.  M.  we  leave  Groveton  Junction,  on  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway,  and  passing  rapidly  along,  soon  reach  Strat- 
ford Hollow.  A  moment's  stop  here,  and  also  at  Beattie's,  a 
few  miles  distant,  and  we  draw  up  at  North  Stratford,  twelve 
miles  from  Groveton  Junction,  arriving  at  7.45  p.  M.  Here 
we  change  cars  and  take  those  of  the  Upper  Coos  Railroad. 
The  Percy  House  and  the  Willard  House,  both  near  the  de^DOt, 
stand  hospitably  open  to  those  who  wish  to  procure  supper, 
or  to  stop  over  a  few  days,  as  some  do,  and  go  on  to  Cole- 
brook  later. 


■ilO  THE  AXDEOSCOGGIX  LAKES. 


North  Stratford,  two  hundred  and  thirty-one  miles  from 
Boston,  via  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Connecticut 
River,  which  at  this  place  is  an  attractive  stream,  white  with 
rapids  and  falls.  The  town  has  important  lumbering  in- 
terests, and  a  large  amount  of  business  is  done  here.  The 
place  contains  two  churches,  a  number  of  stores,  two  hotels, 
nnd  several  mills.  It  was  at  North  Stratford  that  Paul 
Boyton,  the  celebrated  swimmer,  took  to  the  Avater,  when  he 
floated  down  the  Connecticut. 

On  the  Vermont  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River,  a  short 
distance  from  North  Stratford,  are  the  Brunswick  Springs. 
A  new  hotel  has  been  recently  erected  here,  and  offers  supe- 
rior accommodations  to  those  seeking  rest  or  pleasure.  The 
scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  this  house  is  charming,  and  many 
beautiful  drives  and  inviting  walks  are  to  be  found  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Maidstone  Lake,  in  Vermont,  only  seven  miles  from  the 
village  of  North  Stratford,  offers  splendid  lunge  fishing. 
Camp  Willard  has  a  sightly  elevation  on  the  shore  of  the 
Lake,  and  offers  good  accommodations  to  tourists  and  sports- 
men. The  proprietor  has  boats  to  let  and  will  try  and  make  it 
pleasant  for  those  wiio  give  him  a  call. 

The  Upper  Coos  Railroad  leaves  the  Grand  Trunk  at  North 
Stratford,  and  runs  through  Columbia,  Colebrook,  and  Stew- 
artstown,  N.  H.,  and  Canaan  and  Hereford,  Vt.,  to  the  Can- 
ada line.  Its  trains  connect  with  all  trains  on  the  Grand 
Trunk  in  either  direction.  The  route  lies  along  the  right 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  River  all  the  way;  never  far  from 
it,  and  sometimes  so  near  that  one  could  jump  from  the  ears 
into  the  hurrving  stream  with  ease.  Five  miles  above  North 
Stratford  we  pass  through  Columbia,  a  farming  town  of  no 
special  importance.  The  scenery  along  the  road  is  attractive, 
and  there  are  mountains  in  sight  all  the  time.  The  train 
reaches  Colebrook,  at  eight  o'clock,  and  we  gladly  leave  it 
for  a  sheltering  roof,  a  good  supper  and  a  comfortable  bed  at 
one  of  the  hotels. 


FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO  211 


Colebrook  is  pleasantlj^  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  River,  with  Mount  Monadnoek  directly  opposite 
in  the  adjoining  State  of  Vermont.  It  is  a  thriving  little  town, 
and  a  good  deal  of  lumbering  and  other  business  is  done  in  it. 
A  daily  mail,  telegraph,  and  railroad  line  connect  it  with 
other  towns  and  cities.  The  buildings  are  neat,  well-con- 
structed, and  kept  in  good  rejDair ;  there  are  two  printing  offices, 
— a  Republican  and  Democratic  newspaper,  both  weekly — and 
a  large  number  of  stores,  representing  every  variety  of  trade. 
There  are  two  churches,  a  public  hall  and  two  hotels.  It 
is  in  the  centre  of  some  fine  drives  over  excellent  roads, 
Xorth  Stratford,  Canaan,  Columbia,  Beaver  Falls,  Dixville 
Notch,  Connecticut  Lake, — a  beautiful  sheet  of  water, — Errol 
Dam,  Diamond  Pond, — a  great  place  for  successful  trout- 
fishing, — being  all  within  easy  driving  distance.  A  very 
pleasant  ride  may  also  be  had  by  driving  down  the  river 
four  miles,  crossing  at  that  point,  and  driving  back  on  the 
Vermont  side,  recrossing  the  river  a  short  distance  from  the 
Parsons  House. 

Among  the  points  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  of  Colebrook 
are  Mount  Monadnock,  Beaver  Falls,  Diamond  Pond,  and 
Dixville  Xotch.  Simm's  Stream,  two  miles  from  the  village, 
and  Mohawk  River  running  directly  through  the  village,  and 
Tallant's  Stream  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  in  Vermont, 
furnish  excellent  trout-fishing.  Diamond  Pond  is  ten  miles 
from  Colebrook.  It  is  well  stocked  with  trout,  and  offers 
good  flj'-fishing.  The  hotels  will  furnish  guides  for  $1.50  to 
$2.00  per  day,  who  are  well  acquainted  with  all  the  trout- 
streams  in  the  vicinity  of  Colebrook. 

There  is  a  new  and  well-furnished  camp  at  the  Diamond 
Ponds,  that  offers  suitable  accommodations  for  small  parties 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen.  You  can  drive  the  entire  distance 
from  Colebrook  to  the  camp,  there  being  a  good  road  all  the 
way. 

Xearl}'  every  summer  visitor  to  Colebrook  makes  a  point  of 
ascending  Mount  Monadnock.  From  the  village  to  the  sum- 
mit  is  about  three  miles.  Leaving  the  main  street  a  short 
walk  brings  you  to  the  river,    spanned  hy  a  covered  bridge. 


212  FAEPtAR'S  ILLUSTllATED  GUIDE    TO 


Crossing  this  you  strike  across  the  field  d.irectl}^  opposite,  and 
at  the  edge  of  the  woods  you  will  find  an  old  logging  road. 
You  follow  this  as  far  as  it  goes,  and  then  continue  by  a  path 
that  has  been  bushed  out  to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  The 
road,  although  tiresome  is  neither  difficult  nor  dangerous. 
The  best  lookout  is  obtained  from  a  barren  ledge  near  the 
summit.  The  view  from  this  peak  is  picturesque,  wild,  and 
extensive,  and  will  well  repay  one  for  the  time  spent  in  the 
trip. 

At  7.00  A.  M.  you  leave  Colebrook  for  Dixville  Notch,  ten 
miles  distant,  and  Errol  Dam,  twenty-one  miles,  on  Davis' 
stage.  The  road  is  first-rate  the  entire  distance,  the  part 
through  the  Notch  being  kept  in  repair  at  the  expense  of  the 
State.  If  you  wish  to  connect  with  the  morning  boat,  and 
make  the  trip  up  the  Magalloway  Eiver,  you  make  no  stop  at 
Dixville  Xotch,  but  go  directly  to  Errol  Dam,  where  connec- 
tion is  made  with  the  new  steamer  "Parmachenee"  for  all  points 
on  Lake  Umbagog.  The  steamer  arrives  from  Cambridge  and 
Sunday  Cove,  Middle  Dam  Carry,  at  10.30,  and  leaves  the 
Dam  at  11.00  A.  M.,  runs  up  the  Androscoggin  and  Magallo- 
way Ptivcrs,  stops  one  hour  at  Flint's  landing  allowing  time 
for  dinner  at  the  Berlin  Mills  House.  "When  the  water  is  low 
the  steamer  stops  at  the  "Lower  Lauding,"  six  miles  below 
the  hotel  by  river,  and  two  by  road,  and  passengers  are 
met  by  a  team  and  carried  to  the  hotel  by  laud.  The  steam- 
ers run  up  the  Magalloway  River  daily,  except  Sunday. 
Teams  connect  daily  Avith  the  steamer  at  Magalloway  for 
Flint's  Hotel,  and  .Vziscohos  Falls,  connecting  there  with  the 
new  steamer  Magalloway  for  points  on  the  upper  Magalloway 
and  Parniachcnee  Lake.  At  1.00  P.  M.  the  boat  leaves  the 
Berlin  Mills  House,  and  retraces  her  course  to  Errol  Dam. 
On  arrival  of  the  steamer  the  stage  leaves  for  Dixville  Xotch 
and  Colebrook,  reaching  the  latter  place  at  7.00  o'clock.  The 
steamer  leaves  Errol  Dam  at  3.30  P.  M.  for  Sunday  Cove,  Mid- 
dle Dam  Carry,  ten  miles  distant,  where  connection  is  made 
with  teams  for  the  Middle  Dam,  arriving  at  the  Dam  at  6.00  P. 
M.,  and  connecting  next  morning  with  steamers  "Welokenne- 
bacook"  or  "Molechunkamunk,"  on  Lake  "Welokennebacook, 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  213 

for  Upper  Dam  and  Indian  Rock.  At  4.45  P.  M.  the  steamer 
leaves  Sunday  Cove,  arriving  at  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  twelve 
miles  distant,  at  G.15,  where  she  stops  over  night.  There  is  a 
first-chiss  stage  line  between  Cambridge  and  Bethel  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway.     (See  Chapter  III.) 

The  morning  stage  from  Colebrook  reaches  Dixville  Notch 
at  10.30.  If  you  would  see  the  beauties  of  this  celebrated  moun- 
tain j)ass,  the  most  wild  and  romantic  of  any  in  New  England, 
you  leave  the  stage,  and  stop  over  until  the  next  morning. 
In  a  day  you  can  visit  all  the  points  of  interest  in  this  vicin- 
ity. 

The  mail-stage  line  is  owned  by  Mr.  Yolney  Davis,  and  his 
teams  leave  Colebrook  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday 
for  Dixville  Notch  and  Errol  Dam,  at  9.00  A.  M.,  and  re- 
turn every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  from  Errol 
Dam,  at  11.00  A.  M. 

Whether  you  stop  a  day  or  longer  you  will  find  good  accom- 
modations at  the  Dix  House,  pleasantly  located  at  the  west- 
ern entrance  of  the  Notch.  Mr.  George  Parsons  is  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  hotel,  and  will  furnish  guides  for  this  locality 
to  those  who  wish  them. 

Nathan's  Pond,  the  Diamond  Ponds,  Clear  Stream,  and 
several  other  bodies  of  water,  within  easy  walking  distance 
of  the  Notch,  furnish  excellent  trout  fishing  to  the  disciples 
of  Walton. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  interest  in  and  around  the 
Notch  may  be  mentioned  the  Silver  Cascade,  Flume,  Profile, 
Pulpit  Rock,  Columnar  Heights,  Jacob's  Ladder,  Snow  Cave, 
and  Table  Rock.  In  Chapters  XV.  and  XVI.  the  reader  will 
find  a  more  particular  description  of  Dixville  Notch. 


K 
^ 


H 
O 

1— ( 
> 


Em 
O 

O 


CHAPTER  XV. 


\t%im,  urn  |iat{fB{^  ||0^^  Httti  "J^nlt- 

EAVIXG  the  Glen  House,  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Washmgton,  at  7.30  A.  M.,  a  beautiful  stage-ride  of 
eight  miles  brings  you  to  Gorham,  where  you  con- 
nect with  the  mail  train  for  Portland.  The  fare 
from  the  Glen  to  Gorham  is  $1.50. 

Taking  the  cars  you  pass  rapidly  Southward,  fol- 
lowing the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Androscoggin 
through  Slielburne,  Gilead.  and  West  Bethel,  arriving  at 
Bethel  about  ten  o'clock.  Here  you  have  a  wait  of  about 
three  hours,  the  stage  leaving  at  1.00  o'clock.  You  procure 
dinner  at  one  of  the  hotels  and  arrive  at  Lakeside  in  time  for 
supper. 

Or  you  may  leave  the  Glen  House  in  the  afternoon,  connect- 
ing at  Gorham  with  the  afternoon  train  for  Portland,  by 
which  you  arrive  at  Bethel  about  four  o'clock,  remain  over 
night  having  half  a  day  in  Bethel. 

The  most  direct  route  from  Fabyan's,  or  the  Crawford 
House,  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  or  Dixville  Xotch,  is  to 
cross  Mount  Washington  to  the  Glen  House,  and  then  pro- 
ceed as  above.  A  trip  to  the  Mountains  is  not  complete  with- 
out a  run  through  the  Lake  Pegion  of  the  Androscoggin 
which  has  been  declared  by  travelers  from  abroad  more 
picturesque  than  either  the  English,  Scottish  or  Irish  Lakes. 
For  routes  beyond  Cambridge  see  chapters  IV.  and  XVH. 

Dixville  Notch. 

Dixville  Xotch  is,  and  will  always  remain,  one  of  the  won- 
derful attractions  in  Xorthern  Xew  England  for  tourists,  of 

215 


216  FAinJAll'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

whom,  constantly  increasing  numbers  visit  the  place  each 
year. 

The  hotel  is  located  a  few  rods  beyond  the  western  gate- 
way of  the  Notch,  and  furnishes  excellent  accommodations 
at  $2.00  per  day.  The  house  is  kept  by  Mr.  George  Parsons. 
It  has  a  good  livery  stable  connected  with  it  and  contains 
about  fifty  rooms. 

The  Dix  house  was  formally  opened  to  the  travelling  pub- 
lic on  Wednesday,  July  4,  1875.  The  township  in  which  the 
building  is  located  was  formerly  owned  by  the  father  of  Ex- 
Governor  Dix  of  New  York.  At  the  opening  several  dis- 
tinguished gentlemen  were  present  as  guests  of  the  proprie- 
tor, among  them  Ex-Governor  Dix,  in  whose  honor  the  house 
was  named. 

Lovers  of  the  gun  and  rod  will  find  excellent  sport  in  this 
vicinity,  while  the  pleasure-seeker  and  tourist  will  be  delight- 
ed with  the  scenery  bj'-  which  the  house  is  surrounded. 
Raspberries  grow  in  luxurious  profusion  near  the  hotel,  and 
in  their  season  one  can  always  iDrocure  plenty  of  this  deli- 
cious fruit. 

Dixvillo  Notch  is  an  immense  chasm  dividing  the  mountain 
range  down  to  its  foundation,  whose  precipitous  ridges  rival 
in  wildness  and  sublimity  the  White  Mountain  Notch.  The 
serrated  cliffs  of  mica-slate  on  either  hand  shoot  upward,  in 
clean  and  sharply  defined  pinnacles  and  lances,  to  the  height 
of  a  thousand  feet,  reminding  one  of  the  turrets  and  minarets 
of  Saracenic  iDalaces.  Here  and  there  along  its  walls,  on 
some  knotty  spur,  or  in  some  deep  fissure,  cluster  a  few 
spruces  and  white  birches,  forlorn  hopes  of  vegetation,  as  it 
were,  struggling  against  the  sliding  avalanche  and  almost 
invulnerable  sterility;  and  the  bottom  of  the  defile  is  encum- 
bered with  shattered  rocks  and  the  debris  from  the  bristling 
crags  above.  The  locality  is  indeed  a  second  Arabia  Petrse, 
where  solitude  has  an  abiding-place.  A  never-ceasing  gale 
howls  its  mournful  anthems  among  its  sharp  ledges,  and  tor- 
tured fountains  winding  through  secret  glens  send  out  a  gur- 
gle that  seems  ominous  of  evil.  Occasionally  some  huge 
fragment  of  rock,  loosened  from  the  mountain  by  the  frost  or 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  L.UvES.  217 


storm,  comes  tearing  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  abyss,  awak- 
ening solemn  echoes  that  sound  like  the  wail  of  some  lost 
spirit.  Passing  through  the  Notch  from  ErroU  Dam,  the  cel- 
ebrated profile  of  the  "Old  Man''  is  on  the  left  and  Pulpit 
Eock  on  the  right.  From  the  steamboat  landing  at  Errol  Dam 
the  road  lies  over  the  Clear  Stream  meadows,  and  is  level  and 
free  from  stones  the  rest  of  the  distance,  eleven  miles,  to  the 
Notch. 

Of  Dixville  Notch,  the  author  of  Eastman's  White  Moun- 
tain Guide  says : — 

"The  first  vie^v  is  very  impressive;  it  opens  like  a  Titanic 
gateway  to  some  region  of  vast,  mysterious  desolation.  The 
pass  is  much  narrower  than  either  of  those  in  the  White 
Mountains,  and  through  its  whole  extent  of  a  mile  and  a 
quarter  has  more  the  character  of  a  notch.  One  cannot  but 
feel  that  the  mountain  was  rent  apart  by  some  volcanic  con- 
vulsion, and  the  two  sides  left  to  tell  the  story  by  their  cor- 
respondence and  the  naked  dreariness  of  the  pillars  of  rotting 
rock  that  face  each  other.  So  narrow  is  the  ravine  (it  can 
hardly  be  called  a  pass)  that  a  rough  and  precarious  road- 
way for  a  single  carriage  could  only  be  constructed  by  build- 
ing up  against  the  mountain's  side  a  substructure  of  rude 
masonrj^,  while  the  walls  slope  upward  so  sharply  on  either 
hand  that  a  considerable  outlay  is  demanded  of  the  State  ev- 
ery year  to  clear  it  of  the  stones  and  earth  which  the  frosts 
and  rain  roll  intp  it  every  winter  and  spring. 

"No  description  can  impart  an  adequate  conception  of  the 
mournful  grandeur  of  the  decaying  cliffs  of  mica  slate  which 
overhang  the  way.  They  shoot  up  in  mosfc  singular  and  fan- 
tastic shapes,  and  vary  in  height  from  four  hundred  to  eight 
hundred  feet.  A  few  centuries  ago  the  pass  must  have  been 
very  wild ;  but  the  pinnacles  of  rock,  which  gave  the  scen- 
ery such  an  Alpine  character,  are  rapidly  crumbling  away. 
Some  have  decayed  to  half  their  original  height ;  and  the  side 
walls  of  the  Notch  are  strewn  with  debris^  M'hich  the  ice  and 
storms  have  pried  and  gnawed  from  the  decrepit  cliffs.  The 
whole  aspect  is  one  of  ruin  and  wreck.  The  creative  forces 
seem  to  have  retreated  from  the  spot,  and  abandoned  it  to  the 


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THE  AXDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  219 

sport  of  the  destructive  elements.  One  might  entertain  the 
thought  that  some  awful  crime  had  been  committed  there, 
for  which  the  region  was  blasted  by  a  lasting  curse. 

"  One  should  climb  the  highest  i^innacle,  called  Table  Eock, 
which  juts  out  from  the  southerly  wall  of  the  pass,  and  stands 
about  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  road.  It  is  no  easy  task 
to  keep  the  footing  in  the  steep  ascent  over  the  loose  and 
treacherous  ruins  of  slate  that  strew  the  way.  Hands  and 
feet  are  necessary.  Table  Eock  is  a  narrow,  projecting  ledge, 
only  some  six  or  eight  feet  wide  at  the  summit,  and  about  a 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  rising  in  almost  unbroken  preci- 
pice on  each  side  for  several  hundred  feet.  The  descent  is 
even  more  arduous  than  the  ascent.  It  will  be  found,  how- 
ever, that  the  view  from  the  summit  repaj's  the  toil  of  the 
scramble.  It  is  no  small  trial  for  Aveak  nerves  to  walk  out 
upon  the  side  of  the  ISTotch  upon  this  cliflf,  not  more  than  six 
feet  wide,  and  eight  hundred  feet  sheer,  down.  No  part  of 
the  ride  up  Mt.  Washington  makes  the  head  swim  so  giddily. 
From  it  one  can  easilj-  see  into  Maine,  Vermont,  and  Canada. 
Only  a  few  miles  east  lies  Lake  L'mbagog,  where  the  moose 
congregate  in  the  evening  to  stand  up  to  their  necks  in  water 
and  '  fight  flies,"  as  the  guides  express  it.  A  tourist  might 
spend  a  few  days  very  profitably  in  exploring  the  novelties 
of  the  districts  that  lie  around  tlie  Xotch.  On  the  face  of 
this  clifi",  seen  from  below,  some  locate  the  usual  Erofile, 
without  which  a  mountain  pass  is  regarded  as  incomj^lete. 

"After  about  an  hour's  stay  upon  the  i)innacle  one  should 
descend  and. ride  through  the  pass  to  a  flume  just  before  the 
eastern  gatewaj'  is  reached.  Nearly  opposite  the  entrance  to 
the  flume  will  be  found  a  remarkably  cold  spring.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  road,  in  the  woods,  just  beyond  the 
Notch,  there  is  a  series  of  beautiful  cascades,  extending 
nearly  a  mile,  surf>assed  in  beauty  and  volume  by  none  in  the 
whole  White  Mountain  region. 

"The  grand  distinctive  features  of  Dixville  Notch  are  deso- 
lation and  decaj^.  How  charming,  then,  the  surprise,  in  pass- 
ing through  the  Notch  eastward,  to  ride  out  from  its  spiky 
teeth  of  slate  into  the  most  lovely  plain,  called  '  The  Clear 


220 


FAREAll'S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE   TO 


Stream  Meadows,'  embosomed  in  mountains,  luxuriantly- 
wooded  to  the  crown.  It  is  something  like  descending  from  the 
desolation  of  the  Alps  into  the  foliage  and  beauty  of  Italy. 
The  only  house  near  was  accidentally  burned  a  few  years 
since.  The  graves  of  the  earliest  settler  and  his  wife  are 
there,  fenced  off  rudely,  and  overgrown  with  tall  weeds, 
which  nature  wears  for  them.  How  many  of  the  great  and 
wealthy  of  our  land  will  find  such  a  cemetery?  A  mountain 
range  for  a  monument ;  a  luxuriant  valley  for  a  grave ;  such 
silence  to  sleep  in  as  no  Mt.  Auburn  can  assure,  and  their  sto- 
ry told  to  visitants  from  far-off  portions  of  the  land  1 " 


CHAPTER  XVT. 


10  PORTLAND  by  boat  or  cars,  as  already  de- 
scribed ;  thence  by  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  to 
iSTorth  Stratford ;  thence  by  Upper  Coos  Rail- 
road to  Colebrook ;  thence  to  Dixville  Notch,  and 
Errol  Dam,  by  stage ;  thence  by  Steamer  Par- 
machenee  across  Lake  Umbagog  to  Middle  Dam 
Carry;  then  team  across  the  carry,  five  miles,  to 
Middle  Dam.  Time,  two  days  from  Boston. 
Leaving  Portland  from  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
road Station,  at  the  foot  of  India  street,  on  the  1.30  train,  we 
pass  swiftly  across  the  bridge  and  through  the  deep  rock-cut- 
ting at  Fish  Point.  Casco  Bay  then  opens  to  view,  and  for  a 
mil"  or  more,  while  passing  around  the  Neck  and  over  tlie 
bridge  that  crosses  to  Westbrook,  the  broad  bay  is  seen,  dot- 
ted v'ith  numerous  islands,  receding  to  the  dim  shores  of 
Brunswick  and  Harpswell, — a  distance  of  twenty  miles. 

The  train  sweeps  rapidly  through  the  easterly  portion  of 
"Westbrook,  a  distance  of  nearly  two  miles,  presenting  some 
pleasant  views  of  land  and  water,  then  crosses  the  Presunip- 
scot  River,  over  a  substantial  l)ridge  three  hundred  feet  in 
length,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  farther  on  reaches  the  depot  at 
Falmouth,  five  miles  from  Portland.  This  is  a  farming  town, 
althouo;h  on  the  eastern  side  some  shiivbuildinii;  is  carried  on. 
Leaving  here,  we  pass  through  an  undulating  farming  coun- 
try, pleasant  to  look  out  on  but  of  no  especial  interest,  and 

stop  for  a  moment  at  Cumberland,  nine  miles  from  Portland. 

221 


222  F.UIRAR'S  ILLUSTIIATED  GUIDE   TO 

This  i^lace  is  similar  in  character  to  Fahnouth.  Moving 
again,  obtaining  occasional  glimpses  of  the  land-locked  baj'^, 
a  few  minutes'  ride  brings  us  to  the  flourishing  seaport  of 
Yarmouth,  eleven  miles  from  Portland,  a  very  pleasant  old 
town,  where  formerly  considerable  ship-building  was  carried 
on.  A  mile  above  this  station  the  Grand  Trunk  Eailroad 
crosses  a  branch  of  the  Maine  Central,  formerly  the  Portland 
and  Kennebec  road.  This  crossing  is  known  as  Yarmouth 
Junction,  and  both  of  the  roads  nave  depots  here.  This 
branch  of  the  Maine  Central  runs  from  Portland  to  Augusta ; 
from  Brunswick,  a  station  on  the  road,  another  branch  di- 
verges to  Bath. 

Leaving  the  junction  we  rattle  northward  once  more 
through  an  agricultural  country  devoid  of  any  striking  fea- 
tures, and  halt  for  a  moment  at  North  Yarmouth,  fifteen 
miles  from  Portland.  Business  attended  to,  again  we  move, 
and,  after  making  a  short  run,  reach  Pownal,  nineteen  miles 
from  Portland.  A  few  minutes  here  sufiice,  and  on  we  go, 
the  country  becoming  more  undulating,  presenting  many 
charming  views  to  the  e5^es  of  the  tourist,  and  soon  slack  up 
at  Xew  Gloucester,  twenty-two  miles  from  Portland,  one  of 
the  best  farming-towns  in  the  State ;  the  village  lies  west  of 
the  station,  on  elevated  land,  and  looks  very  pretty  from  the 
cars.  After  a  short  stop  the  whistle  is  heard  again,  and  on 
we  go  to  Danville  Junction,  twenty-eight  miles  from  Port- 
land. At  this  point  the  Grand  Trunk  crosses  the  Maine  Cen- 
tral Eailroad,  running  from  Portland  to  Auburn,  Lewiston, 
Farmington,  Waterville,  Skowhegan,  and  Bangor. 

Jjcaving  the  "  crossing,"  a  few  moments'  ride  brings  us  to 
Lewiston  Junction.  Here  a  short  but  important  branch  of 
the  Grand  Trunk  diverges  to  the  two  great  manufacturing 
places  of  Maine,  Lewiston  and  Auburn.  Stages  also  run  from 
this  station  to  the  celebrated  Poland  Springs. 

Again  in  motion  and  flying  along,  passing  cultivated  fields 
and  green  pastures,  with  an  occasional  strip  of  woodland,  we 
reach  the  Empire  Poad  station,  in  the  town  of  Poland,  thirty- 
two  miles  from  Portland.  This  is  an  agricultural  country, 
and,  requiring  no  further  notice,   we    leave  it  as  the  steam- 


THE  AXDEOSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  223 

whistle  again  sends  forth  its  warning  note,  and,  speeding 
merrily  away  we  get  one  stage  farther  on  our  journey, 
slowing  down  this  time  at  the  flourishing  village  of  Mechanic 
Falls,  situated  on  the  Little  Androscoggin  river,  and  thirty- 
six  miles  from  Portland.  The  stream  mentioned  above  fur- 
nishes ample  Avater-j)0wer,  and  a  large  amount  of  manufac- 
turing is  done  here.  This  is  one  of  the  live  places  in  Oxford 
County,  and  is  growing  very  fast.  The  "  Rumford  Falls  and 
Buckfield  Eailroad"  connects  here  with  the  Grand  Trunk. 
It  runs  through  Mechanic  Falls,  Minot,  Hebron,  Buckfield, 
and  Sumner,  to  Canton,  its  present  terminus,  on  the  Andro- 
scoggin Eiver.  At  Canton  stages  connect  daily  for  Dixfield, 
Mexico,  Eoxbur}',  and  Byron. 

Eeturning  to  the  train,  we  again  move  onward,  following 
up  the  valley  of  the  Little  Androscoggin  Eiver, — which  stream 
we  cross  several  times, — and  put  on  the  brakes  at  Oxford,  for- 
ty miles  from  Portland.  Here  our  stoj)  is  but  momentary, 
and  at  the  signal  from  the  conductor,  who  shouts  "All 
aboard !  "  we  rattle  on  once  more.  From  this  point  the  land- 
scape improves  with  every  mile,  and  the  tourist  notes  with 
pleasure  the  beautiful  and  romantic  views, — a  rolling  mead- 
ow, where  browsing  kine  are  moving  slowly,  looking  up  with 
wonder  at  the  fiery  monster  rushing  by  them;  a  tranquil 
bend  in  the  river,  overhung  with  droox)ing  elms  and  graceful 
maples ;  a  trout-fisher  standing  on  some  lone  rock  or  fallen 
tree,  watching  anxiously  for  the  onset  of  some  spotted  beau- 
ty; distant  mountains,  whose  peaks  are  sharply  outlined 
against  the  ethereal  blue, — all  lend  a  charm  to  the  ride,  and 
you  scarcely  notice  the  approach  to  the  next  station,  which 
proves  to  be  South  Paris,  forty-eight  miles  from  Portland. 
The  village,  which  is  large  and  flourishing,  lies  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  station.  Paris  hill,  so  called,  is  about  two  miles 
beyond,  and  is  thickly  settled.  The  court-house  is  located 
here,  Paris  being  the  shire-town  of  Oxford  County.  A  branch 
of  the  Grand  Trunk  Eailway  runs  from  South  Paris  to  Xor- 
way,  a  mile  and  a  half  distant.  Our  iron  steed,  having  taken 
his  regular  rations  of  fuel  and  water,  is  once  more  hurrjing 
onward.      Off  to  the  right  we  catch  a  passing  glimpse  of  the 


224 


FAER.VK'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


buildings  on  Paris  Hill,  with  the  farms  and  orchards  map- 
IDing  its  southern  slope.  The  grade  now  rises  fast,  the  sur- 
rounding hills  assume  loftier  proportions,  and  the  scenery 
begins  to  be  more  diversified  m  character.  While  you  are 
noticing  the  gradual  change  in  the  landscape,  the  engineer 
whistles  "Down  brakes  I  "  and  in  a  moment  more  the  train 
comes  to  a  halt  in  front  of  the  West  Paris  station,  fifty-five 
miles  from  Portland.  You  have  scarcely  time  to  take  a  look 
about  you  here  before  the  train  is  again  in  motion.  Four 
miles  from  this  station  commences  the  heaviest  grade  on  the 
whole  road,  being  a  rise  of  sixty  feet  to  the  mile.  This  con- 
tinues until  you  arrive  at  the  Bryant's  Pond  station,  in  the 
tovm  of  Woodstock,  a  distance  of  sixty-two  miles  from  Port- 
land. The  track  has  now  attained  an  elevation  of  seven  hun- 
dred feet,  and  you  begin  to  realize  that  joii  are  getting  up  in 
the  world.  A  granite  quarry  that  is  owned  and  worked  by 
the  railroad  company  is  passed  just  before  reaching  the  sta- 
tion. W^hile  on  the  train  one  day  in  June,  several  years  ago, 
the  writer  witnessed  a  singular  occurrence.  We  were  be- 
tween West  Paris  and  Bryant's  Pond,  and  had  just  reached 
the  steepest  part  of  the  grade.  All  at  once,  without  any 
warning,  the  speed  of  the  train  began  to  slacken,  and  it  finally 
came  to  a  stand-still.  The  passengers  left  the  cars  to  ascer- 
tain the  cause  of  this  sudden  stop,  and,  to  their  wonder 
and  surprise,  found  both  the  tracks  and  road-bed  cov- 
ered with  millions  of  caterpillars,  who  were  travelling  to 
greener  fields  and  pastures  new.  So  many  of  these  disgust- 
ing insects  had  been  crushed  under  the  wheels  that  the  track 
was  covered  with  slime  and  grease,  and  the  Avheels  of  the  en- 
gine refused  to  tm-n.  The  train  was  backed  a  short  distance, 
while  the  railroad  emploj^Ss  on  the  train  took  brooms  and 
cleared  the  tracks  ahead,  which  were  then  covered  with  sand. 
This  furnished  our  iron  steed  a  foothold,  and  making  a  re- 
newed and  vigorous  start,  we  passed  the  crawling,  wriggling 
mass  of  insect  life,  and  reached  the  station.  It  reminded  us 
of  Western  stories  that  tell  of  trains  being  frequently  stopped 
on  the  plains  by  the  flights  of  grasshoppers.  We  had  never 
taken  much  stock  in  these  yarns ;   but,  after  being  an  eye- 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN"  LAIvES. 


225  1 


witness  to  the  caterpillar  incident,  we  were  prepared  to  be- 
lieve they  might  be  true.  The  village  of  Bryant's  Pond  is 
very  prettily  situated,  and  derives  its  name  from  the  beautiful 
and  romantic  sheet  of  water  in  sight  of  the  station.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  pond  a  bold  and  rugged  highland,  thickly 
wooded,  rises  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  a  thousand  feet. 
It  is  called  Mount  Christopher,  taking  its  name  from  an  early 
settler  of  this  region,  one  Christopher  Bryant,  the  miniature 
lake  retaining  his  family  appellation.  This  mountain  is  easily 
ascended  from  its  western  side,  and  the  extensive  view  its 
summit  commands  will  amply  recompense  the  tourist  for  the 
time  and  labor  of  the  ascent.  Goose-eye  mountain,  in  Newry, 
and  White  Cap,  near  Andover,  in  all  their  sterile  and  rugged 
grandeur,  may  be  seen  to  the  north-east  from  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  cars  as  you  approach  the  Bryant's  Pond  station. 
At  this  place  passengers  who  are  intending  to  visit  the  Andro- 
scoggin Lakes,  the  paradise  of  sportsmen  and  tourists,  the 
greatest  hunting  and  fishing  district  east  of  the  Pocky  Moun- 
tains, or  the  new  summer  resort,  the  pleasant  village  of  An- 
dover, leave  the  cars  here  and  go  over  the  Great  Central 
Route  to  these  places.  The  easy  and  commodious  four-horse 
Concord  coaches  of  Messrs.  Tuttle  and  Son  will  be  found  at 
the  depot  in  waiting  to  convey  travelers. 

It  may  not  be  generally  known  that  this  whole  region  was 
surveyed  bj^  the  railroad  company  before  the  railroad  was 
built,  in  hopes  of  finding  a  feasible  route  farther  north  than 
the  present  one,  but  without  success.  A  passable  route  to 
the  ]jake  Basin,  by  following  the  Ellis  River  from  Andover 
through  Dunn's  Notch,  was  reconnoitered,  departing  from 
the  present  line  at  Bryant's  pond ;  but  insurmountable  obsta- 
cles interposed  between  the  lakes  and  the  Connecticut  River, 
the  only  depression  between  these  points  showing  any  chance 
of  a  route,  that  of  the  famous  Dixville  Notch,  being  1,968 
feet  above  tide-water,  and  the  topography  of  the  region 
thence  being  of  such  a  character  as  to  require  a  grade  of 
eighty  feet  per  mile  for  over  ten  miles ;  while  by  the  iDresent 
route  of  the  road,  the  greatest  elevation  east  of  the  Connecti- 
cut is  but  1,062  feet,  the  passage  of  the  general  summit,  at 


22G  FAiir.AirS  ILLUSTliATED  GUIDE    TO 

Island  Pond,  ],17G  feet,  and  the  heaviest  grade  but  sixty  feet 
to  the  mile.  The  axis  of  the  elevation  of  the  whole  peninsula 
east  of  Lake  Champlain  is  in  fact  north  of  the  Umbagog  Ba- 
sin, in  which  general  summit  the  Connecticut,  the  Andro- 
scoggin, the  Kennebec,  the  Penobscot,  the  Chaudiere,  and 
the  St.  Francis  Rivers  take  their  rise.  The  general  level  of 
this  region  is  between  2,000  and  3,000  feet  above  the  ocean, 
and  its  dominant  peaks  of  the  Camel's  Pump  and  Aziscohos 
Mountains  vie  in  their  winter  dress  with  the  white  summit  of 
their  more  southern  neighbor.  Mount  Washington. 

Leaving  Bryanfs  Pond,  we  soon  strike  the  Alder  Stream, 
following:  it  down  to  the  main  Androscoggin  Piver,  a  distance 
of  eight  miles,  nature  unrolling  for  our  delight  a  x^anorama 
of  mountain  scenery  that  holds  our  close  attention,  until  our 
arrival  at  Locke's  Mills,  sixtj'-five  miles  from  Portland,  a  vil- 
lage possessing  no  particular  interest.  High  hills  and  lofty 
ridges  surround  us  as  we  leave  the  station ;  but  in  a  short 
time  we  emerge  from  the  ru'i'ged  heisihts  so  close  at  hand, 
coming  out  on  a  lovely  intervale  of  the  Androscoggin,  pre- 
senting some  of  the  finest  landscape  views  the  road  com- 
mands, and  stop  at  Bethel,  seventy  miles  from  Portland,  the 
favorite  point  of  departure  for  the  celebrated  Androscoggin 
Lakes,  and  the  most  direct  route  to  Dixville  Xotch,  the  Ma- 
o-allowav  Eiver  and  Parmachenee  Lake.  Bethel  is  also  well 
known  as  a  beautiful  and  popular  summer  resort.  A  first- 
class  stage  route  is  operated  between  Bethel  and  the  new 
Lakeside  House,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Umbagog,  in  Cambridge, 
N.  H.,  by  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Company, 
daily,  excepting  Sunday,  connecting  with  the  morning  and 
afternoon  trains.  The  road  runs  through  the  celebrated 
Grafton  Xotch,  introducing  the  tourist  to  some  of  the  wildest 
mountain  scenery  in  Xew  England.  Connection  is  made  at 
Lake  Umbagog  with  steamer  Parmachenee,  and  parties  visit- 
ing the  Magalloway  Eiver  and  Parmachenee  Lake  always  go 
by  this  line.  A  full  description  of  this  route  is  given  in 
Chapter  III.  Bethel  is  a  very  attractive  place  in  summer, 
and  is  annually  visited  by  a  large  number  of  strangers.  The 
village  known  as  "  Bethel  Hill  "  sits  on  a  commanding  height 


Wild  IvIver  Bridce,  Graxd  Truxk  Railway. 


228  FAEEAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


west  of  the  railroad  depot.  It  has  several  hotels,  the  Bethel 
House  being  the  largest,  and  the  Elms  second  in  size. 

Again  we  are  speeding  up  the  Androscoggin  Valley,  scenes 
of  wild  grandeur  and  romantic  beauty  meeting  the  eye  on  ev- 
ery side,  a  short  ride  bringing  us  to  "West  Bethel,  a  station  of 
but  little  importance,  seventy-four  miles  from  Portland.  A 
short  distance  beyond  here  the  train  passes  over  Pleasant 
River  bridge,  and  about  a  mile  farther  on  you  obtain  a  fine 
view,  far  up  the  valley,  of  Mounts  Jefferson  and  Adams,  lift- 
ing their  conical  summits  over  the  shadowy  ridges  of  Mount 
Moriah.  Five  miles  from  "West  Bethel  we  cross  Wild  River, 
over  a  bridge  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length.  From  an 
old  handbook  of  travel  we  quote  : — 

"  This  river  is  a  child  of  the  mountains, — at  times  fierce, 
impetuous,  and  shadowy  as  the  storms  that  howl  around  the 
bald  heads  of  its  parents,  and  bearing  down  everything  that 
comes  in  its  path ;  then,  again,  when  subdued  by  long  sum- 
mer calms,  murmuring  gently  in  consonance  with  the  breezy 
rustle  of  the  trees  whose  branches  droop  over  it.  An  hour's 
time  may  swell  it  into  a  headlong  current ;  an  hour  may  re- 
duce it  to  a  brook  that  a  child  might  ford  without  fear. 

"  This  vicinity  is  rife  with  legends  of  the  Indian  wars.  One 
of  the  last  acts  of  the  aborigines,  ere  their  strength  was  for- 
ever broken,  was  an  onset  on  the  defenceless  village  of  Bethel, 
made  by  a  party  of  the  St.  Francis  tribe,  who  had  followed 
down  the  State  line  from  Canada.  They  carried  away  cap- 
tive a  man  named  Pettengill,  another  named  Sager,  and  two 
by  the  name  of  Clarke. 

"Pettengill  and  one  of  the  Clarkes,  after  proceeding  a  fev/ 
miles,  were  unable,  through  lameness,  to  go  on,  and  the  sav- 
ages finally  consented  to  their  return,  advising  them  to  keep 
to  the  same  trail  they  had  followed  up,  pretending  that  there 
were  hostile  scouts  on  all  others.  Clarke,  who  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  Indian  character,  suspected  treachery  in 
this  apparent  solicitude  for  their  safety,  and  as  soon  as  he 
was  out  of  sight  struck  into  the  woods  and,  swinmiing  the 
Androscoggin,  passed  down  the  opposite  side  with  safety. 
During  his  lonely  tramp  he  heard  the  report  of  the  gun  which 


THE  ANDEOSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  229 

proved  the  death-note  of  his  friend,  who,  taking  the  path 
designated,  was  followed  hack  by  the  savages  and  shot  dead. 
The  mutilated  body  of  poor  Pettingill  was  subsequently 
found,  and  buried  on  the  bank  of  the  Wild  River,  just  by  the 
bridge." 

Beyond  the  bridge  the  railroad  is  almost  closed  in  on  either 
hand  by  rude  cliffs  towering  many  feet  heavenwards.  The 
Androscoggin  River  is  still  to  be  seen  on  our  right,  turning 
and  twisting  through  the  narrow  strip  of  intervale  between 
the  railroad  and  base  of  the  mountains.  This  land,  although 
subject  to  overflow  bj'  the  spring  freshets,  is  all  cultivated, 
and  yields  good  crops.  We  now  reach  Gilead,  eighty  miles 
from  Portland,  and  with  but  a  moment's  halt  dash  on.  A 
mile  or  more  above  this  station  the.  track  crosses  the  bound- 
ary between  Maine  and  Xew  Hampshire.  Here,  bidding  fare- 
well to  the  Pine  Tree  State,  ^^  e  soon  find  ourselves  at  Shel- 
burne,  eighty-six  miles  from  Portland.  Just  beyond  the  de- 
pot, to  the  left  of  the  railroad,  may  be  seen  the  beautiful 
summer  residence  of  W.  K.  Aston,  a  wealthy  Kew  Yorker, 
who,  with  his  family,  spends  the  greater  part  of  each  sum- 
mer at  his  charming  cottage.  And  now  the  mountains  grow 
higher  and  still  more  rugged,  and  a  short  ride  brings  us  with- 
in view  of  the  lofty  summits  of  Mounts  Washington,  Jeffer- 
son, and  Adams,  that  burst  upon  our  sight  from  behind  a 
wooded  ridge  of  Mount  Moriah.  For  the  next  few^  miles,  till 
we  arrive  within  a  short  distance  of  the  depot  at  Gorham, 
these  mighty  peaks  remain  constantly  in  view.  Just  after 
leaving  the  Shelburne  station,  the  cars  pass  near  a  high  bluff, 
called  Granny  Starbird's  Ledge.  An  immense  granite  bould- 
er, many  thousand  tons  in  weight,  a  great  portion  of  which 
has  been  blown  to  pieces  and  used  in  the  construction  of  the 
railroad,  formerly  rested  on  a  shelf  of  the  ledge.  Under  this 
rock,  it  is  said,  an  aged  matron,  named  Starbird,  who  sup- 
plied the  place  of  physician  to  the  section,  long  time  ago, 
found  refuge  during  one  of  the  wildest  storms  that  ever 
smote  the  mountains.  She  was  on  her  way  on  horseback, 
alone,  to  visit  a  i^atient,  where  her  presence  was  thought  to 
be  indispensable,  (so  the  story  goes) ,  when  night  and  storm 


230  l\NJ^RAll-S  ILLUSTHATED  GUIDE  TO 

overtook  her ;  bewildered  by  the  pelting  rain,  she  was  glad 
to  avail  herself  of  such  shelter  as  the  rock  could  afford. 
House  there  was  none  for  miles,  and  here  she  remained  cow- 
erins:  all  the  Ions:  ni2:ht  with  a  fearful  chorus  confusinir  her 
ear, — the  rushing  of  the  great  rain  through  the  darkness,  the 
voice  of  the  countless  streams  that  flooded  every  cliff  and  ra- 
vine, the  wail  of  the  great  trees  on  the  ridges  as  they  writhed 
and  struggled  and  swayed  in  the  merciless  grasp  of  the  gale, 
and  the  oft-repeated  howl  of  the  shivering  wolf  driven  from 
his  lair  by  the  incursions  of  the  storm,  commingled  with  the 
hoarse  boom  of  the  swollen  river  that  made  the  very  earth 
tremble.  The  laggard  morning  broke  at  last  above  the  hills, 
but  it  brought  no  cheer  to  that  "weary  auld  matron." 
Many  a  noble  forest-giant  lay  shattered  on  the  acclivities 
about  her ;  the  torrents  still  poured  their  turbid  floods,  and, 
filling  the  whole  valley  like  a  sea,  the  river  swept  onward, 
grinding  and  crashing,  noisj?-  and  tumultuous,  with  its  debris 
of  trees  and  timber,  gravel  and  rocks ;  nor  was  it  till  noon, 
when  the  clouds  retired  to  the  higher  peaks,  the  sun  shone 
out,  and  the  streams  began  to  fall  as  suddenly  as  they  had 
risen,  that  she  was  able  to  resume  her  journey. 

Skirting  the  base  of  Mount  Moriah,  with  the  silvery  river 
on  our  right,  a  curve  in  the  road  suddenly  brings  us  in  sight 
of  the  station,  and  the  train  stops  at  Gorham,  ninety-one 
miles  from  Portland.  At  this  place  passengers  en  route  for 
the  White  Mountains  leave  the  train,  and  proceed  by  stage  to 
the  Glen  House,  eight  miles  distant,  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
"Washington.  A  fine  new  hotel,  the  Alpine  House,  was  built 
during  1878  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Eailway  Comi^any,  directly 
opposite  the  depot.  It  Avill  accommodate  about  one  hundred 
people  comfortably,  and  the  rooms  are  all  very  x^leasant. 
The  table  in  summer  is  furnished  with  all  the  delicacies  of 
the  season.  It  occupies  the  same  site  as  the  old  hotel  of  that 
name  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  a  few  years  ago.  The 
new  house  is  a  great  improvement  over  the  old  one,  as  will 
be  seen  by  our  engraving.  Gorham,  situated  as  it  is  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains,  is  a  delightful  place  to  spend  the 
summer  in,  and  there  are  many  attractive  places  of  interest 


THE   ANDEOSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  231 

and  fine  drives  in  its  vieinit}'.  A  well-stocked  stable  is  con- 
nected with  the  Alpine,  and  parties  can  procure  teams  at  any 
time.  Mount  Hayes,  on  the  right  of  the  raih-oad,  is  one  of 
the  finest  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  Gorham,  and  its 
ascent  from  the  village  is  comparatively  easy.  A  fine  view 
of  Mount  Carter,  the  Imp,  and  Mount  Moriah  is  to  be  ob- 
tained from  Gorham.  The  "Mascot"  silver  mine,  located  on 
the  side  of  Mount  Hayes,  is  one  of  the  attractions  for  sum- 
mer tourists,  most  of  whom  pay  it  a  visit.  The  main  en- 
trance is  in  sight  from  the  right-hand  side  of  the  train. 

Leaving  the  depot,  the  road  crosses  Moose  Eiver,  about  a 
mile  above,  and  soon  after  commences  the  long  grade,  over- 
coming the  summit  between  the  Androscoggin  and  Connecti- 
cut Rivers.  In  the  region  of  Berlin  Falls  the  river  descends 
two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  a  distance  of  two  miles.  At 
this  point  the  Androscoggin  River  could  be  easily  turned 
into  the  Connecticut,  the  Upper  Amraonoosuc,  an  important 
tributary  of  that  river,  taking  its  rise  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  Androscoggin,  and  descending  thence  over  one  hun- 
dred and  ninetv  feet  into  the  Connecticut  Yallev  at  Groveton. 
Reaching  the  Berlin  Falls  station,  ninety  -seven  miles  from 
Portland  the  train  stops  again.  This  is  a  lumbering  village 
of  considerable  importance  and  rapid  growth ;  the  mills  of 
the  Berlin  Mills  Company  of  Portland  are  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  Androscoggin  River,  a  mile  or  more  from 
the  depot.  A  branch  track  runs  from  the  road  near  the 
station  directly  to  their  mills,  necessitated  by  the  enormous 
quantity  of  lumber  that  they  annually  send  over  the  road  to 
their  wharves  in  Portland,  twenty  car-loads  per  day  being 
the  average  number  for  each  day  excei)t  Sundays.  Sawed 
and  planed  lumber  of  every  description  is  manufactured 
here,  and  in  the  busy  season  the  mills  are  run  night  and  day, 
two  gangs  of  men  being  employed.  This  industry  furnishes 
labor  to  a  large  number  of  men,  and  the  Company  have  a 
store  and  boarding-house  of  their  own  near  the  mills. 

The  village  is  a  charming  place  to  stop  in  summer,  and  one 
of  the  finest  views  of  the  White  Mountains  to  be  obtained  in 
any   direction  may  be  had  from  the  road  near  the  Berlin 


TIIE  AXDROSCOGGrN"  LAIvES.  233 

Compaiij^'s  store.  During  the  last  few  years,  several  large 
mills  have  been  erected  here  for  the  manufacture  of  paper 
13ulp,  from  poplar,  spruce,  etc.,  and  they  are  doing  a  large 
business.  The  process  of  manufacturing  the  pulp  is  a  verj'' 
interesting  one ;  but  we  cannot  take  space  here  to  describe 
it. 

A  short  distance  below  the  mills  are  the  picturesque  rapids 
known  as  the  Berlin  Falls.  Here  the  entire  volume  of  the 
Androscoggin  Eiver  pours  through  a  rocky  defile  about  fifty 
feet  in  width, — descending  in  the  si)ace  of  a  hundred  j^ards 
nearly  twice  as  many  feet.  In  its  passage  from  the  lakes  it 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Diamond,  Magalloway,  and  Clear 
Rivers,  besides  several  streams  of  minor  importance,  so  that 
at  this  point  it  is  scarcely  inferior  in  volume  to  the  Connecti- 
cut at  Groveton.  Seething  and  i^luuging,  and  torturing  into 
billows  of  snowy  foam,  it  rushes  down  the  narrow  race, — 

"Kapid  as  the  light, 
The  flashing  mass  foams,  shaking  the  abyss," 

presenting  a  i^icture  at  once  grand  and  romantic,  and  on 
which  the  eye  of  an  artist  would  love  to  linger.  From  the 
wooden  bridge  across  the  chasm  one  may  obtain  a  fine  view, 
not  onlj'  of  the  falls,  but  up  and  down  the  river. 

Persons  lingering  in  this  vicinity"  will  find  the  Cascade 
House,  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  H.  F.  Marston,  an  agreeable 
place  to  stop  at.  The  trout-fishing  about  the  village  is  also 
very  good.  The  Alpine  Cascade,  the  Jasper  Cave,  and  the 
summit  of  Mount  Forest,  are  usually  visited  by  tourists  stop- 
ping at  Berlin.  Xo  more  pleasant  drive  can  be  taken  in  Xew 
England  than  from  the  village  of  Berlin  Falls  to  Gorham,  a 
distance  of  six  miles,  the  road  following  the  river  the  whole 
way. 

Again  in  motion,  we  find  that  a  short  distance  above 
Berlin  Falls  station  the  road  skirts  Dead  Eiver  Pond,  then 
striking  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Ammonoosuc,  follows  it 
down  (frequently  crossing  that  erratic  stream)  to  the  Con- 
necticut. The  next  stopping-place  is  Milan,  one  hundred 
and  four  miles  from  Portland.     There  is  nothing   of    special 


234  FAEEAE'S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE    TO 

attraction  here,  and  we  rattle  on  to  West  Milan,  another  un- 
important station,  one  hundred  and  nine  miles  from  Port- 
land, and  Stark,  one  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  from  Port-  ^ 
land.  A  mile  or  so  from  here  we  pass  by  a  tremendous  cir- 
cular precipice,  called  the  DeviFs  Slide,  M'hose  perpendicular 
wall?,  shattered  and  torn  apparently  with  some  mighty  con- 
vulsion, rise  to  the  height  of  five  or  six  hundred  feet.  The 
Indians,  in  their  mythology,  peopled  all  these  mountain 
regions  with  invisible  spirits,  who  controlled  the  winds  and 
storms,  and  in  their  quarrels  hurled  the  gleaming  thunder- 
bolts at  each  other,  the  effects  of  which  were  seen  in  the 
splintered  trees  and  shivered  rocks ;  and  they  have  a  tradi- 
tion that  in  a  remote  age  a  huge  mountain  barred  the  valley 
where  now  the  railroad  passes,  and  that  on  a  time  when  the 
heavens  were  convulsed,  the  earth  reeling,  and  the  atmos- 
phere blazing  with  the  terrible  warfare  of  these  invisible 
powers,  one  half  of  the  mountain  sank  down  into  the  bowels 
of  the  earth,  leaving  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  other  bare 
and  shattered,  as  they  have  remained  to  the  present  day. 
Just  beyond  this  locality  you  open  on  a  fine  view,  off"  to  the 
right,  of  those  remarkable  twin  mountains,  the  Stratford 
Peaks, — generally  considered  to  be  the  most  symmetrical 
elevations  of  the  whole  mountain  region.  Standing  aside 
from  the  dark  mountain  ridges  which  swing  away  northerly, 
their  white  cones  clearly  defined,  the  tourist  cannot  mistake 
them,  from  whatever  point  viewed ;  they  are  the  admiration 
of  all  who  behold  them.  Having  these  peaks  in  sight  almost 
constantly  for  six  miles,  we  next  find  ourselves  at  Groveton, 
one  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles  from  Portland.  This  is 
quite  a  pretty  village,  and  opposite  the  railroad  depot  will  be 
found  a  good  hotel.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  fine, 
and  teams  may  be  hired  at  the  hotel  by  those  who  wish  to 
enjoy  the  beautiful  drives.  Half  a  mile  above  here  is  a 
station  known  as  Groveton  Junction,  the  terminus  in  this  di- 
rection of  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Eailroad,  whose  trains 
connect  with  those  of  the  Grand  Trunk.  A  very  fine  view 
of  the  mountains  is  to  be  had  from  this  point. 
Leaving  the  junction  we  move  onward  again,  the  scenery 


236  FAP.EAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

still  occupying  our  attention,  and  make  short  stops  at  two 
unimportant    stations,   accommodating    the  farmers   in  the 
vicinit3^    The  first  of  these,  Stratford  Hollow,  is  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-seven  miles  from  Portland ;  and  the  second, 
Bcattie's,   one    hundred    and  thirty    miles    from    Portland. 
Passing  on  from  the  last-named,  a  short  ride  brings  us  to 
Xorth  Stratford,  one  hundred  and  thirtj'-four  miles  from 
Portland,  lying  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Connecticut  Eiver; 
here  we  change  cars  and  continue  our  journey  by  the  Upper 
Coos  Eailroad.    There  are  two  hotels  near  the  station  where 
tourists  will  find  good  accommodation,  the  Willard  House, 
opposite  the  railroad,  and  the  Percy  House  on  the  left-hand 
side,  just  beyond  the  depot,  if  they  wish  to  stop  over  a  few 
days.    The  train  leaves  for  Colebrook,  thirteen  miles  distant, 
as  soon  as  the  mails  and  passengers  are  read5\    The  railroad 
follows  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut  Eiver  the  entire  dis- 
tance, the  stream  favoring  us  with  many  charming  views,  as 
it  is  in  sight  most  of  the  wa3^    As  we  ride  up  the  valley  our 
attention  is   claimed   b}'  a  lofty  peak  some  distance  ahead, 
which  pops  into  view  every  now  and  then  as  the  cars  follow 
the  twists  and  turns  of  the  road.     This  is  Mount  Monadnock, 
situated  on  the  Vermont  side  of  the  river,  directly-  opposite 
Colebrook,  whose  summit  commands  views  both  up  and  down 
the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  for  many  miles.    Every  visitor 
to  Colebrook  should  be  sure  to  make  its  ascent.    Arriving  at 
Colebrook  you  proceed  to  either  the  Monadnock  or  Parsons 
House,  as  you  prefer,  both  good  hotels,  where  you  stop  over 
night. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 


Routes     from       Boston,       Expense, 

Hunting-,  etc. 


Scenery,      Fishing-, 


PORTS^IEX  visithio;  the  Lower  Magallo- 
way,  the  Diamond  Rivers,  Parmachenee 
Lake,  or  the  Upper  Mag-alloway,  have  a 
choice  of  routes  during  the  first  half  of 
the  trip.  From  Boston  to  Portland  by 
either  route  previously  described.  At 
Portland  take  the  cars  on  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  to  Bryant's  Pond ;  thence  via  Andover  by 
stage,  buckboard,  and  boat  to  the  ^Middle  Dam  ;  buckboard 
across  the  "carry"'  to  Sunday  Cove,  where  j'ou  take  the 
steamer;  thence  across  Lake  L^mbagog,  down  the  Andro- 
scoggin, and  up  the  3Iagalloway  River. 

Second  Route.  This  is  the  more  direct,  and  three-quarters 
of  the  visitors  to  Parmachenee  go  this  waj-.  Leave  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  at  Bethel;  thence  by  stage  through 
Grafton  Xotch  to  the  Lakeside  Hotel,  at  the  foot  of  Umbagog 
Lake,  in  Cambridge,  X.  H. ;  then  by  steamer  across  Lake 
Umbagog,  down  the  Androscoggin,  and  up  the  Magalloway 
River. 

Third  Route.  Leave  the  railroad  at  Colebrook,  and  proceed 
to  Errol  Dam  through  the  celebrated  Dixville  Xotch.  At  the 
dam  connection  is  made  with  steamers  Parmachenee  or  Azis- 
cohos  for  all  points  above. 

The  distance  from  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  X.  IL,  at  the  foot 
of  Umbagog    Lake,  to     Parmachenee     Lake,  as   traveled     is 

about  sixty  miles,  and  the  steamer  will  carry  you  to  the  Lower 

237 


238  F.VEKAR-S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 


Landing,  or  Upper  Landing.  The  fine  steamers  of  the 
Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Companj-,  run  up  the 
Magalloway  River,  daily  except  Sunday,  from  the  time  the 
ice  goes  out,  which  is  generally  about  the  middle  of  May,  to 
about  the  middle  of  October,  except  occasionally  a  day  or  two 
in  May  or  June,  when  navagation  is  obstructed  by  logs 
in  the  river.  On  those  rare  occasions  passengers  are  for- 
warded by  team.  As  the  scenery  going  up  Umbagog 
Lake  has  been  described  in  the  trip  to  the  Middle  Dam,  we 
will  commence  at  Sunday  Cove,  and  continue  from  that 
point.  The  distance  from  the  head  of  Sunday  Cove  to  Errol 
Dam  is  ten  miles.  Leaving  the  cove  you  have  a  fine  view  of 
Mt.  Dustan,  and  other  peaks  along  the  Magalloway  Eiver. 
Passins:  Ea2:le  Point  vou  enter  the  lake  and  head  south. 
From  here  until  you  enter  the  river  you  have  a  fine  view  of 
mountain  towering  above  mountain,  the  lake  being  entirely 
surrounded  by  them.  Saddleback,  Speckled,  and  the  "White 
Mountains  are  the  most  conspicuous,  the  two  first  lying  ofi"  to 
the  south-east,  the  latter  in  the  southwest. 

If  the  water  is  high  the  steamer  runs  across  what  is  known 
as  the  "Richardson  Carry,*'  on  meadow  land,  bare  at  low 
water.  When  the  gates  are  shut  at  Errol  Dam  there  are 
about  seven  feet  of  water  on  this  carrj-.  If  the  water  is  low 
the  boat  continues  down  the  lake  until  opposite  "Glassby 
Cove,"  when  it  enters  the  river  through  the  regular  outlet. 
The  view  from  the  outlet  looking  south-east  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  State,  Saddleback  and  Speckled  Mountains  ap- 
pearing at  their  best  from  this  point.  The  farms  at  the  foot 
of  the  lake,  and  East  B  Hill,  also  lie  spread  out  before  you. 
To  the  south  the  Hampshire  Hills  and  the  town  of  Cambridge 
are  seen.  West  lies  Errol  Mountain,  and  other  sightly  peaks, 
and  to  the  north,  Mounts  Dustan  and  Aziscohos.  The 
land  about  the  outlet  is  very  low,  and  was  once  thickly  wood- 
ed; but  the  rise  of  the  water  has  destroyed  all  the  forest, 
and  onh^  a  few  old  stumps  and  picturesque  dead  trees  remain. 
The  entrance  to  the  river  is  very  blind,  and  strangers  might 
hunt  for  hours,  as  indeed  they  often  have,  without  finding  it. 
This  is  a  great  locality  for  ducks,  and  through  September  aad 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  239 

October  a  large  number  are  shot  liere.  The  most  common 
kinds  are  the  black,  coot,  wood,  whistler,  and  sheldrake ;  eagles 
and  fish-hawks,  and  several  varieties  of  marsh  birds,  are  also 
found  here,  and  musk-rat,  mink,  and  otter,  are  plenty. 

Following  the  crooked  channel  of  the  river,  which  in  the 
six  miles  between  the  lake  and  the  dam  makes  about  thirty 
distinct  turns,  j'ou  have,  as  the  steamer  twists  about,  views 
from  all  points  of  the  compass.  From  about  the  middle  of 
July  to  the  first  of  October  the  sides  of  the  river  are  carpeted 
with  water-lilies,  that  present  a  beautiful  sight,  and  fill  the 
air  with  their  delightful  odor.  The  captain  of  the  steamer  is 
accommodating,  and  often  stops  to  gather  them  for  lady 
passengers,  and  thus  thousands  are  carried  away  each  year ; 
but  the  next  only  sees  them  more  abundant. 

A  little  over  a  mile  from  the  lake  you  reach  the  turn  where 
the  steamer  enters  the  river  from  the  "Richardson  Carry,"  and 
rounding  this  the  banks  of  the  river  gradually  rise  in  height, 
and  you  are  in  the  midst  of  a  forest,  made  up  of  nearly  all  the 
trees  indigenous  to  Xew  England.  When  you  first  approach 
the  live  forest,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  river,  you  pass 
Leonard  Pond,  a  good  fishing  ground.  A  half  mile  below 
the  pond  you  pass  "Moll's  Carry,'- on  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
river.  The  steamer  cuts  across  this  at  hisrh  water  when  <2:oino: 
directly  down  the  lake,  and  saves  several  miles  of  naviga- 
tion. A  short  distance  farther  down  you  pass  the  mouth  of 
the  Magalloway,  which  enters  the  Androscoggin  on  the  right. 
It  is  two  miles  from  the  lake.  Xothing  can  be  more  beauti- 
ful than  the  sail  on  the  Androscoggin  and  Magalloway  Rivers, 
the  banks  on  each  side  heavih^  wooded,  and  many  of  the  trees 
bending  gracefully  over  the  water,  the  dark  green  of  the  fir 
and  sjDruce  intermingled  with  the  lighter  tints  of  the  birch, 
maple,  and  elm.  Many  of  the  firs  are  covered  with  long 
trailing  moss,  giving  them  a  decidedly  romantic  appearance. 
Dead  trees,  veritable  monarchs  of  the  forest,  are  met  with  at 
intervals  standing  boldly  out  from  the  green  woods,  pre- 
senting, with  their  scaggy  limbs  and  bare  trunks,  a  bit  of 
the  picturesque  that  would  quickly  cause  an  artist  to  bring 
forth  his  sketch-book. 


Steamer  Diamond  on  Cambridge  River,  Lake  Umbagog. 


TITE  AXDROSCOGGIX  LAKES.  241 

Half  a  mile  below  the  Magalloway  an  abrupt  turn  takes 
you  around  "Quick  Water  Point,"  on  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  stream.  The  river  here  is  very  shoal  and  somewhat  rocky, 
and  at  low  water,  as  a  matter  of  precaution,  steam  is  shut 
partially  off  for  a  short  distance,  and  the  captain  takes  extra 
care  to  keep  in  the  narrow  channel.  This  is  the  only  bad 
piece  of  navig'ation  between  the  lake  and  the  dam,  although 
a  lookout  is  always  kept  for  "snags''  and  "sawyers,"  that 
are  more  or  less  X)lenty  in  all  fresh-water  rivers.  While  there 
is  a  strong  current  in  the  river,  the  water  is  so  deep  that  it  is 
not  perceptible  on  the  surface,  except  at  "Quick  Water  Point." 
Both  of  the  rivers  preserve  a  nearl}'  uniform  width  of  from 
thirty  to  fifty  5\ards,  the  3Iagalloway  being  not  only  the 
narrowest,  but  the  most  serpetine. 

A  short  distance  below  the  i^oint,  on  the  left-hand  side  of 
the  river,  we  pass  a  shallow  pond,  of  considerable  size,  con- 
sidered by  guides  a  good  place  to  float  for  deer,  and  many 
have  been  shot  there.  Still  farther  down  on  the  right-hand, 
is  the  "Big  Meadow,"  so  called,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
inlet  near  the  head  is  a  first-rate  place  for  pickerel.  A 
mile  below  the  meadow  you  reach  the  dam,  which  does  not 
show  until  you  are  a  few  rods  from  it.  The  steamer  lands 
at  her  wharf,  beside  the  road,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
a  short  distance  above  the  dam.  The  boat  arrives  here 
at  half-past  ten,  and  leaves  at  eleven.  It  is  met  each  day 
by  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Company's  team 
to  convej"  parties  to  Dixville  Notch. 

There  are  several  buildings  around  the  dam,  all  belonging 
to  the  Union  Water  Power  Companj^,  of  Lewiston,  Me.,  con- 
sisting of  a  nice  two  story  and  a  half  dwelling-house,  barn, 
storehouse,  blacksmith-shop,  grist-mill,  and  boat-house.  In 
the  half  hour  you  stop  here  you  will  have  time  to  inspect  the 
dam  and  buildings  if  you  wish.  Some  trout  are  taken  in  the 
quick  water  below  the  dam,  and  down  the  river  as  far  as 
the  bridge. 

At  eleven  o'clock  the  steamer  whistles,  and,  casting  off, 
you  are  soon  running  up  the  Androscoggin,  retracing  your 
course  as  far  as  the  Magallowaj-,  and  a  turn  of  the  wheel  to 


242  FAPKAR-S  ILLUSTRATED  GUmE  TO 


port,  carries  you  into  the  river.  A  run  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  a  straight  line,  and  then  "Hard  a  starboard !"  and  you  whisk 
around  a  sharp  angle  to  the  right,  and  from  this  point  until 
j^ou  land  it  is  a  steady  twist  and  turn.  The  scenery  of 
this  river  is  unsurpassed  by  any  in  New  England,  and  I 
have  been  told,  by  people  who  have  done  Florida  thoroughly, 
that  it  is  superior  to  any  in  that  State.  As  the  stream  nar- 
rows in  some  i^laces  the  trees  almost  meet  overhead,  and  one 
can  reach  out  and  touch  them  as  the  steamer  passes  swiftly 
along.  For  the  first  ten  miles  from  the  dam  not  a  sign  of 
civilization  intrudes  upon  you,  and  gazing  at  the  heavily 
timbered  forest  where  an  occasional  giant  pine  rears  its 
lofty  head  far  above  the  other  trees,  you  exclaim  with  Long- 
fellow,— 

"TMs  is  the  forest  primeval." 

On  your  sail  3'ou  will  see  the  brown  and  bald  eagles, — the 
latter  the  typical  American  bird, — spreading  their  huge  wings, 
in  pursuit  of  some  unlucky  fish-hawk,  who,  having  worked 
hard  to  procure  a  meal,  is  now  destined  to  lose  it.  The  bald- 
headed  eagles  in  this  country  are  the  largest  I  have  ever  seen, 
and  they  have  been  shot  and  measured  nine  feet  from  tip  to 
tip  of  wing.  There  are  many  small  ponds  Ij^ing  contiguous 
to  the  river  on  both  sides,  and  connected  with  it  by  short 
streams,  that  are  often  filled  with  ducks,  with  blue  herons 
stalking  near  them.  Deer,  bear,  caribou,  and  moose,  are  oc- 
casionally caught  sight  of  along  the  river,  as,  frightened  by 
the  steamer,  they  r)lunge  into  the  leafy  cover  of  the  woods. 
The  banks  of  the  stream  vary  in  height  from  two  to  eight 
feet  according  to  the  number  of  gates  open  at  the  dam,  and  a 
good  camping-spot  may  be  found  readily. 

About  four  miles  up  the  Magalloway  you  pass  some  rocks 
on  the  left  side,  then  make  a  sharp  turn  to  the  right.  Look- 
ing back  as  you  make  this  turn  you  obtain  the  most  roman- 
tic and  picturesque  view  on  the  river.  About  half  a  mile  of 
the  stream  can  be  seen,  in  some  places  the  trees  almost  meet- 
ing overhead,  and  the  silvery  lane  of  water  through  this 
vista  of  living  green  presents  a  picture  that  j^ou  will  not  soon 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIN  LAIOi:S.  243 

forget.  The  country  people  who  go  up  and  down  this  beau- 
tiful throughfare  seem  generally  to  care  nothing  about  the 
scenery ;  but  one  day,  when  coming  down  the  river,  as  we 
turned  this  bend,  an  old  fellow  on  the  boat  who  had  caught 
the  view  just  at  the  right  moment  was  for  an  instant  brought 
to  a  realizing  sense  of  the  beauties  of  natui-e,  and  looking  at 
me,  said,  "I  snum  now,  Mister,  if  that  aint  the  purtiest 
sight  I  ever  saw." 

A  mile  above  here  you  pass  Pulpit  Rock,  or  the  "Devil's 
Pulpit,-'  as  some  of  the  lumbermen  call  it,  a  large  boulder 
rising  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge,  on  the  right-hand  side 
of  the  river.  Nearly  opposite  this,  in  the  middle  of  the  stream, 
is  a  large  flat  ledge,  that  the  steamer  is  obliged  to  give  a  wide 
berth  to,  as  the  rock  is  covered  by  water  part  of  the  time. 
The  ground  beside  Pulpit  Eock  is  a  favorite  camping-place, 
and  there  are  but  few  weeks  throughout  the  summer  season 
when  there  are  not  one  or  more  tents  pitched  there.  There  is 
a  good  spring  a  few  rods  back  in  the  woods,  and  plenty  of 
fuel  handy. 

About  a  mile  above  here  the  river  makes  a  complete  turn 
in  the  shape  of  a  letter  U,  and  across  the  narrow  neck  of 
land  a  canal  has  been  cut,  through  which  we  pass,  making 
a  saving  of  many  rods  in  distance,  and  a  few  minutes  in  time. 
Beyond  this  you  pass  Bear  Brook,  on  the  left,  spanned  by  a 
wooden  bridge, — the  first  signs  of  civilization  you  have  met 
since  leaving  the  dam.  A  short  distance  above,  you  pass 
Bottle  Brook,  also  on  the  left.  There  are  several  rocks  at 
the  mouth  of  this  brook,  and  the  steamer  hugs  closely  to  the 
right  bank  of  the  stream.  A  primitive  log  house  stands  by 
the  bank  of  the  brook,  the  first  dwelling  seen.  It  was  built 
for,  and  inhabited  by,  an  Indian  Squaw  for  several  years,  who 
made  her  living  by  peddling  home-made  baskets  and  medi- 
cines.   A  white  family  occupies  it  now. 

A  mile  above  you  reach  the  lower  landing,  known  as  "Little- 
hale's"  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  river,  in  Wentworth's 
Location,  N.  H.  The  lower  Magalloway  Settlement  extends 
from  Bottle  Brook  to  about  two  miles  above  the  lower  land- 
ing.   From  here  a  good  road  follows  the  right  bank  of  the 


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TIIE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  245 

Magalloway  to  the  Upper  Settlement,  and  from  thence  to  the 
head  of  Aziscohos  Falls,  ending  a  few  rods  above.  From 
the  top  of  a  high  hill  on  Littlehale's  farm,  near  the  steam- 
boat landing  an  extensive  view  is  obtained  of  the  valley 
both  up  and  down  the  river.  Mount  Dustan,  which  we  have 
seen  so  many  times  on  our  way  up,  has  been  run  to  earth  at 
last,  and  is  now  directly  opposite  of  us  in  the  west.  Some 
distance  north,  old  Aziscohos  still  frowns  down  upon  us,  and 
it  will  be  a  long  time  before  we  altogether  lose  sight  of 
this  gigantic  peak.  Nine  miles  above  Littlehale's  is  the  head 
of  Aziscohos  Falls,  where  you  connect  with  the  new  steamer 
"Magalloway,"  for  points  higher  up  the  river  and  Parmache- 
nee  Lake.  The  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Com- 
pany runs  a  daily  team  between  the  two  boats,  leaving  those 
who  wish  to  stop  at  either  the  Berlin  Mills  House,  at  the 
Lower  Settlement,  or  Flint's  Hotel  in  the  Upper  Settlement. 

Leaving  Littlehale's  Landing,  the  boat  steams  on  ui)  the 
river,  the  scenery  increasing  in  beauty  and  sublimity  as  the 
valley  narrows.  Mounts  Dustan  and  Aziscohos  are  dodging 
around  you  continually  now,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on 
the  other,  while  the  peculiarly  shaj)ed  Diamond  Peaks,  some 
miles  above,  occasionally  put  in  an  appearance.  In  making 
this  last  six  miles  there  is  one  part  of  the  stream  so  crooked 
that  by  making  a  canal  across  a  narrow  neck  of  land  but  a 
few  rods  wide,  two  miles  of  navigation  might  be  saved.  Af- 
ter a  half  hour's  sail,  which  to  my  mind  is  the  prettiest  part 
of  the  route,  the  steamer  glides  in  to  the  bank  on  the  left- 
hand  side  of  the  river,  and  ties  up  at  what  is  known  as 
"Flint's  Landing,"  in  Wentworth's  Location,  N.  H.  The 
baggage  is  unloaded  and  with  the  passengers  is  transferred 
to  the  team,  which  leaves  immediately  for  the  head  of  the 
falls.  Some  days  the  boat  runs  a  mile  or  more  above  to  the 
Brown  Farm.  Taking  the  down-river  passengers  on  board, 
the  steamer  salutes  you  with  a  whistle,  and  is  off,  reaching 
Errol  Dam  at  half-past  three,  Sunday  Cove  at  half-past 
four,  and  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  at 
six  o'clock. 

The  hotel  in  the  Lower  Settlement  is  situated  on  what  is 


246  FAERAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

called  the  Brown  Farm,  in  Township  5,  Eange  1,  Maine,  and 
is  but  a  short  distance  from  the  landing.  It  is  owned  by  the 
Berlin  Mills  Company,  and  stands  on  high  land,  overlooking 
the  Magalloway  River  and  valley  for  several  miles.  It  has 
accommodations  for  about  twenty  people.  The  terms  are 
$2.00  per  day.  The  fishing  in  the  vicinity  is  first-rate,  there 
being  plenty  of  both  trout  and  pickerel.  The  pickerel  are 
caught  on  the  Magalloway,  a  few  miles  down  the  river.  The 
trout  are  caught  on  the  Diamond  Rivers,  emptying  into  the 
Magalloway  about  a  mile  above  the  hotel.  Sturtevant  Pond, 
but  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel,  contains  trout,  and  a 
small  pond  beyond,  emptying  into  Sturtevant,  is  full  of  the 
smaller  brook  trout.  Trout  Pond  and  the  Diamond  Ponds, 
near  the  head  of  the  Swift  Diamond  River,  are  well  supplied 
with  trout. 

Parties  who  are  bound  for  Ward's  Camp,  procure  a  con- 
veyance at  the  Brown  Farm  to  carry  them  as  far  as  the 
Forks,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dead  Diamond.  Here  Mr.  "Ward, 
or  one  of  his  guides  meets  the  party  with  canoes,  and  pad- 
dles them  up  the  river  twenty  miles  to  what  is  known  as 
"Hell  Gate  Falls."  At  this  point,  Amasa  Ward,  who  is  one 
of  the  best  and  most  reliable  hunters,  trappers,  and  guides, 
in  this  region,  has  built  a  substantial  log  camp,  which  is 
divided  into  two  apartments,  one  of  which  is  used  for  a 
kitchen,  and  the  other  for  a  sitting-room  and  sleeping  apart- 
ment combined.  This  house  is  neat  and  comfortable,  and 
Mr.  Ward  has  a  cook  who  understands  his  business. 

It  is  a  very  pleasant  trip  from  the  Berlin  Mills  House  to 
Ward's  Camp,  the  route  lying  along  the  Diamond  River, 
under  the  shadow  of  the  peculiar-shaped  mountain  peaks  of 
the  same  name,  until  the  mouth  of  the  Dead  Diamond  is 
reached.  From  the  settlement  to  this  point,  a  distance  of 
three  miles,  you  will  prefer  walking  to  riding,  as  the  road  is 
very  rough. 

Embarking  in  the  canoe,  the  guide  paddles  you  up  the 
beautiful,  but  crooked  river,  which  is  not  so  "dead"  as  its 
name  would  indicate,  there  being  more  or  less  current  all 
the  way.    The  river  is  about  one  hundred  feet  wide  the  en- 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN"  LAICSS.  247 

tire  distance  and  flows  through  a  line  piece  of  meadow  land, 
until  it  reaches  the  hilly  district  Miiere  occasional  ledges 
creep  out,  and  finally  culminate  in  Hell  Gate  Falls,  your  ob- 
jective x>oint.  The  scenery  is  fine  the  entire  twenty  miles, 
and  would  alone  repay  you  for  the  trip,  but  you  will  find 
plenty  of  fish  and  game  in  the  vicinity  of  Mr.  Ward's  camp. 
Of  the  scenerj'-,  fishing,  and  hunting,  around  this  part  of  the 
Diamond  River,  a  gentleman  who  has  been  a  guest  of  Amasa 
says : — 

*'Few,  comparatively,  among  the  thousands  of  summer 
tourists  who  annually  visit  "the  Switzerland  of  America,"  in 
quest  of  health  or  the  sport  to  be  derived  from  fishing  or  the 
chase,  are  aware  that  their  object  might  be  best  obtained 
north  of  the  mountains  in  the  Upper  Coos  country,  as  it  is 
called,  along  the  head-wafers  of  the  Connecticut  and  the 
Androscoggin. 

"Dead  Diamond  river  is  a  tributary  of  the  Magalloway,  and 
enters  that  river  about  twelve  miles  from  the  junction  of  the 
Magalloway  with  the  Androscoggin,  which  latter  x>oint  is 
about  four  miles  from  Errol  Dam,  N.  H.  It  is  my  purpose 
to  describe  the  Dead  Diamond  River,  its  adjacent  meadows 
of  wonderful  fertility,  the  hills  and  mountains  in  the  dis- 
tance crowned  with  dense  forests  of  wood  and  timber,  to- 
gether with  the  remarkable  trout-fishing  to  be  found  within 
its  shady  pools,  and  picture  to  the  sportsman  the  home  of  the 
game  that  to-day  roams  its  banks  comparatively  unmolested, 
as  it  has  done  from  the  earliest  times. 

"In  the  first  place  I  would  like  to  change  the  name  of  the 
river  to  that  of  "Beautiful  river,"  for  to  my  mind  if  there  is 
a  river  in  this  northern  countrv  or  elsewhere  deservins:  of 
that  title  this  is  it,  and  beside  "Dead  DiarayDnd"  is  sure  to 
convey  a  wrong  impression  to  the  mind  of  the  stranger,  at 
least  it  gave  me  a  wrong  impression.  This  name  "was  given 
it  to  distinguish  it  from  the  "Swift  Diamond,"  a  tributary  of 
this,  which  runs  through  a  more  hilly,  mountainous  region, 
but  while  this  is  not  so  rapid  as  its  neighbor  it  is  by  no  means 
a  dead  or  sluggish  stream ;  on  the  contrary  its  waters  move 
along  its  banks  ^vith  suflScient  rapidity  to  prevent  the  forma- 


,o 


248  FAERAE^S  ILLUSTEATED  GUIDE  TO 

■  ■■■■.  ■  ■  ■  ...  I  .         .        -        I       ■  t 

tion  of  any  stagnant  pools  or  soft,  marshy  lands,  and  its 
broad  meadows  have  the  appearance  of  being  thoroughly 
drained. 

"Its  general  course  is  northwesterly  and  southeasterly,  or 
what  would  be  nearer  the  truth,  going  up  river  north  20 
west,  but  it  is  very  serpentine,  in  short  it  is  a  continuation  of 
beautiful  bends  and  curves  that  partially  enclose  broad  mead- 
ows of  exceedingly  fertile  land,  varying  in  extent  from  100 
to  500  acres  each,  extending  back  to  the  hills  on  either  hand, 
whose  sides  are  also  rich  and  fertile,  as  is  plainly  shown  by 
the  heavy  growth  of  spruce,  pine,  j^ellow  birch,  and  rock 
maple,  that  covers  them  completely. 

"It  would  seem  that  nature  had  peculiarly  fitted  this  lovely 
valley  with  a  special  design  for  its  habitation  by  man,  for  its 
meadows  of  rich  loam,  tiie  alluvial  deposit  of  centuries, 
would  produce  the  grasses  in  abundance, — in  fact  they  grow 
here  to-day  wherever  there  happens  to  be  a  small  clearing  on 
or  near  the  river  bank,  or  across  the  extremity  of  the  small 
peninsulas  formed  by  the  sharp  bends  in  the  river.  On  sev- 
eral of  these  we  passed  through  blue  joint  grass  taller  than 
our  shoulders,  and  so  thick  that  it  formed  quite  an  obstruc- 
tion to  our  progress ;  one  of  the  tallest  of  ttiese  spears  of 
blue  joint  I  cut,  and  found  it  to  measure  six  feet,  seven 
inches. 

"Under  proper  cultivation  these  meadows  might  produce 
the  hay  and  grain,  and  the  hillsides  the  pasturage  that  would 
support  large  herds  of  cattle,  sheep  and  horses,  and  other 
domestic  animals. 

"Upon  these  small  peninsulas  grow  stately  elms  and  beauti- 
ful silver  maples,  and  if  the  dense  undergrowth  of  grass, 
wild  weeds,  elder  bushes  and  the  like  were  cut  away  they 
would  be  changed  at  once  to  beautiful  miniature  parks.  The 
land,  especially  the  meadows,  would  be  very  easy  of  culti- 
vation, as  there  are  no  stones  except  such  as  are  seen  in  huge 
ledges  that  occasionally  adorn  the  hillsides,  and  seem  to  be 
placed  there  to  be  used  as  foundation  stones  for  the  future 
homes  of  those  who  shall  some  time  settle  in  and  open  up 
this  beautiful  valley. 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAICES.  249 


"Until  within  the  past  two  or  three  years  this  region  has 
been  comparatively  unknown,  except  to  a  few  lumber  men 
who,  several  winters  ago,  lumbered  along  this  river,  and  a 
much  less  number  of  hunters  who  occasionally  followed  the 
trail  of  a  buck  or  a  moose  into  the  wilderness  till  they 
reached  their  natural  feeding  grounds,  the  meadows  of  this 
river  and  its  tributaries. 

"About  two  years  ago  one  of  these  men,  Amasa  Ward,  a 
veteran  hunter,  trapper  and  guide,  having  learned  the  fact 
during  his  repeated  excursions  here  that  the  moose,  caribou 
and  deer,  owiug  to  the  rich  pasturage  upon  these  fertile 
meadows,  were  more  plentiful  here  than  on  the  Magalloway 
or  elsewhere  hi  this  region,  whither  he  had  pursued  them, 
determined  to  establish  a  camp  at  Hell  Gate  Falls,  on  the 
Dead  Diamond,  about  20  miles  from  its  mouth,  as  the  river 
runs. 

"The  first  camp  built  was  small,  and  afforded  but  scanty 
accommodation  to  a  party  of  four  or  five  persons ;  later  on 
Amasa  built  a  very  substantial  log  house  32  feet  in  height  by 
20  feet  in  width,  divided  into  two  apartments,  one  of  which 
is  used  for  a  kitchen  and  the  other  for  a  sitting-room  and 
sleeping  ai:)artment  combined.  One  is  not  a  little  surprised 
to  find  that  with  the  meagre  supply  o?  materials  and  so  few" 
tools,  chiefly  an  axe,  a  saw  and  a  hunting  knife,  so  comforta- 
ble quarters  could  have  been  constructed.  But  Amasa  is  a 
mechanic  as  well  as  a  hunter,  and  his  necessities  during 
manj'  seasons'  experience  in  the  woods,  have  comi^elled  him 
to  seek  out  many  inventions. 

"The  logs  on  the  inside  of  the  house  are  all  hewn  and  the 
floors  are  made  of  planks  hewn  from  solid  spruce  logs,  and 
their  surfaces  are  so  smooth  and  their  joints  so  closely  fitted 
that  they  would  do  credit  to  more  pretentious  buildings  in- 
side the  pale  of  civilization.  The  roof  is  covered  with  spruce 
bark,  nicely  fitted,  the  inside  laid  upon  the  rafters  so  that 
with  the  hewn  walls  the  interior  of  the  cabin  presents  a 
cleanly  and  inviting  appearance. 

"The  beds  are  made  with  the  tip  ends  of  balsam  boughs, 
which  shed  an  agreeable  fragrance,  laid  carefully  upcn  each 


250  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

other  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  more  over  which  are  spread 
clean  wool  blankets,  and  within  these  one  obtains  a  more  re- 
freshing night's  repose  than  in  the  rooms  of  many  so-called 
first-class  hotels.  The  table  is  a  surprise,  being  supplied  at 
all  times  m- ith  brook  trout  in  abundance,  broiled  partridges 
occasionally,  and  venison  in  its  season.  Tom  Bennet,  the 
cook,  understands  his  j)rofession,  and  the  savory  meals  that 
he  prepares  would  tempt  the  appetite  of  an  epicure. 

"Hell-Gate  Falls,  so  called  by  the  lumbermen  on  account  of 
the  difficulty  and  at  times  great  danger  in  running  logs 
through  or  over  them,  deserves  a  passing  notice.  At  this 
point  the  hills  come  down  on  one  side  close  to  the  river, 
where  a  ledge  of  immense  proportions  forms  the  river 
bed  and  its  sides.  The  action  of  the  water  during  centuries 
has  cut  a  remarkable  flume  or  channel  through  it  about  thirty 
feet  in  width  and  about  twentj^-five  rods  in  length,  as  straight 
as  an  arrow,  and  so  smooth  and  regular  are  its  walls  on  either 
side  that,  at  first  sight,  it  seems  the  work  of  the  engineer 
rather  than  nature's  handiwork.  We  soon  discover,  however, 
it  is  grander  work  than  was  e'er  designed  by  mortal  man. 
Passing  through  this  flume,  the  water  falls  forty  or  fifty  feet 
in  going  ten  to  fifteen  rods  farther,  over  a  solid  stone  apron, 
then  shoots  another  ledge,  and  descends  into  a  basin  almost 
circular  in  form  and  about  two  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  the 
bottom  of  which  is  very  difficult  to  find,  so  deep  is  the  water. 
This  natural  basin  is  Amasa's  trout  jDreserve,  and  from  it  his 
table  is  daily  supplied. 

"Above  and  below  the  falls  are  other  pools  and  eddies  at 
short  intervals  that  fairly  swarm  with  trout.  We  visited  one 
of  these  pools  a  mile  below  the  falls  one  day,  after  there  had 
been  a  light  rain  during  the  night,  and  such  fly-fishing  as  we 
enjoj'^ed  during  more  than  two  hours  is  seldom  seen.  The 
moment  the  "leader"  fell  upon  the  water,  one,  two,  and  in 
some  instances  even  three  trout  broke  water  for  the  flies,  and 
in  several  cases  we  succeeded  in  landing  two  fish  at  a  single 
cast.  The  trout  were  not  large,  averaging  fully  a  quarter  of 
a  pound,  some  half,  and  a  few  three-quarters  of  a  pound, 
by   actual    weight  on  scales,  not    by   the   average  fisher- 


252  FAIJR All's  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

man's  guesswork,  but  they  were  very  gamey,  thus  adding 
zest  to  the  sport ;  and  fat  and  i^lump  as  mackerel,  which 
made  them  delicious  when  served  at  the  table. 

"There  are  large  fish  here,  but  at  this  season  of  the  year 
they  lie  dormant  at  the  bottom  of  dark,  secluded  pools,  and 
it  is  next  to  impossible  to  induce  them  to  rise.  In  June  last, 
Amasa  took  at  four  successive  casts  four  trout,  one  weighing 
two  and  a  half  pounds,  and  the  others  one  and  a  half  pounds 
each;  but  every  sportsman  knows  that  fishing  of  this  de- 
scription is  a  rare  occurrence  anywhere  or  at  any  time.  We 
hooked  one  and  lost  him  that  we  judged  would  weigh  two 
and  a  half  pounds ;  and  here,  perhaps,  it  would  be  well  to 
add  that  the  average  weight  this  jear  of  trout  that  are  lost 
in  these  waters  is  about  three  pounds. 

"Above  the  flume  we  come  again  on  broad,  fertile  meadows, 
hundreds  of  acres  in  extent,  lying  along  this  river  and  three 
or  four  tributaries  that  enter  it  within  a  distance  of  four  or 
five  miles,  and  here  upon  these  meadows  is  the  real  feeding 
ground  of  the  caribou,  moose  and  deer,  where  hundreds  of 
the  latter  roam  in  almost  perfect  freedom  and  security. 

"About  six  miles  up  river  is  what  hunters  call  a  "deer  lick ;" 
saltish  water  oozes  from  a  spot  of  earth  of  perhaps  one 
quarter  of  an  acre  in  extent,  to  which  the  deer  come  daily 
and  remain  perhaps  for  hours  to  "lick"  the  saline  water  from 
the  muddy  pool. 

"Approaching  this  pool  with  caution  one  may  see  almost 
any  day,  or  any  hour  of  the  day,  one,  two,  half  dozen,  and 
sometimes  even  a  dozen  deer  standing  in  and  around  it. 

"It  acquires  considerable  nerve  to  stand  with  a  Winchester 
repeating  rifle  in  your  hand,  peering  through  the  leaves  and 
bushes  into  the  dark  brown,  lustrous  eyes  of  a  full-grown 
buck  with  an  endeavor  to  look  him  out  of  countenance  and 
not  offer  to  shoot;  but  there  are  men  who  arc  said  to  have 
accomplished  this  feat — in  fact,  it  has  to  be  done  at  the  pres- 
ent time,  for  it  is  the  "close"  season  for  such  game  in  this 
State,  and  the  laws  must  be  obeyed. 

"There  are  also  two  or  three  ponds  in  this  vicinity  that  are 
much  frequented  by  deer,  upon    which  hunters   "float"   by 


TIIE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  253 

night  during  the  open  season  and  shoot  deer  under  the  ghire 
of  jack-lights.  Under  no  circumstances  will  Amasa  allow 
them  to  be  hunted  with  hounds,  as  this  scatters  them,  makes 
them  wild  and  would  finally  drive  them  to  "other  fields  and 
pastures  new." 

The  approaches  to  this  delightful  country  are  by  nature's 
grand  highway  up  this  beautiful  river  (whose  banks  are  cer- 
tainly one  hundred  feet  apart,  holding  this  width  up  to  the 
falls,  or  twenty  miles)  by  canoes  and  batteaux,  of  which 
Amasa  owns  a  fleet  of  fifteen  to  twenty  all  in  good  condition, 
recently  built  by  himself  after  the  most  approved  models. 

The  canoes  are  designed  with  special  reference  to  the 
rapids  in  this  river,  and  are  models  of  strength,  lightness, 
and  safety  combined,  which  it  would  seem  difiicult  for  even 
a  naval  constructor  to  improve  upon.  With  one  or  more  of 
these  canoes  Amasa  will  meet  parties  at  the  mouth  of  Dead 
Diamond,  convey  them  to  the  camp,  and  furnish  experienced 
guides  who  will  conduct  them  to  the  secret  abode  of  sylvan 
game. 

Mr.  Louis  Higginson  with  his  two  sons,  of  the  Charlestown 
District,  Boston,  came  to  the  camp  while  we  were  there,  and 
remained  three  weeks.  Mr.  H.  is  a  veteran  in  the  pursuit 
of  sylvan  game,  having  spent  many  seasons  in  this  northern 
wilderness,  and  he  declared  that  nowhere  had  he  found  fish 
and  game  so  plentiful  as  in  the  Dead  Diamond  region. 

The  shortest  and  most  direct  route  to  this  section  is  via 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Bethel,  thence  by  stage  twenty- 
seven  miles,  passing  through  Grafton  Notch,  whose  gran- 
deur, to  say  the  least,  rivals  that  of  either  of  the  notches  in 
the  White  or  Franconia  mountains,  to  Lakeside  on  Lake 
Umbagog,  thence  steamer  across  the  lake  forty  miles  to  the 
mouth  of  Dead  Diamond.  We  came  by  this  route,  and  can 
recommend  it  on  account  of  the  beautiful  scenery  up  the 
valley  of  the  Bear  River,  and  the  excellent  accommodations 
to  be  found  at  the  Lakeside  Hotel,  in  Cambridge,  at  the  foot 
of  Umbagog  Lake,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
steamer  for  Magalloway. 

Those  who  have  time  and  leisure,  and  taste  for  the  enjoj''- 


254  F.UiRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 

ment  of  nature  in  her  wildest  lovliness,  and  would  feel  their 
blood  tingle  at  the  hum  of  the  silken  line  or  the  bound  of  the 
dark  brown  doe,  will  never  regret  a  trip  of  a  few  weeks 
spent  in  the  delightful  region  contiguous  to  Dead  Diamond 
river. 

This  localitj''  brings  to  mind  an  old  story  of  a  tragedy  that 
occurred  many  years  ago  in  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Region, 
and  we  give  it  here,  knowing  that  it  will  be  of  Interest  to 
most  of  our  readers. 

"Where  the  Diamond  glances  down  from  the  forests  of 
College  Grant,  entering  the  Magalloway  under  the  shadow 
of  Mount  Dustan,  is  a  farm  originally  cleared  by  a  hunter 
named  Robbins.  He  was  a  stern,  vindictive  man,  and  wild 
stories  were  early  abroad  concerning  his  deeds.  In  the  fall 
of  1826,  in  company  with  several  companions — Hines,  Clout- 
man  and  Hayes, — all  hunters  by  profession,  he  went  upon 
the  Androscoggin  waters  to  trap  sable.  The  party  continued 
their  hunt  successfully  until  the  first  snows  fell,  when,  leav- 
ing Robbins  in  care  of  the  property,  his  comrades  started  on 
a  last  visit  to  the  traps,  extending  over  a  line  of  twenty 
miles.  On  their  return  the  camp  was  found  burned  and 
Robbins  and  the  furs  gone.  They  were  without  provisions  and 
sixty  miles  from  inhabitants ;  but  with  great  privations  and 
suffering  they  were  able  to  make  their  way  into  the  settle- 
ments. On  their  return  they  instituted  a  suit  in  the  courts 
of  Coos  county  against  Robbins,  which  was  carried  to  a  suc- 
cessful conclusion  and  execution  was  issued.  Spring  again 
came  around,  when  Robbins  proposed  to  Hines  to  hunt  once 
more,  promising  to  turn  his  share  of  the  proceeds  towards 
the  extinguishment  of  the  adjudged  debt.  Hines  consented, 
and  taking  with  him  his  son  of  fifteen  j^ears,  proceeded  to 
the  hunting  grounds  around  Parmachenee  lake.  Again  they 
were  successful,  when  one  day  as  Hines  was  returning  to 
camp,  he  was  met  by  Robbins  and  shot.  The  boy  was  killed 
by  a  blow  from  a  hatchet  and  Robbins  was  left  with  the 
bloody  spoil.  The  bodies  were  found  and  a  search  institu- 
ted. Robbins  was  arrested  in  the  woods  by  Lewis  Loomis 
and  Hezekiah  Parsons  of  Colebrook,  after  a  desperate  resist- 


25G  FAURAR-S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

ance,  and  lodged  iu  Lancaster  jaiL  Having  some  confeder- 
ate, he  obtained  tools  and  commenced  preparations  for  his 
escape.  Working  diligently  at  the  window  of  his  room  in 
the  old  Elm  Tree  jail,  he  succeeded  in  loosening  the  gratings, 
each  day  concealing  his  work  by  hanging  over  it  his  blanket, 
under  the  pretext  that  the  room  was  cold,  and  the  window 
admitted  air.  When  all  was  in  readiness  he  made  his  exit, 
and  the  night  before  his  trial  was  to  have  commenced  he  was 
missuig,  nor  was  any  search  successful.  Public  opinion  was 
strongly  against  the  jailer,  as  being  in  league  with  the  pris- 
oner, and  was  near  manifesting  itself  in  a  rude  manner. 
Strange  rumors  were  afloat  for  years  concerning  his  where- 
abouts and  career,  but  nothing  definite  was  known  by  the 
public  of  his  subsequent  life  or  final  decease. 

Between  the  mouth  of  the  Diamond  and  the  head  of  Azis- 
cohos  Falls  is  a  strong  current,  there  being  rapids  most  of 
the  way.  There  is  good  trout-fishing  on  the  Falls.  There  is 
good  partridge-shooting  on  the  Brown  Farm,  and  larger 
game  near  by,  several  deer  having  been  shot  in  and  around 
Sturtevant  Pond  the  last  year  or  two. 

Mount  Dustan,  before  spoken  of,  is  a  prominent  landmark 
from  the  piazza  of  the  hotel,  its  sloping  sides  covered  with  a 
growth  of  dark  spruce,  giving  it  a  sombre  appearance.  Its 
altitude  is  2,575  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The  wild  and  irreg- 
ular Diamond  Peaks,  above  Mount  Dustan,  on  the  same  side 
of  the  river,  also  make  a  fine  appearance  from  the  house. 

Due  north  the  great  white  peaks  of  Aziscohos — the  highest 
mountain  in  this  vicinity,  and  one  of  the  highest  in  Maine — 
rises  almost  to  the  snow  line.  We  have  before  spoken  of  it 
as  furnishing  n  magnificent  view  .of  the  entire  lak>^-  res, Ion 
and  some  tourists  think  the  view  from  its  summit  superior  to 
that  from  Mount  Washington.  Its  ascent  fiom  the  hotel  is 
quite  easy,  and  you  can  now  ride  within  two  miles  of  the 
top.  From  its  summit  over  one  hundred  sheets  of  water 
may  be  counted.  Ladies  often  ascend  this  mountain,  the 
paths  having  been  much  improved  within  the  past  two  3'ears. 
You  should  take  about  a  daj^  for  the  excursion,  the  team 
taking  you  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  the  morning,   and 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIX  LAKES.  257 


calling  for  you  in  the  afternoon.  Take  provisions  from  the 
hotel,  and  have  a  picnic  dinner  on  the  summit,  and  I  will 
guarantee  that  you  cannot  pass  a  pleasant  day  more  agree- 
ably. 

There  are  two  peaks  to  Aziscohos,  but  the  southern  is 
lower  than  the  northern,  and  is  overgrown  with  scrub  spruce. 
It  does  not  ofter  as  fine  views,  and  is  harder  of  access ;  un- 
less a  person  possesses  more  curiosity  than  sense,  they  will 
not  be  likely  to  visit  it.  The  distance  between  the  two  peaks 
is  over  half  a  mile,  and  the  walking  difficult.  On  the  highest 
peak  under  a  small  cairn  of  stones,  a  covered  tin  box  is 
j)laced,  containing  records  left  by  parties  who  ascend  the 
mountain.  Nearl}^  every  visitor  contributes  to  this  journal, 
and  it  forms  interesting  reading  for  each  new  comer.  We 
quote  here  from  a  private  journal,  giving  a  good  idea  of  the 
time  and  labor  s\)eiit  in  reaching  its  summit.  The  writer 
says : — 

"We  went  up  through  the  settlement  and  turned  off  from 
the  road  to  the  east,  passing  through  the  pastures ;  about 
two  miles  from  camp  we  entered  the  forest  and  commenced 
the  ascent  of  the  mountain.  The  path,  if  it  can  be  called 
such,  is  made  by  spotting  the  trees  (hewing  small  places  on 
their  trunks  to  guide  travelers  on  their  way) ;  but  even  this 
was  so  obscure  that  it  was  with  considerable  difficulty  that 
we  could  keep  the  trail.  The  distance  from  the  commence- 
ment of  the  ascent  to  the  summit  is  two  miles,  much  of  it 
being  very  steep,  making  the  task  of  climbing  it  by  no  means 
an  easy  one.  After  toiling  up  the  steep  path  awhile,  the 
light  suddenly  came  streaming  through  the  thick  forest,  and 
we  soon  came  out  from  among  the  trees  over  beautiful  beds 
of  thick  green  moss,  covering  huge  square  masses  of  granite 
of  which  this  mountain  is  composed.  Many  of  the  blocks 
were  as  square  and  as  straight  as  though  split  by  art.  The 
quality  is  rather  coarse,  and  the  color  almost  white.  There 
were  also  large  quantities  of  the  little  snow-white  cranber- 
ries, which  grow  so  plentifully  in  these  northern  latitudes 
among  the  moss.  They  were  covered  with  fruit  just  ripe 
and  of  delicious  flavor.    Passing  these  we  soon  reached  the 


258  FAEEAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

easterly  summit,  which  is  the  highest.  The  mountain  is  cov- 
ered with  forest,  all  but  about  one  thousand  acres  of  the 
summit,  which  has  been  burned  over,  and  is  one  immense 
blueberry  field,  except  a  few  acres  of  the  top,  which  is  bare 
and  rugged  granite.  The  view  from  the  top  amply  repaid  us 
for  the  labor  of  the  ascent,  and  is,  I  think  the  finest  I  ever 
saw,  not  even  excepting  that  seen  from  Mount  Washington. 
Standing  on  the  extreme  peak  the  eye  takes  in  the  whole 
horizon.  Away  in  the  south  lies  Umbagog  Lake ;  a  little 
farther  east,  Welokennebacook  and  Molechunkamunk  Lakes ; 
over  beyond,  and  connecting  with  them,  is  the  Mooselucma- 
guntic  Lake,  with  two  large  and  densely  wooded  islands  in 
the  centre.  Still  farther  in  the  north-east  is  Oquossoc  Lake, 
with  the  little  town  of  Eaugeley  lying  on  the  hill-side  be- 
yond, and  there  were  others  whose  names  I  could  not  as- 
certain. In  the  south  could  be  traced  the  course  of  the 
beautiful  Magalloway,  which  sparkled  in  the  sunlight,  a 
silver  ribbon,  as  it  wound  its  circuitous  course  up  through 
the  forest-clad  country  until  lost  to  view  under  the  mountain. 
Over  it  could  be  seen  Mount  Washington,  and  the  whole 
chain  of  the  White  Mountains,  towering  up  against  the 
southern  sky  like  a  gigantic  barrier  between  us  and  the 
country  beyond  them.  In  the  cast  Katahdiu  lifted  his  lofty 
peak,  far  away  in  the  distance,  the  noble  rival  of  Mount 
Washington,  and  but  five  hundred  feet  lower.  Between  us 
and  that  could  be  seen  the  great  basin  of  Moosehead  Lake, 
but  we  were  not  high  enough  to  see  the  water.  From  this 
point  around  to  the  north  and  west  is  one  vast  forest,  ex- 
tending as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  the  horizon  being  bound- 
ed by  mountains.  The  blueberries  were  just  in  their  prime, 
and  we  feasted  upon  them  until  we  could  eat  no  longer. 
They  were  of  very  large  size,  and  the  ground  was  blue  with 
them.  I  had  the  curiosity  to  measure  one,  and  found  it  to  be 
one  inch  and  three-fourths  in  circumference,  and  I  counted 
twenty-seven  large  and  fully  ripe  berries  in  one  cluster. 
The  wind  was  very  strong  and  high  on  the  summit,  and  we 
built  a  large  fire  in  order  to  keep  comfortable.  We  stopped 
on  the  summit  over  an  hour,  and  returned  to  camp  about 


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2G0  FARRAirS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 


five  o'clock,  exceedingly  pleased  with  our  first,  but  by  no 
means  last,  excursion  to  the  summit  of  Aziscohos." 

The  hotel  in  the  Upper  Settlement  is  kept  by  Fred  Flint, 
■whose  terms  are  $2.00  per  day.  It  accommodates  about 
thirty  people.  It  stands  on  level  ground,  with  the  Miigallo- 
way  River  behind  it,  and  Aziscohos  Mountain  in  front.  The 
ride  from  the  steamboat  landing  up  to  Flint's  is  very  pleas- 
ant, the  road  being  excellent  the  entire  distance.  The  river, 
valley,  and  mountains  engross  your  attention  and  you  obtain 
manj^  charming  views. 

A  short  distance  above  Flint's,  the  road  turns  east  and  runs 
across  Clark's  farm,  then  enters  the  woods.  Passing  Clark's 
house,  which  is  the  last  frame  building  you  see,  you  have 
only  the  great  wilderness  before  you,  dotted  with  an  occa- 
sional camp.  His  farm  is  the  extreme  limit  of  the  cleared 
land  on  the  river.  At  this  place  the  Magalloway  falls  over  a 
long  succession  of  ledges  down  the  ravine  between  Aziscohos 
and  Parker  Hill,  so  called.  The  entire  length  of  the  fall  is 
variously  estimated  at  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred 
feet. 

As  you  go  up  across  the  farm  there  is  a  good  view  of  the 
river  valley  below,  and  of  a  great  semicircular  mountain  to 
the- west  of  it  called  the  Half -Moon.  Beyond  Clark's  farm, 
the  road  crosses  a  sparkling  mountain  brook,  and  then  climbs 
a  steep  hill.  Bear,  caribou,  and  deer  are  quite  c3mmonly 
met  with  on  this  road,  and  some  ten  or  twelve  were  seen 
there  at  different  times  last  summer,  (1S8G.)  Before  reach- 
ing the  dam  you  pass  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  road  what 
was  formerly  known  as  Flint's  Camp.  It  is  not  inhabited 
now,  and  is  fast  being  torn  to  pieces  by  some  persons  who 
seem  to  have  no  respect  for  property,  nor  no  fear  of  the  law. 
The  upper  end  of  the  falls  where  you  come  out  of  the  carry 
road  is  a  very  wild-looking  place. 

The  stream,  black  as  ink,  and  overhung  with  straggling 
spi'uce,  rolls  tumultuously  down  over  huge  stones.  The  roar 
is  heavy  and  continuous.  Some  of  the  "pitches,"  show  a 
perpendicular  fall  of  twenty  feet  or  more.  In  one  of  these, 
some  years    ago,   a  lumberman  was  drowned.      His  name 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  261 


(Jack  Ahram)  is  cut  in  a  spruce  trunk  at  the  foot  of  the 
pitch.  Wliether  his  spirit  wanders  about  the  spot  at  mid- 
night we  know  not,  although  strange  sights  and  sounds  are 
sometimes  seen  and  heard  there.  The  "big  pitch"  seems  to 
be  a  fatal  place  for  lumbermen,  as  several  have  met  death 
there  since  poor  Jack,  the  last  unfortunate  havmg  lost  his 
life  in  July,  188G. 

At  the  head  of  the  Falls,  a  few  rods  above  the  dam,  is  the 
steamboat  landing,  and  from  here  the  boat  makes  daily  trips 
up  the  river. 

From  the  head  of  the  Falls  to  the  Little  Magalloway  is 
thirty-three  miles.  Parties  who  wish  to  ascend  the  river 
leisurely,  and  fish  or  hunt  on  the  way,  will  find  logging 
camps  along  the  river  bank  every  few  miles,  where  they  can 
camp  out  comfortably.  These  camps  are  not  in  use  by  the 
lumbermen  between  the  first  of  May  and  the  first  of  Novem- 
ber, and  the  owners  do  not  object  to  sportsmen  using  them, 
providing  they  respect  the  rights  of  property,  and  leave  the 
buildings  and  contents  in  as  good  shape  as  they  find  them. 
Where  parties  use  these  camps,  especial  care  should  be  taken 
to  extinguish  all  fires  upon  leaving. 

Above  the  Falls  there  is  smooth  water  to  the  Narrows,  ten 
miles ;  the  river  averages  from  six  to  ten  rods  in  width.  It 
is  deep  and  black,  an  aspect  enhanced  by  the  fir  forest  on 
either  bank,  dark  green,  sombre,  and  profoundly  quiet.  The 
most  noticeable  feature  about  the  stream  is  its  silence.  The 
current  creeps  on  steadily,  and  in  some  places  is  so  swift  as 
to  moderate  the  speed  of  the  steamer.  The  crooks  and  bends 
are  numerous.  The  peaks  of  moderately  high  mountains  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  valley  are  from  time  to  time  to  be 
seen  over  the  fir-tops.  Aziscohos  is  now  before  you,  and 
then  behind,  according  to  the  crooks  and  turns  of  the  river; 
then  to  the  left  and  right.  A  tall,  dark  hill,  known  as 
Emery's  Misery,  plaj^s  similar  tricks.  Beaver  Hill,  a  iDine- 
clad  ridge  to  the  east  of  the  valley,  is  also  noticeable. 

There  are  many  excellent  camping-places  to  be  met  with 
along;  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  one  can  make  a  choice. 


2G2  FAKR.\Jl'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Wood  and  water,  the  great  requisites  for  camp  life,  are 
plenty  at  every  point. 

Duclis,  partridges,  and  other  game  are  to  be  met  with 
along  the  river,  and,  taken  in  addition  to  the  trout,  will  keep 
the  larder  well  supplied. 

Two  miles  above  the  Falls  you  pass  Beaver  Brook  on  your 
right, — a  good  fishing  i:)oint.  A  half  hour  spent  here  will 
give  you  a  good  mess  of  trout.  The  next  fishing-places  are 
Parker  Hill  Pond  Eddy,  four  miles  from  the  Falls,  and  Bog 
Brook,  which  comes  in  on  the  left,  five  miles.  The  Xarrows 
is  also  a  good  point  for  fishing.  The  current  in  the  Narrows 
is  very  swift,  but  the  steamer  has  no  trouble  in  stemming  it. 
The  stream  here  is  not  more  than  twenty  feet  wide,  with  a 
high  ledge  on  each  side,  and  through  this  narrow  channel 
the  current  runs  like  a  mill-sluice. 

Five  miles  above  the  Narrows  you  reach  Hunter's  Camp,  a 
good  fishing-point,  and  a  mile  beyond  this  you  pass  the 
Lower  Metallak  Pond,  a  pretty  little  expanse  opening  into 
the  IMagalloway  by  a  broad  outlet  on  the  west  side.  There 
are  two  Metallak  Ponds.  The  upper  one  is  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river,  and  is  not  in  sight  from  it. 

Four  miles  farther  up,  and  you  emerge  from  the  evergreen 
forest,  and  reach  the  Meadows,  which  extend  for  twelve 
miles  along  the  banks,  and  are  of  themselves  worth  a  visit. 
Scattered  over  this  land  are  some  of  the  finest  elm-trees  you 
ever  saw.  Through  the  Meadows  the  current  is  very  swift, 
and  the  stream  more  crooked,  if  possible,  than  below. 
Pound  wood-berries  are  very  thick  in  this  locality,  and  it  is 
asserted  by  men  who  have  logged  in  this  region  that  robins 
often  pass  the  winter  here,  living  on  the  berries.  The  Upper 
]Metallak  Pond  is  about  half  way  through  the  Meadows.  A 
short  distance  belosv  the  Upper  Metallak  Pond  are  some  lum- 
bermen's camps  which  are  frequently  used  by  parties  camp- 
ing out.  There  is  good  fishing  near  both  the  ponds,  and  at 
each  end  of  the  Narrows. 

Lincoln  Pond,  two  miles  long  and  one  mile  v>ide,  is  a  fine 
sheet  of  water  some  three  miles  from  the  river.  It  is  sur- 
rounded entirelj'  by  heavy  forests,  and  the  locality  is  one  of 


THE  AN^DROSCOGGm  LAIvES.  263 

the  prettiest  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  State, 
and  is  very  attractive  to  either  tourists  or  sportsmen.  The 
pond  is  well  stocked  with  the  spotted  brook  trout,  running 
in  weight  from  a  few  ounces  to  several  pounds ;  bait-fishing 
is  good  here  in  May  and  June,  and  fly-fishing  the  balance  of 
the  season.  Most  kinds  of  game  that  inhabit  the  northern 
woods  can  be  met  with  in  the  vicinity  of  Lincoln  Pond,  and 
the  larger  animals,  such  as  deer,  moose,  and  caribou,  are  fre- 
quently shot  each  year  upon  its  shores.  There  is  a  camp  at 
the  pond  that  sportsmen  can  use,  but  if  you  want  a  boat, 
and  you  will  find  one  very  handy  there,  you  will  have  to 
carry  one  in.  If  you  carry  a  tent,  and  prefer  living  in  it  to 
living  in  a  log  hut,  you  will  find  plenty  of  very  pleasant 
camping  sites  all  around  the  shores  of  this  lovely  little  sheet 
of  water.  A  spotted  trail  runs  from  the  Upper  Metallak 
directly  to  Lincoln  Pond. 

Leaving  the  Meadows  behind  the  steamer  once  more  enters 
the  fir  woods  and  shortly  arrives  at  the  Big  Island,  the  end 
of  steamboat  navigation.  From  this  pomt  a  new  road  is  to 
be  cut  a  short  distance  to  intersect  with  the  old  carry  road 
near  the  Forks. 

The  road  runs  from  Parmachenee  Landing,  on  the  main 
river,  a  short  distance  above  the  Forks,  to  Lake  Parmache- 
nee, which  is  three  miles  distant.  It  passes  near  Flint's  old 
camp,  which  having  been  deserted  for  several  years,  is  fast 
becoming  a  ruin,  and  Sunday  Pond,  lying  back  of  it.  Going 
towards  Parmachenee,  the  road  is  quite  steep  part  of  the 
way.  It  terminates  at  the  foot  of  the  Lake,  near  the  outlet, 
in  plain  sight  of  Danforth's  Camp.  A  cross-road  from  the 
main  carry  turns  ofi"  to  the  right  and  ends  at  the  dam ;  and 
here  you  begin  your  trip  on  the  lake. 

Leaving  the  gorge,  you  pull  up  the  outlet  above  the  dam, 
passing  Black  Cat  Brook,  that  empties  into  the  main  stream 
from  between  two  hills  on  the  east  side.  It  is  said  there  are 
beaver  in  this  stream,  but  we  cannot  vouch  for  them.  From 
the  dam  to  the  lake  proper,  at  Loon  Point,  is  about  a 
mile. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  outlet,  a  forest  fire  has  killed  the 


264  FAIUIAirS  ILLUSTIIATED  GUIDE  TO 


growth  far  up  the  ridge,  and  the  dead  trunks  have  fallen  in 
every  direction. 

Near  the  hike  the  outlet  bends  sharply  to  the  west,  around 
a  bushy  point.  Doubling  this,  the  lake  in  all  its  beauty  lies 
spread  out  before  you,  and  it  certainly  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  sheets  of  water  I  have  ever  seen. 

It  is  not  so  large  as  Mooselucmaguntic,  Umbagog,  or  per- 
haps a  score  of  others ;  but  it  is  prettier  than  them  all.  Its 
entire  length  is  not  more  than  three  miles ;  and  its  greatest 
breadth,  from  the  mouth  of  Moose  Brook  on  the  east  shore, 
to  the  foot  of  Bose-Buck  Cove  at  the  southwest  corner,  is 
not  over  two  miles. 

Most  of  the  main  lakes  are  long  and  narrow ;  Parmache- 
nee  is  an  exception.  It  fills  a  natural  basin,  walled  about  by 
hiofh-wooded  hills,  some  of  which  are  mountains  of  note. 
Bose-Buck,  at  the  foot  of  the  cove  of  the  same  name,  is  one 
of  the  finest  cone-shaped  peaks  in  New  England. 

Two  hunters,  with  their  dog  Bose,  were  skirting  the  lake, 
— as  the  story  runs.  For  some  days  they  had  shot  nothing, 
and  were  suflering  for  food.  As  they  passed  the  foot  of  the 
cove,  Bose  started  a  buck,  which  ran  directly  up  the  side  of 
the  mountain,  till  the  dog  overtook  and  pulled  it  down.  So 
they  named  the  peak  Base's  Buck. 

In  the  north-east,  too,  a  very  high  blue  mountain  is  visible 
over  the  nearer  peaks.  This  is  one  of  the  Boundarj'-  Moun- 
tains. Over  all  the  hills  which  border  the  lake  shores  a 
heavy  mixed  growth  comes  down  to  the  water's  edge. 

On  the  west  side,  above  the  cove,  there  is  a  gradual  slope 
leading  up  from  the  shore  for  a  mile  to  the  height  of  land. 

There  are  no  islands  in  the  lower  part  of  the  lake.  Tow- 
ards the  northern  end,  and  above  Indian  Field  Point,  there  is 
a  chain  of  three  wooded  islets  extending  down  in  a  line ;  and 
above  tliese  there  are  numerous  curious  floating  islands,  some 
of  an  acre  in  extent,  which  rise  and  fall  with  the  lake  surface. 
An  hour's  rowing  will  bring  you  up  to  Indian  Point,  which 
from  the  south  side  seems  a  part  of  the  north  shore,  but 
which  in  reality  separates  the  lake  from  a  roomy  expanse  of 
a  square  mile  or  more,  known  as  Indian  Cove. 


HEAD  OF  A   MAINE  MOOSE. 


266  FARRARS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 


Passing  between  the  second  and  third  of  the  wooded 
islands,  you  enter  the  inlet  where  the  Magalloway  enters  the 
lake.  Following  the  Magalloway  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
you  reach  the  site  of  Cleveland's  lower  camp,  of  which  there 
are  only  a  few  ruins.  This  is  a  good  i^lace  to  establish  your 
head- quarters,  although  of  course  there  are  plenty  of  other 
places  where  you  may  camp  if  you  choose.  A  mile  and  a 
half  above  here  are  Little  Boy's  Falls. 

Although  most  of  the  ponds  in  the  vicinity  of  Little  Boy's 
Falls  furnish  good  sport  to  anglers,  we  would  speak  particu- 
larly of  Duck  Pond  and  Rump  Pond.  The  latter  is  five  miles 
above  the  falls,  while  Duck  Pond  is  still  nearer.  Small  trout 
are  also  very  plenty  in  all  the  ponds  throughout  this  section. 
A  spotted  trail  over  an  old  "tote  road"  runs  from  near 
Little  Boy's  Falls  across  the  forest  to  the  Second  Connecti- 
cut Lake,  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  the  road  being  plain 
enough  for  any  person  to  follow.  A  small  camp  has  been 
built  on  this  carry,  about  half-way  across,  and  may  be  used 
by  parties  wishing  to  stop  on  the  road  over  night.  It  is 
simply  a  shelter,  and  those  availing  themselves  of  its  pro- 
tection will  have  to  find  their  own  supplies  and  do  their  own 
cooking. 

Camp  Caribou  is  located  on  Treat's  Island,  near  the  head 
of  Parmachenee  Lake.  The  proprietor,  John  Danf  orth,  is  one 
of  the  best  guides  in  the  region.  As  Mr.  Danforth  is  away 
from  the  camp  the  most  of  the  time,  guiding  difierent  par- 
ties, he  employs  able  assistants  to  manage  the  establishment, 
which  they  do  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  who  stop  with  them. 

The  hotel  consists  of  four  buildings,  one  being  four  stories 
higli.  The  difierent  camps  contain  a  kitchen,  dining-room, 
ladies'  sitting-room,  gentleman's  sitting  and  smoking-room, 
single  and  double  sleeping-rooms,  etc.  All  the  buildings 
were  constructed  by  Mr.  Danforth,  as  well  as  the  furniture 
used  in  them,  and  are  as  neat  specimens  of  wood-work  as 
you  will  find  anywhere ;  they  stand  there  in  the  northern 
wilderness,  miles  from  civilization,  a  monument  of  his  en- 
ergy, perseverance,  and  skill.  ]\Ir.  Danforth  has  an  embryo 
museum,  containing  already  quite  a  large  number  of  curiosi- 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  267 

ties,  in  one  of  his  camps,  that  is  always  open  for  the  inspec- 
tion of  guests.    Additions  are  constantly  being  made  to  it. 

Camp  Caribou  has  good  accommodations  for  fifty  guests. 
The  terms  for  sportsmen  are  $2.00  per  day,  and  $1.50  for 
guides. 

As  Mr.  Danforth  makes  his  home  at  his  camp  all  the  year 
round,  he  has  spent  some  of  his  leisure  time  in  winter  in 
building  a  number  of  small  camps,  now  numbering  eight,  on 
different  ponds  and  streams,  in  the  vicinity  of  Parmachenee, 
and  the  head-waters  of  the  Magalloway.  Some  of  them  are 
within  a  few  hours'  travel  of  this  hotel;  others,  a  day's 
tramp  or  more  away.  They  are  all  furnished  with  an  ordi- 
nary camp  kit,  and  are  for  the  exclusive  use  of  Mr.  Dan- 
forth's  guests.  John  keeps  a  large  and  varied  quantity  of 
supplies  at  Camp  Caribou,  and  can  furnish  stores  and 
blankets  to  camping-parties  who  need  them.  He  also  fur- 
nishes boats  and  guides. 

The  following  are  the  distances  from  Camp  Caribou  to 
some  of  the  hunting-grounds  and  fishing-points  in  the  vicini- 
ty :  Moose  Brook,  34  mile ;  Otter  Pond,  2  miles ;  Long  Pond, 
2  miles ;  Big  Eddy,  3}-^  miles ;  Little  Magalloway,  4  miles ; 
Little  Boy's  Falls,  2  miles ;  Otter  Creek,  3  miles ;  Outlet,  1 
mile ;  Inlet,  ^  mile ;  Hardscrabble,  ^  mile ;  Rump  Pond,  8 
miles ;  Arnold's  Bog,  12  miles. 

September  is  the  best  time  to  visit  this  lake,  as  then  the 
trout-fishing  is  excellent.  Game  of  all  kinds  is  plenty  here, 
and  it  is  not  promising  our  readers  too  much  to  say,  that  if 
they  are  ordinary  good  hunters  they  may  bring  back  a  deer, 
and  even  a  moose. 

A  party  composed  of  four  persons  and  a  guide,  which  is  as 
large  as  any  party  should  be,  can  make  the  trip  from  Boston 
to  Parmachenee  and  return,  being  absent  from  the  city  three 
weeks,  at  an  expense  of  $50.00  each.  This  would  be  suf- 
ficient to  cover  the  cost  of  the  guide's  services,  $2.50  per  day. 

The  altitude  of  Parmachenee  Lake  is  not  far  from  2,500 
feet ;  the  air  is  clear  and  bracing,  and  will  give  a  dyspeptic 
individual  an  appetite  that  will  astonish  him,  and  he  can 
satisfy  the  cravings  of  his  stomach  without  fear  of  paying  a 


2G8 


FA KK All's  ILLUSTILVTED  GLIDE  TO 


penalty  afterwards,  for  the  exercise  about  the  woods  ^^  ill 
keep  his  digestive  organs  in  good  order.  Life  in  a  tent  for 
tliree  weeks  on  the  romantic  shores  of  Parniachenee  will  do 
more  good  for  him  than  all  the  doctors  in  Boston  could  in 
three  years.  Nature  is  a  skilful  physician,  and  to  the  over- 
worked business  man,  and  all  others  who  feel  a  restless  long- 
ing for  change,  we  say,  start  for  the  Maine  woods,  leaving 
all  care  behind  you,  and,  our  word  for  it,  you  will  come  back 
to  the  city  a  healthier  and  better  man.  The  '"proof  of  the 
pudding  is  in  the  eating,"  and,  if  you  don't  believe  us,  try  it. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 


J[ntt0uai;.  513^^^^^^  ^^  ^  ^mitmci;  T|c$0rt. 


!HE  village  of  Aiidover,  Maine,  one  of  the  love- 
liest in  Xew  England,  although  comparatively 
■^  unknown  until  within  a  few  years,  to  the  great 
mass  of  tourists  and  pleasure-seekers,  is  now 
universally  conceded  to  be  one  of  the  most  desirable  places 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  which  to  spend  the  summer. 
It  is  situated  in  Oxford  County,  twenty-one  miles  from  Bry- 
ant's Pond,  a  station  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  with 
which  place  it  is  connected  by  a  first-class  line  of  daily 
stages,  owned  bj^  A.  S.  Tuttle  &  Son. 

Its  altitude,  some  500  feet  above  the  sea,  is  about  the  same 
as  that  of  Xorth  Conway,  X.  H.,  to  which  place  it  bears  a 
strong  resemblance.  Indeed,  so  near  alike  is  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  the  two  places,  that  the  traveler  who  is  familiar 
with  the  landscape  of  Xorth  Conway  will  at  once,  upon  first 
visiting  Andover,  remark  npon  the  strong  likeness  between 
the  two  villages.  We  present  our  readers  with  an  engraving 
showing  the  village  from  a  hill  on  the  Lake  Road,  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Ellis  River. 

Like  Xorth  Conway,  Andover  is  surrounded  by  mountain 
ranges,  among  which  are  some  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the 
State.  But  at  Andover  one  is  more  likely  to  be  impressed 
with  the  mountain  scenery  than  at  Xorth  Conway,  from  the 
fact  that  the  mountains  lie  a  little  farther  away ;  thus  adding 
to  the  delicate  beauty  of  their  outline,  and  concealing  in  part 
that  rugged  grandeur  which  a  nearer  approach  reveals. 

"Tis  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view," 

and  the  mountains  are  just  far  enough  away  to  impress   one 

favorably  with  their  height  and  general  appearance,   while 

269 


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THE  ANDROSCOGGIN"  LAIvES.  271 

giving  you  a  longing  desire  to  become  more  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  their  beauties. 

The  Ellis  River  is  to  Andover  what  the  Saco  is  to  North 
Conwaj^,  and  adds  largely  to  the  beauty  of  the  landscape,  as 
it  flows  through  a  charming  intervale,  twisting  and  turning, 
its  clear  and  laughing  waters  flashing  like  silver  in  the  sun- 
light, now  dancing  merrily  through  some  broad  meadow,  and 
anon  quietly  creeping  through  some  sequestered  nook,  until 
at  length  it  is  lost  in  the  more  turbid  waters  of  the  Andro- 
scoggin, into  which  stream  it  empties  near  the  ferry  at  Rum- 
ford. 

Andover  is  easily  accessible  from  Boston,  it  being  but  ten 
hours'  travel  by  rail  and  stage  between  the  two  places.  The 
stage  ride  from  Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover  is  a  pleasing  ex- 
perience, long  to  be  remembered,  as  the  road,  instead  of 
being  a  succession  of  hills,  as  in  the  White  Mountain  region, 
is  level  the  entire  distance,  and  follows  the  valleys  of  the 
Androscoggin  and  Ellis  Rivers  the  whole  way,  presenting  to 
the  traveler  some  of  the  most  charming  views  to  be  met  with 
in  New  England.  Andover  is  connected  with  the  outside 
world  by  both  mail  and  telephone.  The  telephone  oflice  is 
but  a  few  steps  from  the  hotels.  The  post-oflice  is  in  the 
same  building.  Letters  mailed  in  Andover  in  the  morning 
reach  Boston  on  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  and  New  York 
the  next  morning. 

There  are  two  excellent  hotels  in  the  village,  known  as  the 
Andover  House  and  French's  Hotel,  with  accommodations 
for  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 

A  good  stable  is  connected  with  each  of  the  hotels,  where 
one  can  obtain  teams  at  very  reasonable  prices.  In  this  con- 
nection we  must  speak  of  the  Buckboards,  or  Springboards, 
which  are  an  institution  in  this  place,  and  which  are  the 
easiest  and  most  comfortable  teams  for  mountain  riding  that 
the  writer  has  ever  met  with.  This  vehicle  is  a  universal 
favorite  with  the  ladies,  who,  after  giving  it  one  trial,  can 
scarcely  be  persuaded  to  ride  in  anything  else. 

There  are  several  private  boarding-houses  in  Andover,  with 
accommodations  for  from  twelve  to  thirty  persons.    Among 


272  FARRAPt'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

those  best  known  are  Cushman's,  with  accommodations  for 
thirty ;  Clark's,  twelve ;  Poor's,  twenty. 

There  is  an  apothecary,  dry  and  fancy  goods,  millinery, 
and  several  grocery  stores  in  the  place,  also  carriage  and 
blacksmith  shops,  as  well  as  several  starch,  grist,  and  Imn- 
ber  mills.  The  Andover  Trotting  Park  is  one  of  the  institu- 
tions of  the  village,  and  several  very  fine  races  have  been 
trotted  there.  It  is  situated  near  the  main  street  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  hotels,  and  has  a  half-mile  track. 

The  educational  facilities  for  such  a  place  as  this  are  un- 
usually good,  there  being  four  school  districts,  with  five 
school-houses,  which  are  kept  open  for  school  nine  months 
m  the  year. 

There  are  two  religious  societies,  both  occupying  comfort- 
able churches,  the  Congregationalist  and  Methodist. 

A  Town  Hall,  capable  of  seating  three  hundred  people,  is 
used  for  XDolitical  meetings  and  social  entertainments.  The 
churches,  stores,  post  and  telephone  oflioc-s  and  hall,  are 
within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  hotels,  making  it  very  conven- 
ient for  guests  to  visit  them  whether  the  weather  be  clear  or 
stormy. 

V/ithin  the  last  three  years  several  gentlemen,  who  have 
long  been  visitors  to  Andover,  have  built  very  pretty  modern 
cottages  near  the  centre  of  the  village,  and  now  spend  the 
summer  in  this  quiet  town  among  the  mountains.  Their  ex- 
ample will  no  doubt  be  followed  by  others,  until  Andover 
will  have  during  the  summer  quite  a  community  of  cottagers. 

Besides  being  a  most  delightful  retreat  for  a  person  to 
spend  a  vacation,  or  to  linger  through  a  summer,  Andover  is 
one  of  the  most  favorable  places  for  a  person  to  stop  who  is 
any  way  afflicted  with  catarrhal  complaints.  Its  invigorat- 
ing and  health-giving  mountain  air  is  a  sure  and  speedy  cure 
for 

Rose  Cold  and  Hay  Fever, 

and  the  ordinary  catarrh  yields  readily  to  its  influences.    The 
writer  is  acquainted  with  several  who  visit  this  place   every 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES. 


27:3 


summer,  for  the  relief  aflbrded  them  from  the  above   com- 
plaints. 

In  the  number  of  its  beautiful  drives  Andoverfar  surpasses 
many  of  the  older  sunnner  resorts,  and  we  think  it  can 
favorably  compare  with  any  other  town  in  the  mountains  for 
the  number  of  its  places  of  interest.  Of  these  we  shall  now 
speak,  commencing  with  those  easily  reached  from  the  hotels 
at  the  "Corner." 


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CHAPTER  XIX. 


|)riuc$    ^rniinii    ^uhcuoji* 


To  Roxbury    Pond,    Black   Brook   Notch, 
White  Cap  Mountain,  and 
Farmer's  Hill. 

E  doiil)t  if  ill  Xew  Eno-land  there  is  a  more 


beautiful  expanse  of  water  than  this 
lovely  pond.  It  is  situated  in  tlie  town 
of  Roxbury,  five  miles  distant  from  the 
village  of  Andover,  on  the  road  leading 
to  Mexico  and  Dixfield,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Ellis  River. 
It  is  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  by  a  mile  Avide,  and  contains  two 
islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  about  four  acres  in  extent, 
and  is  known  as  I.  C.  Island.  3Ir.  John  A.  French,  of  And- 
over has  built  a  small  summer  house  on  the  Island,  for  the 
entertainment  of  visitors,  and  placed  several  boats  on  the 
pond,  which  may  be  hired  at  low  prices.  About  a  third  of 
the  shore  around  the  pond  consists  of  a  splendid  beach  of 
hard  and  white  sand,  furnishing  fine  facilities  for  bathing. 
The  pond  is  noted  for  its  pickerel  fishing,  and  some  of  the 
largest  specimens  of  this  fish  we  have  ever  seen  have  been 
caught  in  its  waters.  Mr.  French  has  also  stocked  it  with 
black  bass,  which  will  add  to  its  value  with  those  fond  of 
fishing.  In  several  parts  of  it  water-lilies  grow  luxuriantly. 
The  pond  is  surrounded  by  high  wooded  hills,  with  farms  on 
the  cleared  slopes,  and  is  as  pretty  a  sheet  of  water  as  one 
would  wish  to  see.  Half  a  day  is  sufficient  to  visit  the  pond, 
althouo-h  we  are  confident  that  vou  will  not  be  contented 
with  one  drive  in  that  direction. 


Black  Brook  Notch 


is  on  the  lake  road,  nine  miles  from  Andover  Corner  and  four 


•J  75 


276  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


from  Smith's  Mill.  Here  the  Sawyer  Mountain  and  Blue 
Mountain  meet,  leaving  a  passage  just  wide  enough  between 
their  granite  sides  for  one  team  to  pass  through.  It  is  a 
wild-looking  place,  and  numerous  slides  that  have  occurred 
here  show  how  the  rugged  mountain  has  succumbed  to  the 
action  of  the  frost-king.  To  add  to  the  desolation  of  the 
place,  a  fire  run  through  here  a  few  years  ago,  leaving  the 
bleached  rocks  bare,  and  the  blackened  trunks  of  the  trees 
standing  like  statues  in  armor  in  some  deserted  castle.  Many 
of  the  trees  have  fallen,  and  lay  piled  in  all  shapes  and  di- 
rections, forming  an  almost  impassable  barrier  to  any  one  at- 
tempting to  leave  the  road.  From  the  top  of  Cedar  Hill  the 
best  view  of  the  Notch  is  obtained.  A  large  cliff  on  the  side 
of  Sawyer  Mountain  is  pointed  out  to  you  as  a  place  where 
bears  are  frequently  seen.  Through  this  deep  mountain 
gorge  the  waters  of  Black  Brook  roar  and  tumble,  for  miles 
beyond.  Across  the  brook  at  this  place  a  sluice  dam  has 
been  built,  to  hold  back  the  water  in  spring  so  that  logs  may 
be  run  down  the  stream.  Up  and  down  the  brook,  for  sev- 
eral miles  in  this  vicinity,  the  trout-fishing  is  excellent,  a 
catch  of  five  hundred  not  being  considered  an  unusual  day's 
work.  There  was  one  week  in  June,  1877,  when  it  was  esti- 
mated that  a  thousand  trout  a  day  were  taken  out  of  this 
stream,  and  still  there  were  plenty  left. 

White  Cap. 
This  mountain  is  one  of  the  prominent  features  of  the 
landscape  about  Andover,  and  is  seven  miles  south-east  from 
the  village.  There  is  a  good  carriage  road  to  within  a  mile 
of  the  top,  and  the  drive  hither  is  very  pleasant ;  its  summits 
afford  some  excellent  views  of  the  surrounding  country,  that 
up  and  down  the  Ellis  River  Valley,  being  unusually  fine. 
Portland  is  visible  from  it  on  a  fair  day,  there  being  no  high 
hills  intervening  to  obstruct  the  view.  It  is  largely  resorted 
to  in  the  fall,  by  people  living  in  the  vicinity,  to  gather  blue- 
berries, which  fruit  grows  in  astonishing  quantities   on  its 

bare,  round  summit. 

Farmer's  Hill, 

another  sightly  elevation,  lies  north-east  from  Andover  Cor- 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIOES.  277 

ner,  a  distance  of  four  miles.  The  road  runs  through  a 
pleasant  farming  country,  and  the  view  to  be  obtained  from 
its  top  is  thought  by  some  to  be  equal  to  that  from  White 
Cap.  The  whole  valley  of  the  Ellis  River,  and  the  village  of 
Andover  lie  spread  out  like  a  map  to  the  west,  while  in  the 
east  a  startling  array  of  mountains,  some  of  great  height, 
rise  before  you,  forming  a  pleasing  landscape  for  the  eye  to 
linger  on.    The  excursion  may  be  easily  made  in  half  a  day. 

A  great  many  hops  are  raised  yearly  in  this  vicinity,  and 
during  the  picking  season  the  fields  are  alive  with  girls, 
whose  nimble  fingers  transfer  the  hops  from  the  poles  to  the 
baskets.  During  the  hop-picking  there  is  at  least  one  dance 
a  week,  in  some  farmer's  barn,  and  the  lads  and  lasses  have 
gay  times.  A  hop-picking  without  an  occasional  dance 
would  be  decidedly  unfashionable. 

Sawyer's  Notch 

is  another  gap  in  the  mountains,  similar  in  character  to  Black 
Brook  Notch,  although  jDcrhaps  not  so  well  worth  a  visit  as 
the  latter  place.  Still  the  scenery  here  is  far  from  being 
tame,  and  the  Sawyer  Brook,  which  runs  through  the  gorge, 
is  an  excellent  jDlace  for  trout,  and  is  annually  resorted  to  by 
fishermen  who  have  become  acquainted  with  its  merits.  A 
colony  of  beavers  located  here  a  few  years  ago,  and  built  a 
dam  across  the  stream,  which  is  quite  a  curiosity.  It  is  six 
miles  from  the  hotels,  over  a  good  road,  and  can  be  easily 
visited  in  the  forenoon  or  afternoon. 

A  path  starts  from  near  the  head  of  the  Notch,  that  leads 
to  C  Pond,  about  four  miles  beyond.  This  sheet  of  water, 
although  not  very  large,  is  mcII  stocked  with  trout,  and  is 
charmingly  located  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  It  is  the 
head  waters  of  the  Dead  Cambridge  River.  The  scenery 
about  it  is  wild  and  romantic.  "C  Pond  Blufi","  so  called, 
is  an  immense  ledge  of  rock,  that  overhangs  the  upper  end 
of  this  miniature  lake.  It  is  about  three  miles  from  Lake- 
view  Cottage  at  the  South  Arm  of  Lake  Welokennebacook  to 
this  loond. 


Upper  Fall,   Catakact  Brook,   A.ndovlr,  Me. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


nttrfaib   nnh   6n$tnht$. 


The  Cataracts,   Upper  and  Lower  Falls,  Cascade,    Basin 

and  Flume. 

VERY  pleasant  ride  is  the  "DRHT:  AROUXD 
THE  SQUARE,"— a  distance  of  about  eiglit 
^j»i5yag|-j.  -1^  miles.     Leavino*  the  hotels,  you  drive  down  the 

I  a  stage  road,  which  is  the  principal  street  in  the  village, 
and  some  eighty  feet  wide,  to  South  Andover ;  and,  turning 
to  the  left,  you  cross  the  Ellis  River,  by  a  covered  bridge, 
obtaining  a  magnificent  view  of  the  broad  meadows,  which 
stretch  north  for  several  miles,  and  again  turning  to  the  left, 
follow  the  Ellis  up,  driving  as  far  as  the  covered  bridge,  at 
the  "Corner,"  where  you  again  cross  the  river,  and  return  to 
the  hotels. 

Between  eight  and  ten  in  the  morning,  while  the  early 
freshness  of  the  day  is  upon  the  hills  and  valleys,  or  after 
four  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  sun  is  beginning  slowly  to 
decline,  and  the  shadows  to  fall  softly  on  the  mountains,  is 
by  far  the  prettiest  time  to  take  this  drive. 

Five  miles  from  the  village,  on  the  lake  road,  are  the 
Devil's  Den,  Hermit  Falls,  and  Silver  Ripple  Cascade,  which 
Ave  have  given  a  full  description  of  in  Chapter  VI. ;  it  is 
therefore  unnecessary  to  repeat  it  here.  Suffice  it  to  say  that 
there  is  no  more  beautiful  excursion  to  l>e  made  in  the  vicin- 
itv  of  Andover  than  this,  and  an  entire  dav  should  be  de- 
voted  to  it,  which  can  easily  be  done  by  making  a  picnic 
dinner  one  of  the  features  of  the  excursion. 

We  will  now  speak  of 

The  Cataracts, 

a  most  charming  series  of  falls  and  cascades,  whose  beauties 

cannot  be  too  highlv  praised.     Thev  are  situated  on  Frye's 

279 


280  FARRARS  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Brook,  or  the  Cataract  Brook,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  about 
five  miles  from  the  "Corner."  The  road  follows  Old  Maid 
Brook  for  most  of  the  way,  and  runs  through  woods  that 
furnish  a  most  agreeable  shade  from  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun. 
After  leaving  the  village  the  houses  are  few  and  far  between, 
and  the  road  is  very  quiet.  The  ride  is  not  surpassed  by  any 
in  the  vicinity  of  Andover,  and  is  a  favorite  one  with  all 
visitors  to  the  place. 

Turning  from  the  road  we  enter  a  clearing,  where  the  team 
is  left,  and  a  lovely  walk  of  half  a  mile  up  the  mountain 
side,  which  is  covered  with  a  varied  growth  of  hard  and  soft 
wood,  brings  you  to  the  first  or 

Lower  Fall. 

This  partakes  somewhat  of  the  character  of  "Artist's  Fall" 
at  Xorth  Conway,  but  is  far  prettier.  The  volume  of  water 
at  any  season  of  the  year  is  also  larger.  The  water  flows 
over  a  dark  cliff,  and  the  sides  of  the  brook,  being  semicir- 
cular in  shape,  furnish  the  visitor  with  a  good  view  from 
any  direction. 
A  few  rods  above  is  the 

Upper  Fall, 

an  engraving  of  which  we  present  to  our  readers.  The 
water  here  comes  down  in  two  falls,  the  whole  height  being 
about  sixty  feet.  The  entire  bed  of  the  stream  where  the 
water  makes  its  first  leap  is  solid  rock,  and  at  the  bottom  of 
the  first  half  of  the  fall  is  a  round  basin  in  the  rock,  of  un- 
fathomable depth,  according  to  local  tradition.  The  water 
and  frost  have  played  sad  havoc  with  the  granite  walls  of 
the  stream  at  this  place,  and  immense  boulders  have  fallen 
off  from  the  upper  part  of  the  cliff,  and  lie  in  the  stream  at 
the  base  of  the  second  fall. 

There  are  thick  woods  here  on  each  side,  and  the  place  has 
an  indescribable  charm,  that  will  cause  one  to  linger  as  if 
unable  to  tear  himself  away  from  its  beautiful  scenery.  It 
would  furnish  a  fitting  abode  for  a  sylvan  goddess,  and  we 
can  almost  imagine  some  Diana  to  appear  and  welcome  us. 

Leaving  this  sequestered  retreat,  we  follow  the  stream  up 


> 

O 

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a 
O 


o 
o 


"if, 
o 
o 


282  FARRAKS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

the  mountain  side  for  half  a  mile  farther,  the  hare  and 
scarred  summit  of  Old  Bald  Pate  frowning  down  upon  us, 
as  if  questioning  our  right  to  invade  his  domain,  and  reach 
one  of  the  most  lovely  places  to  be  found  on  this  most  beau- 
tiful stream.  Here  the  mountain  torrent  pours  over  the 
whitest  of  granite  rock,  worn  smooth  as  glass  from  the  action 
of  the  water,  forming  a  series  of  delightful  cascades,  known 

as  the 

Sylvan  Cascades. 

Here  the  sunlight  streams  in,  causing  the  water  to  sparkle 
like  diamonds,  and  furnishing  a  strong  comparison  to  the 
darkness  of  the  Flume  above.  There  are  basins  worn  in  the 
solid  rock  here,  that  for  beauty  of  shape  and  finish  would 
put  to  shame  any  work  of  art.  One  can  sit  here  for  hours 
feasting  the  eye  on  the  exquisite  beauties  of  the  place,  the 
ear  enchanted  by  the  gentle  murmur  of  the  rippling  waters. 

If  one  is  inclined  to  solitude  no  more  beautiful  si^ot  could 
be  found  in  which  to  indulge  in  pensive  mood,  for  here  you 
are  entirely  surrounded  by  nature.  The  murmuring  stream, 
i  the  granite  rocks,  the  dark  forest,  lit  up  a  little  by  the  deli- 
cate birch  and  silver  maple, — below,  the  valley  to  which  the 
torrent  hastens, — above,  the  frowning  peaks  of  mountains, 
and  over  all  the  clear  blue  sky, — majestic  canopy  of  earth. 

We  present  our  readers  with  an  engraving  made  from  a 
photograph  taken  at  this  spot. 

Less  than  an  eighth  of  a  mile  above  is  quite  a  wonder  of 
nature,  known  as 

The  Flume. 

Here,  for  several  hundred  feet  on  both  sides  of  the  brook, 
the  rocks  rise  to  a  height  of  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet,  the 
stream  flowing  along  the  bottom.  A  tree  has  been  felled  so 
as  to  fall  across  the  chasm,  affording  an  insecure  bridge  by 
which  to  cross.  The  width  varies  from  ten  to  twenty  feet. 
A  thick  growth  of  fir  and  pine  has  obtained  a  foothold  on 
each  side  of  the  cliff",  shutting  out  the  sun,  except  perhaps 
for  a  few  moments  at  noon,  when  it  is  directly  overhead. 
The  darkness  adds  to  the  solemn  appearance  of  the  place, 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  283 

and  you  gaze  with  feelings  of  awe  along  the  cavernous  sides 
of  the  frightful-looking  ravine  before  you, — 

"Through  the  narrow  rift 
Of  the  vast  rocks,  against  whose  rugged  feet 
Beats  the  mad.  torrent  with  perpetual  roar, 
Where  noonday  is  as  twilight,  and  the  winds 
Come  burdened  with  the  everlasting  rnoan 
Of  forests  and  of  far-off  waterfalls." 

We  present  our  readers  with  a  capital  engraving  of  the 
Flume  on  the  following  page. 

One  summer,  the  writer,  with  another  gentleman  from 
Boston,  followed  this  stream  nearly  to  its  source,  and  the 
places  mentioned  in  this  book  are  only  a  few  of  the  many 
that  are  to  be  found  along  its  banks.  It  is,  in  fact,  the  finest 
mountain  stream  we  have  ever  seen,  and  we  have  visited  a 
large  number.  Your  interest  is  enhanced,  and  new  beauties 
are  unfolded  at  every  step  of  your  advance,  and  an  entire 
day  may  be  most  profitably  and  agreeably  spent  in  exploring 
its  hidden  mysteries.  Any  lady  who  is  a  good  mouutain- 
climber  can  visit  all  the  special  places  of  interest  on  this 
stream  in  one  day,  if  pressed  for  time ;  but  of  course  more 
pleasure  could  be  derived  from  a  slower  examination. 

A  few  years  ago  a  gentleman  narrowly  escaped  from  a 
serious  accident  at  this  place.  He  was  crossing  the  flume  by 
means  of  the  tree  that  spanned  the  chasm,  and  had  reached 
the  middle  when  his  feet  slipped  and  down  he  came.  By 
good  luck  he  caught  at  the  tree,  and  held  on  until  his  com- 
panion rescued  him  from  his  perilous  situation.  At  either 
end  of  the  flume  one  can  cross  the  stream  without  danger. 

It  is  comparatively  easy  to  make  the  ascent  of  Bald  Pate 
Mountain  by  following  up  the  stream  and  branches,  as  they 
rise  very  near  the  summit.  If  this  route  does  not  present  as 
smooth  walking  as  the  path  through  the  woods,  it  has  the 
advantage  of  being  more  direct,  and,  consequently,  shorter, 
enabling  one  to  make  the  same  time  as  by  the  woodland 
path.  In  following  up  the  stream  keep  to  the  right-hand 
side.  Before  you  reach  the  head,  you  cross  three  branches 
that  empty  in  from  the  right. 


'^^'i^isr^f^^/f^- '    "'^ 


The  Flume,  Cataract  Brook,  Andover,  Me. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


I^nlh  yni^  ^tsnninhu 


The  Ascent,  and  View  from  its  Summit. 

IHIS  loft}^  peak  is  one  of  several  mountains 
that  lie  west  of  the  villaoe  of  Anclover.  and 
is  reached  from  the  same  place  as  the 
"Cataracts.'"  From  the  hotels  in  the  viHage  to 
the  smumit  it  is  nine  miles,  of  wliich  five  can 
he  done  in  a  team.  Leaving  the  road  at  the  Cataract  path, 
vou  connnence  the  ascent  of  the  mountain,  the  base  beino- 
thiclily  covered  with  woods.  A  ' 'blazed''  path  leads  to  the 
top,  but  it  is  very  blind,  and  if  you  have  not  had  considera- 
ble experience  in  woodcraft,  the  chances  are  ten  to  one  that 
vou  will  lose  it  before  reacliina;  tlie  summit.  It  is  safer,  and 
therefore,  more  preferable,  to  take  a  guide  with  you.  But, 
if  you  ''go  it  alone,"  and  lose  your  way,  climb  a  tree,  as  tlie 
summit  is  visible  from  tlie  top  of  any  reasonably  high  tree 
for  miles  around. 

Before  reaching  the  bare  ground,  you  go  through  a  thicket 
of  scrub  sjH-uce  that  is  evident h^  placed  there  to  try  a  man's 
patience.  If  you  don't  lose  it  before  you  struggle  through 
this  wicked  net-work  of  shrubbery,  you  must  be  a  saint.  For 
the  last  three-quarters  of  a  mile  the  mountain  is  bare  of 
trees,  but  is  covered  until  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the 
top  with  mountain-cranberries.  The  singular  bleak  and  bare 
appearance  of  the  top  of  this  mountain  is  no  doubt  what 
suggested  its  name,  to  those  who  live  on  the  east  side  of  it. 
Although  it  is  a  double-peaked  mountain,  of  the  saddle-back 
shaf)e,  but  one  peak  is  visible,  the  northern,  from  Andover. 
AAlien  viewed  from  the  Avest,  however,  anywhere  between 
Bethel  and  Lake  Umbagog,  it  shows  two  peaks,  and  is  known 

to  all  the  people  living  on  its  west  side  as   "Saddleback." 

285 


286  FARRAR-S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


Strangers  are  often  confounded  by  the  two  names.  Its  west- 
ern slopes  form  one  of  the  walls  of  Grafton  Notch.  Near  the 
northern  end  there  is  a  crevice  running  nearly  across  the 
mountain,  from  one  to  four  feet  wide,  and  from  ten  to  fifty 
feet  deep.  The  summit  commands  a  fine  view  in  every  di- 
rection, and  on  a  fair  day  many  of  the  lakes  are  plainly  to 
be  seen.  This  is  the  fourth  highest  mountain  in  Maine,  and 
cannot  be  far  from  three  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level. 
Like  Mount  Washington,  it  is  frequently  enveloped  in  clouds, 
and  snow  remains  on  it  some  seasons  until  late  in  July.  It 
is  a  hard  mountain  to  climb,  but,  once  on  top,  the  prospect 
amply  repays  you  for  your  labor  in  reaching  it.  It  will  take 
about  two  hours  to  make  the  ascent,  and  one  will  need  the 
better  part  of  the  day  to  make  the  trip  easily. 

One  summer,  the  writer,  accompanied  by  a  gentleman  who 
was  a  fellow-boarder  in  the  hotel,  made  the  ascent  under 
somewhat  unfavorable  circumstances. 

Learning  at  the  hotel  that  there  was  a  very  fine  view  to  be 
obtained  from  its  summit,  we  started  one  day  after  dinner  to 
climb  Old  Bald  Pate.  We  reached  the  clearing  at  the  base 
of  the  mountain  about  two  o'clock,  and  after  fastening  our 
horse,  started  up.  Taking  the  cataract  path,  we  went  up 
for  nearly  a  mile  without  difficulty.  Here  the  path  ended, 
and  we  began  to  look  for  the  blazed  trees.  We  missed  them, 
but  found  a  blazing  sun  that  was  rather  warm  for  mountain- 
climbing.  After  a  haK  hour  spent  in  useless  search,  we  con- 
cluded to  go  on,  and  travel  by  the  sun.  After  an  hour  of 
weary  climbing  we  had  reached  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
we  were  on,  and  found  we  had  lost  our  way.  My  companion 
climbed  a  spruce  tree,— he  was  a  real  spruce  young  fellow,— 
to  learn  our  position,  and,  upon  descending,  said  that  Bald 
Pate  lay  a  mile  or  more  to  the  left  of  us.  So  we  tramped  on, 
down  the  back  side  of  the  mountain  that  we  were  then  on, 
and  finally  saw  Bald  Pate  towering  a  mile  or  two  above  and 
beyond  us.  Taking  a  careful  look  around  to  get  the  lay  of 
the  land,  we  started  up  again.  The  woods  were  thick  and 
the  underbrush  troublesome,  but  w^e  persevered,  and  finally 
worked  our  way  up  and  through  the  lower  belt  of   forest, 


THE  AXDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  287 

and  came  out  amid  a  growth  of  scrub  trees  and  bushes,  with 
dead  cedars  and  pines,  killed  by  some  forest  fire,  strewn 
about  us  in  a  perfect  tangle.  The  hard  old  granite  face  of 
Bald  Pate  was  now  clearly  in  sight  of  us,  but  still  a  long 
way  otf.  We  were  tired  and  thirsty,  but  we  had  left  the 
hotel,  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  our  friends,  without  a  guide, 
intending  to  stand  upon  the  top  of  Old  Bald  Pate  without 
any  help,  and  we  meant  to  do  it.  So  upwards  we  struggled. 
It  was  with  a  feeling  of  thanksgiving  that  we  cleared  the 
fallen  trees,  and  stepped  out  on  the  barren  rocks,  where,  if 
locomotion  was  still  difficult,  we  were  not  comi^elled  to 
climb  or  jump  over  a  prostrate  tree  every  three  or  four  feet. 
A  strong  wind  was  blowing  across  the  mountain,  which  felt 
very  refreshing  to  our  heated  faces,  but  it  cooled  our  bodies 
so  rapidly  that  we  were  soon  glad  to  put  on  our  overcoats. 
We  were  now  really  sufiering  from  thirst,  and  upon  reaching 
the  extreme  summit  we  were  overjoyed  to  find  cool,  clear 
water  in  the  hollows  of  the  ledge,  which  at  that  moment 
appeared  like  nectar  to  us.  Lying  flat  upon  the  granite 
ledge,  we  drank  and  drank,  until  at  last  our  thirst  was  satis- 
fied. Not  until  then  did  we  begin  to  feast  our  eyes  upon  the 
glorious  view  which  was  spread  out  before  us  in  every  direc- 
tion. 

In  the  north  Half-Moon  Mountain,  Moose  Mountain,  and 
old  Aziscohos,  stood  out  against  the  sky.  To  the  north-west 
lay  Umbagog  and  the  Magallowaj^  Eiver,  Mount  Dustan  and 
the  Diamond  Peaks,  and  the  summits  east  of  Dixville  Notch. 
North-east  the  remainder  of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  were 
plainly  discernible,  their  waters  shining  like  gold  in  the  last 
rays  of  the  setting  sun.  The  Ellis  Valley  and  the  village  of 
Andover  formed  a  beautiful  picture  in  the  east,  and  south- 
east and  south-west  rose  the  peaks  of  Grafton  and  Bear  River 
Notch,  hiding  the  fair  village  of  Bethel  from  our  view. 
From  the  highest  point  of  the  mountain  we  counted  nearly  a 
hundred  other  peaks  surrounding  us  in  difierent  directions. 
On  the  extreme  height  of  the  summit  we  found  a  monument 
of  stones,  built  by  those  who  had  made  the  ascent  before  us, 
and  we  added  a  few  to  the  pile.    The  southern  peak,  the 


288  FAEEAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

lower  of  the  two,  about  a  mile  distant,  we  did  not  visit. 
The  presidential  range  of  the  White  Mountains  cannot  be 
seen  from  Bald  Pate.  Speckled  Mountain  forming  the  west- 
em  wall  of  Grafton  Notch  looms  up  some  five  hundred  feet 
above  it,  and  shuts  out  the  view  of  the  White  Hills. 

In  blueberry  time  this  mountain  is  a  popular  resort  for 
bears,  several  having  been  shot  here ;  but,  fortunately  for 
us,  we  did  not  run  across  any.  As  we  were  both  unarmed, 
the  bears  would  certainly  have  had  the  advantage  in  case 
they  chose  to  attack  us. 

The  clouds  had  now  begun  to  envelop  the  mountain,  and 
the  chilliness  of  air  had  increased  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
be  disagreeable,  even  with  our  overcoats  on.  It  was  seven 
o'clock,  and  high  time  we  should  be  moving.  So  we  started 
down,  and  as  soon  as  we  had  reached  the  belt  of  timber  be- 
gan to  look  for  the  blazed  path.  AYe  were  fortunate  enough 
to  find  it.  A  little  way  down  we  stopped  at  an  immense 
spring,  w^hich  is  quite  a  curiosity  in  itself,  and  had  a  drink 
of  its  cool  and  sparkling  waters.  We  had  been  told  of  this 
spring  at  the  hotel,  but  had  not  found  it  on  our  way  up. 
Our  thirst  satisfied,  we  continued  on  down  the  mountain, 
following  the  path  until  it  became  so  dark  we  could  not  see 
the  marks  on  the  trees,  and  then  we  went  at  random. 

Becoming  alarmed,  lest  we  should  go  too  far  out  of  our 
way,  we  struck  for  Cataract  Brook,  knowing  in  which  direc- 
tion it  lay,  and  soon  reached  it.  Following  the  bed  of  the 
stream  we  made  better  progress,  because  the  rocks  had  been 
washed  white  by  the  freshets,  and  we  could  see  where  to 
step.  Beaching  the  Upper  Cataract  Fall,  we  were  compelled 
to  take  to  the  woods  again.  And  now  the  trouble  com- 
menced; for  by  this  time  it  had  grown  so  dark  that  you 
could  not  see  your  hand  before  you,  and  the  trees  grew  so 
thick  together  that  we  could  not  see  the  sky.  Guided  by  the 
sound  of  the  brook,  we  worked  our  way  along,  groping  and 
stumbling,  now  uttering  an  exclamation  of  disgust,  and  then 
laughing  heartily  as  the  ludicrousness  of  the  situation  forced 
itself  upon  us.  Finallj^,  in  climbing  over  a  tree  I  disturbed  a 
W£isp's  nest,  and  for  a  moment  after  I  felt  as  if  somebody 


THE  AXDEOSCOGGIX  LAKES.  289 


was  using  me  for  a  pin-cushion.  We  moved  away  from  that 
particular  spot  in  a  hurrj^,  although  at  the  imminent  risk  of 
breaking  our  necks  as  we  tumbled  over  stumps,  loose  rocks 
and  fallen  trees,  and  when  -we  had  reached  a  safe  distance  we 
sat  down  for  a  few  moments'  rest  and  consultation.  We 
knew  we  were  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  road,  and 
very  near  the  cataract  path,  and,  that  once  found,  a  few 
moments'  walk  would  place  us  beside  our  team ;  but  to  find 
the  path  was  the  difliculty,  in  the  profound  darkness  by 
which  we  were  enveloped.  Striking  a  match  we  started  a 
fire,  and  had  just  got  it  well  blazing  when  we  heard  a  team 
in  the  road.  A  few  moments  later  we  were  Joined  by  two 
men  with  lanterns,  who  had  been  sent  out  as  a  rescuing 
party,  by  our  anxious  friends  from  the  hotel.  By  the  aid  of 
the  lanterns  we  descended  to  the  road  in  a  few  minutes ;  and 
reached  the  hotel  at  about  eleven  o'clock.  We  had  been 
seven  hours  in  making  the  ascent  and  descent  of  the  moun- 
tain ;  but  my  companion  agreed  with  me  in  thinking  that  we 
could  do  better  another  time. 


JailNSOh-OttR 

Silver  PtippLE  Cascade,  Black   Brook,  Andover,  Me. 


CHAPTER  XXIi. 


^rtur$i0n$  itx  Pntm'$  l^aitl;  nnh  ^a$t  g  7yx\l 


AMOXG  other  beautiful  excursions  in  the  vicinity 
of  Andover,  perhaps  there  is  none  from  which 
one  will  derive  a  greater  amount  of  pleasure 
than  a  visit  to  this  wonderful  work  of  nature.  It  is 
situated  seven  miles  from  Andover  Corner,  a  short 
distance  from  the  road  leading  to  Umbagog  Lake. 

It  is  the  same  road  that  you  have  driven  over  to  the  "Cat- 
aracts," but  you  continue  on  two  miles  farther,  stopx^ing  at 
the  foot  of  a  high  hill. 

Leaving  the  carriage-road,  a  walk  of  half  a  mile  brings 
j^ou  to  these  walls  of  solid  rock,  so  grand  and  impressive. 
The  mountains  here  come  together  at  a  height  of  about 
1,500  feet  above  the  sea,  leaving  a  passage  scarcely  ten  feet 
A\  ide  between  them. 

The  path  to  the  Notch  starts  from  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
road,  and  runs  across  a  meadow,  where  grow  in  exhaustless 
numbers  the  most  delicious  wild  strawberries.  Then  crossing 
the  west  branch  of  the  Ellis,  which  rises  in  the  hills  above, 
you  continue  on  through  a  dense  forest,  that  furnishes  a 
comfortable  shade,  and  cliuib  slowly  up  the  mountain  side. 
The  path  you  follow  was  formerly  a  stage  road,  which,  by 
passing  through  the  Xotch,  cut  off  several  miles  of  the  dis- 
tance between  Andover  and  Umbagog  Lake.  For  several 
years,  however,  it  has  not  been  used,  owing  to  a  bad  wash- 
out, that  carried  a  part  of  the  road  into  a  deep  ravine.  This 
occurred  near  the  Xotch,  and  the  damage  was  so  great  that 
it  was  thought  inexpedient  to  repair  it,  on  account  of  the 
expense,  and  another  road  was  accordiiiglv  built  around  it. 
The  road  has  become  somewhat  overgrown  with  underbrush, 

but  through  this  you  can  easilv  pick  your  wav.    The  ascent 

291 


292  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 


is  steep,  and  you  wVA  be  glad  to  rest  occasionally  before 
reaching  the  top.  There  has  been  some  talk  lately  of  having 
the  County  Commissioners  lay  out  the  road  again,  the  State 
to  mal^e  an  appropriation  of  one  thousand  dollars  to  put  it 
in  repair. 

As  you  climb  up  the  side  of  the  mountain  there  are  occa- 
sional openings,  from  which  you  can  get  views  of  the  farther 
side  of  the  gorge,  and  of  the  picturesque  stream  which  sings 
noisily  far  below  you.  On  reaching  the  top,  the  awful 
grandeur  of  the  scene  is  at  once  apparent ;  two  large  walls 
of  rock,  rising  to  a  height  of  more  than  a  thousand  feet  con- 
front you,  their  sides  rugged  and  scarred  from  long  battle 
with  the  storm-king's  forces.  One  immense  mass  of  ledge, 
at  the  very  head  of  the  Notch,  towers  like  a  huge  pinnacle 
far  above  all  others.  To  the  summit  of  this  the  adventure- 
some tourist  may  clamber,  not,  however,  without  some  little 
risk  to  his  neck,  and,  seated  on  the  top,  command  a  magnifi- 
cent view,  extending  down  through  the  Notch  for  miles. 
The  wild  and  weird  character  of  the  place  is  more  forcibly 
brought  to  your  mind  here  than  from  any  other  point,  and 
this  view  alone  will  amply  recompense  you  for  the  toil  and  time 
in  visiting  this  charming  spot.  To  gain  a  proper  idea  of  the 
height,  however,  one  should  descend  into  the  ravine,  and 
gaze  up  at  the  huge  pillar  of  stone  which  towers  so  far 
above.  The  stream,  too,  is  seen  falling  like  a  silver  thread, 
and  flashing  in  the  sunlight,  now  making  a  leap  of  several 
feet,  and  then  flowing  swiftly  over  the  face  of  the  rock, 
until  it  reaches  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  through  which  it 
flows,  emptying  into  the  Ellis  some  miles  below.  A  whole 
day  should  be  taken  for  this  excursion,  as  one  needs  at  least 
four  hours  at  the  Notch. 

East  B  Hill. 

This  sightly  eminence  is  distant  from  the  village  of  Ando- 
ver  about  ten  miles.  It  is  a  very  pleasant  excursion,  and  can 
easily  be  made  in  a  day.  The  route  lies  over  the  same  road 
as  to  Dunn's  Notch;  but,  after  reaching  the  point  where  you 
diverge  to  visit  the  Notch,  the  road  rapidly  rises,  and  you 


THE  AXDPtOSCOGGiy  LAIvES.  293 

have  a  long,  tiresome  climb  up  the  side  of  a  hill,  that  so  far 
as  height  is  concerned,  migiit  well  be  called  a  mountain, 
passing  through  a  piece  of  woodland,  which  in  the  fall  is  an 
excellent  place  for  partridges.  At  the  top  of  this  mountain 
there  is  a  level  plateau  of  a  mile  or  more,  across  which  you 
drive,  and  then  descend  to  another  valley,  cross  this,  and  up 
another  long  ascent,  and  you  reach  B  Hill.  From  the  Dunn's 
Notch  path  to  the  summit  of  B  Hill  there  is  not  a  house  to 
be  seen,  and  the  ride  through  this  lovely  stretch  of  forest  is 
a  poem  in  itself. 

The  road  is  so  narrow  that  the  trees  meet  in  many  places, 
effectually  protecting  you  from  Old  Sol's  fiery  glances.  This 
is  the  most  hilly  of  any  of  the  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Ando- 
ver;  but  the  road  is  good,  and  the  "buck  board"  makes  easy 
travelling.  Arriving  at  the  toiD  of  the  hill,  which  is  over 
two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  you  have  a  view,  fully  as 
fine  as  may  be  obtained  from  many  mountains. 

From  north-west  to  north-east  are  to  be  seen  Umbagog  and 
the  other  Androscoggin  Lakes,  sandwiched  in  between  the 
vast  forests  by  which  they  are  surrounded,  appearing  like 
silver  gems  against  their  dark  green  setting ;  to  the  south 
Old  Bald  Pate  rears  his  frosty  head,  and  in  the  west  may  be 
seen  several  of  the  White  Mountain  peaks, — Mount  Washing- 
ton, whose  lofty  summit  kisses  the  clouds,  and  looks  down 
upon  the  others.  With  a  fair  opera  or  field  glass  one  is 
easily  enabled  to  make  out  the  different  buildings.  We  pub- 
lish a  variety  of  fine  photographic  views  of  the  places  of 
interest  mentioned  in  this  chapter. 


Ox     A     BUCKBOARD. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


~S|4':|m^^ERS0XS  fond  of  natural  Bcenery  Avill  find 
\\m  ^\  l[ f^  this  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  excursions 
that  can  he  made  from  Andover,  and  it  will 
occupy  from  a  day  and  a  half  to  two  days. 
Start  some  fine  day  the  first  thino;  after  din- 
ner, aceompiniied  by  a  few  friends,  and  drive 
to  Cambridg-e,  X.  H.,  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Umbagog,  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles,  and  put  up  for  the 
night  at  the  Lakeside  Hotel,  where  you  are  sure  of  the  best 
of  accommodations. 

The  next  morning,  leaving  the  teams  and  driver  to  await 
your  return,  and  accompanied  by  a  well-filled  lunch-basket, 
— don't  forget  that  if  j^ou  wish  to  keep  good-natured, — take 
the  steamer  Parmachenee,  and  make  the  round  trip  of  the 
lake  and  rivers,  a  distance  of  some  seventy  miles.  The 
course  lies  up  the  Umbagog  Lake,  the  route  across  which 
has  been  alreadj"  fully  described  in  Chapter  lY.,  to  Sunday 
Cove,  thence  back  across  the  lake,  and  down  the  Androscog- 
gin Eiver  to  Errol  Dam  Landing,  where  a  stop  is  made  long 
enough  for  you  to  inspect  the  Dam,  which  is  Morth  a  visit ; 
thence  retrace  the  route  four  miles  towards  tlie  lake,  and 
enter  the  Magalloway  River,  up  which  serpentine  stream  j^ou 
sail  for  eight  or  fourteen  miles,  according  to  the  heiirht  of 
water  in  the  river,  stopping  at  the  lower  landing,  (Little- 
hale's),  during  low  water;  from  a  high  hill  in  this  vicinity 
you  will  obtain  several  fine  views  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. In  high  water  the  steamer  runs  up  the  river  six  miles 
above  Littlehale's  Landing,  stopping  at  the  Upper  Landing, 
(Flint's),  and  but  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel. 


296  FARRAK'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 


The  steamer  stops  at  cither  landing  one  hour,  and  you  have 
ample  time  for  a  lunch  on  board  and  a  stroll  on  shore,  or  a 
dinner  at  the  hotel,  before  the  whistle  sounds  the  return.  If 
at  the  lower  landing  you  may  visit  the  Berlin  Mills  House, 
two  miles  distant,  by  land,  and  obtain  a  good  dinner  for  fifty 
cents.  A  team  will  take  you  to  and  from  the  boat  free  of 
expense,  and  during  the  ride  you  will  obtain  some  charming 
views  of  the  mountains  that  lie  along  the  vallej^ 

At  two  o'clock  you  "start  down  the  river,"  and  reaching 
the  Androscoggin,  again  visit  Errol  Dam;  thence  retrace 
your  course,  crossing  the  lake  to  Sunday  Cove ;  from  there 
you  are  "homeward  bound,"  and  once  more  crossing  the 
lake,  at  the  most  beautiful  time  of  day  for  a  sail,  you  reach 
Cambridge  and  the  cosey  Lakeside,  about  six  o'clock.  If 
you  have  taken  the  precaution  to  order  supper  to  be  ready 
on  the  arrival  of  the  boat,  you  can  at  once  satisfy  the  de- 
mands of  hunger;  and,  starting  immediately  after  supper, 
you  will  reach  Andover  about  half  past  ten  o'clock  that 
niorht.  If  there  is  a  moon  nothing  can  be  more  lovelv  than 
this  evening  ride  from  Umbagog  Lake  to  Andover.  Or  you 
can  stop  over  night  at  the  Lakeside  Hotel,  at  Cambridge,  and 
return  to  Andover  the  next  morning  after  breakfast. 

On  all  excursions  where  you  are  liable  to  be  out  after  dark, 
l^roper  care  should  be  taken  to  dress  warm,  as  the  night  air 
among  the  mountains  is  cool  and  sharp.  Plenty  of  shawls 
and  water-proofs  for  the  ladies  and  overcoats  and  blankets 
for  the  gentlemen,  are  never  amiss. 

The  above  trip  is  a  most  enjoyable  one,  and  is  not  so  very 
expensive ;  and  the  larger  the  number  the  less  the  expense  to 
each.    Tlie  fare  on  the  steamer  will  be  $2.00  each. 

Dixville  Notch. 

To  those  who  have  never  visited  Dixville  Notch  a  trip  to 
this  wild  and  romantic  region  is  a  pleasure  long  to  be  thought 
of.  It  is  easily  reached  from  Andover,  and  the  trip  can  be 
readily  made  in  two  days,  although  three  are  preferable. 
The  writer  and  a  party  of  friends  made  the  trip  one  summer, 
it  occupying  two  days,  and  were  enabled   to  see  all  the   ob- 


TIIE  AXDllOSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  297 

jects  of  interest,  although  they  did  not  spend  as  much  time 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Notch  as  they  would  have  liked.  The 
distance  from  the  village  to  the  Dix  House  is  thirty-five 
miles, — just  a  i)leasant  day's  ride,  and  not  at  all  tiresome 
when  done  on  a  "buckboard.*' 

Leaving  the  hotels  early  in  the  morning  you  drive  half  of 
the  distance  to  the  Lakeside  hotel  where  you  can  procure  a 
good  dinner  and  have  an  hour's  rest.  An  after  dinner  chat 
and  cigar,  on  the  broad  piazza,  with  the  lake  spread  out  be- 
fore you,  backed  by  the  mountains,  is  not  a  bad  idea,  en 
passant.  "By  this  time  the  horses  will  have  been  fed  and 
rested,  and  you  resume  your  seats,  and  ride  the  remaining 
distance,  reaching  the  Notch  about  seven  o'clock.  The  next 
day  can  be  spent  in  climbing  Jacob's  Ladder,  and  viewing 
the  country  from  Table  Rock,  visitiug  the  Ice  Cave,  staring 
at  the  Profile,  and  going  into  ecstacies  over  the  Flume  and 
Cascades  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Notch, — for  you  are  sure 
to  do  it.  A  visit  to  Columnar  Eock,  and  a  stroll  along  that 
side  of  the  Notch,  is  also  desirable.  If  piscatorially  in- 
clined and  you  have  had  the  forethought  to  bring  your  rod 
and  book  of  flies,  vou  mav  stroll  a  short  distance  from  the 
hotel  and  catch  a  good  mess  of  trout  for  supper. 

For  the  entire  distance  between  the  two  places  the  scenery 
is  charming,  and  the  ride  delightful.  The  road  is  first-rate, 
with  the  exception  of  a  short  distance  in  the  heart  of  the 
Notch,  and  that  is  not  at  all  dangerous.  Some  very  pretty 
views  of  the  Androscoggin  Eiver  may  be  obtained  at  Errol, 
at  which  place  jom  cross  the  stream  by  means  of  a  covered 
bridge.  For  a  more  particular  description  of  the  scenery 
about  Dixville  Notch  we  refer  you  to  former  chapters  of  the 
book. 

The  Lake  Umbagog  and  Dixville  Notch  trips  may  be  com- 
bined in  the  following  manner,— and  this  is  by  far  the  most 
satisfactory  way  to  make  the  trip : — 

Leave  Andover  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  drive  to  the 
Lakeside  Hotel  in  Cambridge,  which  you  reach  in  time  for 
supper,  and  where  you  will  stop  over  night.  The  next 
morning  take  passage  on  the  steamer,  and  enjoy  the  sail  on 


The  Flume,  Dixville  Notch,  N.H. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGm  LAKES.  299 


the  lake  and  rivers,  touching  at  the  places  mentioned  above, 
and  leave  the  boat  in  the  afternoon  at  Errol  Dam.  Have 
your  teams  leave  the  Lakeside,  in  Cambridge,  about  one 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  drive  around  to  Errol  Dam, 
which  place  they  will  reach  about  half  i)ast  two  or  three, 
making  sharp  connection  with  the  steamer.  Then  exchang- 
ing the  boat  for  j'^our  buckboard,  a  drive  of  two  hours  will 
bring  you  to  the  Dix  House  on  the  western  side  of  the  Notch 
where  you  stop  over  night.  Spend  the  next  forenoon  there, 
which  will  give  you  abundant  time  to  see  all  of  mterest ; 
order  a  twelve-o'clock  dinner,  and  leave  the  Notch  at  one 
o'clock,  sharp,  arriving  at  Errol  Dam  at  three  P.  M.,  in  time 
to  connect  with  the  steamer.  As  the  boat  runs  to  Sunday 
Cove  before  going  down  the  lake  to  Cambridge,  you  will 
have  a  delightful  sail  of  twenty-two  miles,  and  your  teams 
will  reach  the  Lakeside  as  soon  as  you  do.  After  supper  you 
can  drive  to  Andover,  or  stop  at  the  Lakeside  over  night,  and 
leave  the  next  morning  after  breakfast,  reaching  Andover  at 
noon. 

The  two  trips  may  be  made  in  this  manner  in  three  or  four 
days,  and  the  expense  will  be  less  than  if  they  are  made 
separately. 

Rumford  Falls. 

These  celebrated  falls,  the  highest  in  New  England,  are 
situated  south-east  from  the  village  of  Andover.  The  road 
is  excellent  the  whole  distance,  and  the  drive  very  pleasant. 
You  are  in  sight  of  the  Ellis  or  Androscoggin  Rivers  the 
most  of  the  way,  and  the  falls  are  six  miles  below  the  Rum- 
ford  ferry.  The  full  tide  of  the  Androscoggin  makes  a 
descent  at  the  falls  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  three 
f)itches,  and  within  the  space  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  There 
is  one  sheer  descent  of  seventy  feet.  In  the  spring  when  the 
logs  are  going  down  the  river  it  is  an  inspiring  sight  to  see 
them  leap  the  falls. 

Still  another  way  to  reach  these  falls  from  Andover  is  to 
cross  the  Ellis  River,  and  drive  over  the  road  to  Mexico, 
going  through  Roxbury  Notch,  a  locality  of   no  mean  pre- 


300  FAJREAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


tensions,  and  afterwards  follow  the  road  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Androscoggin  until  you  reach  the  falls.  The  distance 
this  way  is  but  nine  miles,  and  would  be  preferable  to  some 
on  that  account.  Our  idea  of  this  drive  is  to  go  by  the  way 
of  Roxbury  jSTotch,  and  come  back  by  the  other  road,  thus 
giving  greater  variety  to  the  excursion. 
Ten  miles  from  Rumford  Falls  is 

Mount  Zircon, 

a  very  prominent  peak,  and  one  which  is  well  worth  visiting. 
Some  of  the  finest  views  in  Xew  England  may  be  seen  from 
its  summit.  Several  years  ago  a  large  hotel  stood  on  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  but  it  was  destroyed  by  fire.  At  the  base 
of  the  mountain  is  the  famous  Mount  Zircon  Mineral  Spring, 
whose  waters  have  performed  some  remarkable  cures.  The 
w^ater  is  free  to  drink  to  parties  visiting  the  spring.  It  may 
be  obtained  by  the  barrel  from  F.  T.  Stevens,  Bryant's  Pond, 
Me.  The  mountain  can  easily  be  visited  in  one  day  from 
Andover,  returning  the  next  day,  and  stopping  at  Rumford 
Falls  on  the  way  back. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


Wvmi  %i^\ftmj. 


OST  of  the  streams  about  Andover 
abound  in  trout.  Among  those  which 
we  call  special  attention  to,  having 
found  from  practical  experience  that 
they  are  favorite  resorts  of  the  spotted 
beauties,  are  Black  Brook,  Sawyer's 
Brook,  Old  Maid  Brook,  Frye's  Brook,  and  Burroughs' 
Brook.  Trout  may  be  found  in  all  these  waters  at  any  time 
during  the  year,  the  fish  averaging  from  one-fourth  to  two 
pounds  in  weight. 

These  streams  are  all  within  easy  walking  or  riding  dis- 
tance from  the  hotel,  and  are  fished  without  difficulty,  a  pair 
of  long-legged  rubber  boots  being  the  only  requisite  beside 
proper  fishing-tackle. 

Apropos  of  brook  trout-fishing,  the  following,  from  Scott's 
"Fishing  in  American  Waters,"  is  worth  reading  : — 

"Questions  in  relation  to  fishing  up  or  down  a  stream  should 
be  decided  by  the  condition  of  the  stream  and  its  borders. 
While  casting  fi-om  the  shore  it  makes  very  little  difference 
which  way  the  stream  is  fished;  but  in  wading  it  is  best  to 
fish  up  stream  because  it  does  not  roil  the  water,  and  there 
is  not  so  great  liability  to  alarm  the  fish.  In  making  a  cast 
it  is  always  best  to  draw  the  flies  across  the  current,  for 
then  the  drop-flies  will  play  clear  of  the  casting-line.  This 
is  the  opinion  of  most  good  fly-fishers.  First,  cast  up  stream 
along  the  shore,  and,  if  the  stream  be  not  too  wide,  cast  to 
the  farther  shore,  drawing  your  flies  across  the  stream,  but 
not  too  fast,  lest  the  trout  become  suspicious.  In  striking, 
you  cannot  be  too  quick  when  fishing  up  a  stream.    Cast 

first  near  the  shore ;  then  a  vard  or  two  farther  off";  next, 

301 


302  F.UlEAPt'S  ILLUSTRATED  GULDE   TO 

across  the  stream.  If  you  get  not  r.  rise,  take  a  step  or  two 
up  the  stream  and  repeat.  Continue  doing  so,  until  a  doubt 
arises  as  to  whetlier  the  trout  admire  your  cast;  then  replace 
one  fly  by  another  of  different  color  from  any  on  your  cast. 
If  that  does  not  take,  after  presenting  it  several  times,  take 
it  off"  and  try  another  extreme  in  color.  Keep  changing  un- 
til you  hit  the  fancy  of  the  trout.  AMien  you  have  found 
the  fly  that  the  trout  admire,  change  your  other  flies  (if  you 
fish  with  three)  to  those  of  colors  in  slight  relief  to  the 
taking  one ;  that  is,  put  on  one  a  trifle  darker  and  the  other 
a  little  lighter  in  shade.  Anglers  are  not  so  high  a  remove 
above  the  rest  of  mankind  as  not  to  be  susceptible  to  a  slight 
influence  from  the  baser  sentiments  of  humanity;  but  I  have 
actually  seen  a  man  so  self-willed  as  to  fish  all  day  without  a 
rise,  'because*,  as  he  said,  'he  was  determined  to  bring  the 
trout  to  his  terms.' 

"All  kinds  of  angling  call  for  the  exercise  of  patience; 
but  fly-fishing  requires  the  gift  of  genius.  Do  not  fish  with 
too  long  a  cast.  In  fishing  a  creek  up  stream,  thirty  to  forty- 
five  feet  are  quite  sufficient.  In  striking  let  it  be  with  suf- 
ficient force  to  fasten  the  hook  in  his  jaw ;  but  play  your  fish 
most  gingerly,  and  even  tenderly,  but  not  so  as  to  give  him 
slack  line,  or  he  will  disgorge  the  hook.  One  of  the  princi- 
pal causes  of  losing  large  fish  is  the  being  in  too  great  a 
hurry  to  land  them.  If  the  hook  is  well  fastened,  the  more 
delicately  your  fish  is  played  the  better;  for  snubbing  a  fish 
hard  at  all  points  wears  an  orifice  in  its  jaw  from  which  the 
hook  falls  by  the  mere  turning  of  the  fish.  It  is  true  that 
the  trout  has  a  good  mouth  to  hold  the  hook ;  but  the  hook 
must  first  be  well-fastened  to  hold,  and  then  the  orifice  made 
in  hooking  should  not  be  made  larger  in  playing,  if  possible 
to  avoid  it.'' 

Another  writer  says  : — 

"To  follow  trout-fishing  with  success  requires  on  the  part 
of  the  angler  much  care  and  study  as  well  as  natural  apti- 
tude for  the  business.  The  trout  is  not  a  fish  to  be  trified 
with.  lie  must  be  approached  cautiously  and  deceived  with 
deliberation.    Although  possessed  of   a  shark-like  appetite. 


An  Obstacle. 


304  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

he  is  a  stickler  for  form,  and  objects  to  unseasonable  food 
with  the  pertinacity  of  a  religious  devotee.  AVhen  he  wants 
flies  the  plumpest  of  angle-worms  may  be  dragged  before 
his  very  nose  without  quickening  the  play  of  his  pectoral 
fins,  or  the  easy  sway  of  his  tail,  and  when  it  is  no  longer 
fly-time  with  him,  the  very  king  of  gray  hackles  might  flut- 
ter and  flap  untouched  within  a  finger's  length  of  the  lily- 
pad  which  serves  as  his  shelter.  But  there  is  one  dainty  he 
never  rejects.  Be  it  chub,  or  shiner,  or  even  the  small  fry  of 
his  own  species,  this  handsome  cannibal,  like  the  pelican 
that  he  is,  makes  haste  to  take  it  in  whenever  opportunity 
offers.  It  is  rare,  indeed,  when  a  big  trout's  stomach  fails  to 
yield  his  captor  evidence  of  a  fish  dinner.  This  weakness  of 
the  trout  is  often  turned  to  good  account  by  parties  who  bait 
strong  hooks  with  live  fish,  and  leave  them  'set'  in  the  water 
over  night.  Such  fishing  is  condemned,  however,  as  un- 
sportsmanlike, and  no  reputable  fisherman  likes  to  be  known 
as  practising  it.  For  that  matter,  too,  trolling  is  looked  upon 
as  not  exactly  the  square  thing,  the  rule  of  fishcraf  t  being 
that  the  fly  ranks  first  in  honor,  then  rod-fishing  with  a  sin- 
gle hook.  Both  of  these  styles  call  for  judgment,  i^atience, 
and  some  skill,  whereas  trolling,  and  worse  still,  the  use  of 
gang-hooks  gives  the  fish  no  chance  for  his  life. 

The  trout  naturallj^  runs  to  salt  water  in  winter,  and  this 
is  what  gives  the  Sandwich  fish  and  those  of  Xova  Scotia 
their  exquisite  flavor ;  while  the  greater  abundance  of  food 
they  find  there  keeps  them  plump  and  well-flavored.  In  in- 
land places  the  fish  pass  the  cold  months  in  the  deepest  wa- 
ter they  can  find,  and  with  the  opening  of  spring  may  be 
found  at  the  mouths  of  streams,  where  bugs  and  worms  are 
likely  to  be  more  plentiful  than  farther  out  in  the  pond  or 
lake  as  the  case  may  be.  As  the  season  advances  and  the 
water  grows  warmer  thej^  run  up  the  streams ;  but  in  the  hot 
and  sultry  days  of  July  and  August  they  fall  back  to  deep, 
cool  pools.  They  can't  live  long  in  water  as  warm  as  seven- 
ty degrees. 

The  spawning  season  is  in  October,  and  the  water  is  then 
somewhat  cooler  than  in  mid-summer,  and  they  run  into  the 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGLNT  LAKES.  305 


sandy  shallows  of  their  favorite  breeding  grounds  without 
inconvenience  from  the  heat.  The  generally  recognized  fish- 
ing season  extends  from  May  1st  to  October  1st,  but  it  is  not 
until  about  the  middle  of  May  that  the  fish  bite  very  freely. 
During  the  whole  of  this  month  bait-fishing  is  in  order,  the 
fish  being  as  a  rule  reluctant  to  rise  to  a  fly.  June  is  the 
best  month  of  the  year  for  trout-fishing,  and  then  it  is  that  the 
deluded  creatures  snap  at  imitation  millers  and  what-nots,  as 
the  manufacturer's  skill  produces  them,  and  soon  find  them- 
selves weak  and  bleeding,  enclosed  by  the  relentless  meshes 
of  the  landing-net,  and  then  are  left  to  gasp  their  lives  away 
on  a  sun-scorched  raft  or  in  the  dungeon  of  a  fish-basket. 

In  July  the  festive  fisher  chases  the  still  more  festive 
grasshopper,  and  finds  him  good  bait  when  caught.  But  the 
hopper  is  rather  a  dw^eller  among  the  hay-fields  of  the  culti- 
vated land  than  a  sipper  of  dew  in  the  wilderness,  and  it  is, 
after  all,  the  careless  swain  who  follows  the  winding  brook 
through  grassy  meadows  who  turns  the  song  of  insect  glee 
to  sighing.  Piscatorial  poetry  requires  a  meadow  as  a  back- 
ground. There  are  the  primroses,  the  violets,  the  butter- 
cups, the  tiger  lilies,  the  ox-eye  daisies  (pretty  to  talk  about, 
but  the  farmer's  pest),  the  grassy  banks,  and  all  the  gor- 
geous livery  of  nature  shorn  of  her  wildness,  but,  as  a  rule, 
no  trout.  He  is  a  fish  of  the  shade,  and  the  wilder  the  rush 
of  water  the  happier  lie  is." 

We  do  not  know  of  any  greater  pleasure  than  to  start  some 
fine  morning  from  the  hotel,  and  ride  to  one  of  these  brooks. 
Leaving  the  team  and  carrying  j'our  fishing-tackle  and  lunch- 
basket,  you  strike  the  stream,  where  the  eddies  curl  around 
the  roots  of  some  old  tree.  Obtaining  a  good  position,  you 
make  a  cast,  your  fly  strikes  the  water,  dances  for  a  moment 
on  the  surface  of  the  swiftly  flowing  stream,  and,  presto ! 
you  see  a  spotted  beauty  dart  like  a  flash,  and  off  he  goes 
with  your  hook  in  his  mouth.  A  few  moments  of  anxious 
susioense,  and  he  lies  quivering  in  your  basket,  doomed  to 
the  ignoble  end  of  sizzling  in  a  frying-pan.  Many  more 
such  scenes  as  this,  and  then  a  withdrawal  to  some  umbra- 
geous shade,  where  beneath  the    sheltering  branches  of  a 


30C        FAirr.Airs  illustrated  guide  to 


fine  old  tree,  j'ou  go  through  your  lunch-basket,  with  appe- 
tite heightened  by  the  morning's  sport.  Lighting  a  cigar, 
after  every  crumb  of  food  has  disappeared,  you  indulge  in 
dolce  far  nient,  and  watch  the  clouds  as  they  sail  lazily 
through  the  sky,  or  build  air-castles  in  the  smoke  of  your 
Havana,  as  it  curls  gracefully  above  your  head,  and  is  wafted 
into  dim  distance  by  the  sweet  breath  of  the  summer 
zephyrs. 

But,  lunch  over,  you  again  take  to  the  brook,  and  try  every 
pool  and  rapid  that  has  before  escaped  your  notice,  and, 
after  a  repetition  of  the  morning's  sport,  with  your  basket 
well  filled  with  the  sweetest  of  all  fish,  the  spotted  brook- 
trout,  you  trainp  wearily  back  and  wait  by  the  side  of  the 
road,  the  return  of  the  team  to  take  you  back  to  the  hotel, 
which  never  looks  more  inviting  than  at  the  close  of  a  hard 
day's  fishing,  where,  once  arrived,  you  recount  the  incidents 
of  the  day  to  a  crowd  of  sympathetic  listeners,  who  are  held 
spellbound  until  the  welcome  call  to  supper  dissolves  the 
charm. 

"Where,  in  many  straggling  group, 

Gnarled  and  crooked  willows 
By  a  chaffing  streamlet  stoop, 
And  their  yellow  branches  droop, 

Tow'rd  its  tiny  billows ; 
Xear  the  banks  are  little  whirls, — 

Whirls  of  fretted  water, — 
And  beneath  those  rings  of  pearls 

Trout  delicious  caught  are," 

But,  although  trout  are  plenty  in  all  these  brooks,  they 
are  not  always  to  be  caught,  for,  as  one  of  the  natives  say, 
"drefful  notional  critturs  traout  be,  olluz  bitin'  at  whodger 
haint  got.  Orful  contrary  critturs— just  like  fimmels.  Yer 
can  cotch  a  fimmel  with  a  feather,  if  she's  ter  be  cotched ;  ef 
she  haiint  ter  be  cotched,  yer  may  scoop  ther  hul  world  dry 
and  yer  haant  got  her.    Jess  so  traout." 

The  trout-fishing  at  the  lakes  is  of  course  more  exciting 
than  brook-fishing.  For  instance,  below  the  Middle  Dam 
you  throw  your  fly  on  top  of  the  white  water,  and  have  it 
seized  by  a  ten-pounder  instead  of  a  baby  trout  six  inches 


THE  AN^DHOSCOGGIX  LAia:S. 


307 


long ;  you  strike  hard,  and  the  fish  darts  away,  while  fathom 
after  fathom  of  your  line  unreels,  and  you  begin  to  tremble 
for  fear  he  will  never  stop ;  he  turns,  and  you  begin  to  reel 
in,  carefully  and  watchfully,  keeping  his  head  well  up  to  the 
surface,  and  after  many  moments  of  exciting  anxiety  you 
get  him  near  enough  to  successfully  use  j^our  net.  It  is  no 
small  job,  to  take  an  eight  or  ten-pound  trout  out  of  swift 
water,  with  a  liglit  rod  and  not  break  your  rod  or  lose  your 
line.  It  requires  skill,  x)atience,  and  practice  to  do  it,  but 
isn't  it  sport?  How  your  eyes  sparlile,  your  cheeks  flush, 
and  how  you  quiver  with  the  excitement  of  the  moment, 
wliile  battling  with  one  of  these  gigantic  specimens;  and 
M'hat  a  look  of  disgust  quickly  steals  across  your  face,  if, 
after  all  your  best  efforts,  you  lose  your  fish  !  Certainly,  it 
is  provoking,  and  tlien  you  know  the  fish  you  lose  are  always 
the  largest.  ( '?) 


:&&--''  \ 


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SiSR*. 


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\msM-ii^' 


_%\A- 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Game  Laws  of  Maine. 

^  CHAPTER  L. 

The  Game  and  Fish  Laws  in  tliis  Boole  have  been  connected  up  to  date, 
and  include  all  the  changes  made  by  the  Legislature  of  1887. 

An  Act  for  the  protection  of  Game  and  Birds :  Moose,  Deer,  and 
Caribou. 

Be  if  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  with  dogs  any  moose 
wnthin  this  state,  under  a  penalty  of  one  hundred  dollars  for  every  moose 
so  hunted,  killed,  or  destroyed;  and  no  person  shall  between  the  lirst  day 
of  January  and  the  first  day  of  October  in  each  year,  in  any  manner, 
hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  any  moose  under  tlie  same  penalty.  [Laws  of  1887.] 

Sect.  4.  No  person  shall  lumt,  kill,  or  destroy  with  dogs  any  deer  or 
caribou  within  tliis  state,  under  a  penalty  of  forty  dollars  for  every  such 
deer  or  caribou  so  hunted,  killed,  or  destroyed;  and  no  person  shall 
between  the  first  day  of  January  and  the  first  day  of  October  in  any 
manner  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  any\leer  or  caribou,  under  the  same  penal- 
ty as  above  provided.  Any  person  may  lawfully  kill  any  dog  found 
hunting  moose,  deer,  or  caribou.  [Laws  of  1887.] 

Sect.  .5.  If  any  person  has  in  his  possession  the  carcass  or  hide,  or 
any  part  thereof,  of  any  such  animal,  between  the  first  day  of  January 
and  the  first  day  of  October,  he  sliall  be  deemed  to  have  hunted  and 
killed  the  same  contrary  to  law,  and  be  liable  to  the  penalties  aforesaid; 
but  he  shall  not  be  precluded  from  producing  proof  in  defence. 

Sect.  6.  No  person  shall  carry  or  transport  from  place  to  place  in  this 
State,  the  carcass  or  hide,  or  any  part  thereof,  of  any  sucli  animal,  during 
the  period  of  time  in  which  the  killing  of  such  animals  is  iDrohibited, 
under  a  penalty  of  forty  dollars. 

Sect.  7.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  council,  shall  appoint  one 
county  moose  and  game  warden  for  each  county  in  the  state,  to  hold  his 
office  for  the  term  of  four  years,  unless  sooner  removed,  each  of  whom 
may  appoint  in  writing  one  or  more  deputies  under  him,  and  require  of 
them  suitable  bonds  for  the  faithliil  performance  of  tlicir  duties,  and  the 
payment  to  him  of  his  fees;  and  said  wardens  and  their  deputies  in  their 
several  counties,  shall  faithfully  enforce  the  provisions  of  this  act.  Each 
of  the  deputies  shall  annually,  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  December, 
render  to  his  principal  an  account  under  oath  of  all  the  penalties  by 
him  enforced  for  the  preceding  year,  and  shall  pay  to  him  one-tenth  part 
of  the  net  proceeds  thereof.  Each  county  warden  shall  annually,  in 
January,  render  to  the  secretary  of  state  anacccount  on  oath  of  all  the 
penalties  enforced  by  himself,  or  returned  to  him  by  his  deputies,  for  the 
year  ending  on  the  first  day  of  December.  The  penalty  for  neglecting  to 
do  so  shall  oe  for  a  warden  fifty  dollars,  and  a  deputy  twenty-five  dol- 
lars ;  and  the  warden  shall  immediately  give  notice  to  the  county  attorney 
of  every  county  of  such  neglect  of  his" deputy,  and  the  secretary  of  state 
shall  notify  such  county  attorney  of  every  surb  xieglect  of  tlie  warden; 
and  the  county  attorney  shall  prosecute  for  G\hTy  such  neglect  of  which 
he  has  notice ;  and  the  penalties  so  recovered  shall  be  for  the  use  of  the 
county.  In  such  prosecution  the  certificate  of  the  secretary  of  state 
shall  be  sufficient  evidence  of  the  fact  of  such  neglect  to  make  return  to 
him. 

309 


310  FAKRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


Sect.  8.  The  municipal  officers  of  any  town  may  insert  in  the  wai-rant 
for  their  annual  meetiu!'  an  article  for  tlie  choice  of  a  town  moose  and 
game  warden,  who,  In  his  town  and  anywhere  within  the  distance  of 
twelve  miles  from  the  exterior  bounds  thereof,  shall  have  concurrent . 
jurisdiction  with,  and  the  same  powers  and  rights,  as  the  county  moose 
warden  and  his  deputies;  and  he  shall  make  a  like  return  to  the  secretary 
of  state  under  a  penalty  of  twenty-five  dollars,  to  be  proved,  recovered, 
and  appropriated  in  the  same  way.  Each  of  said  officers  shall  have  the 
same  authority  to  require  aid  in  the  execution  of  his  office  as  sheriflTs  and 
their  deputies  have. 

Sect.  9.  The  county  wardens,  their  deputies  or  town  wardens,  may 
recover  the  penalties  for  unlawfully  hunting  and  killing  moose,  deer,  and 
caribou,  in  an  action  on  the  case  in  their  own  names,  or  by  complaint  or 
indictment  in  the  name  of  the  state;  and  such  officers  may  be  competent 
witnesses,  and  the  sums  recovered  shall  be  paid,  one-half  to  the  warden 
or  deputy  warden,  and  the  other  to  the  county  or  to^vn,  as  the  case  may 
be.  Any  person  may  prosecute  by  action,  complaint  or  indictment  for 
auv  of  the  acts  herein  forbidden,  provided  no  such  warden  or  deputy, 
within  fourteen  days  after  the  offence  is  committed,  prosecutes  therefor, 
and  the  sums  recovered  shall  be  paid,  one-half  to  the  prosecutor,  and  the 
other  to  the  county,  and  such  action,  complaint  or  indictment  may  be 
commenced  in  any  county  in  which  such  animal  is  killed  or  hunted,  or 
into  wliich  its  carcass  or  hide,  or  any  portion  thereof  may  be  carried. 

Sect.  10.  The  secretary  of  state  is  to  communicate  to  the  legislature, 
in  each  month  of  January,  what  has  been  done  in  execution  of  the  pre- 
ceding sections  of  this  chapter  as  appears  by  the  returns  received. 

FUR-BEAEING  ANIMALS. 

Sect.  11.  No  person  shall  in  any  way  destroy,  between  the  first  day  of 
May  and  the  fifteenth  day  of  October  of  each  year,  any  mink,  beaver, 
sable,  otter,  or  fisher,  under  penalty  of  ten  dollars  for  each  animal  so 
destroyed,  to  be  recovered  on  complaint,  one-half  thereof  to  the  use  of 
the  county  where  the  offence  is  committed,  and  one-half  to  the  prose- 
cutor. 

BIRDS. 

Whoever  kills  or  has  in  his  possession,  except  alive,  or  exposes  for 
sale,  any  wood  duck,  dusky  duck,  commonly  called  l)lack  duck,  or  other 
sea  duck,  between  the  first  days  of  May  and  September,  or  kills,  sells,  or 
has  in  possession,  except  alive,  any  ruffed  grouse,  commonly  called 
partridge  or  woodcock,  between  the  first  days  of  December  and  Septem- 
ber following,  or  kills,  sells,  or  has  in  possession,  except  alive,  any  quail 
between  the  first  day  of  December  and  the  first  day  of  October  follow- 
ing, or  pinnated  grouse,  commonly  called  prairie  chicken,  between  the 
first  days  of  Januarv  and  September,  or  plover,  between  the  first  days  of 
May  and  August,  forfeits  not  less  than  five  nor  more  than  ten  dollars,  for 
each  bird  so  killed,  had  in  possession,  or  exposed  for  sale.  And  no  per- 
son shall  kill,  expose  for  sale,  or  have  in  possession,  except  alive,  any 
woodcock  or  inifl'ed  grouse,  or  partridge  during  September,  October  or 
November,  or  any  quail  except  during  the  months  of  October  and  No- 
vember, or  plover  during  the  months  of  August,  September,  October  or 
November,  except  for  consumption  as  food  within  this  state  under  the 
same  penalty.  (Approved  March  11, 1887.) 

Sect.  13.  No  person  shall  at  any  time,  or  in  any  place  within  this 
State  with  any  trap,  net,  snare,  device,  or  conti'ivance,  other  than  the 
usual  method  of  sporting  with  firearms,  take  any  wild  duck  of  any  vari- 
ety, quail,  grouse,  partridge,  or  woodcock,  imder  a  penalty  of  five 
dollars  for  each  bird  so  taken. 

Sect.  14.  No  person  shall  kill  or  have  in  his  possession,  except  alive, 
any  of  the  birds  commonly  known  as  larks,  robins,  swallows,  sparrows, 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIO^S.  311 

or  orioles,  or  other  insectivorous  birds,  crows  and  hawks  excepted, 
under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  one  dollar  nor  more  than  live  dollars  lor 
eacli  o!  said  birds  killed,  and  the  possession  by  any  person  of  such  dead 
bird  shall  he  prhnafade  evidence  tliat  such  person' killed  such  bird. 

Sect.  15.  No  person  shall  at  any  time  wantonly  take  or  destroj^  the 
nest,  eggs,  or  unfledged  young  of  any  wild  bird  of  auj'-  kind,  except 
crows,  hawks,  and  owls,  or  take  any  eggs  or  young  from  such  nests,  ex- 
cept lor  preserving  the  same  as  specimens,  or  of  rearing  said  young 
alive,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  one  nor  more  than  ten  dollars  I'oi* 
each  nest,  egg,  or  young  so  taken  or  destroyed. 

Sect.  1G.  No  person  sliall  carry  or  transport  from  place  to  place,  in 
this  State,  any  of  the  birds  named  herein,  during  the  period  in  which  the 
killing  of  such  birds  is  prohibited,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for 
each  bird  so  carried  or  transported. 

Sect.  18.  All  penalties  imposed  by  tlie  seven  preceding  sections  may 
be  recovered  by  an  action  of  debt,  or  by  complaint  or  indictment  in  the 
name  of  the  State,  by  any  warden  or  liis  deputies,  or  any  other  person, 
before  any  court  having  jm'isdictiou  tliereof,  in  any  county  in  Avliicii  such 
offence  may  be  committed  or  tlie  accused  resides;  and  in  all  actions 
therefor  in  the  supreme  judicial  court,  or  any  superior  court  for  the 
county  of  Cumberland,  if  the  plaintiff  recovers,  he  shall  recover  full 
costs  without  regard  to  the  amount  of  such  recovery.  Such  penalties, 
when  collected,  "shall  be  paid,  one-half  to  the  prosecutor,  and  the  other  to 
the  overseers  of  the  poor  lor  the  use  of  the  poor  of  the  city  or  town 
where  such  prosecutor  resides. 

Sect.  19.  This  act  shall  not  apply  to  the  shooting  of  ducks  on  the  sea- 
coast. 

Sect.  20.  Chapter  one  hundred  and  six,  and  section  two  of  chapter 
ninety-eight  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-two, 
together  with  all  acts  and  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act,  are 
hereby  repealed;  saving  all  actions,  complaints,  and  indictments  now 
pending,  or  which  may  hereafter  be  commenced  for  the  violation  of  any 
such  act  before  this  act  takes  effect. — [Approved  Feb.  19, 1878.] 


Lead-Miive  Bkidge,  Suelbukne,  N.H. 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

Game-Fish  La'ws  of  Maine, 
CHAPTER  LXXIV. 

An  Act  to  regulate  and  protect  Fisheries  and  the  Propagation  of  Fish . 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Section  l.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  shall  appoint 
one  or  two  persons,  as  they  may  think  best,  to  be  commissioners  of  fish- 
eries, who  shall  hold  office  for  three  years  unless  sooner  removed,  and 
have  a  general  supervision  of  the  fisheries,  regulated  by  the  following 
sections.  He  or  they  shall  examine  dams  and  all  other  obstructions  ex- 
isting in  all  rivers  and  streams  in  the  state,  and  determine  the  necessity 
of  fish-ways  and  the  location,  form,  and  capacity  thereof;  shall  visit 
those  sections  where  fisheries  regulated  by  this  act  are  can-ied  on,  and 
examine  into  the  working  of  the  laws;  sh'all  introduce  and  disseminate 
valuable  species  of  fish  into  the  waters  of  this  state  where  they  do  not 
exist,  and  perform  all  other  duties  prescribed  by  law.  He  or  they  shall 
report  annually  on  or  before  the  thirtv-first  day  of  December,  to  the  gov- 
ernor, who  shall  cause  three  thousand  copies  to  be  printed.  He  or  they 
shall  receive  one  thousand  dollars  and  traveling  and  other  expenses 
necessarily  incuiTcd  in  connection  Avith  his  or  their  duties,  which  shall 
be  audited  by  tlie  governor  and  council,  and  it  shall  be  his  or  tlieir  duty 
to  see  that  all  violations  of  the  fish  laws  of  the  state  are  duly  prosecuted. 

Sect.  2.  The  owner  or  occupant  of  every  dam  or  other  artificial  ob- 
struction in  any  river  or  stream  naturally  frequented  by  salmon,  shad, 
ale-wives  or  land-locked  salmon,  shall  provide  the  same  with  a  durable 
and  efficient  fisli-way,  of  such  fonn  and  capacity,  and  in  sucli  location  as 
may,  after  notice  in  Avi'iting  to  one  or  more  of  said  owners  or  occupants 
and  a  hearing  thereon,  be  determined  by  the  commissioners  of  fisheries, 
by  writent  notice  to  some  owner  or  occupant,  specifying  the  location, 
form,  and  capacity  of  tlie  required  fish-way,  and  the  time  within  which 
it  shall  be  built;  and  said  owner  or  occupant  shall  keep  said  fish-way  in 
repair,  and  open  and  free  from  obstruction  for  the  passage  of  fish,  during 
such  times  as  are  prescribed  by  law;  provided,  however,  that  in  case  of 
disagreement  between  tlie  conimissiouers  of  fislieries  and  the  owner  or 
occupant  of  any  dam,  as  to  the  propriety  and  safety  of  the  plan  submit- 
ted to  the  OAvner  or  occupant  of  such  dam  tor  the  location  and  constnic- 
tion  of  the  fish-way,  sucli  owner  or  occupant  may  appeal  to  the  county 
commissioners  of  the  county  wliere  the  dam  is  located,  within  twenty 
days  alter  notice  of  the  determination,  to  tlie  fishery  commissioners,  by 
giving  to  the  fishery  commissioners  notice  in  writing  of  such  appeal 
within  that  time,  stating  therein  tlie  reasons  therefor,  and  at  tlie  request 
of  the  appellant  or  the  fislieiy  commissioners,  tlie  senior  commissioners 
in  office  of  any  two  adjoining' counties  shall  be  associated  with  them,  who 
shall  appoint  a  time  to  view  the  premises  and  hear  the  parties,  and  give 
due  notice  thereof,  and  after  such  hearing  they  shall  decide  the  question 
summitted,  and  cause  record  to  be  made  thereof,  and  their  decision  shall 
be  final  as  to  the  plan  and  location  appealed  from.  If  the  requirements 
of  the  fishery  commissioners  are  affirmed,  the  appellant  shall  be  liable 
for  the  costs  arising  after  the  appeal,  otherwise  they  shall  be  paid  by  the 
county.    [App.  Feb.  23, 1887.] 

Sect.  3.  If  a  fish-way  thus  required  to  be  built  is  not  completed  to  the 
satisfaction  of  the  commissioners  within  the  time  specified,  any  owner  or 
occupant  shall  forfeit  not  more  than  one  hundred  nor  less  than  twenty 
dollars  for  every  day  between  the  first  day  of  May  and  the  first  day  of 
November,  during  which  such  neglect  continues. 

313 


314  FAERAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

Sect.  4.  On  the  completion  of  any  fish-way  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
commissioners,  or  at  any  subsequent  time,  tliey  shall  prescribe  in  ^v^iting 
the  time  durincr  whicli  the  same  sliall  be  kept  open  ana  free  from  obstruc- 
tion to  the  passage  of  fish  each  3'ear,  and  a  copy  thereof  shall  be  served 
on  the  owner  or  occupant  of  the  dam.  The  commissioners  may  change 
the  time  as  they  see  fit.  Unless  othei-wise  provided,  a  fish-way  shall  be 
kept  open  and  unobstructed  from  the  first  day  of  ^lay  to  the  fifteenth 
da\'  of  July  of  each  year.  The  penalty  for  neglecting  to  comply  with 
the  provisions  of  this  section,  or  any  "regulations  made  in  accordance 
herewitli,  shall  be  not  less  than  twenty  nor  moi'e  than  one  hundred  dol- 
lars for  every  day  such  neglect  continues. 

Sect.  5.  In  case  the  commissioners  find  any  fish-way  out  of  repair  or 
needing  alterations,  they  may,  as  in  case  of  new  fish-ways,  require  the 
owner  "or  occupant  to  make  such  repairs  or  alterations;  and  all  the  pro- 
ceedings in  sucli  cases,  and  the  penalty  for  neglect,  shall  be  as  provided 
in  the  second,  third,  and  fourth  sections,  without  right  of  appeal. 

Sect.  G.  In  case  the  dam  is  ownied  or  occupied  by  more  than  one 
person,  each  shall  be  liable  for  the  cost  of  erecting  and  "maintaining  such 
fish-wa}',  in  proportion  to  his  interest  in  the  dam,  and  if  any  owner  or 
occupant  shall  neglect  or  refuse  to  join  with  the  others  in  'erecting  or 
maintaining  such  fish-way,  the  other  owner  or  owners  or  occupants  shall 
erect  or  repair  the  same,  and  shall  have  an  action  of  case  against  such 
delinquent  owner  or  occupant  for  his  share  of  the  expenses  thereof. 

Sect.  7.  If  the  owner  or  occupant  of  such  dam  resides  out  of  the 
state,  said  penalties  may  be  recovered  by  a  libel  against  the  dam  and 
land  on  which  it  stands,'  to  be  filed  in  the  supreme  judicial  court  in  the 
county  where  the  same  is  located,  in  the  name  of  the  commissioners  of 
fisheries  or  any  fish  warden,  who  shall  give  to  the  owner  or  occupant  of 
the  dam,  and  all  persons  interested  therein,  such  notice  as  the  court,  or 
any  justic3  thereof  in  vacation,  shall  order,  and  the  court  may  render 
judgment  therein  against  said  dam  and  lands  for  said  penalties  and  costs, 
and  order  a  sale  thereof  to  satisfy  such  judgment  and  costs  of  sale, 
subject,  however,  to  all  said  requirements  for  the  erection,  maintenance, 
or  repair  of  said  fish-way. 

Sect,  8.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  shall  appoint 
fish  wardens  where  the  same  may  be  necessary,  who  shall  enforce  the 
provisions  of  all  public  laws  relating  to  fisheries,  prosecute  all  offences 
that  come  to  their  knowledge,  and  shall  have  the  same  power  as  sheriffs 
and  deputy  sheriffs  to  serve  all  criminal  process  for  the  violation  of  any 
of  the  provisions  of  this  act:  and  they  shall  have  a  right,  at  all  times,  to 
visit  any  daiu  or  any  weir  or  other  apparatus  for  takiiig  fish,  and  in  the 
exercise  of  their  duties  shall  have  the  same  right  to  require  aid  that 
sheriffs  and  their  deputies  Jiave  in  executing  the  duties  of  their  office, 
and  any  person  neglecting  to  render  it  when  required  shall  forfeit  ten 
dollars.  Each  person  so  appointed  shall  hold  office  three  j'cars,  unless 
sooner  removed,  and  his  pay  shall  be  fixed  by  the  governor  and  council, 
who  shall  audit  his  accounts  and  cause  the  same  to  be  paid  from  the 
state  treasury,  provided  that  the  whole  amount  paid  to  all  wardens  shall 
not  exceed  fifteen  hundred  dollars  annually. 

Sect.  9.  No  salmon,  shad,  or  other  migratory  fish,  shall  be  taken  or 
fished  for  within  five  hundred  yards  of  any  fish-Avaj'',  dam  or  mill-race; 
nor  in  the  Penobscot  river  between  the  mouth  of  the'  Kenduskeag  stream 
and  the  water  works  dam  at  Treat's  Falls,  on  said  river,  nor  between  the 
Augusta  highway  bridge,  over  the  Kennebec  river,  and  the  Axigusta  dam, 
between  the  first  days  of  April  and  November,  except  by  the  ordinary 
mode  of  angling  with  single  hook  and  line,  or  artificial  flies;  nor  shall 
hook  and  line  or  artificial  flies  be  used  at  any  time  within  one  hundred 
yards  of  any  fish-Maj',  dam  or  mill-race;  but'this  section  shall  not  apply 
to  the  taking  of  alewives  by  the  town  of  Wan-en  in  the  Georges  river, 
and  by  the  town  of  Waldoboro  in  the  Medomak  river,  under  the  author- 
ity granted  said  towns  by  the  private  and  special  laws  of  Massachusetts, 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  315 

passed  March  six,  eisjhteen  hundred  and  two,  and  amendments  thereto 
passed  by  the  legislature  of  this  state.  The  penalty  lor  violation  of  this 
section  is  a  line  of  not  more  than  fifty  nor  le?s  tlian  ten  dollars  for  each 
offence,  and  a  farther  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon,  and  one  dollar 
for  each  shad  so  taken.     [Approved  March  7, 1887.] 

Sect.  10.  There  shall  he  a  close-time  for  salmon  from  the  fifteenth  day 
of  July  of  each  year  to  the  first  day  of  April  following,  during  which  no 
salmon  shall  be  taken  or  killed  in  any  manner,  under  a  penalty  of  not 
more  than  fifty  nor  less  than  ten  dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of  ten 
dollars  for  each  salmon  so  taken  or  killed.  Provided,  howevei',  that 
from  the  said  fifteenth  dav  of  July  until  the  fifteenth  day  of  September 
following,  it  shall  be  lawful  to  fish  for  and  take  salmon  by  the  ordinary 
mode,  with  rod  and  single  line,  but  not  otherwise.  [Approved  Feb- 
ruary 28, 1880.] 

Sect.  11.  No  smelts  shall  be  taken  or  fished  for  in  tidal  waters,  except 
by  hook  and  line  between  the  first  days  of  April  and  October,under  a  penal- 
ty of  not  less  than  ten,  normore  thaii  thirty  dollars  foreach  offence,  and  a 
further  penalty  of  twenty  cents  for  each  smelt  so  taken,  and  all  weirs  for 
the  capture  of  smelts  shall  l)e  opened,  and  so  remain,  and  all  nets  used 
in  the  smelt  and  tom-cod  fishery,  shall  be  taken  from  the  water  on  or 
before  the  first  day  of  April,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  tlian  twenty  nor 
more  than  fifty  dollars,  and  a  further  fine  of  five  dollars  for  each  day 
that  any  such  weir  or  net  remains  in  violation  of  law,  but  weirs 
with  catch  pounds  covered  with  net,  the  meshes  of  whicli  are  one  inch 
square  in  the  clear,  or  greater,  are  not  subject  to  this  section.  But  no 
smelts  caught  in  such  weirs  after  the  first  day  of  April,  shall  be  sold  or 
offered  for'sale  in  this  state,  nor  shall  smelts  caught  in  any  manner  be- 
tween the  first  day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  October  following,  be 
offered  for  sale,  sold,  or  sliipped  from  tlie  state  imder  a  penalty  of  twen- 
tv-five  dollars  for  each  offence;  provided,  however,  that  dip  nets  may  be 
used  between  tlie  first  and  twenty-fifth  days  of  April;  ]irovided,  further, 
that  this  section  does  not  apply  to  smelts  taken  in  the  Androscoggin 
river,  above  the  Merry  Meeting  bay  bridge,  between  the  first  days  of 
October  and  November,  nor  to  smelts  taken  in  the  Penobscot  river  and  its 
ti'ibutaries,  between  the  first  and  fifteenth  days  of  April. 

Sect.  2.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  [Approved  March 
16, 1887.] 

Sect.  12.  Any  inhabitant  of  this  State,  by  obtaining  the  consent  of  the 
adjacent  riparian  proprietors,  mav  plant  oysters  below  low- water  mark 
inauvof  the  navigable  waters  of 'the  State,  in  places  Avhere  there  is  no 
natural  ovster -bed,  enclose  such  grounds  with  stakes,  set  at  suitable 
distances'and  extending  at  least  two  feet  above  high-water  mark,  but  so 
as  not  to  obstruct  the  free  navigation  of  such  waters,  and  have  the  ex- 
clusive right  of  taking  such  oysters;  and  if  any  person  trespasses  on 
such  enclosure,  or  in  aiiy  way  injures  such  oyster-beds,  he  shall  be  liable 
in  an  action  of  trespass  for  all  the  damage ;  or  if  lie  takes  any  oysters  there- 
in without  the  consent  of  the  owner,  he  shall  forfeit  not  less  than  twenty 
nor  more  than  fifty  dollars,  or  be  confined  in  jail  not  exceeding  three 
months. 

Sect.  13.  There  shall  be  an  annual  close  time  for  land-locked  salmon, 
commonly  so  called,  trout,  togue,  black  bass,  Oswego  l)ass,  and  white 
perch,  in  the  waters  of  this  State,  as  follows,  viz.:  For  land-locked 
salmon,  trout  and  togue,  from  the  first  day  of  October  to  the  first  day  of 
May  following,  excepting  on  the  St.  Croix  river  and  its  tributaries^  and 
all  the  waters  in  Kennebec  countv,  in  which  tlie  close  time  shall  be  from 
the  fifteenth  day  of  September  to  the  first  day  of  May  following;  and 
for  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  and  white  perch,  from  the  first  day  of  April 
to  the  first  day  of  July  following. 

Sect.  14.  Ko  person  shall  at  anv  time  catch,  take,  kill,  or  fish  for  any 
land-locked  salmon,  trout,  togue\  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white 


Mts.   Washingtox  and  Madisox,  FR03I  Lead  ISIine  Bridge, 

SUELBUKKE,    X.  H. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGES"  LAIvES.  317 

perch,  by  means  of  any  grapnel,  spear,  ti-awl,  weir,  net,  seine,  trap, 
spoon,  set-line,  or  with  any  device  or  in  any  other  way  than  by  the  ordi- 
nary way  of  angling  with  a  single  baited  hook  and  line,  or  with  artificial 
Hies,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  dollars  nor  more  than  thirty 
dollars  for  each  offence,  and  a  further  fine  of  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so 
caught,  taken,  or  killed.  And  all  set-lines,  grapnels,  spears,  trawls, 
weirs,  nets,  seines,  traps,  spoons,  and  devices  other  than  fair  angling  as 
aforesaid,  are  hereby  prohibited  on  the  fresh-water  lakes,  ponds,  and 
streams  of  this  State;'  and  when  found  in  use  or  operation  on  said  lakes, 
ponds,  or  streams,  they  are  hereby  declared  forfeit  and  contraband,  and 
any  person  finding  them  in  use  in  said  waters  is  hereby  authorized  to 
desti'oy  the  same. 

Sect.  15.  No  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  fish  for,  in  any  manner 
any  land-locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  in  any  of  the  watei's  aforesaid 
between  said  first  days  of  October  and  the  following  May,  nor  in  the 
Saint  Croix  river  and  its  tributaries,  between  the  fifteenth  day  of  Sep- 
tember and  the  fli'st  day  of  the  following  May;  or  black  bass,  Oswego 
bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the  first  days  of  April  and  July,  under  a 
penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  thirty  dollars,  and  a  further 
fine  of  one  dollar  for  each  fisli  thus  caught,  taken  or  killed ;  provided, 
however,  that  during  February,  March  and  April,  citizens  of  the  state 
may  fish  for  and  take  land-locked  salmon,  trout  and  togue,  and  convey 
the  same  to  their  own  homes,  but  not  otherwise ;  provided,  further,  that  the 
provisions  of  this  and  the  preceding  and  two  succeeding  sections,  shall 
not  apply  to  the  taking  of  black  bass  from  any  waters  which  have  been 
stocked  therewith  for  a  period  of  five  years.    [Approved  Mar.  1, 1887.] 

Sect.  16.  No  person  shall  sell,  expose  for  sale,  or  have  in  possession 
with  intent  to  sell,  or  transport  from  place  to  place  in  this  State,  any 
land-locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  between  the  first  day  of  October  and 
the  first  day  of  Mav  following,  or  any  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white 
perch,  between  the  "first  day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  July  following, 
under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  dollars  nor  more  than  fifty  dollars 
for  each  offence. 

Sect.  17.  Any  person,  or  persons  having  in  possession,  except  alive, 
any  land-locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  between  the  fii'st  day  of  October 
ancl  the  first  day  of  May  following,  or  any  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or 
white  perch,  between  the  fii'st  day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  July  fol- 
lowing, or  who  shall  transport  from  place  to  place  within  this  State,  any 
land-locked  salmon,  ti-out,  or  togue,  between  the  first  day  of  October  and 
the  first  day  of  May  following,  or  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white 
perch,  between  the  first  day  of  April  and  the  fii'st  day  of  July  following, 
shall  be  deemed  to  have  killed,  caught,  or  transported  the  same  contrary 
to  law,  and  be  liable  to  the  penalties  aforesaid. 

Sect.  18.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  white  perch 
taken  in  any  of  the  tide  wa'.ers  of  this  State. 

Sect.  19.  No  person  shall  introduce  fish  of  any  kind,  except  trout, 
fresh  and  salt  water  salmon,  fresh-water  smelts,  blue-back  trout,  and 
minnows,  bv  means  of  the  live  fish  or  otherwise,  to  any  waters  now  fre- 
quented by  trout  or  salmon,  except  as  hereinafter  provided,  under  a  pen- 
alty of  not  less  than  fifty  dollars  nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars. 

Sect.  20.  The  commissioners  of  fisheries  may  take  fish  of  any  kind  at 
such  time  and  place  as  they  may  choose,  and  in  such  manner,  for  the 
purposes  of  science,  and  of  cultivation  and  dissemination,  and  they  may 
grant  written  permits  to  other  persons  to  take  fish  for  the  same  purposes, 
and  they  may  introduce  or  permit  to  be  introduced,  any  kind  of  fish  to 
any  waters  they  may  see  fit. 

Sect.  21.  The  commissioners  of  fisheries  may  set  apart  any  waters  for 
the  purpose  of  cultivation  of  fish,  and  after  notice  published  three  weeks 
successively  in  some  newspaper  published  in  the  county  where  such 
waters  are   located,  no  person  shall  take,    kill,  or   fish 'for   any   fish 


318  FAPJiAR'S  ILLUSTEATED   GUIDE  TO 


therein,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten,  nor  more  than  one  hundred 
dollars,  and  a  lurther  peualtj'^  of  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  taken  or 
killed. 

Sect.  22.  Any  person  legally  engaged  in  the  artificial  cultiire  and 
maintenance  of  fishes,  may  take  them  in  his  owna  enclosed  waters  where- 
in the  eame  are  so  cultivated  and  maintained,  as  and  when  he  pleases, 
and  may  at  all  times  sell  them  for  the  purpose  of  cultivation  and  propa- 
gation, but  shall  not  sell  them  for  food  at  seasons  when  the  taking  of 
such  lish  is  prohibited  by  law,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  nor 
more  than  one  hundred  'dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of  not  less  thau 
one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  sold. 

Sect.  23.  Any  person  engaged  in  the  artificial  propagation  of  fish 
known  as  trout,  Iresh  and  salt  water  salmon,  on  any  water  in  this  State, 
when  the  parent  fish  are  taken  from  public  waters  iu  this  State,  sliall 
retain  not  less  than  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  all  eggs  taken  from  said 
parent  fish  and  cause  the  same  to  be  properly  cared  for  and  hatched,  and 
when  hatched  aud  in  proper  condition,  to  bereturned  to  a  suitable  place 
for  such  young  fish  in  the  original  waters  from  which  the  parent  fish 
were  taken,  and  to  cause  said  parent  fish  to  be  returned  to  safe  locations 
in  the  waters  from  which  they  were  taken,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less 
than  fifty  nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars  for  each  ofience.  But  the 
provisions  of  this  section  shall  not  apply  to  cases  in  which  the  parent 
fish  are  taken  in  the  manner  and  at  the  time  and  place  permitted  by  law 
for  the  capture  of  such  fish  lor  food;  nor  shall  it  apply  to  any  operations 
in  fish-culture  conducted  for  public  purposes  by  permission  of  the  com- 
missioners of  fisheries  of  this  State,  who  may  aflix  such  conditions  to 
their  permits  as  they  may  see  fit,  but  requiring  in  no  case  less  than  twen- 
ty-five per  cent,  of  the  young  fish  to  be  returned,  as  provided  in  this  sec- 
tion. 

Sect.  24.  No  person  shall  fish  in  that  portion  of  a  pond  or  other  water 
in  which  fish  are  artificially  cultivated  or  maintained,  by  the  Avritten  per- 
mission of  the  fish  commissioners,  without  the  permission  of  the  propri- 
etor, under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  one  hundred 
dollars,  and  an  additional  penalty  of  two  dollars  lor  each  fish  so  taken 
or  killed. 

Sect.  25.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  all  sheriffs,  deputy-sheriffs,  consta- 
bles, and  police-officers,  as  well  as  fish-wardens  and  their  deputies,  to 
cause  any  person  or  ])ersous  violating  any  of  the  provisions  of  this  chap- 
ter to  be  promptly  prosecuted  for  said  offence,  cither  by  making  com- 
plaint before  some  trial  justice,  municipal  or  police  judge,  or  by  giving 
information  to  the  county  attorney  of  the  county  in  which  the  offence  is 
committed.  Said  sheriffs,  deputy-sheriffs,  constables,  fish-wai'dens,  dep- 
uty fish-wardens,  and  police-oflicers,  shall  be  allowed  for  said  sei'vices 
the  same  fees  as  are  now  prescribed  by  law  for  sheriff's  and  their  deputies. 

Sect.  26.  All  fines  and  penalties  provided  for  in  this  act,  unless  other- 
wise provided,  may  be  recovered  before  any  competent  tribunal  by  com- 
plaint, indictment,  or  action  of  debt;  and  in  all  actions  of  debt  com- 
menced in  the  supreme  judicial  court,  or  in  the  superior  court  for  the 
county  of  Cumberland, 't lie  plaintiff  recovering  shall  recover  full  cost, 
without  regard  to  amount  recovered.  Judges  of  municipal  and  police 
courts,  and  trial  justices,  shall  have  concurrent  jurisdiction  of  all  offen- 
ces described  in  tliis  act,  when  the  penalty  for  the  offence  complained  of 
does  not  exceed  thirty  dollars.  In  cases 'where  the  offence  described  in 
this  act,  is  alleged  to  have  been  committed  in  any  river,  stream,  pond,  or 
lake  foiTning  a  boundary  between  two  counties,  or  where  the  fish  are 
caught  in  one  county  and  carried  to  another  countj',  tlie  action,  com- 
plaint, or  indictment  may  be  commenced  and  prosecuted  in  either  coun- 
ty. One-half  of  all  fines  and  penalties  recovered  or  imposed,  when  not 
otherwise  provided,  sliall  be  for  the  Ijenefit  of  the  party  prosecuting  or 
making  complaint,  and  the  other  half  to  the  county  in  which  the  proceed- 
ings are  commenced  and  prosecuted. 


THE  AKDROSCOGGIX  LAIvES.  319 


Sect.  27.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  the  taking  of 
blue-back  trout. 

Sect.  28.  All  acts  and  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  Mith  this  act  are 
hereby  repealed ;  provided,  however,  that  nothing  in  this  section  shall 
repeal  the  laws  relating  to  the  St.  Croix,  Denny,  remmaqum,  Cobscook, 
East  Machias,  and  Narraguagus  rivers.  And  this  act  shall  not  apply  to 
fish  taken  in  the  weirs  on  St  Croix  river. 

Sect.  29.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.— [Approved  Feb. 
21, 1879.] 


CHAPTER  77. 

An  Act  relating  to  Fish-Ways. 

Be  it  enacted,  <£:c.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  31.  The  following  waters  and  their  tributaries  are  exeiTipt  from 
provisions  relating  to  migi-atorj^  fishes,  and  the  suptirvision  of  fish-ways 
by  the  commissioners,  that  is  to  say:  Eoyall'?  river  in  North  Yarmonth ; 
Sewall's  pond,  or  its  outlet,  in  Arrowsic,"><equasset  sti-eam  in  Woodwich, 
so  much  of  the  waters  of  the  Damariscotta  river  as  are  west  of  the  i-ail- 
road  bridge,  near  Damariscotta  Mills;  the  eastern  Penobscot  river  in 
Orland:  Winslow's  and  Leach's  streams  in  Penobscot,  all  waters  in 
Vinalhaven,  Bluehill,  Tremont,  Mount  Desert,  Eden,  Franklin  and  Sulli- 
van, Tunk  river  in  Steuben,  Pleasant  river  in  Washington  county.  East 
Machias  river  and  Cobscook  or  Orange  river  in  Whiting.  Approved 
March  8, 1887. 

Additional  Game  and  Game-Fish  Laws  passed  during  tlae 

winter  of  1880. 

Chapter  ISO.    An  Act  for  the  protection  of  Blue-Back  Trout. 

Be  it  enacted,  <&c.,  as  follows: — 

Section  1.  No  person  shall  fish  for,  catch,  take,  kill  or  destroy  any 
blue-back  trout  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  state,  with  any  net,  seine, 
weir,  or  trap. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  who  shall  violate  the  provisions  of  this  act  shall 
forfeit  and  pay  the  sum  of  five  dollai-s  for  the  attempt,  and  one  dollar 
for  each  and  every  blue-back  trout  so  taken,  cauglit,  killed  or  destroyed, 
to  be  recovered  'hy  complaint  before  any  trial  justice,  one-half  to  the 
complainant  and  the  other  half  to  the  town  where  the  complaint  is  made. 

Sect.  3.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  [Approved  Feb- 
ruary 23, 1880.] 

Chapter  189.    An  Act  to  protect  Quails. 

Be  it  enacted,  cfec,  as  follows: — 

No  quail  shall  be  killed,  nor  had  in  possession  except  alive,  at  any  time 
previous  to  September  first,  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty-three,  under 
penalty  of  tvventy-five  dollars  for  every  offence,  and  one  doUar  addition- 
al for  each  quail  killed  or  had  in  possession  except  alive.  [Approved 
February  28, 1880.] 

Chapter  208.    An  Act  to  enlarge  the  powers  and  duties  of  the  Com- 
missioners of  Fisheries  and  Wardens. 


320  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 


Be  it  enacted,  djc,  asfolloivs: — 

Section  l.  The  powers  and  duties  of  the  commissioners  of  fisheries, 
and  wardens,  shall  extend  to  all  matters  pertainin£?to  game,  and  they  shall 
have  the  same  powers  to  enforce  all  laws  pertaining  to  game  as  they  now 
have  in  enforcing  the  laws  relating  to  the  fisheries. 

Sect.  2.  The  governor  is  hereby  authorized,  with  the  advice  and  con- 
sent of  the  council,  to  appoint  wardens,  whose  duty  it  shall  be  to  enforce 
the  provisions  of  all  laws  relating  to  game  and  the  fislieries,  arrest  any 
person  violating  such  laws,  and  prosecute  for  all  offences  against  the 
same  that  may  come  to  their  knowledge ;  and  shall  have  the  same  power 
as  sheriffs,  and  deputy  sheriffs,  to  serve  all  criminal  processes  for  viola- 
tions of  the  provisions  of  any  law  pertaining  to  game  and  the  fisheries, 
and  shall  be  allowed  for  said  services  the  same  fees  as  are  prescribed  by 
law  for  sheriffs  and  tlieir  deputies  for  like  services;  and  in  the  execution 
of  their  duties  they  shall  have  the  same  ri^ht  to  require  aid  that  sheriffs 
and  their  deputies  have  in  executing  the  duties  of  tlieir  office;  and  any 
person  refusing  or  neglecting  to  render  such  aid  when  required,  shall 
forfeit  ten  dollars,  to  be  recovered  upon  complaint  before  any  trial  jus- 
tice or  mxinicipal  court. 

Sect.  3.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  [Approved  March 
9, 1880.] 


NEW  LAWS  OP  1882-83. 

An  Act  for  the  protection  of  moose,  caribou,  and  deer. 

Be  it  enacted,  c&c,  as  follows: — 

Section  l.  No  person  shall  kill,  destroy,  or  have  in  possession  fi-om 
the  fli'st  day  of  October  to  the  first  day  of  January  in  each  year,  more 
than  one  moose,  two  caribou,  or  three  deer,  under  a  penally  of  one  hun- 
dred dollars  for  every  moose,  and  forty  dollars  for  every  caribou  or  deer 
killed,  desti'oyed,  or  in  possession  in  excess  of  the  said  number,  and  in  case 
of  conviction  all  such  moose,  caiubou  or  deer,  or  the  carcasses  or  parts 
thereof,  shall  be  decreed  by  the  court  forfeited  to  the  use  of  the  party 
prosecuting.  Any  person  having  in  possession  more  than  the  aforesaid 
number  of  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  or  the  carcasses  or  parts  thereof, 
shall  be  deemed  to  have  killed  or  destroyed  them  in  violation  of  this  act. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  owning  or  having  in  possession  dogs  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  or  that  are  used  for  such 
hunting,  shall  be  liable  to  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  twenty  nor  more 
than  one  hundred  dollars. 

Sect.  3.  The  penalties  prescribed  in  this  act  may  be  recovered  in  the 
manner  provided  by  section  twenty-five  of  chapter  forty  of  the  public 
laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-eight. 

An  Act  making  Sunday  a  close  time  for  game  and  birds  of  all  kinds. 
Be  it  enacted,  <&c.,  as  follows: — 

Section  l.  Sunday  is  hereby  made  a  close  time,  on  which  day  it  shall 
not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  himt,  kill,  or  destroy  game  or  birds  of 
any  kind,  under  the  penalties  imposed  for  the  hunting,  killing,  or  de- 
stroying the  same,  during  any  close  time  now  established  by  law. 

Sect.  2.  This  act  shall  not  be  construed  to  repeal  or  diminish  the  pen- 
alties already  imposed  for  any  violation  of  the  Sunday  laws. 


TPIE  AXDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  321 

An  Act  relating  to  seizure  of  fish  and  game  under  the  fish  and  game 
laws. 

Be  it  enacted,  <&c.,  as  follows: — 

Any  person  whose  fish  or  game  has  been  seized  for  violation  of  any- 
fish  or  game  law,  shall  have  such  fish  or  game,  so  seized,  returned  to  him 
on  giving' to  the  oflicer  a  bond  with  sufticient  sureties,  residents  of  this 
state,  in  double  the  amount  of  the  fine  for  such  violation;  conditioned, 
that  if  the  final  judgment  for  such  alleged  violation  shall  be  guiity,  he 
will  within  thirty  days  thereafter  pay  such  fine  and  costs.  If  such  iier- 
son  neglects  or  refuses  to  give  such  bond  and  take  the  fish  or  game,  so 
seized,  he  shall  have  no  action  against  the  officer  for  such  seizure  or  loss 
thereof. 

An  Act  for  the  protection  of  game-fish. 

Be  it  enacted,  <£,c.,  as  follows: — 

Section  1.  No  person  shall  fish  for,  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any 
fish  in  any  waters,  except  tide  waters,  with  any  net,  seine,  weir,  or  trap, 
under  a  penalty  of  fifty  dollars  for  the  offence  and  ten  dollars  for  each 
salmon  or  landlocked  salmon,  so  taken,  caught,  killed  or  destroyed. 

Sect.  2.  No  person  shall  kill  or  destroy  any  landlocked  salmon  less 
than  nine  inches  in  length,  or  any  trout  less  tliau  five  inches  in  length, 
imder  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for  the  offence  and  fifty  cents  for  each 
and  every  landlocked  salmon  or  trout  so  killed  or  destroyed.  Any  per- 
son having  in  possession  any  landlocked  salmon  or  trout  of  less  than  the 
above  dimensions  shall  be  deemed  to  have  killed  or  destroyed  them  in 
violation  of  tlie  provisions  of  this  section. 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  have  in  possession  at  any 
one  time  for  the  purpose  of  transportation  more  than  fifty  pounds  in 
weight  of  landlocked  salmon  or  ti'out,  or  of  both  together,  nor  shall  any 
such  be  transported  except  in  the  possession  of  tlie  owner  thereof,  under 
a  penalty  of  fifty  dollars  for  the  offence,  and  five  dollars  for  each  and 
every  pmmd  of  landlocked  salmon  or  trout,  or  both  together,  so  taken, 
caught,  killed,  in  possession  or  being  transported  in  excess  of  fifty 
pounds  in  weight;  and  all  such  fisli  ti'anspoi'ted  in  violation  of  tlie  pro- 
visions of  this  section  shall  be  liable  to  seiz\ire,  on  complaint,  and  shall 
be  decreed  by  the  court  forfeited  to  the  use  of  the  party  prosecuting. 
Any  person  having  in  possession  more  than  fifty  pounds  in  weight  of  the 
fish  aforesaid,  shall  be  deemed  to  have  taken  them  in  violation  of  this 
section. 

Sect.  4.  All  penalties  imposed  by  any  of  the  sections  of  this  act  may 
be  recovered  in  the  manner  provided  by  section  twenty-six,  chajpter  sev- 
enty-five of  the  public  laws  of  1878. 

An  Act  relating  to  tlie  disposition  of  fines  and  penalties  recovered 
for  the  violation  of  the  fish  laws. 

Be  it  enacted,  <&c.,  asfolloios: — 

Section  1.  All  fines  and  penalties  hereafter  recovered  for  the  viola- 
tion of  chapters  fifty  and  seventy-five  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen 
hundred  and  seventy-eight  and  ail  acts  amendatory  thereof  and  of  all 
laws  now  in  force  in  this  state  for  the  protection  of  fish  and  game,  shall 
be  paid  one-half  to  the  complainant  and  one-half  to  any  game  and  fish 
protective  society  or  other  sportsmen's  association  which  shall  have  been 
organized  under  the  laws  of  Maine,  and  which  may  be  located  in  the 
county  where  the  said  fines  and  penalties  are  recovered;  provided,  the 
said  society  or  association  shall  expend  the  same  in  the  propagation  and 
cultivation  of  tix)ut  and  salmon  for  the  fresh-water  lakes  and  ponds  of 
Maine,  to  be  done  under  the  direction  and  supervision  of  the  fish  com- 
missioners.   In  case  there  may  be  more  than  one  such  society  or  associa- 


322 


FAllKARS  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


tion  located  in  the  county  wbere  said  tines  and  penalties  are  recovered, 
the  fish  commissioners  sliall  designate  wliich  society  the  money  shall  be 
paid  to,  or  they  may  cause  tlie  "same  to  be  divided  between  them.  If 
there  is  no  sucli  society  or  association  in  the  county  where  ?uch  fines  and 
penalties  are  recovered,  then  such  fines  and  penalties  shall  be  paid  to  the 
state  fish  commissioners,  who  shall  appropriate  the  same  as  they  may 
deem  proper. 

Sect.  2.    All  acts  or  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act  are  hereby 


repealed. 
Sect.  3 
Sherlfl"s, 


This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved. 

deputy  sheriffs,  police  oflicers,  and  constables  are  hereby 
vested  with  all  the  powers  conferred  by  law  upon  game  wardens  and 
their  deputies,  and  shall  be  allowed  for  their  services  the  same  fees  as 
are  now  prescribed  for  sheriffs  and  their  deputies. 


CHAPTER  XXVn. 

\nitr^  trf  ^nrt{  nnix  \mn^  ¥rtp  ^rttirsiun 

Wttkti^. 

Philadelphia  to  New  York,  rail 

$2.50 

n, 

Boston   (steamer),    state-room    and 

meals  included 

8.00 

New  York  to  Boston,  all  rail       .... 

5.00 

(( 

"        boat  and  cars 

4.00 

(( 

to  Portland,  steamer,  includes  state-room, 

meals  extra 

4.00 

Boston  to  Portland,  boat 

1.00 

u 

"        cars,  ^3.00;  limited  ticket . 

2.50 

11 

Bryant's  Pond 

4.80 

c; 

Bethel 

5.15 

n 

Gorham 

5.80 

i; 

Groveton 

6.80 

(; 

North  Stratford    ......        o 

7.50 

n 

Farmington 

5.25 

a 

Phillips 

6.00 

a 

Greenvale 

8.75 

a 

Rangeley  Outlet 

9.75 

i; 

Andover 

6.30 

i; 

Middle  Dam,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge 

10.00 

(; 

Upper  Dam,  via        "                    *' 

10.75 

(( 

Indian  Rock,  via      ''                    " 

11.75 

(; 

Dixville  Notch,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge, 

10.00 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook 

1.00 

Colebrook  to  Dixville  Notch 

1.50 

(I 

Errol  Dam 

2.50 

Dixville  Notch  to  Errol  Dam 

1.50 

Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.  H.,  stage     . 

3.00 

Lakeside 

,  Cambridge,  N.  H.,  to  Sunday  Cove,  Mid- 

die  Dam  Carry,  steamer 

1.00 

Lakeside 

,  Cambridge,  N.  H.,  to  Errol  Dam,  steamer 

323 

1.50 

324 


FAREAE'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


2.00 
1.50 
1.00 
1.50 
2.00 
2.50 
3.00 
2.00 


1.00 


1.00 


Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.  H.,  to  Magalloway  River, 
Steamboat  Landing 

Wentworth's  Location  to  Aziscohos  Falls,  stage 

Aziscohos  Falls  to  Narrows,  steamer 

"  "  Lower  Metallak  Pond,  steamer 

"  "  Meadows,  steamer 

"  "  Upper  Metallak  Pond,  steamer 

"  '*  Big  Island,  steamer    . 

Big  Island  to  Parmachenee  Lake,  team    . 

Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Middle  Dam  Carry 
steamer, 

Errol  Dam  to  Magalloway  River,  Steamboat  Land- 
ing   

Steamboat  Landing,  Magalloway  River  to  Sunday 
Cove,  Middle  Dam  Carry       .... 

Crossing  Middle  Dam  Carry  on  buckboard 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  stage 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  buckboard     . 

South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  steamer   . 
"  Upper  Dam,  steamer 

"  Mill  Brook,  steamer 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam,  steamer  . 

"  Mill  Brook,  steamer       .        .        , 

Farmington  to  Phillips,  cars        .... 

Phillips  to  Green  vale,  stage         .... 

Greenvale  to  Oquossoe  Outlet,  steamer 

Indian  Rock  to  Upper  Dam,  steamer  . 

Glen  House  (White  Mountains)  to  Andover.  Stage 
to  Gorham,  rail  to  Bryant's  Pond,  stage  to  And- 
over          

Glen  House  (White  Mountains)  to  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog.  Stage  to  Gorham,  rail  to  Bethel, 
stage  to  Cambridge 

Glen  House  (White  Mountains)  to  Dixville  Notch. 
Stage  to  Gorham,  rail  to  Bethel,  stage  to  Cam- 
bridge, Lake  Umbagog,  steamer  to  Errol  Dam, 
Concord  wagon  to  Notch 


1.50 
1.00 
1.50 
1.50 

.50 
1.00 
1.50 

.75 
1.00 
1.00 
1.50 
1.00 
1.00 


3.50 


4.75 


6.75 


THE  ANDROSCOGGrN"  LAIvES.  325 


List  of  Round  Trip  Excursion  Tickets  issued  by  the 
different  Railroad  Companies,  between  Boston  and 
the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Andover,  Cambridge,  N. 
H.,  Lake  Umbagog,  Dixville  Notch,  Parmachenee 
Lake,  and  other  prominent  points. 

The  Androscoggin  Lakes  Transportation  Company  have 
made  arrangements  with  the  different  raih-oad  companies  for 
the  issue  of  the  following  excursion  tickets  for  the  season  of 
1888,  at  reduced  rates  of  fare.  These  tickets  are  good  from 
the  time  of  their  iDurchase  to  October  1st,  and  persons 
buying  them  can  stop  over  at  any  point  mentioned  on  the 
ticket  without  extra  expense. 

The  return  tickets  will  also  be  taken  on  the  steamers  up  to 
the  time  they  stop  running,  which  is  usually  about  Novem- 
ber 1st.  But  during  the  month  of  October  they  run  irregu- 
larly, and  travelers  will  have  to  find  out  the  days  the  boats 
run,  which  they  can  easily  do,  and  govern  themselves  accord- 
ingly. The  stages  will  also  take  the  tickets  until  November 
1st,  on  their  regular  days  of  running.  The  time  given  as 
necessary  to  make  one  of  the  following  excursions  is  the 
quickest  time  it  can  be  done  in,  traveling  by  regular  convey- 
ances, and  in  the  easiest  manner.  If  one  chooses  to  turn  a 
pleasant  excursion  into  hard  work,  and  travel  at  unreasona- 
ble hours,  and  by  irregular  conveyances,  most  of  the  trips 
can  be  made  quicker.  On  the  other  hand,  if  persons  stop 
over  at  different  points  on  the  routes,  as  the  tickets  allow 
them  to  do,  the  time  will  be  lengthened.  The  author  has 
been  over  every  route  mentioned  in  this  chapter,  and  there  is 
not  one  but  offers  inducements  to  persons  to  "stop  over"  at 
different  places  if  they  have  the  time  at  their  disposal. 

No.  1.— Boston  to  Andover,  Me.,  and  return. 

Distance,  382  miles;  time,  2  days;  cost,  $10.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Eailroad. 
Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Kailway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Ketum  same  way. 

"So.  3.— Boston  to  Lakeview  Cottage,  South  Arm,  Me.,  via  Bryant's 
Pond  and  Andover,  and  return. 

Distance,  406  miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $12.50. 


326  FAERAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 


Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Kailroad. 

rortland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  Lakeview  Cottage,  South  Arm,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Eetum  same  way. 

No.  3.— Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Lake  "Welokennebacook,  Me.,  via  Bry- 
ant's Pond  and  Andover,  and  return. 

Distance,  414  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $12.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad 
Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Return  same  way. 

So.  4.— Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  N.  H., 
Lake  Umbagog,  and  return. 

Distance,  450  miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $13.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove,  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  5.— Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog.    Return  via  Andover  and  Bryant's  Pond. 

Distance,  436  miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $13.25. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  South  Arm,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

South  Arm  to  Andover,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Andover  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  6.— Reverse  of  No.  5;  cost,  $13.25. 

No.  7.— Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Ando- 
ver.   Return  via  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H. 

Distance,  513  miles;  time  4  days;  cost  $17.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L,  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Middle  Dam  to  Sundav  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Sundav  Cove  to  Errol'Dam,  A.  L,  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Errol  Dam  to  Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 
North  Stratford  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 
No.  8.— Reverse  of  No.  7;    cost  $17.50. 

No.  9.— Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Ando- 
ver.   Return  via  Dixville  Notch  and  Concord,  N.  H. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  327 

Distance,  506  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $17.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tattle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Ami,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Ei-rol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

EiTol  Dam  (tlrrough  Dixville  Notch)  to  Colebrook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Groveton  Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Concord  to  Boston,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 

No.  10.— Reverse  of  No.  9;    cost  $17.50. 

No.  11. — Boston  to  INfiddle  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via 
Andover.    Return  via  Dixville  Notch  and  Concord,  N.  H. 

Distance,  404  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $17.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Audover,  Turtle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stjige. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T. 
Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Errol  Dam  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Colebrook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Groveton  Junction  Grand  Trank  Railway. 

Groveton  Junction  to  Concord,  N.  H.,  Boston,  Concord  '&  Montreal 
Railroad. 

Concord  to  Lawrence,  Concord  Railroad. 

LawTcnce  to  Boston,  I5oston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  13. — Reverse  of  No.  11 ;  cost  $17.50. 

No.  13. — Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Bos- 
ton, Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad,  and  Dixville  Notch.  Return  via 
Lake  Umbagog,  Cambridge,  and  Bethel. 

Distance  524  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost  $19.50. 

Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 

Concord  to  Groveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 

Groveton  Junction  to  Nortli  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Sunday  Cove,  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  to  Bethel,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  14.— Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Mc.,via  Bethel 
and  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog.  Return  via  Dixville  Notch  and  the 
White  Mountains. 

Distance,  561  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $20.10. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Tnink  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 


32S  FARE  All' S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A,  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  ErrolDam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

En-ol  bam  to  Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Groveton  Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Eailway. 

Groveton  Junction  to  Fabyan's,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 

Fabyan's  to  Portland,  Portland  &  Ogdensburg  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

No,  15. — Revei'se  of  No.  14;  cost,  $20.10. 

No.  16. — Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Con- 
cord and  Dixville  Notch,  N.  IL,  and  return. 

Distance,  574  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $22.00. 
Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Groveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  Nortli  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  s>tage. 

Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  17. — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,    Lake  Molechunkamunk,  Me.,   via 
Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover,  and  return. 

Distance,  430  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $13.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pondto  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  18. — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Bethel 
and  Cambridge,  and  return. 

Distance,  464  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost  $15.50. 
Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Return  same  way 

No.  19. — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Ando- 
ver.   Return  via  Cambridge  and  Bethel. 

Distance,  453  miles;  time,  4  days:  cost,  $14.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond'to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Ai*m,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A."L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Bethel,  A.  T^.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Bethel  to  Portland,"Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 


TIIE  xiXDEOSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  329 


No.  30.— Reverse  of  No.  19;  cost  $14.50. 

No.  21. — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  and  Dix- 
ville  Notch,  via  Audover,  and  return. 

Distance,  49G  miles;  time,  5  days;  cost,  $19.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond'to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Suntlay  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  ErrorDam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

EiTol  Dam  to  Dixville  Notch,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  23.— Boston  to  Indian  Rock,  Me.,  via  Bryai  fc's  Pond  and  Andover, 
and  return. 

Distance,  450  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $14.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond'to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 

Return  same  way. 

No.    33.— Boston   to  Indian   Rock,   Me.,   via   Andover.     Return  via 
Phillips. 

Distance,  472  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $15.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond'to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  exiDcnse   for   trans- 
porting baggage. 

Upper  Dam  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 

Walk  across  carry  two  miles  from  Oquossoc  Lake. 

Oquossoc  Outlet  to  Rhngeley  or  Greenvale,  steamer. 

Rangeley  or  Greenvale  to  Phillips,  stage. 

Phillips  to  Farmington,  Sandy  River  Railroad. 

Farmington  to  Portland,  Maine  Central  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  34.— Reverse  of  No.  23;  cost,  $15.50. 

No.  35. — Boston  to  Indian  Rock,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog. 

Distance,  486  miles;  time  4  days;  cost,  $17.00. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  IMaine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Uml)agog,  A.'L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Middle  Dam -to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eightli  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 

Return  same  way. 


330  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

No.  26. — Boston  to  Indian  Rock,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog.    Return  via  Andover  and  Bryant's  Pond. 

Distance,  472  miles;  time  4  days;  cost,  $16.25. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.'L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

One-eigbth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 
Indian  Rock  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  steamer. 

One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  South  Arm,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
South  Arm  to  Andover,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Andover  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Tuttle's  stage. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Portland  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  37.— Reverse  of  No.  26;  cost,  $16.25. 

No.  38. — Boston  to  Bemis  Stream,  Me.,  via  Bryant's  Pond,  Andover, 
and  Upper  Dam  and  return. 

Distance,  444  miles;  time  4  days;  cost,  $14.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Tnink  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pondto  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Bemis  Stream,  steamer. 

Retui'n  same  way. 

No.  39. — Boston  to  Bemis  Stream,  Me.,  I'ia  Bethel,  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog,  Middle  Dam,  Upper  Dam,  and  return. 

Distance,  472  miles;  time,  4 days;  cost,  $17.00. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Betliel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.  's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eiglitli  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Bemis  Stream,  steamer. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  30.— Boston  to  Bemis  Stream,  Me.,  via  Bryant's  Pond,  Andover, 
and  Upper  Dam.  Return  via  Upper  Dam,  Middle  Dam,  Lake  Umbagog, 
Cambridge,  and  Bethel. 

Distance,  467  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $16.25. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond'to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 
Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  ^Velokeniiebacook,  stage. 
South  Ann  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Exti-a  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Bemis  Stream  steamer. 


TIIE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAIvES.  331 

Bemis  Stream  to  Uppei*  Dam  Landing,  steamer. 
One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  trans- 
porting baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog  to  Bethel,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Bethel  to  Portland  Grand  Trunk  Kailway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  and  Maine  Eailroad. 

No.  31.— Eeverse  of  No.  30;  cost,  $16.25. 

No.  33. — Boston  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  and  return. 

Distance,  416  miles;  time,  2  days;  cost,  $12.00. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Eailroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Eailway. 

Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Go's  stage. 

Eeturn  same  way. 
No.  33. — Boston  to  Errol  Dam,  Lake  Umbagog,  and  return. 
Distance,  532  miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $19.00. 

Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Eailroad. 
Concord  to  Groveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  Nortli  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Eailway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 
Colebrook  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  34. — Boston  to  Magalloway  (Wentworth's  Location)  and  return, 
via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog. 

Distance,  466  miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $14.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Eailway. 

Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T  .Co.'s  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Magalloway,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Eeturn  same  way. 

No.  35. — Boston  to  Magalloway,  ("Wentworth's  Location)  and  return, 
via  Bryant's  Pond  and  Audover. 

Distance,  458  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $16.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Eailroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Ti'unk  Eailway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co's  stage. 

Simday  Cove  to  MagailOAvay,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Eeturn  same  way. 
No.  36. — Boston  to  Magalloway  (Wentworth's  Location),  via  Bryant's 
Pond  and  Andover.    Eeturn  via  Lakeside,  Cambridge  and  Bethel. 
Distance,  488  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost.  $17.25, 
Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Eailway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle's  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm  Lake  Welokennebacook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Magalloway.  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Magalloway  to  Lakeside.  Cambridge,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Lakeside,  Cambiidge,  N.  11.,  to  Bethel,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Eailway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  and  Maine  Eailroad. 


332  FAliEMl'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 

No.  37.— Boston  to  Majralloway  (Wentworth's  Location),  via  Xorth 
Stratford  and  Colebrook,  and  return. 

Distance,  5S6  miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $16.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Nortli  Stratiord,  Grand  Trimk  Railway. 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  (throu?:h  Pixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam.  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Errol  Dam  to  Magalloway  River  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  38.— Boston  to  Magalloway  (Wentworth's  Location),  via  Boston 
Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad,  and  Dixville  Notch.  Return  via  Lake 
Umbagog,  Cambridge,  Bethel,  and  Grand  Tnink  Railway. 

Distance,  518  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost  $19.00. 

Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Groveton  .Junction,  Boston.  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook,  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
EiTol  Dam  to  Magalloway  River  Landing,  A .  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Magalloway  River  Landing  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s 
steamers. 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  to  Bethel,  A.  L.  T,  Co.'s  stage. 
Bethel  to^Portlaud,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  39.— Boston  to  Aziscohos  Falls  and  return,  via  Bethel,  Me.,  and 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.  H. 

Distance,  484 miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $17.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Tnmk  Railwav. 
Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.  II.,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Magalloway  River  Landing,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s 
steamer. 
Magalloway  River  Landing  to  Aziscohos  Falls,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Return  same  way. 
No.  40.— Boston  to  Colebrook,  N.  H.,  via  Bethel,  Cambridge,   Lake 
Umbagog,  Dixville  Notc-b,  and  return. 

Distance  49G  miles ;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $17.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

En-ol  Dam  to  Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Return  same  way. 
No.  41.— Boston  to  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge, 
Lake  Umbagog.    Retui'n  via  Colebrook. 

Distance,  504  miles;  time, 4  days;  cost,  $17.00. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Lakeside,  Cambridsre,  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

EiTol  Dam,  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Colebrook,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  43.— Reverse  of  No.  41,  cost  $17.00. 

No.  43.— Boston  to  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H.,  and  return,  via  Bethel  and 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog. 


THE  AXDHOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  333 

Distance,  470  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $15.00. 

Boston  to  Portland.  Boston  and  Maine  Eailroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Paihvay. 

Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Unibago^,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  to  Eri'ol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Errol  Dam  to  Dixville  Notch,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Return  same  "nay. 

No.  44. — Boston  to  Dixville  Notch,  N.  H.,  via  Boston,  Concord  &  Mon- 
ti'eal  Railroad.    Return  via  Lake  Umbagog,  Cambridge  and  Bethel. 

Distance,  494  miles;  time  4  days;  cost,  $17.50. 

Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 

Concord  to  Groveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Monti'eal  Railroad. 

Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  to  Dixville  Notch,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Dixville  Notch  to  Errol  Dam,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

EiTolDam  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog  to  Bethel,  A.  L.  T.  Co.'s  stage. 

Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

Tickets  for  Excursions  Nos.  1,  2,3,4,5,6,7,8,  9,10,  11,12,  13,  14,  15, 
17,  18,  19,  20,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25,  26,  27,  2:),  30,  31,  32,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  40,  41, 

42,  43  and  44,  are  issued  by  the  Grand  Thunk  Railway,  and  may  be 
obtained  in  Boston  at  the  New  England  Office,  280  Washington  street. 
Persons  purchasingtickets  of  tlie  Grand  Trunk  issue  have  the  privilege 
of  travelling  between  Boston  and  Portland  on  either  the  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroad,  or  Portland  steamers.  Wlien  persons  travel  by  steamer 
eac/i  ?ya7/ between  Boston  and  Portland,  the  ticket  costs  $1.00  less  than 
printed  rate.  The  same  tickets  are  also  issued  from  Portland;  rates 
$3.00  less  than  from  Boston.  Ticket  offices  in  Portland  on  Exchange 
sti'eet,  and  at  depot,  foot  of  India  street.  From  Lewiston  $4.00  less  tlian 
fi'om  Boston.    Ticket  office  in  Lewiston  at  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Depot. 

Excursion  tickets  Nos.  1,  2,  3, 4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9, 10, 11, 12. 13, 14, 15,  16,  17,  18, 

19,  20,21,22,  23,  24,  25,  26,  27,  28,  2-),  30,  31,  32,  34,  35,  36,   37,  38,  39,    41,  42, 

43,  and  44  are  issued  by  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  and  may  be 
obtained  at  either  of  the  depots,  Haymarket  square,  head  of  Washington 
sti^eet;  also  at  the  depots  of  the  company  in  Lowell,  Lawrence,  Haver- 
hill, Newmarket  Junction,  Exeter,  Dover,  and  at  the  up-town  office,  306 
Washington  street,  and  at  the  depot  on  Causeway  street,  opposite  Friend ; 
Lynn,  Salem,  Newburyport,  and  Portsmoutli;  also  at  Union  depot,  Wor- 
cester,  and  at  depots  in  Nashua  and  Rocliester.  Rates  from  Worcester 
$1.50  more  than  from  Boston. 

Excursion  tickets  Nos.  13,  14,  22,  26,  27,  28  and  40,  are  issued  by 
the  Boston  &  Loavell  Railroad,  and  may  be  obtained  in 
Boston  at  the  company's  office,  No.  218  Washington  street,  and  at 
the  Boston  &  Lowell  Railroad  depot.  Causeway  street;  also  at  the 
depots  of  the  company  at  Concord,  Plymouth,  Fabyan's,  Profile  House 
and  Lancastei'. 

Excursion  tickets  Nos.  1, 2, 3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,  17,  18,  19, 

20,  21,  22,  23.  24,  25,  26,  27,  28,  29,  30,  31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  39,  40,  41,  42,  43, 
and  44,  are  issued  by  the  Providence  &  Worcester  Railroad  Com- 
pany, from  Providence  and  are  for  sale  at  the  depots  and  offices  of  the 
company  in  Providence.  Rates  from  Providence  $1.50  more  than  from 
Boston. 

Excursion  tickets  Nos.  1,  2, 3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17,  18,  19 » 
20,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25,  26,  27,  28,  29,  30,  31,  32,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  40,  41,  42,  43. 
and  44,  are  issued  by  the  Portland  Steam-Packet  Company, 
and  are  for  sale  in  Boston  at  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Office,  280  Wash- 
ington sti-eet,  and  on  board  tlie  company's  steamers  at  India  Wharf. 


334  FARRAR^S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE    TO 


Excursion  tickets  Nos.  23  and  24  are  issued  by  the  Maine  Central 
Railroad  from  Portland,  Lewiston,  Brunswick,  Bath,  Augusta,  Water- 
ville,  and  Bangor,  and  are  for  sale  at  the  company's  olhces  in  those 
places. 

The  Norwich  and  New  York  Transportation  Company  also 
sell  Excursion  Tickets  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes  region  from  New  York 
City,  over  the  "Norwich  Line,"  and  tiie  New  York  &  New  England 
Railroad,  who  have  tickets  on  sale  at  Waterbury,  Hartford,  Nonvich, 
Putnam,  "Webster,  Willimantic,  Bristol,  New  Britain,  Rockville,  Dan- 
bury,  and  Southbridge.  Round-trip  tickets  are  also  sold  over  the  New 
York  &  New  England  All-rail  Route,  fiom  Washington,  Balti- 
more, Philadelphia,  and  New  York. 

The  Pennsylvania  Railroad  Company  issue  nearly  all  the  Excur- 
sion Ticket  Forms  given  in  this  chapter  to  Andover,  Bethel,  Cambridge, 
Lake  Umbagog,  the  Magalloway,  Dixville  Notch,  and  the  Androscoggin 
Lakes,  from  all  the  principal  cities  touched  by  tlieir  road,  as  well  as  the 
Philadelphia,  Wilmington  &  Baltimore,  and  Baltimore  &  Potomac  Rail- 
roads. Persons  purchasing  these  tickets  have  a  choice  of  routes  between 
New  York  and  the  Lake  Region.  See  list  of  tickets  in  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad  Excursion  Book  for  the  cm-rent  season. 

The  Philadelphia  &  Reading  Railroad  Company  issue  Round 
Trip  Excursion  Tickets  from  Philadelphia  and  other  cities  touched  by 
their  road,  to  the  Lakes,  and  they  may  be  obtained  at  any  ticket-office  of 
the  company. 

The  Providence,  Stonington,  and  Fall  River  Sound  Lines  all 
sell  Excursion  Tickets  from  New  York  to  the  Lake  Region,  and  most  of 
the  FoiTns  mentioned  in  this  chapter  can  be  obtained  at  any  of  their 
ticket-offices. 

Messrs.  Thomas  Cook  &  Son,  261  Broadway,  New  York  City,  have 
for  sale  all  the  Excursion  Tickets  mentioned  in  this  chapter  at  regular 
rates. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


(^nmt  mA  (Same- Ji^b  'gm^  of  tU  ^fate  0i  B^vc 


CHAPTER  1. 
PISH  AND  GAME  COMMISSIONERS  AND  WARDENS,  AND  THEIR  DUTIES. 

Section  1.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  shall  appoint  a 
board  of  commissioners  on  fish  and  game,  not  exceeding  three  in  number,  who 
shall  hold  their  oflSces  for  five  years  from  the  date  of  their  appointment  (unless 
sooner  removed),  for  the  purpose  of  restocking  such  of  our  waters  with  sal- 
mon, shad,  and  alewivcs  as  were  formerly  frequented  by  those  fish,  and  intro- 
ducing the  land-locked  salmon,  so  called,  black  bass,  pike  perch,  white  perch, 
white  fish,  or  any  other  desirable  fish  into  our  inland  waters,  and  enforcing  the 
laws  relating  to  fish  and  game;  and  said  board  of  commissioners  is  hereby 
authorized  to  cooperate  with  the  commissioners  of  other  States,  having  joint 
interests  with  this  State,  for  the  purpose  of  restocking  the  rivers,  streams,  and 
other  waters  with  salmon,  shad,  and  other  desirable  fish.  The  board  of  fish 
commissioners,  as  now  constituted,  is  hereby  continued,  and  invested  with  all 
the  powers  and  charged  with  all  the  duties  of  fish  and  game  commissioners 
imder  the  general  laws. 

Sect.  2.  They  shall  examine  the  principal  inland  waters  of  the  State,  and 
determine  what  new  varieties  of  fish  shall  be  introduced  into  the  several 
waters.  They  may  take  fish  of  any  kind,  at  any  time  or  in  any  manner  they 
may  choose,  for  the  purposes  of  science,  cultivation,  and  dissemination,  and 
may  permit  other  persons  to  take  fish  at  any  time  and  in  any  manner  for  the 
same  purposes,  anything  in  this  or  any  other  chapter  to  the  contrary  notwith- 
standing. 

Sect.  3.  Each  of  said  commissioners  may  personally,  or  by  deputy  appoint- 
ed in  writing  under  Lis  hand,  enforce  all  laws  relating  to  inland  fisheries,  and 
may  seize  and  remove,  summarily,  if  need  be,  all  obstructions  to  the  passage  of 
migratory  fish  illegally  used,  except  dams,  mills,  or  machinery,  at  the  expense 
of  the  person  using  or  maintaining  the  same. 

Sfct.  4.  Every  town  or  city  council  in  this  State  shall,  at  some  regular 
meeting,  choose  one  or  more  fish  and  game  wardens,  whose  duty  it  shall  be  to 
see  that  the  laws  for  the  preservation  of  fish  in  the  waters  within  the  limits  of 
such  town  or  city  or  upon  which  it  may  border,  and  also  the  laws  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  game  within  such  limits,  are  duly  observed,  and  such  wardenB 
shall  be  sworn  to  the  faithful  performance  of  their  duties. 

Sect.  5.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  fish  and  game  commissioners  to  appoint 
one  or  more  fish  and  game  wardens  in  each  town  or  city  of  this  State  including 
or  bordering  upon  any  body  of  water  in  which  trout  or  other  fish  are  prohib- 
ited from  being  taken  during  any  specified  time  or  times,  whenever  such  war- 
dens have  not  been  elected  in  such  towns  or  cities ;  said  wardens  to  hold  their 
said  appointments  until  such  town  or  city  shall  elect  such  wardens,  or  during 
the  pleasure  of  the  commissioners.  Such  wardens,  so  appointed,  shall  receive 
a  warrant  from  said  commissioners,  and  shall  be  sworn  to  the  faithful  perform- 
ance of  their  duties. 

335 


33(5  FARRAR'S    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

Sect.  6.  It  shall  be  tbe  duty  of  said  wardene  to  observe  and  examine,  and 
to  make  complaint  before  some  justice  of  the  peace  of  all  infringements  of  laws 
made  for  the  preservation  of  fish  or  game  in  their  respective  towns  or  cities, 
and  to  prosecute  the  same  to  final  judgment. 

Sect.  7.  Said  commissioners  are  hereby  empowered  to  appoint,  in  writing 
under  their  hands,  special  detectives,  not  exceeding  five  in  number,  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  the  enforcement  of  the  fish  and  game  laws  of  the  State,  at 
such  times  as  in  their  judgment  they  may  deem  nccessa/y ;  the  expense  of  said 
detectives  not  to  exceed  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  annum.  The  fish 
and  game  commissioners,  and  their  deputies  and  detectives,  and  the  wardens 
shall  have  all  the  powers  in  enforcing  the  fish  and  game  laws  of  the  State,  and 
all  laws  relating  to  fisheries,  that  are  now  vested  in  police  officers  and  consta- 
bles of  this  State. 

Sect.  8.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  fish  commissioners  to  examine  from  time 
to  time  all  waters  in  this  State  in  which  salmon  or  other  fish  have  heretofore 
been  or  may  hereafter  be  placed,  and  they  are  hereby  empowered,  by  an  order 
in  writing  duly  published  and  posted,  to  close  any  such  waters  against  all  fish- 
ing of  every  kind  lor  such  time  as  the  preservation  of  the  fish  so  placed  in  such 
waters  may  require,  not  exceeding  three  years.  A  copy  of  such  order  shall  be 
published  in  some  newspaper  printed  in  the  county,  if  any,  otherwise  in  some 
adjoining  county,  and  posted  in  two  or  more  public  places,  as  near  said  waters 
as  may  be,  in  each  town  in  which  said  waters  or  any  part  thereof  are  located, 
at  least  one  week  before  such  order  shall  be  enforced;  and  this  shall  be  sufli- 
cient  notice  in  all  cases.  Any  person  violating  this  law.  or  any  order  made 
under  it  by  said  commissioners,  shall  be  fined  not  exceeding  twenty  dollars,  or 
imprisoned  not  exceeding  sixty  daj-s,  or  both,  for  each  offence.  And  the  having 
in  possession  any  fish,  or  any  fishing  tackle  or  apparatus,  by  any  person  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  such  waters,  after  such  order  takes  effect,  shall  be  prima' 
facie  evidence  of  a  violation  by  such  person  of  this  law  and  of  such  order  made 
by  said  commissioners. 

Sect.  9.  Any  town  or  city  in  this  State  may,  at  any  meeting  duly  notified 
and  holden  for  that  purpose,  by  major  vote  of  such  town  or  of  the  city  govern- 
ment of  such  city,  prohibit  fishiug  in  any  waters  exclusively  in  such  town  or 
city,  for  any  period  not  exceeding  three  years,  for  the  purpose  of  stocking 
said  waters  with  any  kind  of  desirable  fish  ;  and  any  violation  of  such  prohibi- 
tion by  any  person  shall  be  prosecuted  by  the  warden,  and,  if  proved  to  the 
satisfaction  of  the  magistrate,  shall  be  punished  in  the  same  way  as  is  provided 
in  the  preceding  section. 

Sect.  10.  All  persons  are  hereby  forbidden  to  take,  catch,  or  fish  for  any 
fish  in  any  way  upon  the  Pemigewasset  river,  near  the  State  hatching-house  in 
Holdernesa,  anywhere  between  the  abutments  of  the  upper  dam  on  Livermore 
Falls,  so  called,  in  Campton,  and  a  point  on  said  river  half  a  mile  below  said 
abutments,  southerly,  measuring  by  an  air  line.  Any  person  violating  the  pro- 
visions of  this  section  shall  pay  a  fine  not  exceeding  twenty  dollars,  or  be 
imprisoned  not  exceeding  sixty  days,  or  both,  for  every  such  violation. 

Sect.  n.  All  fines  paid  under  the  provisions  of  this  chapter  shall  be  one- 
half  for  the  use  of  the  prosecutor  and  the  other  half  for  the  use  of  the  town, 
city,  or  county. 

Sect.  12.  Said  commissioners  shall  make  a  full  annual  report  to  the  gov- 
ernor and  council  of  all  their  doings,  together  with  a  statement  of  all  expenses, 
on  or  before  the  tenth  day  of  June  of  each  year.  They  shall  be  entitled  to 
receive  their  traveling  and  other  expenses  necessarily  connected  with  the  dis- 
charge  of  their  duties,  and  such  compensation  for  their  services  as  may  be 
determined  and  allowed  by  the  governor  and  council,  who  shall  audit  their 
accounts. 

Sect.  13.  Said  fish  commissioners  shall  have  full  power  and  control  of  all 
fishways  in  this  State,  and  shall  direct  when  and  for  how  many  months  in  each 
year  said  fishways  shall  be  kept  open. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  831 


CHAPTER  II. 

GA^IE    LAWS,— BIRDS. 

Section  1.  If  any  person  shall,  at  any  season  of  the  year,  take,  kill,  or 
destroy  any  of  the  birds  called  robins,  thrushes,  larks,  bluebirds,  sparrows, 
finches,  buntings,  martins,  orioles,  swallows,  fly-catchers,  warblers,  tanagers, 
bobolinks,  vireos,  nut-hatches,  creepers,  wood-peckers,  humming-birds,  or  any 
other  of  the  song  birds  or  insectivorous  birds,  he  shall  be  punished  by  n  fine  of 
five  dollars  for  each  and  every  such  bird  so  taken,  killed,  or  destroyed,  or  by 
imprisonment  not  exceeding  "thirty  days,  or  both ;  but  this  section  shall  not 
applj'  to  any  one  collecting  specimens  for  the  purpose  of  illustrating  natural 
history  in  any  educational  institution  which  supports  a  cabinet  for  that  pur- 
pose, in  charge  of  a  curator,  under  whose  direction  only  such  birds  may  be 
taken,  killed,  or  destroyed.  Any  resident  of  the  State,  over  <ighleen  years  of 
age,  with  the  sole  purpose  of  furnishing  specimens  for  a  cabinet,  may  receive 
from  the  secretarj-  of  the  board  of  ai^rlculture  a  permit  for  that  purpose  only, 
revocable  lor  good  cause,  exempting  him  from  the  provisions  of  this  section: 
Provided  he  shall  furnish  from  the  selectmen  of  the  town  or  maj-or  of  the  city 
in  which  he  resides,  a  certificate,  indorsed  by  one  of  the  fish  and  game  commis- 
sioners, or  a  member  of  the  board  of  agriculture  that  he  is  a  proper  person  to 
receive  such  a  permit. 

Sect.  2.  If  any  person  shall,  between  the  first  day  of  February  and  the  first 
day  of  August  of  each  year,  take,  kill,  or  destroy  any  of  the  birds  called  plover, 
yeliow-legs,  sandpipers,  woodcock,  ducks,  or  rails,  or  shall,  between  the  first 
day  of  February  and  the  first  daj'  of  September  of  each  year,  take,  kill,  or  de- 
stroy any  rultl'd  grouse,  partridges,  or  quails,  or  shall,  within  the  respective 
times  aforesaid,  sell,  buy,  or  have  in  possession  any  of  said  birds,  he  shall  be 
punished  by  a  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  bird  so  taken,  killed,  or  destroyed, 
bought,  sold,  or  had  in  possession,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  sixty 
da.vs,  or  both. 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall,  at  any  time  or  place  within  this  State,  take  any 
grouse,  partridge,  or  quail,  with  any  trap  or  snare;  and  any  person  so  oftend- 
ing  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  bird  so  taken,  or  by 
imprisonment  not  exceeding  sixty  days,  or  both.  The  penalties  provided  in 
this  and  the  two  preceding  sections  shall  be  one-half  for  the  use  of  the  prose- 
cutor and  the  other  half  for  the  town,  city,  or  county. 

Sect.  4.  Any  person  or  persons,  corporation  or  company,  owning  or  occu- 
pying land,  may  forbid  the  destruction  of  birds  on  the  same,  at  any  season  of 
the  year,  by  posting  a  printed  or  written  notice  to  that  effect,  in  two  public 
places  la  the  town,  and  also  on  the  lands  ;  and  any  person  taking  or  destroying 
birds  on  such  land,  in  defiance  of  eaid  prohibition,  shall  be  subject  to  a  penalty, 
for  the  use  of  the  owner  or  occupier  of  such  land,  of  one  dollar  for  each  bird  so 
destroyed,  in  addition  to  the  penalties  named  in  the  preceding  sections,  which 
may  be  recovered  in  the  same  proceeding  in  which  the  fine  is  assessed. 

Sect.  5.  If  any  person  shall  designedly  take  from  the  nest  and  destroy  the 
eggs  or  young  of  any  of  the  birds  called  robins,  thrushes,  larks,  bluebirds, 
sparrows,  martins,  woodpeckers,  bobolinks,  yellow-birds,  linnets,  flycatchers, 
or  warblers,  snipes,  woodcock,  plover,  rails,  yellow-legs,  or  sandpipers,  par- 
tridges, grouse,  quails,  or  wild  pigeons,  he  shall  forfeit  and  pay  for  every  egg 
or  young  of  any  of  said  birds  so  taken  and  destroyed,  the  sum  of  two  dollars, 
to  the  use  of  the  prosecutor. 

CHAPTER    III. 

GAME   LAWS, — ANIMALS. 

Section  1.  If  any  person  shall,  between  the  first  day  of  December  of  each 
year  and  the  first  day  of  September  in  the  year  following,  by  shooting,  trapping, 
or  otherwise,  capture,  kill,  or  destroy  any  deer,  moose,  or  caribou  within  the 
'limits  of  this  State,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  not  less  than  twenty-five 
dollars  nor  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  every  such  animal  so  captured,  killed,  or 
destroyed,  or  by  impnsouraeut  not  exceeding  six  months,  or  both. 


338  FARRAR'S    ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE   TO 

Sect.  2.  If  any  pcraon  shall,  In  any  way,  between  the  first  day  of  April  and 
the  fifteenth  day  of  October,  in  any  year,  kill  or  destroy  any  mink,  beaver, 
eable,  otter,  or  fisher,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  twenty-five  dollars  for 
each  animal  so  killed  or  destroyed,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  sixty 
days,  or  both. 

Sect.  3.  If  any  person  shall,  between  the  first  day  of  January  and  the  first 
day  of  September,  in  any  year,  take,  kill  or  destroy  any  raccoon  or  coon,  or 
grey  squirrel,  he  shall  ba  punished  by  a  fine  of  five  dollars  for  each  animal  so 
killed  or  destroyed,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceedinj^  thirty  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  4.  If  aiiy  person  shall  in  any  way,  kill  or  destroy  any  of  the  animals 
known  as  hares,  rabbits,  or  muskrats,  between  the  first  day  of  April  and  the 
first  day  of  September,  in  each  year  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  five  dollars 
for  every  such  offence,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  thirty  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  5.  If  any  person  phall  expose  poison  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  any 
animals,  except  rats  or  other  vermin,  in  his  own  buildings,  or  on  his  potato 
crops,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  fifty  dollars  for  every  such  offence,  or 
by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  six  months,  or  both. 

Sect.  6.  If  any  person  has  or  shall  have  In  his  possession  the  carcass  or 
hide,  or  any  part  thereof,  of  any  such  animal,  between  the  times  in  which  the 
killing  of  such  animals  is  prohibited,  it  shall  be  prima-facie  evidence  that  he 
has  hunted  and  killed  the  same  contrary  to  law. 

Sect.  7.  If  any  railroad  or  express  company,  or  other  common  carrier  in 
this  State,  or  any  of  their  servants  or  agents,  while  in  their  employ,  nhall  have 
in  their  possession,  for  transportation  or  any  other  purpose,  any'of  the  birds 
mentioned  in  section  two  of  the  preceding  chapter,  or  any  of  the  animals  men- 
tioned in  section  one  of  this  chapter,  during  the  period  while  such  birds  or  ani- 
mals are  protected  by  law,  said  railroad  or  express  company  or  other  common 
carrier  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  one  hundred  dollars  for  each 
offence.  But  such  company  or  common  carrier  may  show  in  defence  that  such 
birds  or  animals  came  in  the  regular  course  of  business  into  their  possession 
for  transit  through  this  State,  from  [some  place  without  the  State,  where  the 
killing  of  the  same  was  lawful. 

Sect.  8.  All  fines,  forfeitures,  and  penalties  prescribed  in  this  chapter  shall 
be  one-half  to  the  use  of  the  prosecutor,  and  the  residue  to  the  town,  city,  or 
county  where  the  trial  and  conviction  are  had. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

FISH  LAWS,  VIOLATIONS  AND  PENALTIES. 

Section  1.  If  any  person  shall,  at  any  time,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  in  any 
manner  any  fish  in  any  pond,  reservoir,  or  spring  prepared  or  used  for  the 
purpose  of  breeding,  growing,  or  preserving  the  same,  or  from  any  brook  or 
stream  running  through  or  supplying  such  pond  or  reservoir  on  land  owned  or 
leased  for  the  purpose  aforesaid,  or  shall  break  down  any  dam  or  embankment 
of  the  same,  or  shall  in  any  way  poison  or  pollute  such  water,  or  ehall  place 
therein  any  fish,  or  the  roe,  spawn,  or  fry  of  the  same  without  permission  of 
the  owner  or  lessee  of  the  land  upon  or  through  which  such  waters  stand  or 
flow,  he  shall  for  every  such  offence  be  fined  not  exceeding  fifty  dollars,  or  be 
Imprisoned  not  exceeding  six  months,  or  both;  provided,  that  'said  owners  or 
lessees  shall  port  in  at  least  two  conspicuous  places  on  said  land  a  notice,  with 
the  words,  "reserved  for  fish  culture  or  preservation;  trespass  forbidden," 
plainly  painted,  printed,  or  written  thereon,  and  keep  the  same  thus  posted. 
This  section  shall  be  interpreted  to  apply  only  to  such  ponds,  streams,  or 
springs  aft  are  wholly  within  the  control  of  some  person  owning  the  land 
around  the  same,  who  has  made  some  improvement  or  expended  money  or 
labor  in  stocking  the  same  with  fish  for  his  own  use. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIX  LAKES.  33i) 

Sect.  2.  If  any  person  shall,  at  any  time,  take,  catch,  kill,  destroy,  or  fish 
for  any  salmon,  trout,  lake-trout,  land-locked  or  fresh-water  salmon,  grayling, 
bass,  striped  bass,  pike,  pike  perch,  white  perch,  pickerel,  muskallonge,  or 
smelts  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State,  in  any  other  manner  or  with  any  other 
device  than  the  ordinary  way  of  angling  with  a  single  hook  and  line,  with  bait, 
artificial  fly  or  ppoon,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  thirty  dol- 
lars for  each  olfence,  or  by  imprisonment  not  less  than  thirty  days,  or  both,  and 
a  further  penalty  of  not  less  than  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  caught,  taken,  or 
killed. 

Sect.  3.  All  boats,  nets,  seines,  trawls,  spears,  fishing-tackle,  or  other  im- 
plements used  in  taking  or  catching  fish  in  violation  of  law,  shall  be  forfeited, 
and  may  be  seized  bj"  any  fish-warden,  constable,  police  officer,  or  selectman, 
and  shall  be  held,  proceeded  with,  and  disposed  of  as  provided  bj'  law  in  other 
cases  of  forfeiture  of  goods,  except  that  all  spears  and  trawls  shall  be  immediately 
destroyed  bj'  the  person  seizing  the  same. 

Sect.  4.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  take,  catch,  kill,  or  have  in 
his  possession  rmy  land-locked  or  fresh-water  salmon,  lake-trout,  brook  or 
speckled  trout.in  or  from  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State,  from  the  thirtieth  day 
of  September  of  any  year  to  the  thirtieth  day  of  April  next  following  {except 
that  lake-trout  maj'  be  taken,  with  single  hook  and  line  only,  during  the  months 
of  January,  February,  March,  and  April;  and  any  person  so  oftending  shall  be 
fined  not  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  each  fish  so  taken  or  had  in  possession,  or 
imprisoned  not  more  than  six  months,  or  both. 

Sect.  5.  If  any  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  pike,  perch, 
or  white  perch,  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State  during  the  months  of  May  and 
June,  or  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  black  bass  between  the  thirtieth 
day  of  April  and  the  fifteenth  day  of  .Tune,  in  any  year,  he  shall  forfeit  and 
pay  the  sum  of  ten  dollars  for  each  fish  so  caught,  killed,  taken,  or  bad  in 
possession,  or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Skct.  6.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  catch,  take  kill,  or  destroy 
any  muskallonge,  pickerel,  pike,  or  grayling  in  anj'  of  the  waters  of  this  State, 
during  the  mouths  of  April  and  May  of  any  year,  and  anj^  person  so  oflfending 
shall  pay  a  fine  of  not  more  than  twenty  dollars  for  each  fish  so  caught,  taken, 
killed,  or  had  in  possession,  or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  sixty  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  7.  If  any  person,  within  five  years  from  the  fourteenth  of  June, 
eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-seven,  shall  catch  or  kill  any  salmon  or  young 
salmon,  known  as  parr,  smolts,  or  grilse,  or  any  shad,  in  the  waters  of  the 
Merrimac  or  Connecticut  rivers,  or  any  tributary  of  either  of  said  rivers,  he 
shall  be  fined  fifty  dollars  for  each  fish  so  caught  or  killed,  or  be  imprisoned 
not  more  than  six  months,  or  both.  Nor  shall  young  salmon,  known  as  parr, 
smolts,  or  grilse,  be  caught  or  killed  in  any  of  the  waters  of  the  State  after  the 
expiration  of  said  time,  under  the  penalty  herein  provided. 

Sect.  8.  The  taking  or  catching  of  any  alewives  or  lamper-eels,  in  the  said 
waters,  is  also  prohibited  during  the  same  period,underapenalty  of  ten  dollars 
for  each  fish  or  eel  so  caught  or  killed. 

Sect.  9.  If  any  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  white  fish, 
black  bass,  land-locked  or  fresh-water  ealmon,  grayling,  pike,  perch,  or  any 
other  variety  of  fish  which  have  been  or  may  be  introduced  by  the  fish  commis- 
sioners, their  agents,  or  any  person  authorized  by  them,  in  any  of  the  waters 
of  this  State,  within  five  jears  from  their  introduction  into  the  said  several 
waters,  he  shall  forfeit,  and  pay  for  each  fish  taken,  caught,  killed,  or  de- 
stroyed, the  sum  of  ten  dollars,  or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days, 
or  both. 

Sect.  10.  Any  person  who  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  fish  in 
any  of  the  waters  of  this  State,  by  the  use  of  any  poisonous,  deleterious,  or 
explosive  substances,  shall  be  fined  not  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  each  ofl'ence, 
or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  11.  If  any  person  shall  erect  or  maintain  any  dam  or  weir  upon  the 
Connecticut,  Merrimack,  Peraigewasset,  Ammonoosuc,  Winnipesaukee,  or 
Baker's  rivers,  or  any  tributary  of  said  rivers,  without  providing  a  suitable 
fish-way,  to  be  approved  by  the  fish  commissioners,  or  shall  not  keep  open  said 
fish-way  at  any  and  all  times,  and  for  so  many  months  in  each  year  as  said 


340  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE  TO 

fish  commissioners  shall  direct,  he  shall  he  fined  fifty  dollars  for  each  day's 
continuance  of  such  dam  or  weir,  or  neglect  to  keep  open  such  fishway ;  ■pro- 
vided, that  the  commissioners  on  fisheries  for  this  State  shall  have  given  notice, 
in  writing,  to  the  owners  or  lessees  of  dams  on  said  rivers  and  their  tributaries, 
that  in  their  opinion  the  public  good  requires  the  establishment  and  imme- 
diate building  of  suitable  tishways,  and  the  owners  of  dams  shall  be  allowed 
Bix  months  from  the  date  of  the  notice  of  the  commissioners  on  fisheries  in 
which  to  erect  and  complete  such  fishwaj's,  before  they  shall  be  liable  to  any 
fine  or  action  for  neglect  to  build  or  keep  open  such  fishways. 

Sect.  12.  The  approval  of  the  fish  commissioners  of  fishways  over  any  dam 
in  this  State,  shall  not  be  construed  to  exonerate  the  owners  of  such  tishways 
from  the  obligation  to  modify  those  eo  appro^•ld,  or  to  build  others  when 
necessary  to  make  them  suitable,  when  required  by  such  commissioners. 

Sect.  13.  All  fishing  whatever  within  four  hundred  yards  of  any  such  fish- 
way,  is  strictly  prohibited  under  a  penalty  of  ten  doUaVs  for  each  ofience,  or 
imprisonment  for  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  14.  The  possession  of  any  fish  during  the  time  in  which  their  capture 
is  prohibited  by  law,  whether  by  hotel- keepers,  express  companies,  or  any 
other  persons,  shall  be  deemed  prima-facie  evidence  of  violation  of  the  law, 
and  such  fish  may  be  seized  by  any  commissioner,  fish-warden,  or  constable, 
and  the  companies  or  persons  in  whose  possession  such  fish  may  be  found  shall 
be  liable  to  all  the  penalties  heretofore  provided  for  such  violations  in  their 
respective  sections. 

Sect.  15.  No  person  shall  put  any  of  the  fish  called  pickerel  or  pike,  or  the 
roe,  fry,  or  spawn  of  the  same,  into  any  of  the  public  waters  of  this  State  now 
containing  trout,  and  free  from  pike  and  pickerel,  and  any  person  violating  this 
flection  shall  be  fined  one  hundred  dollars  for  each  otfence. 

Sect.  16.  No  person  shall  catch,  preserve,  sell,  or  expose  for  sale,  within 
the  limits  of  the  iState  of  New  Hampshire,  any  lobster  between  the  fifteenth 
day  of  August  and  the  fifteenth  daj'  of  October  of  each  year;  and  from  the  said 
fifteenth  day  of  October  to  the  fifteenth  day  of  August  next  following  of  each 
year  no  lobster  shall  be  caught,  preserved,  sold,  or  exposed  for  sale,  under 
eleven  inches  in  length,  measuring  from  one  extreme  of  the  bodj'  to  the  other, 
exclusive  of  claws  or  feelers,  nor  shall  any  female  lobster  be  killed  or  de- 
stroyed while  carrying  her  spawn  or  hatching  her  young;  and  any  pcr.son  vio- 
lating any  provision  of  this  section  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  often  dollars  for 
every  lobster  so  caught,  used,  sold,  or  exposed  for  sale,  as  aforesaid. 

Sect.  17.  No  person  shall  take  oysters  from  Great  Baj-,  in  the  county  of 
Rockingham,  or  any  of  its  tributaries,  during  the  months  of  June,  July,  and 
August,  nor  shall  any  person  dredge  for  oj'sters  through  holes  cut  in  the  ice 
during  any  month  in  the  year,  unless  said  oysters  have  been  bedded  in  said 
hay,  or  its  tributaries,  by  the  person  so  taking  or  dredging  for  them;  and  any 

Eerson  violating  the  provisions  of  iliis  section  shall  be  fined  not  more  than  one 
undred  dollars  for  each  offence. 

Sect.  18.  No  person,  not  a  citizen  of  this  State  and  resident  therein,  shall 
take  by  seine  or  net  any  fish  called  herring  or  hardheads,  or  mackerel,  in  any 
waters  within  the  jurisdiction  of  this  State,  for  the  purpose  of  salting  or  barrel- 
ing the  same. 

Sect.  19.  Any  person  who  shall  violate  the  provisions  of  the  preceding 
section  shall  forfeit  for  each  ofi'ence  a  sum  not  exceeding  forty  dollars. 

Sect.  20.  Any  net  or  seine,  set  or  used  for  the  purpose  of  taking  such  fish, 
shall  be  forfeited  to  any  person  who  may  take  or  sue  for  the  same. 

Sect.  21.  All  weirs,  pounds,  stake  or  set  nets,  whicli  may  be  erected  or 
maintained  for  the  purpose  of  taking  or  trapping  fish,  in  the  waters  of  the  Pis- 
cataqua  river  and  its  tributaries,  including  the"  Great  Bay,  so  called,  shall  be 
one  mile  or  upwards  from  each  other,  the  distance  to  be  measured  from  the 
head  of  tide  water,  by  the  main  channel  of  said  rivers,  and  shall  be  kept  open 
from  the  fifteenth  of  July  to  the  first  of  April  in  the  succeeding  year,  and  fjom 
sunrise  on  Friday  morning  till  sunrise  on  Monday  morning  of  each  week  be- 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  ;^4l 

tween  the  first  of  April  and  the  fifteenth  of  July  of  each  year;  and  any  person 
or  persons  guilty  of  violating  the  provisions  of  this  section  shall  be  fined  not 
more  than  fifty  dollars,  or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  22.  it  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  catch,  kill,  keep,  or  have 
in  his  possession  any  brook  or  speckled  trout,  from  any  of  the  waters  of  this 
State,  of  a  length  less  than  four  inches,  or  any  striped  bass  of  a  length  less  than 
fifteen  inches,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for  each  fish  so  taken,  kept,  or  had  in 
possession. 

Sect.  23.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  take,  catch,  or  kill  any  of 
the  fish  known  as  fresh-water  ov  salt-water  smelts,  for  the  purpose  of  manuring 
land,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for  each  fish  so  taken  or  used. 

Sect.  24.  Nothing  in  this  chapter  shall  prohibit  the  owners  of  private 
waters  from  taking  fish  for  purposes  of  propagation,  dissemination,  or  science, 
from  such  private  waters  at  such  times  and  in  such  manner  as  may  be  most 
convenient;  but  they  shall  not  be  taken,  used,  or  sold  for  purposes  of  food 
during  the  time  when  such  captui-e  is  prohibited  by  law. 

Sect.  25.  All  fines,  penalties,  and  forfeitures,  imposed  and  incurred  under 
the  provisions  of  this  chapter,  shall  go  one-half  to  the  use  of  the  complainant. 
The  proceedings  for  the  punishment  of  any  violation  of  said  provisions  and  for 
the  recovery  of  any  penalty  or  forfeiture  shall  be  the  same  as  provided  by  law 
for  other  cases;  but  there  may  be  embraced  in  one  action,  complaint,  indict- 
ment, or  information,  several  offences  committed  by  the  same  person  in  taking, 
catching,  killing,  or  destroying  fish. 


ESTABLISHED   HACK-FARES   IN  BOSTON. 

For  one  or  more  adult  passengers  within  the  City  Proper,  or  from  one  place  to 
another  within  the  limits  of  South  Boston  or  of  East  Boston,  Fifty  Cents  each. 

Between  the  hours  of  11  P.M.  and  7  A.M.,  the  fare  for  one  adult  passenger 
shall  be  One  Dollar. 

For  two  or  more  such  passengers.  Fifty  Cents  each. 

For  one  adult  passenger,  from  any  part  of  the  City  Proper,  to  either  South 
Boston  or  East  Boston,  or  from  East  Boston  or  South  Boston  to  the  City  Proper, 
One  Dollar. 

For  two  or  more  such  passengers,  between  such  points,  Seventy-Five  Cents 
each. 

For  children,  between  four  and  twelve  years  of  age,  when  accompanied  by 
one  adult,  one-half  of  the  above  sums;  and  for  children  under  four  years  of  age, 
when  accompanied  by  an  adult,  no  charge  is  to  be  made. 

By  order  of  the  Board  of  Aldermen, 

S.  F.  McCLEARY, 

City  Clerk. 

Baggage.  —  One  Trunk,  a  Valise,  Box,  Bundle,  Carpet-Bag,  Basket,  or 
other  article  used  in  traveling,  shall  be  free  of  charge;  but  for  each  additional 
Trimk,  or  other  articles,  Five  Cents  shall  be  paid. 

Horse-Car  Conveyance.  —  Persons  who  travel  light,  i.^".,  with  little  bag- 
gage, can  save  Hack-Fare  in  Boston  by  taking  the  Ilorse-Cars,  which  now  run 
to  all  the  depots,  and  to  the  wharf  of  the  Portland  steamers. 

Herdic  Coaches  run  between  the  different  depots,  carrying  passengers  with 
light  baggage,  at  the  uniform  rate  of  Twenty-Five  Cents  each. 


342  FAERAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 


New  Laws  of  Interest  to  Sportsmen,  passed  by 
the  Legislature  of  1887. 

AX  ACT  to  prevent  hunting  and  the  discharge  of  fire-arms  on  the 
Lord's  Day. 
Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Section  1.  Whoever  on  the  Lord's  day  discharges  any  fire-arms  for 
sport  or  in  the  pursuit  of  game,  and  whoever  on  the  Lord's  day  shall 
carry  any  fire-arm  in  any  field,  highway,  or  private  way,  while  in  the  pur- 
suit of  game,  or  with  intent  to  discharge  the  same  in  sport,  shall  be  pim-. 
ished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  ten  dollars. 

Sect.  2.  The  provisions  of  sections  13  and  15  of  chapter  273  General 
Laws  shall  apply  to  oflences  mentioned  in  this  act. 

Sect.  3  This  act  shall  take  effect  upon  its  passage.  [Approved  July 
28,  1887.] 

AN  ACT  in  amendment  of  Section  1,  Chapter  seventy-eight  of  the  Laws 
of  1885,  relating  to  brook  or  speckled  trout. 

Be  it  enacted  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  1.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  take,  catch,  kill,  or 
have  in  Ms  possession  any  land-locked,  or  fresh-water  salmon,  lake  trout, 
brook  or  speckled  trout,  in  or  from  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State  be- 
tween the  thirtieth  day  of  September  of  any  year  and  the  first  day  of  May 
next  following,  except  that  lake  trout  may  be  taken  with  single  hook  and 
line  only,  dunng  the  months  of  January,  Febniary,  March  and  April; 
and  any  person  so  offending  shall  be  fined  not  more  than  fifty  dollars  for 
each  fish  so  taken  or  had  in  possession,  or  imprisoned  not  more  than  six 
morths,  or  both;  provided,  however,  it  shall  not  be  lawful  at  any  season 
of  the  year  for  any  person  to  take,  catch,  kill,  or  have  in  possession  at 
any  one  time  more  than  ten  pounds  of  the  fish  kno^vn  as  brook  or  speckled 
trout;  nor  shall  any  such  be  ti'ansported  except  in  the  possession  cf  the 
owner  thereof,  under  a  penalty  of  fifty  dollars  for  the  offence  and  five 
dollars  for  every  pound  of  brook  or  speckled  trout  so  taken,  caught, 
killed,  in  possession,  or  transported,  in  excess  of  ten  pounds  by  any  one 
person,  and  all  such  fish  transported  or  in  possession  in  violation  of  this 
section,  may  be  seized  on  complaint  and  shall  be  forfeited  to  the  prose- 
cutor. Any  person  having  in  his  possession  more  than  ten  pounds  of 
such  fish  shall  be  deemerl  to  have  taken  them  in  violation  of  this  section." 

[Approved  October  19, 1887.] 

AN  ACT  to  prohibit  fishing  in  certain  tributaries  of  Sunapee  Lake. 

Be  it  enacted  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  l.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  to  catch  or  take  in  any  manner  any  fish 
from  tlie  brooks  known  as  first  and  second  Pike  Brooks,  in  the  towns  of 
Newbury  and  New  London,  and  emptying  into  Sunapee  Lake,  for  the 
term  of  four  years  from  the  passage  of  this  act. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  violating  this  law  shall  be  fined  twenty  dollars 
for  each  offence  or  be  imprisoned  not  exceeding  sixty  days,  or  both;  and 
the  having  in  possession  any  fish,  fishing  tackle,  or  fishing  apparatus  by 
any  person  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  said  brooks,  or  either  of  them, 
shall  he  prima-facie  evidence  of  a  violation  of  this  law. 

Sect.  3.  This  act  shall  take  effect  from  and  after  its  passage-  [Ap- 
proved October  21, 1887.] 

AN  ACT  to  ammend  Section  2,  Chapter  179  of  the  General  Laws  relat- 
ing to  tlie  catcliiug  of  fish  in  any  other  manner  than  by  hook. 

Be  it  enacted  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  1.  Section  2,  chapter  179  of  the  General  Laws  is  hereby  amended 
by  adding  after  tlie  word  killed,  "and  the  having  in  possession  by  any 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAia:S.  343 


person  upon  any  fresh  waters  of  this  State  or  upon  the  shore  of  the  same 
any  gill  or  seine  net,  spear,  jack,  torch,  or  trawl,  shall  be  deemed  prima- 
facie  evidence  of  violation  of  the  law,"  so  that  the  section  shall  read  :  '-If 
any  person  shall  at  any  time  take,  catch,  kill,  destroy  or  fish  for  any  sal- 
mon, trout,  lake  trout,  land-locked  or  fresh-water  salmon,  grayling,'  l>as3 
pike,  pike  perch,  white  perch,  pickerel,  or  muskallonge,  in  "any  of  the 
fresh  waters  of  this  State,  in  any  other  manner  or  with  anv  other  device 
than  the  ordinary  way  of  angling  with  a  single  hook  and  line  with  bait, 
artificial  fly  or  spoon,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  tliirty 
dollars  for  each  ofi"ence  or  by  imprisonment  not  less  than  thirty  davs,  or 
both,  and  a  furtlier  penalty  of  not  less  than  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so 
caught,  taken  or  killed,  and  the  having  in  possession  by  any  person  upon 
any  fresh  vraters  of  this  State,  or  upon  the  shores  of  the  same,  any  gill  or 
seine  net,  spear,  jack,  torch  or  trawl,  shall  be  deemed  pHwa-Zacie  evidence 
of  violation  of  the  law.    [Approved  October  28, 1887.] 

AN  ACT  in  relation  to  actions. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  1.  No  action  shall  be  maintained  against  any  person  for  crossing 
imcultivated  land  to  reach  any  public  water  for  the  purpose  of  taking  fish 
unless  actual  damage  has  been  sustained. 

Sect.  2.  In  all  actions  brought  to  recover  damage  for  crossing  land  to 
reach  any  public  water  for  the  purpose  of  taking  fish,  the  costs  shall  be 
limited  to  an  amount  not  exceeding  the  damages  recovered,  if  such  dam- 
ages do  not  exceed  thirteen  dollars  and  thirty-tliree  cents. 

Sect.  3.  For  the  purposes  of  this  act,  all  natural  ponds  and  lakes  con- 
taining more  than  twenty  acres  shall  be  deemed  public  waters. 

Sect.  4.  This  act  shall  take  effect  upon  its  passage,  and  all  acts  and 
parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  the  provisions  of  this  act  are  hereby  re- 
pealed.   [Approved  October  25, 1887.] 

AN  ACT  to  amend  section  forty -eight  of  chapter  forty  of  the  Revised 
Statutes  relating  to  Black  Bass. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  48.  No  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill  or  fish  for,  in  any  manner 
any  land-locked  salmon,  trout  or  togue,  in  any  of  the  waters  aforesaid  be- 
tween said  first  days  of  October  and  the  following  May,  nor  in  the  Saint 
Croix  river  and  its  tributaries,  between  the  fifteenth  day  of  September 
and  the  first  day  of  the  following  May;  or  black  bass,  Oswego  bass  or 
white  perch,  between  the  first  d,ys  of  April  and  July,  under  a  penalty  of 
not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  "thirty  dollars,  and  a  further  fine  of  one 
dollar  for  each  fish  thus  caught,  taken  or  killed;  provided,  however,  that 
during  Febniarv,  March  and  April,  citizens  of  the  state  may  fish  for  and 
take  land-locked  salmon,  ti-out  and  togue,  and  convey  the  same  to  their 
own  homes,  but  not  otherwise;  provided,  further,  that  the  provisions  of 
this  and  the  preceding  and  two  succeeding  sections,  shall  not  apply  to  the 
taking  of  black  bass  from  any  waters  which  have  been  stocked  therewith 
for  a  period  of  five  years.    [Approved  Mar.  1, 18S7.] 

AN  ACT  to  amend  section  forty-one  of  chapter  forty  of  the  Revised 
Statutes,  relating  to  salmon. 
Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  41.  No  salmon,  shad,  or  other  migratory  fish  shall  be  taken  or 
fished  for  within  five  hundred  yards  of  any  fish-way,  dam  or  mill-race; 
nor  in  the  Penobscot  river  between  the  moiith  of  the  Kcuduskeag  stream 
and  the  water  works  dam  at  Treat's  Falls,  on  said  river;  nor  between  the 
Augusta  highway  bridge,  over  the  Kennebec  river,  and  the  Augu:-:ta  dam, 
between  the  first  days  of  April  and  November,  except  by  the  ordinary 
mode  of  angling  with  single  hook  and  line,  or  artificial  flies;  nor  shall 
hook  and  line  or  artificial  flies  be  used  at  any  time  within  one  hundred 
yards  of  any  fish-way,  dam  or  mill-race ;  but  this  section  shall  not  apply 


3U  F  ARK  All's  ILLUSTIIATED  GUIDE  TO 

to  the  taking  of  alewives  by  the  town  of  Warren  in  the  Georges  river,  and 
by  the  town  of  Waldoboro  in  the  Medomak  river,  under  tlie  autiiority 
granted  said  towns  by  the  private  and  special  laws  of  Massachusetts, 
passed  March  six,  eighteen  hundi-ed  and  two,  and  amendments  thereto 
passed  by  the  legislature  of  the  state.  The  penalty  lor  violation  of  this 
section  is  a  fine  of  not  more  tlian  fifty  nor  less  than  ten  dollars  for  each 
offence,  and  a  further  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon,  and  one  dollar 
for  each  shad  so  taken.    [Approved  March  7, 18S7.] 

AN  ACT  to  amend  chapter  two  hundred  and  sixty-two  of  the  Public 
Laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty-five,  relative  to  the  protection  of 
fish. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: — 

Sect.  1.  It  shall  be  the  dutj'-  of  all  persons  who  are  now  or  may  here- 
after derive  special  benefits  from  legislation  for  the  protection  of  fish  in 
any  waters  of  this  state,  in  excess  of  Avhat  is  or  may  be  derived  by  others, 
to  publish  such  protection  by  posting  and  maintaining  notices  substan- 
tially as  hereinafter  provided.  Said  notices  shall  be  placed  on  the  banks 
or  shores  of  such  protected  waters,  not  more  than  ten  feet  nor  less  than 
six  feet,  above  the  ground,  in  a  conspicuous  position;  and  if  on  running 
water,  such  notices  shall  be  not  more  than  one-half  mile  apart  on  the 
banks  of  such  waters;  and  if  on  a  pond  or  lake,  not  moi-e  than  one  mile 
apart  on  the  shores  of  such  pond  or  lake.    [ApiJ roved  Mar.-ih  7, 1887.] 

AN  ACT  to  amend  section  twenty -one  of  chapter  thirty  of  the  Revised 
Statutes,  as  amended  by  chapter  three  hundred  and  three  of  the  Public 
Laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty-five,  relating  to  Game  Birds. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows: 

Sect.  21.  Whoever  kills  or  has  in  his  possession,  except  alive,  or  ex- 
poses for  sale,  any  wood  duck,  dusky  duck,  commonlv  called  black  duck, 
or  other  sea  duck,  between  the  fii'St  days  of  May  and  September;  or  kills, 
sells,  or  has  in  possession,  except  alive,  any  ruffed  grouse,  commonly 
called  partridge,  or  woodcock,  between  the  first  days  of  December  and 
September  following;  or  kills,  sells,  or  has  in  possession,  except  alive, 
any  quail  between  the  first  day  of  December  and  the  first  day  of  October 
following,  or  pinnated  grouse,  commonly  called  prairie  chicken,  between 
the  first  davs  of  January  and  September,  or  plover,  between  the  first  days 
of  May  and  August,  forfeits  not  less  than  five  nor  more  than  ten  dollars, 
for  each  bird  so  killed,  had  in  possession,  or  exposed  for  sale.  And  no 
person  shall  kill,  expose  for  sale,  or  have  in  possession,  except  alive,  any 
woodcock  or  ruffed  grouse,  or  partridge  during  September,  October  or 
November,  or  any  quail  except  during  the  months  of  October  and  Novem- 
ber,  or  plover  during  the  months  of  August,  September,  October  or  No- 
vember, except  for  consumption  as  food  within  this  state,  under  the  same 
penalty.    [Approved  March  11, 1887.] 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


CONCORD  &  MONTREAL  Rl 

Formerly  the  CONCORD  R.R.  and 

BOSTON,  CONCORD  &  MONTREAL  R.R. 

NEW  ENGLAND  PASSENGER  AGENCY, 

207  Washing-ton  St.,  Boston,  ''/So^ri'S- 


THE  MERRIMACK  YALLEY  LINE 


TO  THE 


White  and  Franconia  Mountains, 

Northern  New  England,  Canada, 

and  the  WEST. 
The   WHITE   MOUNTAIN    ROUTE 

TO   THE 


H.  E.  CHAMBER  LIN,  E.  F.  MANN,  F.  E.  BROWN, 

Gen.  Traffic  Man.,         Sup.  Train  Service,       Gen.  Pass.  &  Ticket  Ag't, 
CONCORD,  N.H.  CONCORD,  N.H.  CONCORD,  N.H. 

GEORGE  W.  STORE R,  N.  E.  Pass.  Agent,  BOSTON,  MASS. 


SUMMEE  OUTINGS  IN  THE  OLD  GEANITE  STATE 

A  Guide  to  the  Lake  .in»l  31ountain  Resorts  of  New  Hampshire,  ?iTiiig  a  List  of 
Excursions,  Hotel  and  Boarding-House  List,  and  a  general  description  of  the 
section  reached  by  the  Concord  and  Jlontreal  Railroad,  will  be  mailed  to  any 
address  upon  receipt  of  six  cents  in  stamps.    Address, 

G.  W.  STORE R,  N.  E.  Pass.  Agent,  207  Washington  St.,  BOSTON. 


SL'ECIAL    NOTICES. 


PLEASURE  BOA 

and  CANOES 


T   BUILD  everything  from   a  ten-pouild 

i  canoe  to  a  21  foot  rowboat,  or  an  18x5 
cruiser.  I  have  constantly  in  stock  a  fine 
line  of  all  kinds  of  small  crafts,  and  at 
prices  from  $30  to  $300.  Also  oars,  row- 
locks, masts,  sails,  spars,  blocks,  cleats, 
folding  anchors,  etc.,  etc.  Double  blade 
canoe  paddles,  and  very  fine  single  blades 
for  night  hunting. 

FINE  DECKED  SAILING  CANOES  ALSO  A  SPECIALTY. 

Write  for  new  Illustrated  Catalogue,  and  say  ivhere 

yon  saiv  this  ad, 

J.   H.   RUSHTON, 

CANTON,    N.   Y. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


Glen  House, 

White    Mountains, 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


Open    June    2Sth,    1890. 


C.  R.  MILLIKEN  &  CO.,    -    Prop's. 


1.  For  rest  and  pleasure,  go  to  the  Glen. 

2.  For  health,  go  to  the  Glen. 

3.  To   eradicate   or   escape   Malaria,  go   to  the 

Glen. 

4.  To  escape  Hay  Fever,  go  to  the  Glen. 

5.  To  see  the  "White  Mountains,  go  to  the  Glen. 

6.  Post  Office  and  Telegraph  at  the  Glen. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


BOSTON  &  MAINE  RAILROAD. 


THE    DIKECT    KOUTE 

TO    THE 


^*"  HUNTING  EESORTS 


OF 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE,  MAINE,  and  CANADA. 


Lve 

(t 

Arr. 

Lve 

Air. 
(< 


BOSTON  (Havmarket  Square)... 

BOSTON  (Causeway  Street) 

AVORCESTER  (Union  Station). 

Poilland 

Portland 

Lewiston 


Farmington , 


Phillips 
Kingfield. 
Solon 


<( 
it 
<( 
<( 
i< 

Arr. 
Lve. 
Arr. 


Skowhegan 

Newport  Junction 

Dexter 

Dover  and  Foxcroft 

Greenville 

Mt.  Kineo  House 

Bangor 

Bangor 

Katahdin  Iron  Works.. 

Greenville 

MT.  KINEO  HOUSE 


A.M. 

S.30 
9.00 

S.io 
12.25 

2.3S 

S-oS 
6.25 
7.10 
6.21 
5.10 

5-35 
6.20 

6.S5 
9-oS 


PM 


PM 


6.30  PM 
7. 20  AM 

10.45 

12.00 


M. 


P.M. 

1. 00 

13.30 


5.00 

S-OS 
6.20 


P.M. 

5.00 

7.OQ 

2.25 
11.00 
11.20 

1 .25  AM 


P.M. 


S-30 

7.20 

10.45 

12.00 


M. 


TO  THE 


RANGELEY  (ANDROSCOGGIN)  LAKES. 

Yia  GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY. 


Lve.  BOSTON  (Haymarket  Square).. 

«'    BOSTON  (Causeway  Street) ... . 

"    WORCESTER  (Union  Station) 

Arr.  Portland 

Lve.  Portland 

Arr,  Lewiston 

'•    Brvant's  Pond 

"    Bethel 

"    GORHAM 


A.M. 

P.M. 

S.30 

1.00 

9.00 

12.30 

S.IO 

12.35  PM 

5.00 

12.45 

5.12 

I-S7 

6.30 

4-25 

7-47 

4-43 

S.07 

S-3S 

9.00 

JAS.    T.  FURBER, 

Gen.  Manager. 


D.  J.  FLANDERS, 

Gen.  Pass.  Agent. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


BOOKS  OF  TRAVEL 


THE  Passenger  Department  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad 
has  published  a  series  of  beautifully  illustrated  books, 
under  the  general  title  of  Here  and  There  in  New  England  and 
Canada.  The  first  volume,  devoted  to  the  seacoast  resorts, 
beaches,  and  islands  of  Northern  New  England,  with  appropriate 
pictures,  bears  the  title  of  All  Along  Shore.  The  second  volume 
covers  the  White  Mountains,  Kearsarge  and  Monadnock,  Wa- 
chusett  and  Holyoke,  the  Green  Mountains,  etc.,  and  is  called 
Among  the  Mountains.  The  third  is  devoted  to  the  famous 
lakes  and  fishing-streams  of  New  Hampshire  and  Maine,  with 
Lake  Champlain  and  Lake  St.  John,  and  bears  the  name  of 
Lakes  and  Streams.  The  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  Excursion 
Book,  containing  list  of  routes,  rates,  boarding-house  list,  etc., 
will  be  sent  to  all  applicants,  free  of  charge. 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  NEW  ENGLAND 

AND  CANADA 

By   M.  F.  SWEETSER. 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  H.  B.  COLBY-  F.  H.  TAYLOR,  AND  OTHERS. 
ALL     ALONG-     SHORE         I^S  pages.    eO  illustrations. 

128 Pages.    AMONG  THE  MOUNTAINS  nonius. 

96Pa.es.  64  Illustrations.    LAKES     AND     STREAMS 
Either  of  the  above  sent,  postpaid,  on  receipt  often  cents  In  stamps, 


Address, 

PASSEN&ER  DEPARTMENT,  BOSTON  &  MAINE  RAILROAD, 

BOSTON,  MASS. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


^,  lifT^^y^  ..^^r-  ^.. ;» 


.^.v^f^-,.,^  : 


THE    OTTAWA    HOUSE, 

Cushing's  Island,  Portland  Harbor, 

LJAS  iinquestionablv  one  of  the  finest  locations  to  be  found  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 
*  *■  The  island  is  full  of  interest  and  beauty.  From  its  eastern  extremity  the 
famous  "WHITE  HEAD,"  a  solid  mass  of  rock  of  majestic  proportions,  rising 
almost  vertically  from  the  sea  to  a  height  of  nearly  150  feet,  to  its  extreme  western 
limit.  Those  \vho  for  many  years  have  been  familiar  with  the  attractions  of  this 
■"  GEM  OF  CASCO  BAY  "  never  tire  of  describing  its  charms  and  sounding  its 
praises.  The  woods,  the  rocks,  the  beautiful  coves  and  bays  along  its  shore;  the 
-grand  ocean  scenerj';  the  superior  facilities  for  bathing,  yachting,  and  fishing;  tlie 
■walks,  the  drives,  the  licalthful  and  invigorating  air,  the  beautiful  villas,  and  the 
capacious  and  well-appointed  hotel  combine  to  render  this  one  of  the  mosi  perfect  of 
^seaside  resorts. 

This  hotel  was  built  in  the  spring  of  iSSS,  has  accomodations  for  three  hundred 
<^uests,  and  is  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  finest  hotels  on  the  coast  of  Alaine.  It 
is  situated  on  elevated  ground,  commanding  magnificent  views  of  the  ocean  and  bay, 
the  neighboring  islands  and  city,  the  shore  of  Cape  Elizabeth,  and,  in  the  distance, 
the  lofty  ])eaks  of  the  White  Mountains.  The  house  is  built  upon  a  generous  scale, 
Jias  wide  jiiazzas,  a  spacious  and  airv  dining-hall,  an  ample  drawing-room,  with  an 
-open  fireplace  at  each  extremitv,  and  parlors  jirovided  with  a  similar  luxury;  broad 
:Staii-wavs,  while  the  rooms  —  whicli  are  so  arranged  that  any  number  of  them  may 
ibe  combined  in  a  single  suite  —  are  light,  well  ventilated,  handsomely  furnished, 
and  supplied  with  incandescent  lights  .and  electric  bells. 

COTTAGES. — Several  desirable  Cottages  have  been  erected  in  connection 
■with  the  hotel,  where  rooms  can  be  secured  with  table  hoard  .at  the  hotel.  For 
lerms,  address  31.  S.  GIBSON,  Proprietor,  Preble  House,  Portland,  Me. 

AFTER  JUNE   15,   AT  OTTATVA  HOUSE. 


PREBLE    HOUSE,    PORTLAND,  ME. 

-Noted  for  its  fine  location.    A  favorite  stopping-place  for  summer  tourists. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


PORTLAND  STEAM  PACKET  CO. 

Line  of  First-Class  Steamers  between 


One  of  the  Elegant  it 
New  Steamers, 


Portland,"  or  "Tremont, 
PORTLAND, 


SUNDAY  NiGHT  TRIP 


Will  leave  India  Wharf, 
BOSTON,  for 

Every  evening  (Sundays  excepted)  at  7  o'clock,  connecting-,  on  arrival,  with  Maine 
Central,  Knox  and  Lincoln,  Portland  and  Ogdensburg,  Grand  Trunk,  and  Portland 
and  Rochester  llailroads,  and  with  Steamers  lor  points  on  coast  of  Maine.  Direct 
and  desirable  route  to  Lewiston,  Auburn,  Dangor,  and  all  points  east  and  north. 
This  line  affords  a  most  desirable  route  to  all  points  in  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
region. 

From  middle  of  June  to  middle  of  September, 
steamers  leaving  India  Wharf  at  7  o'clock. 
This  line  affords  a  most  desirable  route  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes,  through  by  daylight 
from  Portland.  The  Standard  Route  for  comfort  and  pleasure  to  Lewiston,  Poland 
Springs,  Mount  Desert,  Bethel,  Gorham  (N'.IL),  North  Conwaj',  Crawford's, 
Fabyan's,  etc.  Finest  ocean  trip  on  Eastern  Coast,  and  best  route  to  White  Moun- 
tains and  Inland  Seaside  resorts  of  Maine.  Excursion  Tickets  at  L,ow  Kates, 
and  Staterooms  may  be  procured  at  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Office,  2S0  Washington 
Street,  Boston,  ]\Iass.  Leave  Portland  for  Boston  evf*ry  evening,  connecting,  on 
.arrival,  with  the  earliest  trains  on  all  diverging  lines. 

J.  B.  COYLE,  J.  F.  LIS('()3IR,  C.  F.  WILLIA.1IS, 

Man.,  (Jen.  Office,  Portland,  Me.  Gene rr.l  Assent.  Agent,  Boston^ 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


BRYANT'S  POND,   RUMFORD, 

^  IT  X)  OAT"  EI?/, 

AND  THE 

ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES. 

A  Daily  Line  of  First-Class  Stages 

Make  daily  connections  with  trains  on  Grand  Trunk  Railroad, 
between  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover.  This  is  an  old-established 
line,  and  has  been  in  charge  of  the  present  proprietor  many  years. 
Fine  coaches,  good  horses,  and  experienced  drivers  make  up  this 
line,  which  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  stage  routes  in  this  country. 
The  time  between  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover  is  three  hours.  Fare 
from  Bryant's  Pond  to  Rumford,  75  cents.  Bryant's  Pond  to  An- 
dover, $1.50. 

Returning,  the  stage  leaves  Andover  each  morning,  arriving  at 
Bryant's  Pond  in  time  to  connect  with  through  trains  for  Boston. 

K^"  Before  the  stage  leaves,  passengers  can  obtain  a  good 
supper  for  50  cents  at  the  well  kept  and  popular  Glen  Moun- 
tain House,  a  few  rods  opposite  the  depot. 


BRYANT'S  POND,  RUMFORD  CENTRE,  EAST 

MEXICO,  DIXFIELD, 


Also  the  Shortest  Route  to  the  Celebrated 
GOLD   FIELDS  of  BYRON. 

Stage  leaves  Railroad  Depot  at  Bryant's  Pond  daily  on  arrival  of 
afternoon  train  from  Boston  for  the  above  places,  returning  every 
mornmg,  reaching  Bryant's  Pond  in  time  to  connect  with  through 
train  for  Boston.  Stage  connects  at  Mexico  with  stages  for  ROX- 
BURY  and  BYRON. 

Fare  from  Bryant's  Pond  to  Rumford  Centre,  $.75 ;  East  Rum- 
ford,  $1.00;  Mexico,  $1.00;  Dixfield,  $1.50;  Byron,  $1.75. 

GEORGE  TUTTLE,  Proprietor. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


ANDOVER  HOUSE, 

ANDOVER,  ME.  A.  W.  and  F.  P.  THOMAS,  Proprietors. 


Terms,  S3.00  per  day;  ST.OO  to  SilO.OO  by  the  -week. 


ONLY  twelve  miles  from  the  Richardson  Lakes,  and  the 
most  direct  route  to  the  Middle  and  Upper  Dams. 

This  popular  hotel  is  now  open  for  the  summer  travel,  and 
is  capable  of  giving  good  accommodations  to  fifty  guests.  It 
is  most;  desirably  situated  in  the  charming  village  of  Ando- 
ver,  twenty-one  miles  from  Bryant's  Pond,  a  station  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  road,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  first-class 
line  of  stages.     Only  twelve  hours  from  Boston. 

The  house  commands  a  very  fine  view  of  the  mountains, 
by  which  it  is  entirely  surrounded.  There  are  many  beauti- 
ful walks  and  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  very  pleasant  excur- 
sions may  be  made,  by  means  of  private  teams,  to  various 
places  within  a  radius  of  five  to  twenty  miles.  The  hotel  is 
located  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  and  near  post-office,  tele- 
graph-office, churches,  stores,  etc. 

The  trout  brooks  about  Andover  are  all  within  easy  walking 
or  riding  distance  of  the  hotel,  and  furnish  excellent  sport. 

Parties  visiting  the  lakes  will  be  furnished  with  teams, 
guides,  and  boats  at  reasonable  prices. 

Comfortable  covered  teams  leave  the  Andover  House 
each  day  at  8.30  a.m.,  for  the  South  Arm  of  Richardson 
Lakes,  connecting  with  one  of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Transportation  Company's  steamers,  for  all  points  in  the 
Lake  Region.  Returning,  leave  the  South  Arm  at  i.oo  p.m. 
for  Andover. 

Round  Trip  Tickets  to  various  points  in  the  Lakes  Region 
for  sale  at  the  Andover  House 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


All   Persons    who    think   of   visiting   the 
ANDROSOOOGIN       LAKES 

the  present  season,  should  purchase  Tickets  via 

GRAND   TRUNK    RAILWAY. 

Two    Through    Trains    Daily 

Three    Trains    Daily,    except  Sunday, 

from:  p»oiitl^ni>. 

Leave  Boston  by  morning  train  over  Eastern  or  Western 
Division  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  connecting  in  Port- 
land, in  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Depot,  with  the 

afterxoo:n"  mail, 

with  Pullman  Palace  Sleeper,  leaving  Portland  at  1.30  p.m., 
arriving  at  Bethel  at  4.35  p.m. 

Leave  Boston  by  12.30  p.m.  train  over  Eastern,  and  1.00  p.m. 
train  over  Western  Division  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad, 
connecting  in  Portland  in  Grand  Trunk  Depot,  with  the 

EVENLN^G  SPECIAL, 

leaving  Portland  at  5.15  p.m.,  arriving  at  Bethel  at  8.00  p.m. 
Leave  Boston  by  Portland  Steamer  at  7.00  p.m.  week  days, 
7.00  p.m.  Sundays,  connecting  next  morning  with  the 

MONTREAL  DAY  EXPRESS, 

with  Parlor  car,  leaving  Portland  at  8.45  a.m.,  arriving  at 
Bethel  at  11.40  a.m.  Leave  Bethel  at  11.50  p.m.,  by  first-class 
stages  of  the 

ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES  TRANSPORTATION  COMPANY. 

arriving  at  Lakeside  Hotel,  Umbagog  Lake,  at  6.30  P.M 

RETURNING, 

leave  Umbagog  Lake  at  7.00  a.m.,  arriving  in  Portland  at  5.45 
P.M.,  Boston  (by  rail)  9.30  P.M.,  Boston  (by  steamer)  early 
next  morning. 

Baggage  checked  through  in  each  direction,  via  rail  or 
steamer  between  Boston  and  Bethel. 

Steamers  land  in  Portland  within  5  minutes'  walk  of  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  Depot. 

JAS.  STEPHENSON,  Supt.,     WM.  EDGAR,  Gen.  Pass.  AgU 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


Round-trip  tickets  from  Portland  and  Lewiston 
to  the  Richardson  (Rangeley)  Lakes,  via  Bryant's 
Pond  and  Andover,  are  sold  by  the 

GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY  COMPANY 
at  the  following  prices  from  Portland :  — 
To  Andover  and  return       .         .         .         .     $8.00 
To  Middle  Dam  and  return         .         .         .       9.00 
To  Upper  Dam  and  return  .         .         .     10.00 

To  Indian  Rock  and  return         .         .  .     11.00 

To  Indian  Rock  via   Andover,  return    via 

Farmington        .....     12.25 
To  Berlin  Mills  House,  ]Magalloway  River, 

and  return  .....     13.00 

To  Upper   Dam   and   Dix\^ille  Notch,  and 

return        ......     16.50 

To  Upper    Dam  via  Andover,  return  via 

Bethel 11.50 

To    Upper  Dam  via  Andover,  return  via 

Dixville  Notch 13.00 

Ticket-offices  in  Portland  on  Exchange  Street, 
and  at  depot,  foot  of  India  Street. 

From  Lewiston  the  above  tickets  are  sold  at 
one  dollar  less  than  from  Portland. 

Ticket-office  in  Lewiston  at  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way depot. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


FALL  RIVER  LINE. 

The  Great  Business  and  Pleasure  Route 

BETWEEN 

NEW  YORK  AND  BOSTON, 

and  all  New  England  Points. 

Splendid  Steanners  PURITAN,   PILGRIM, 
PLYMOUTH,  and  PROVIDENCE. 

A  Band  of  Music  accompanies  each  vessel. 

Long  water  route.  —  Short  rail  ride.  — Full  night's  rest. 

Six  morning  trains  between  Fall  River  and  Boston. 


Passengers  for 

RANGELEY  LAKES,  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE, 
BAR    HARBOR, 

AND    THE 

Can  obtain  through  tickets  via  this  Line  upon  application  at  the 

principal  ticket  offices  in  New  York,  Philadelphia, 

Baltimore,    and    Washington. 


Steamers   leave  New  York  from  Pier  28.  North  River,  foot   of 
Murrav  St..  dailv,  Sundays  included. 

Trains   connecting  with    steamers    at   Fall    River  leave  Boston 
from  Old  Colony  Station  daily,  Sundays  included. 

J,  R.  KENDRICK,  CEO.  L  CONNOR, 

Gen.  Manager,  Gen.  Pass.  Agent, 

Boston.  Boston  and  New  York. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


THE  MAINE  CENTRAL  RAILROAD, 

Operating  a  system  of  664  miles,  extends  from  Portland  to  the  boundary  line 
between  Maine  and  New  Brunswick,  and  unites  the  railroads  of  the  United 
States  and  Maritime  Provinces.  It  forms,  with  its  own  lines,  branches,  and 
connections,  the  only  rail  route  to  and  from  Mt.  Desert,  and  all  parts  of  Maine 
east  of  Portland,  and  the  provinces  of  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  Cape 
Breton,  and  Prince  Edward  Island,  and  is  also  the  best  route  to  Moosehead  and 
Rangeley  Lakes,  and  all  of  the  noted  hunting  and  fishing  resorts  of  Northern 
Maine  and  New  Brunswick. 

Its  mountain  line  from  Portland  extends  from  the  sea  to  all  White  Moun- 
tain Resorts,  through  tiie  wonderland  of  the  Crawford  Notch,  reaching  many 
points  of  interest  in  both  the  White  and  Franconia  ranges,  with  through  cars, 
offering  all  the  attractions  of  a  daylight  ride  through  this  region  between  Port- 
land and  Montreal,  Quebec,  and  all  points  via  Canadian  Pacific,  for  Chicago, 
via  Niagara  Falls,  and  for  Burlington,  Lake  Champlain,  connecting  for  Sara- 
toga, and  other  noted  resorts  of  Northern  New  England. 

This  company  also  operate  the  steamers  running  on  the  Portland,  Mt. 
Desert,  and  Machias  Line,  the  inside  route  between  Boston,  Portland,  Bar 
Harbor,  and  pomts  on  the  Eastern  Maine  coast,  giving  passengers  their  choice 
of  trip  by  land  or  water. 

The  Maine  Central  is  the  only  route  whereby  Moosehead  Lake  can  surely 
be  reached  the  day  of  departure  from  Boston,  and  for  the  Rangeley  Lakes 
is  the  only  route  connecting  with  the  celebrated  two-foot  gauge  Sandy  River 
Railroad,  running  from  Farmington  to  Phillips,  only  eighteen  miles  from  the 
lakes,  and  by  which  fil"teen  miles  of  staging  and  twelve  of  steamer  are  saved 
to  passengers  for  Indian  Rock  and  Mooselucmaguntic  House  and  Lake  over 
any  other  route,  and  connecting  at  Strong  with  the  Franklin  and  IMegantic 
Railroad  for  Kingtield,  from  whence  stages  run  to  Eustis  and  Smith's 
Farm,  where  a  comparatively  unexplored  country  for  hunting  and  fishing  is  to 
be  found. 

FAKES  FOR  ROUND   TRIP   FR03I   BOSTON: 

BAR   HARBOR $14.00 

BAR  HARBOR,  continuous  passage  in  both  directions 11.50 

RANGELEY  LAKES 12.50 

INDIAN  ROCK 13.50 

EUSTIS 13.00 

MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 15.00 

For  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE   from   Boston,  continuous  passage  in  both 

directions , 13-50 

AROOSTOOK I S.oo 

Prom  PORTLAND less    3.00 

Send  for  Time  Tables  and  Kates  of  Fare  covering  all 

Excursion  Points. 
F.  E.  BOOTH  BY,  PAYSON  TUCKER, 

Cen.  Pass.  Agent,  Port/and,  Me.  Gen.  Manager. 


SPECIAL    NOTICES. 


A  New  Book  on  the   Wilderness 


FROM    LAKETO    LAKE. 

A  Trip  Across  Country. 


An  interesting  story  of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Region. 


By  Capt.  Charles  A.  J.  Farrar,  author  of  "Androscoggin 
Lakes,  Illustrated,"  "Camp  Life  in  the  Wilderness,"  "The 
Lake  and  Forest  Series,"  "Moosehead  Lake  and  the  North 
Maine  Wilderness,"  Illustrated,  etc.,  etc. 


224  pages.     30  Illustrations.     Price  $1.00. 


Can  be  obtained  at  any  Bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail, 
postpaid  on  receipt  of  price,  by  Jamaica  Publishing  Com- 
pany, Jamaica  Plain,  Mass. 

Second  Edition. 
CAMP  LIFE  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 

A  story  of  sporting  and  adventures  at  the  Rang-eley  Lakes,  by  Capt. 
Charles  A.J.  Farkar,  224  pages,  paper  cover,  12  illustrations.  Price, 
paper,  50 cents;  cloth,  $1.00. 

This  is  a  delightful  story  of  life  in  the  woods,  and  has  all  the  breezy  fresh- 
Dess  of  an  out-uoor  narr;ilive.  'Die  author  is  perfectly  familiar  with  all  the 
places  and  incidents  mentioned  in  the  book,  and  a  twelve  years'  experience 
in  the  Lake  Country  gives  an  additional  interest  to  Capt.  Farrar's  writings. 

A  few  notices  of  the  press  are  appended  below: — 

"Mr.  Farrar  has  been  a  frequent  contributor  to  the  Forest  and  Stream,  and 
our  readers  are  already  familiar  with  his  pleasant  style  of  narrating  wood- 
land adventures.  The  pages  will  recall  to  those  visiting  the  Rangeley  Lakes 
many  pleasant  days  spent  there,  and  those  who  contemplate  visiting  the 
wilds  will  find  in  Mr.  Farrar's  book  much  practical  and  useful  information." 
— Forest  and  Stream. 

"The  book  takes  the  form  of  a  narrative,  describing  the  actual  experience 
of  a  party  of  pleasure-seekers,  with  numerous  illustrations — sure  to  whet 
the  appetite  for  the  text.     The  Richardson    Lakes   region    is    fast    becoming 

Sopular  as  a  wilderness  resort — and  has   all    the   advantages   of  the   Adiron- 
acks,  with   the  added  one  of   being   much  more  accessible." — Springfield 
Daily  Union. 

Can  be  obtained  at  any  bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail,  postpaid,  on 
receiptor  price,  by  Jamaica  PuiiLisiuxG   Company,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass. 


_, 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


NEW  ILLUSTRATED  SERIES. 

THE   "LAKE  AND  FOREST  SERIES." 

By  Capt.  Charles  A.  J.  Farrar,  author  of  "Camp  Life  in 
the  "Wilderness,"  "From  Lake  to  Lake.  A  Trip  Across 
Country,"  "Moosehead  Lake  and  the  North  Maine  Wilder- 
ness, Illustrated,"  "The  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Illustrated," 

ITie  first  volume  of  this  fascinating  series  of  Forest  and 
Lake  Adventures,  entitled 

"EASTWARD  HO!    or,  ADVENTURES    AT  RANGELY 

LAIvES," 

is  now  in  its  third  edition.  Published  by  Lee  &  Shepard, 
Boston;  Chas.  T.  Dillingham,  New  York,  and  can  be  pro- 
cured from  any  bookseller  in  the  United  States  or  Canada,  or 
will  be  sent  by  mail  post  paid,  by  addressing  Jamaica  Pub- 
lishing Company,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.    Price,  $1.25. 

The  second  volume,  entitled 

"WILD  WOODS  LIFE ;  or,  A  TRLP  TO  PARMACHENEE," 

uniform  in  size  and  style  with  "Eastward  Ho!"  is  in  its 
second  edition.    Price,  $1.25. 

The  third  volume,  entitled 

"DOWN  THE  WEST  BRANCH ;  or,  CAMPS  AND  TRAMPS 

AROUND  KATAHDIN," 

uniform  in  size  and  style  with  the  others,  is  selling  equally 
well.    Price,  $1.25. 

The  fourth  volume,  entitled 
"UP  THE  NORTH  BRANCH,  A  SUIVOIER'S  OUTEN^G," 

uniform  in  size  and  style  with  the  other  volumes,  is  now  ready, 
and  may  be  obtained  from  any  bookseller.    Price,  $1.25. 

These  books  are  written  in  a  style  that  take  with  wide- 
awake readers,  whether  old  or  young,  and  the  correct  thing 
for  you  to  do  is  to  buy  the  set  at  once. 


J 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


k 


LI1UL 


U 


Shortest  Line  between  Boston  and  New  York, 

Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  Washington. 


'H' AST  express  trains  with  parlor  and  sleeping  cars  are 
-*■  run  between  the  above  points,  and  persons  desiring 
to  visit  Rangeley  and  Moosehead  Lakes,  or  any  part  of 
Maine,  will  find  it  for  their  comfort  and  convenience  to 
use  the  New  York  and  New  England  Railroad.   , 

Any  information  in  regard  to  schedules,  rates,  routes, 
etc.,  by  the  New  York  and  New  England  Railroad  can  be 
obtained  upon  application  at  any  ticket  office. 

CHARLES  HOWARD,  A.  C.  KENDALL, 

Gen.  Manager,  Gen.  Pass.  Agent, 

i8o  Summer  Street,  Boston. 


'-'      I 


